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Post by کíŋ on Dec 29, 2007 7:50:49 GMT -5
Why is the cylinder longer for the bigger bore or was that for the 4 valve head? I just checked the old head and can definately see that it's the new 4 Valve Head that added the extra height. Most likely when I picked up all the parts, the longer bolts and Cam Chain came with the Head Kit rather that with the Big Bore Kit. Thanks, I'll update my post  |
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Post by Andy on Dec 29, 2007 9:42:30 GMT -5
Why was that ignition coil so pricey?
And, with all this new found power, are you going to mod out the CVT rollers and clutch springs? Then possibley change your gears in the back to get a better top end speed?
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Post by کíŋ on Dec 29, 2007 10:10:53 GMT -5
Probably in the reverse order. 1st change the final drive to a smaller gear for more top end. Then play around with the weights and clutch springs. I've already changed from 6x 13g rollers down to 6x10g but wouldn't mind trying a Variator with an extended ramp. Re: that pricey Inferno Ignition Coil, probably had more to do with the cost my mate with the dirt bike shop paid to import it rather than what it was worth - Although PBU do boast that it "can" add up to another 2hp over stock |
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Post by loudest143 on Dec 29, 2007 12:55:25 GMT -5
Stellar post! You should be proud, not only of your work, but also of your awesome tutorial! I would love to know about the oil catch assembly... Who manufactures it? Link?
Thanks again,
Loudest143
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Post by Aaron on Dec 29, 2007 14:44:04 GMT -5
I made this a sticky it is indeed a great post. Thanks for making it.
Aaron
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Post by کíŋ on Dec 29, 2007 19:32:24 GMT -5
I would love to know about the oil catch assembly... Who manufactures it? Link? The Oil Catch Can has a Thailand website address on the box: www.krd.co.th but no site comes up at that address. The company in Thailand that exports it (along with a lot of other "Bling") is Akunar, here's a link to their Breathers page: www.akunar.com/BREATHERS_ak.htmMine is 1/2 way down the page and is called the MOTO-R Large Breather Catch Tank, Model: BRE-132018 |
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Post by کíŋ on Dec 29, 2007 19:34:37 GMT -5
Thanks Aaron, that's Awesome ;D - Cheers Ed. |
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Post by natefromogden on Dec 30, 2007 23:50:54 GMT -5
Excellent work with the camera and writing. Very well done and an honest appraisal of the effort and cash required for this upgrade. Keep up the good work.
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Post by fastasssr20 on Jan 1, 2008 22:45:09 GMT -5
u r my new idol thats awesome nice write up. plus one karma point for you
Randy
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Post by کíŋ on Jan 2, 2008 8:07:57 GMT -5
Haha, that would make me an Australian Idol ;D
(you wouldn't want to hear me sing though, trust me)
...and Thanks for your kind words and the Karma, much appreciated!
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Post by anthonyvs on Jan 2, 2008 15:22:27 GMT -5
hi. I was wondering where you bought the big bore kit from? most of the ones sold seem to require machining. And you mentioned not needing any. Thanks
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Post by کíŋ on Jan 2, 2008 18:50:04 GMT -5
My Mate Rick imports them and yep, 61mm is the limit before you need to start machining. p.s his prices are shown in AUD so shave another 10% off roughly for USD |
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Post by Andi on Jan 3, 2008 18:32:15 GMT -5
Excellent post, really enjoyed your detailed write up with pictures. Nice job on the scoot sure looks like you know what your doing and the amazing thing is you were able to do it all upside down ..... just kidding of course.
I actually have the same scoot more or less, same body except the front cowl, which has vent openings for the radiator of the water cooled 257cc Linhai engine. I liked the fact that it is a 150 frame with a little more humpf of the 250 engine.
Greetings form the Caribbean.
Andi
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Post by medman1952 on Jan 5, 2008 21:08:15 GMT -5
I'm impressed, I thought it belongs in the Best of section so this thread now has a link in the Best of Scootdawg.
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Post by sicily150 on Jan 6, 2008 2:02:55 GMT -5
One awesome scooter, great project, great learning experience. Even with the increase in acceleration as well as the additional 8 mph in top end, do you think it was worth the time and expense. Just wondering because I'm considering doing some performance mods to mine.
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Post by کíŋ on Jan 7, 2008 18:34:57 GMT -5
I thought it belongs in the Best of section... Wow, thanks Doug that's awesome! |
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Post by YellowScooter on Jan 7, 2008 21:10:30 GMT -5
Most impressive. I was told the 4V mod was something 10x more involved than I wanted to get into. To the contrary, it looks exactly like what I had pictured to begin with. It's got me thinking again. Thanks!  |
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Post by anthonyvs on Jan 10, 2008 10:01:54 GMT -5
Does anyone know if the 4 valve head provides better performance over the big valve heads sold?
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Post by Bear on Jan 12, 2008 10:44:16 GMT -5
Well I'll just repeat what everyone else is saying, but thanks for the post. Great job with the photos and the play by play. Have a karma on me.
I look forward to your next adventure :-)
Bear
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Post by gy6rocket on Feb 12, 2008 22:56:37 GMT -5
Wow great tutorial, write up and detailed pictures!
I was a bit concerned while reading the thread that the piston head shape may make contact with the 4 valve setup since the piston is clearly for a 2 valve head. I was releaved when you stated turnover was ok. The extra head height must be for valve/piston clearance?
Ill bet that scoot does 70 when you get some free flow exhaust, that stock exhaust is a huge bottleneck in your otherwise stellar setup! Great work m8!
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geri
New Puppy Dawg
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Post by geri on Mar 3, 2008 19:53:27 GMT -5
VALVE CLEARANCEReturning the Flywheel/Cam Sprocket to Top Dead Center, grabbing a set of Metric Feeler Gauges and 9mm spanner, it was time to check and set all 4 of my shiny new Valves to .004 one question to this: As I also use the 4V head to my Dealim scooter I did made a look to my repair manual. There I was told to fix the valves as follows: Inlet Valve: 0.016 - 0.040 mm Outlet Valve: 0.036 - 0.060 mm Are you sure with the 0.004 mm? Isn`t there a digit fault? And what about the 0.060 mm at outlet valve? If you wish I can send you the repair manual by email, just give me a notice. But beware, it`s German ;) Beside this, you did made a awesome writeup, I was looking, reading and linking for nearly 2 hours, you saved my evening I wonder if my motor has also the 3rd plug into the sump to fix the BREATHER CATCH TANK. My plan was to cut the oem tube going to the airbox and bend it down to the street by putting a tiny K&N onto the tip to avoid dust comming into the engine. The Yiben is also available here, looks great. But the OEM 125cc engine is very weak so I decided to buy the Dealim If you have any problems with my english....sorry! Greets to Australia from Austria :) |
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Post by کíŋ on Mar 11, 2008 19:04:15 GMT -5
Inlet Valve: 0.016 - 0.040 mm Outlet Valve: 0.036 - 0.060 mm Are you sure with the 0.004 mm? Isn`t there a digit fault? And what about the 0.060 mm at outlet valve? Hi Geri, .004 of an inch on my feeler guage set. in mm that equals .102mm If your manual is giving you advice on valve clearances then it is for the old head that came with your scooter - You can ignore it. Cheers Ed. |
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Post by کíŋ on Mar 11, 2008 19:39:39 GMT -5
Ill bet that scoot does 70 when you get some free flow exhaust, that stock exhaust is a huge bottleneck in your otherwise stellar setup! I've been trialing this mod for 2 weeks now and all I can say is that it was like taking a cork out of the scooter's ar$e! Got rid of the original muffler brackets with an angle grinder and then used the supplied mounting bracket. First run along a quarter mile straight near my home, I had to do a double take at the speedo - 100kph (65mph) and she still had more to offer. You should hear this exhaust - it rumbles at idle & growls when the throttles' cracked open! - a little louder than the stock muffler but I wouldn't have it any other way ;D The next mod is to replace the stock 14t 40t gears with a set of 16t 37t that I'm currently having pressed - will keep you posted. |
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Post by gy6rocket on Mar 11, 2008 21:18:30 GMT -5
Looks great کíŋ, let us know your top speed run when you get your gearing done, I am interested how it will perform with your mods.
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ericpr
New Puppy Dawg
Posts: 3
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Post by ericpr on Mar 30, 2008 18:11:29 GMT -5
Hi am new here and i wanted to ask how much did the 180cc Kit cost you? Did you have to machine anything to fit it?
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ericpr
New Puppy Dawg
Posts: 3
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Post by ericpr on Mar 30, 2008 18:13:05 GMT -5
sorry The 170cc Kit
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Post by کíŋ on Apr 1, 2008 23:18:27 GMT -5
Hi ericpr, There's a breakdown of what I've spent here & no, I didn't need to machine the engine base to fit the 61mm big bore kit but I do recommend that the collar of the bore be cleaned up a little with a dremel to ensure an easy fit. |
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Post by کíŋ on Apr 1, 2008 23:23:12 GMT -5
Looks great کíŋ, let us know your top speed run when you get your gearing done, I am interested how it will perform with your mods. OK, here goes ;D Original Gears: 13t front, 40t rear Top Speed: 100kph Gear Ratio: 3.0 New Gears: 16t front, 38t rear Top Speed: 117kph Gear Ratio: 2.3 Here's How: The new gearset requires pressing of the small sprocket onto the original front gear shaft. To avoid any down time from having to remove my original gear, I purchased a stock front gear from my supplier and had the new 16t gear pressed at a machine shop. |
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Post by کíŋ on Apr 1, 2008 23:24:10 GMT -5
The first step was to remove the side cover and also a good chance to show off my new Gates Powerlink VE 835 20 Kevlar Belt ;D |
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Post by کíŋ on Apr 1, 2008 23:25:09 GMT -5
The clutch housing had to be removed to access the gearbox. I used a 2.5hp air compressor with rattle gun to remove the #17 center nut. Tip: Many rattle guns have a dial at the base that increases the torque, these nuts can be quite hard to remove so apply more torque if needed. |
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