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Post by Parker2100 on Jul 24, 2012 20:36:28 GMT -5
Apparently while I was fixing my horn today, the ground wire came out of the socket of one of my headlights (IB Viking has two) and it got really hot and fried the socket. I pulled the socket and confirmed that it was fried. Now the other light does not work and I detect no voltage on the multimeter. Figure that I either blew a fuse or burned the wiring. Could be that both lights need to be working to complete the circuit (maybe wishful thinking)
Question is this: What headlamp socket does the PST150-8 (IB Viking) use?
Found a Honda Pigtail Spring Socket that looks just like it online. Would that be it? This socket is 6V. What is the Viking? (obviously, the socket couldn't handle the 12V from the battery so 6v?)
Parker
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Post by OverReved on Jul 24, 2012 20:42:23 GMT -5
The socket can handle 12 volts fine, what it can't handle is the extra amperage from being shorted to ground. Normally the light bulb limits the current for that circuit.
Check your fuses and replace the socket. No idea what you can get a socket off of though.
The wire that came out was most probably a hot wire not a ground one. Grounds don't care if you touch them to ground.
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Post by Parker2100 on Jul 24, 2012 21:03:58 GMT -5
Yeah, I thought the solid green wire was the Hot but I couldn't figure out how a disconnected Hot would cause the socket to heat up. The circuit should have been broken at that point. There are 3 wires (Green, White, & Blue) and I am not familiar with Chinese color coding.
Thanks for the tip. So, will the auto parts store carry a 12v Pigtail Spring Socket? The only ones I can find online are 6v.
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Post by terry5732 on Jul 24, 2012 21:45:03 GMT -5
I haven't found any outo parts stores that carry things similar to the modern Chinese junk in scooters.
I would go with adapting the reflector to use a US bulb base and then you can use US bulbs too.
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Post by Parker2100 on Jul 24, 2012 21:50:34 GMT -5
The plastic spring loaded platform piece inside just crumbled when I took it out. The two wires going to the lamp are Blue & White. A Green wire connects to the Socket body. Blue and White must be + & - right? (or else the light wouldn't work). Then what the (censored) is Green? On the horn, + was green and - was a lighter green. WTF? Attachments:
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Post by Parker2100 on Jul 24, 2012 22:03:19 GMT -5
Thought of that Terry but I have to know what the color code is before I can do that.
To run an pre-fab Adapter would mean that I have to find an adapter with the correct socket at one end. If I have the right socket, I wouldn't need the adapter.
Let me know if I am missing something.
Parker
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Post by OverReved on Jul 24, 2012 22:36:07 GMT -5
The plastic spring loaded platform piece inside just crumbled when I took it out. The two wires going to the lamp are Blue & White. A Green wire connects to the Socket body. Blue and White must be + & - right? (or else the light wouldn't work). Then what the (censored) is Green? On the horn, + was green and - was a lighter green. WTF? Lighter green tends to be the ground. If that bulb is two filaments ( based on the picture and you having two lead lugs for two contact patches I'd say it is) Then you have a ground ( light green) a low beam, and a highbeam wire. Three wires. The horn would have two wires a light green for ground and your other green wire comes from the switch or solenoid. You probably have a switch, solenoid would be in use if you had an alarm system. |
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Post by Parker2100 on Jul 24, 2012 23:15:52 GMT -5
Wile! The first one is it! Thanks man! The second one is it too but the colors are different and that is freaking me out! Trying to find a supplier who sells less than 5000 at a time.
Good points OverReved.
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Post by OverReved on Jul 24, 2012 23:18:46 GMT -5
So put a meter on the thing and know for sure?
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Post by Parker2100 on Jul 24, 2012 23:54:07 GMT -5
I will OverReved but I will have to get a fuse first. I don't want to take it all apart until I can actually fix it. I know, its not difficult but I have taken that thing apart a dozens time since I put the Trike together.
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Post by Parker2100 on Jul 25, 2012 18:23:37 GMT -5
AH HA! Found it! Of all places, they had the Spring + Filiment in the Brick & Mortar. It just slips into the the existing socket base cup. That is VERY important. If you have an IB Viking SAVE the socket base! It does not come with the inside parts. OverReved, you were right about the Blue/White wires both being power for the High/Low beams. The Green is a ground. Now, I just have to hope the only remaining problem is the fuse. "Let there be light!" Parker Attachments:
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Post by Parker2100 on Jul 27, 2012 14:52:00 GMT -5
Just replaced the headlight socket and still no headlights. Checked the fuse (s) and they appear to be working. My Viking Trike appears to have only one fuse for everything so if that were blown, everything would not work. Everything but the High/Low beams works. Even the smaller running lights underneath the main bulb works.
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Post by gatekeeper on Jul 27, 2012 15:15:35 GMT -5
Check for power into and out of your dimmer switch.
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Post by Parker2100 on Jul 27, 2012 17:06:20 GMT -5
Wile, I have a switch. On half position, it turns on the Parking lights (which work fine). On full position it is supposed to turn on the Headlights. That is what it fails to do. I examined the connector and did not see anything visibly fried. I will do a more thorough examination though.
When it first happened I was trying to figure out why one headlight was out. Tried readjusting the plastic weather protectors by hand. At first, it was going on and off. Then I noticed the wire was hot so I cut the power and opened the socket. The plastic filiment holder just crumbed when I examined the socket. Did notice at that time that the other light wasn't working either. So replaced the socket and examined the fuse. Still no-go.
I will try that GK.
Parker
BTW: Noticed that the fuse is 250v & 20A. How the heck is a 12v 8Ah power source going to ever blow that fuse?
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Post by gatekeeper on Jul 27, 2012 18:40:12 GMT -5
Pretty much all automotive type fuses are rated at 250 volts. While your battery may be rated at 8 amp hours, meaning it is rated in new condition to provide one amp of current for an eight hour period before going dead, it is capable of delivering many more amps for a short time. Also the stator can throw more than 20 amps. There is a difference between an amp hour rating and amps active in a circuit.
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Post by Parker2100 on Jul 27, 2012 20:07:15 GMT -5
Or 8 Amps for 1 hour, so I thought. Anyway, the idea you had about testing the dimmer (or "Passing") switch was really good. I will try that tomorrow. That will give me a clue where the problem is.
Parker
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Post by gatekeeper on Jul 28, 2012 11:48:25 GMT -5
You are also correct, 8 amps x 1 hour = 8 amp hours
4 amps x 2 hours = 8 amp hours
2 amps x 4 hours = 8 amp hours
1 amp x 8 hours = 8 amp hours
Anyway, good luck with the switch.
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Post by Parker2100 on Jul 29, 2012 13:13:20 GMT -5
OK, opened the Passing switch and noticed 4 wires (make sense - H beam/L beam) but as usual, the color code was driving me nuts. This time we have Black, White, Blue, Green (think those were the colors). Even though I didn't know which was for what circuit, I tested every combination of 2. And I did not get current for any of them.
Just for kicks & giggles, I tested my blinker and horn circuits (on the same hand grip) and got 12v for each. As a certified Electronics Technician, it really hurts my pride but I may have to take this to a shop. Unless one of you brilliant people gives me another idea (please do). If I could follow this color code I could do more testing.
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Post by gatekeeper on Jul 29, 2012 13:45:01 GMT -5
On your passing switch, the black wire should be your 12 volt feed. Test between it and the green wire and it should read 12 volts. If you have a headlight on/off switch make sure it is on and is sending out power. Key switch on also. The white and blue wire is your power out to the headlight.
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Post by OverReved on Jul 29, 2012 15:00:33 GMT -5
Even though I didn't know which was for what circuit, I tested every combination of 2. And I did not get current for any of them. Did you perform these tests with the engine running? I had hoped you would put a meter on it 5 days ago, but better late than never. |
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Post by Parker2100 on Jul 29, 2012 15:22:28 GMT -5
Thanks GK
Yes, OR, I did it with the engine running and I did put a meter on it when it first happened at the socket and knew I wasn't getting power. I just wanted to change the socket before I got all worked up about it. I checked the fuse after I installed the socket.
Got it Wile...Thanks
Parker
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Post by Parker2100 on Jul 29, 2012 21:14:17 GMT -5
Its been posted quite a few times but I just had a good look at the wiring schematic for a GY6 150cc. I think I got this! Back to the drawing board tomorrow. Parker Attachments:
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Post by Parker2100 on Aug 25, 2012 20:59:23 GMT -5
Update: Gave up for now. I ordered and installed a single headlamp and bypassed the normal wiring. The new Headlamp (H & L beam) works well and is looks good (black & matches the Trike) so I have become lazy and stopped working on the factory lights (they still work for running lamps). The Dealer sent me a new assembly (not completly the same) but, like I said, I have become content with the custom setup.
I will get back to it eventually.
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Post by Parker2100 on Aug 26, 2012 22:15:55 GMT -5
This is what the Trike looks like w/ the single light. Please no jokes like "You know your a Redneck if your new TV is sitting on your old broken TV." - The factory lights are working running/parking lights. Attachments:
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