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Post by 2btiger on Sept 27, 2008 11:54:23 GMT -5
If your still looking for an oil catch can I found this listing. Not sure if its right for us but I saw pac1982 was looking. |
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Post by pac1982 on Sept 30, 2008 16:20:47 GMT -5
Nice one cheers matey
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augr
Junior Dawg
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Post by augr on Oct 3, 2008 12:44:22 GMT -5
I'm speechless! WOW! Awesome job man.....
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Post by diamoroller on Oct 25, 2008 19:30:02 GMT -5
That GY6 you're roll'in, Sin - has been tweaked to it's peak. Nice work!
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Post by YellowScooter on Nov 13, 2008 13:54:08 GMT -5
Had to pay another visit to this post. man I never get tired of reading about this. I have a plan in the works for a new ride. smaller framed than yours sin, which if I'm lucky might be a little edge on takeoff and accelereation. I'm going with a 180cc bore kit & casings, with a cvk 30mm carb. a Bando ignition with a sliding advance key, Dr Pulley variater/clutch, with 10g 11g or 12g sliders, and a Gates belt.  Does anyone know if there is a way to tune in everything via laptop? like using a clip-on O2 sensor to the back of the exhaust and get the actual fuel/air numbers instead of doing it all by ear, trial, & Error? Sure would speed things up far as tuning goes. After the teardown, I'm gonna take the frame and have it all tig-welded as one solid piece. It'll be sorta like a semi-hardtail. I'd still have the coilovers in back, but the flexing in the center will be eliminated, adding some significant rigidity. Oh yeah, Better plan on fresh set of spin-balanced rubber too! I think a pair of Pirellis oughtta do the trick. I've finally got a little digi-cam so I'll be able to do photos n stuffs too! Soon as I figure out how to upload them from the cam to the site that is...  |
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Post by harrie12348 on Nov 28, 2008 9:06:59 GMT -5
Great thread, Thanks for posting. Have a Bone.
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Post by kps01 on Jan 16, 2009 9:32:25 GMT -5
Does anyone know if there is a way to tune in everything via laptop? like using a clip-on O2 sensor to the back of the exhaust and get the actual fuel/air numbers instead of doing it all by ear, trial, & Error? Sure would speed things up far as tuning goes. You could get a wideband A/F unit and sensor, but you're looking at a lot of cost there. What I do is take it down to the dyno at my local MC shop. Only costs between $20-$35 depending on what I'm doing... |
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Post by kspower_Nick on Jan 20, 2009 21:22:36 GMT -5
FYI
please check out kspoweronline, as the stroker spacers ARE NOW IN STOCK for the MRP cranks. Shipping out as the orders come in.
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Post by stradarx150te on Jan 30, 2009 19:29:15 GMT -5
So for 500.00 dollars you would only gain 5-6 mph sounds like a waist of time and money You should be up in the 80mph mark then that would be worth the money!!! I would like to do this kit but if it only added 5-6 mph i would have to pass!
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Post by 2btiger on Jan 30, 2009 21:17:54 GMT -5
So for 500.00 dollars you would only gain 5-6 mph sounds like a waist of time and money You should be up in the 80mph mark then that would be worth the money!!! I would like to do this kit but if it only added 5-6 mph i would have to pass! hey stradarx150te, کÃŋ said he did 117kph/72mph and he felt as there was still more head room. He only changed his bore 61mm (maybe less; 59mm) no change to the stroke. That's pretty impressive for a DIY project. P.S. Speed costs ;D Tiger. |
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Post by jake318 on Feb 11, 2009 6:40:31 GMT -5
Tiger I know when the 4 valve heads first came out they where selling 58.5 and 59mm kits as 170cc ( I guess they figured people wouldnt do the math .) but SYNs piston is stamped 61 . For his sake I hope thats correct . Just a point for those looking at buying 4 valve heads . Make sure they are as advertised . Jake
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Post by stradarx150te on Feb 11, 2009 17:03:59 GMT -5
Yeah that is true i've seen a lot of them say 58.5
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Post by jackthefuzz on Mar 6, 2009 10:48:41 GMT -5
So for 500.00 dollars you would only gain 5-6 mph sounds like a waist of time and money You should be up in the 80mph mark then that would be worth the money!!! I would like to do this kit but if it only added 5-6 mph i would have to pass! I can tell you that building one of these for top speed is doable but you lose out in reliability, longevity and low end power. I've had a kitted 59mm gy6 in a large frame scoot going over 80mph at 12000 rpm + and it lasted exactly 5 miles before it started to heat sieze. with the 180cc kit its not all about the speed, its about how fast you can get to speed. I can roast my back tire without trying much and it launches from red lights. thats the fun and being able to lay on the throttle at 50mph and have it push u back on the seat. this is all on a big heavy long wheel base scoot |
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Post by stradarx150te on Mar 6, 2009 19:10:44 GMT -5
Yeah i have a 180cc big bore kit on now and yes the power is nice. But who in the world would max the rpms out to 12000 rpms i dont go past 7000
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Post by kliff on Mar 7, 2009 12:11:15 GMT -5
So for 500.00 dollars you would only gain 5-6 mph sounds like a waist of time and money You should be up in the 80mph mark then that would be worth the money!!! I would like to do this kit but if it only added 5-6 mph i would have to pass! I can tell you that building one of these for top speed is doable but you lose out in reliability, longevity and low end power. I've had a kitted 59mm gy6 in a large frame scoot going over 80mph at 12000 rpm + and it lasted exactly 5 miles before it started to heat sieze. with the 180cc kit its not all about the speed, its about how fast you can get to speed. I can roast my back tire without trying much and it launches from red lights. thats the fun and being able to lay on the throttle at 50mph and have it push u back on the seat. this is all on a big heavy long wheel base scoot Personally, I wouldn't turn one past 9000rpm, even if it was capable. Change your gears for top speed, and keep rpms down to normal levels, 6500-7500, and it should last much longer. |
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Post by jackthefuzz on Mar 7, 2009 13:38:04 GMT -5
Yeah i have a 180cc big bore kit on now and yes the power is nice. But who in the world would max the rpms out to 12000 rpms i dont go past 7000 I currently have the pfs 180 kit using a 2mm stroker crank and am turning 7500 at 55 mph with stock gearing 115mm variator, 14g dr pulley weights, roller rear sheave relief and will top out depending on weather just north of 70 mph at 9000 to 9200 rpm. the power really comes on starting at 7k and lasting all the way through 8750 where it starts to fall flat. when I was turning 12K I was just screwing around trying to find the max that I could get one of these to turn and that was done with a 2mm stroker on a 59mm bucket with big valve,big port head, a-12 cam and 30mm flat side carb with a NCY exhaust+ the usual ignition mods. peak power was coming in north of 9000 rpm, but was gutless up to 7k. and wouldnt idle under 3000 rpm. It sounded wicked but definately not streetable. after 2 tops speed runs there was already aluminum transfer on the plug and in the exhaust. so I think its safe to say thats about the max for one of these engines |
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Post by stradarx150te on Mar 7, 2009 14:27:41 GMT -5
Yeah mine doesn't idle under 3000rpms as well
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Post by 2btiger on Mar 7, 2009 18:48:36 GMT -5
What plugs were you guys using? And what transmission gears ? I'm still building my 175cc and opted for 16/38 gears and a cold plug.
jackthefuzz I would really like to hear/see more info on your 180cc.
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Post by jake318 on Mar 8, 2009 22:10:36 GMT -5
Jack im dieing to hear also . Ive never heard of a GY6 turing that many rpms period !!! Im not doubting you . Actually with the 2mm stroker its 187cc which most call 190 or 200 . And if its the MRP 60mm crank they(MRP) screwed up the stroke is actually 63.8 so your at 199cc ...jake
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Post by jake318 on Mar 8, 2009 22:15:51 GMT -5
Jack whay Model scooter ? they say that scoots comming with 2000 contras need at least 17g weights for the contra to be compressed fully , maybe your stuck in low range even with the 14g? . Ive never ran a 2000 contra but this never made sence to me being a 1500 contra can be compressed with 13g weights . Jake
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Post by jackthefuzz on Mar 9, 2009 8:33:46 GMT -5
I am talking 2 different setups, my early setup which was a 59mm kit, 2mm stroker , forged piston, big valve, big port head, a12cam, keihin pwk carb,ncy box, turbo fan, 12g weights, kevlar belt and drafting traffic. I got that set up to over 80mph at just over 12k rpm on a calibrated trailtech vapor computer. The engine was toast after that run. there was aluminum transfer on both the plug and exhaust port. upon tearing it down there was substantial scoring on the piston skirt and cylinder walls and the cylinder sleeve was cracked. I got all the parts from autotech on ebay. if he doesnt have it or you want something from NCY, email him and he will get it from the NCY warehouse in taiwan for you.
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Post by Troll on Mar 27, 2009 15:42:47 GMT -5
man that is sharp looking ride, did that four valve head make a difference?
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smokey
Big Dawg
So the other lever isnt the clutch????
Posts: 23
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Post by smokey on Apr 27, 2009 2:56:32 GMT -5
Forken fantastic thread!!! Thanks for the excelent pix and details  +1 on the big bore goodness!! I am in envy  Im still shopping for a 150cc retro style scoot and already have my heart set on a 170 stroker after test driving a 150 last week |
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Post by pdaddy on May 18, 2009 16:22:00 GMT -5
LOL, Hi guys.. Damn nice post m8.. Im really intrested in a 170cc kit with 4v head from Autotech355 for 599 USD.. Bet yet again my scoot is a 50cc style size with the short swing and 10 inch rims, she does about 90-05 kph at the moment with the 59 mm kit and head + 30mm carb, race pipe and more toys.. She's dangerous i say, drum brakes are sure not made for those speeds on that tiny scoot .. But heey, it would be fun to try out *mohahha* PD ( Back from the dead) |
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Post by moot on May 18, 2009 17:37:56 GMT -5
really good guide, I'll follow it when I get to installing my BB kit (arrived this morning!).
I was wondering, would synthetic oil be OK to use for breaking it in or should I use something different?
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Post by moot on May 29, 2009 9:31:48 GMT -5
have I put this in upside down or is it the right way? This is how mine looks when looking directly at it...  Please answer Thanks |
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Post by numbski on May 29, 2009 10:15:58 GMT -5
I believe the "IN" refers to the "Intake" - both valve and manifold, which are at the top. So yeah.  |
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Post by moot on May 29, 2009 10:44:17 GMT -5
I believe the "IN" refers to the "Intake" - both valve and manifold, which are at the top. So yeah. that's what I thought ;D will anything devastating happen if it's wrong? |
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Post by xs650 on May 29, 2009 11:27:03 GMT -5
really good guide, I'll follow it when I get to installing my BB kit (arrived this morning!). I was wondering, would synthetic oil be OK to use for breaking it in or should I use something different? Syn works for break-in on some high end cars, but their machining and materials quality are a bit better than Chicom scoot quality. There is more machine in place by rubbing parts together going on in low price machinery. Use a good grade of conventional oil, it helps break-in and you should be changing it at short intervals during break-in anyway. There is no real filter so oil changes are the only way you get the break-in swarf out of the engine. If it were my engine, I would change it at something like 50 miles, then 200 miles, then 600 miles before I went on a normal 1000km (~600 mile) change interval. |
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Post by dschwartz17 on Jun 1, 2009 14:59:24 GMT -5
Very nice post! Scoot looks awesome!!! I was wondering are you the one that changed your instrument panel if so where did you get it?
Also can you tell me where the bulb is for the instrument panel? I had a voltage regulator go out and all electrical had to be replaced! If you can help me that would be so awesome!!!!
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Roketa MC-60 
Tiger Cub
