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Post by franklin54 on Jul 11, 2012 22:03:44 GMT -5
I have a Linhai Vog 260 Scooter with a unique problem Purchased a new battery for it last fall and it is charging fine Most of the time now when I clcik on the starting button, no sound comes out and it doesnt start if I have a charger hooked up, it starts right away the battery has been tested as high charged so the charging system seems to work What can be causing it not to start? Stator? Starter? Wiring? Took this to a shpo and they tested the battery but admitted afterwards they had no idea because they didnt have the specs for the bike anyone ever heard of this problem before it used to happen when i havent started the bike for 4 days, hen I was riding it every day it seemed to start ok, now it is happening more even after riding it that day Attachments:
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Post by richardthescooter1 on Jul 11, 2012 22:23:54 GMT -5
It could be the Regulator/Rectifier, this is what charges your battery, nothing else. (did you test your battery to see if its good?)
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Post by franklin54 on Jul 11, 2012 23:19:17 GMT -5
Yes the battery has been tested and is at full charge
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Post by wile on Jul 11, 2012 23:32:14 GMT -5
I think something is probably draining your battery while it sits there for a while. Do you have an alarm and or remote on that scoot. They are notorious for draining batteries. It could also just be a bad battery, doesn't matter if you test it and see 12.5 or higher on the voltage BUT it may not take a load unless it is fully charged. One other thing to look for is a BAD Ground so also check your ground from the Battery to frame. Another possibility is it could be your Relay that is acting up, next time it does that Jump the Relay Terminals and see if it spins your starter. Wile
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Post by franklin54 on Jul 12, 2012 7:45:33 GMT -5
Where is the relay your speaking of and what is it called?
Thanks for the ground tip, I will check that also
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Post by max on Jul 12, 2012 9:32:08 GMT -5
I've been having the same problem for a long time. It would be interesting to read more of how to handle this. Max
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Post by richardthescooter1 on Jul 12, 2012 13:01:04 GMT -5
The relay should be on the right side, just above where you add oil to your scoot.
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Post by richardthescooter1 on Jul 12, 2012 13:22:50 GMT -5
This is a solenoid/relay Attachments:
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Post by franklin54 on Jul 12, 2012 14:29:00 GMT -5
So, to bypass this relay is to run a wire from one lead to the other? (Posts/bolts)
I will try this
thats the solenoid, correct?
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Post by wile on Jul 12, 2012 14:39:47 GMT -5
Yes Frank, that is the Solenoid/Relay, you can use anything really a screwdriver, pliers etc.. It will spark when you touch both so don't get a heart attack on us. Wile
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Post by franklin54 on Jul 12, 2012 15:11:04 GMT -5
I havent had to add oil to the scooter yet, is that up by where you add coolant into the overflow tank?
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Post by richardthescooter1 on Jul 12, 2012 16:31:09 GMT -5
Its on the side near your muffler.
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Post by trailheadmike on Jul 12, 2012 17:21:54 GMT -5
Here is a picture of the right side of a naked Vog. I'm actually not sure where the relay is, but I thought this might help the discussion.
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Post by richardthescooter1 on Jul 12, 2012 21:31:31 GMT -5
If you follow the battery connections or your starter connections, it should lead you to the solenoid/relay.
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Post by franklin54 on Jul 12, 2012 23:44:09 GMT -5
thanks a lot, I will look for it this weekend
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Post by franklin54 on Jul 12, 2012 23:44:50 GMT -5
I would love to see some more pics of the Naked Vog if you have them, from the side and up close on the side also, the pic is awesome, thanks
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Post by trailheadmike on Jul 13, 2012 10:38:13 GMT -5
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Post by rp on Jul 13, 2012 21:24:14 GMT -5
1. Has the fuse on the battery been changed per the PDI Guidlines? 2. Disconnect the battery and check out the connector the wires from the ignition switch feed into. Both sides. Pull the connector apart and stick a small screwdriver into the little slot and pull the wire out from the back. The wires should be copperish not blackish or greenish. Start with the red wire from the battery. Mine was discolored on both sides and I ended up cutting off about 1-2inchs from both sides and soldering the main wire direct. and bypassing the connector altogether. 3. Check the main ground connection thats on the frame just above or behind all the wireing. 4. Should have asked this first. How long have you had your scooter and has a complete PDI ever been done on it? I don't think the issue you are having is all that unique. The wireing harness's on these scooters do not come with the QC care that we come to expect in our automobiles. At least the body parts are already off and the connectors are easy to get to.
Good Luck. The more you do the easier it becomes.
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Post by franklin54 on Jul 19, 2012 22:44:44 GMT -5
I have found out somewthing else that might be pointing or hinting to what it is
today I went to start it, and after holding the left brake in and hitting the start button and getting no response, I held the right brake in and hit the switch and it started up
What relay or whatever is engaged when holding the brake levr in to enable the switch to power on the bike? Could that be bad?
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Post by franklin54 on Jul 19, 2012 22:47:34 GMT -5
My bike , the body parts are njo toff, the pics above are from someone elses bike that i dont know.
What is a PDI, not sure what that it is... I have had the bike 2 years and an older couple had the bike before me (Supposedly) who never even licensed the bike, all they did was hook the bike to the back of an rv and drive it around in the parks once they parked the RV
when I bought the bike, it only had 400 miles on it and several pieces were broke, th ewwiring harness on the right side doesnt work except for the start switch. the engine turnoff switch does nothing when turned on during the riding of the bike and the right turn thingie on the right does nothing so not sure what that even is
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Post by wile on Jul 19, 2012 23:09:15 GMT -5
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Post by franklin54 on Jul 20, 2012 17:42:34 GMT -5
Thanks a lot Wile, I went to that site and ordered the switch, How hard is it to swap ou thtat thing on the Linhai, would you know?
I am also wondering why no mechanics thought of this, I have no mechanic experioence at all on bikes and just got this idea because I don think the bike is supposed to be able to start by holdiung the right lever are they? I am guessing there is a switch there also?
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Post by richardthescooter1 on Jul 20, 2012 19:31:03 GMT -5
They are on both sides, you can start from either side.
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Post by trailheadmike on Jul 20, 2012 20:23:21 GMT -5
I'm on my third right hand switch and second left hand switch. Very easy to take off - take off the two wires that are attached, and its one screw and its out.
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Post by wile on Jul 20, 2012 20:29:42 GMT -5
Good luck, hope that is all that is wrong, Trail and Rich are correct both brake levers when squeezed allow the juice to flow to the brakes and solenoid. Post your results Frank so others will benefit as well. Wile
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Post by rp on Jul 22, 2012 17:35:28 GMT -5
Hey Fraqnklin. The term PDI refers to "Pre Delivery Inspection" and involves doing a maintence check on the scooter before a rider takes his bike out for the first time. It involves checking all the "nuts and bolts" hoses and wireing and connections. It could also be called a "Preventive Maintence Insp" You can find it from the Home Page. Click Rules, New Member Inf etc., then GuideDawg- The Scootdawg Guide. Go down to Just Bought a Scoot. Its a good overview on what we can do to enjoy our scoots and head-off some issues others have had before we have to repeat them
Good Luck and Enjoy your riding.
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Post by franklin54 on Jul 26, 2012 22:38:24 GMT -5
Thanks RP, I will check that out
So these switches, if I understand it correctly, are on the handles next to the levers? How are they removed?
OK, Dumb question, do you normally hold the left lever only to start the bike or is it normal to old both levers to start the bike?
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Post by OverReved on Jul 27, 2012 3:43:23 GMT -5
Yes, these switches are located at each brake leaver and moving the leaver actuates the switch. The style Wyle showed in his post are removed by taking a screw out of the underside of the switch and removing two wires that connect to metal prongs at the switch or on the harness. There is another style that you remove by removing the brake leaver and pushing the entire switch out towards the end of the handlebar grips. That style looks like this- There's even a few more styles but they are usually found on motorcycles and ATVs so I'll not bother showing them. As for what leaver to hold, you can hold the left one the right one or both, it's up to you. Most people use the left one. Some use the right one but that places their hand on the throttle and can result in accidentally twisting the throttle and causing a hard start and other problems if you aren't aware of what you are doing. From a completely technical perspective... using both switches at the same time will distribute the load that the starter solenoid places on the switches and make them last longer electrically.
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Post by EPAhater on Jul 27, 2012 6:33:21 GMT -5
From a completely technical perspective... using both switches at the same time will distribute the load that the starter solenoid places on the switches and make them last longer electrically. So where did you come up with that bright idea? The amp load of the brake light bulbs and stater relay is not enough to create any such problem. The problem with these switches is poor contacts and if left out in the weather (rain) and put through the car wash they corrode and lose contact. The springs also break a lot. Some preventive manitenance such as electronis contact cleaner helps their longevity but your statement has no basis or truth. After the switch is engaged the current flows down one single wire (usually yellow/green) and heads to the starter relay and brake light/s. This theory of yours has no validity or merit and if you knew anything about electrical you would know so. And by your own admission you don't know anything about electrical. a Stator which is what lead me to look at this forum in the first place, a part which I didn't get a lot of feedback on as far as it's specific operation or specifications to look at for diagnosis But I figured out by piecing three forum posts together with help of the Search function.. something people need to realize existsYour problem here was thinking you do know something and you didn't look in the right place, easy to find specs on the stator and maybe you need to practice your google skills a little and quit telling others how much you really don't know. See how easy it is? www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfault.htmThis diagnostic works to the letter for the linhai it is on this forum and others and if you need me to I'll give you the dianostics from this forum on the GY-6? Oh heck I'll just give them to you anyway since you do need to practice on google. scootdawg.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=talk&action=display&thread=4483Just use the scroll function and go to Stator Ohm readings. From now on when you're lost you can use this helpful easy to find guide that will steer you in the right direction. Also if you need any help finding stuff at those other forums let me know I'll give you the up and up on them too! ;D
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Post by prodigit on Jul 27, 2012 23:50:12 GMT -5
I didn't read the whole thread, but i remember an issue that sounds the same as one I had on my PT cruiser. It barely got the engine started, until I started it for 5 seconds, I heard a POF, and nothing anymore but click sounds.
I changed the battery, which helped for 2 months, until the same thing happened. Went to the garage, the guy told me my battery probably still was ok; but the starter was bad. Probably a burnt coil. He replaced it. $40+$50 on working hours. Now it starts like before I even start the car!
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