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Post by greg on Jun 15, 2012 20:44:54 GMT -5
just received my new 2012 scoot from powersportsmax fast shipping they had it to me in about 12 days and i live in arkansas. working on the bugs now it runs fine sometimes for a few miles then it starts to hesitate and lacks full power. this is my second scooter from powersportsmax both i am happy with. i have removed the cap from the air/fuel mixture screw and turned it out 1/2 turn and replaced a ring clamp on the intake,replaced fuel filter. the scoot looks great compaired to my roketta catalina(which i dont own anymore) has a cig lighter and tach which is cool. any other znen ssr owners out there? pd. 1,388$ total inc. shipping.
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Post by Fox on Jun 15, 2012 20:54:28 GMT -5
Just have to start eliminating suspects. Valve lash, Carb clean (it's not unheard of to get a new carb with debris in it), swap CDI if you have another, check the petcock for good flow, make sure the tank is venting, vacuum leaks etc...
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Post by greg on Jun 15, 2012 22:04:10 GMT -5
thanks tomorrow im going to more carefully adjust the carb. what is it i can spray around the engine where air leaks can occur? sposed to be able to hear the rpm's change if there is a leak. really hoping its not the valves would hate to go through all that. but i wouldnt be surprised if its that. ill just try everything else first.
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Post by Fox on Jun 15, 2012 22:23:54 GMT -5
One other thing that occured to me is a bad auto enricher.
The auto enricher provides an extra supply of fuel through a dedicated circuit on initial start up and shuts off the supply after a bit. The enricher has a plunger that moves outward and plugs off the enricher circuit after a minute or so. If the enricher is bad, then it never shuts off the extra fuel. It's permanently stuck on RICH and you'll get bogging after the engine gets hot.
If you happen to have another carb lying around try swapping the enrichers. You can do it without removing the carb sometimes.
To test an enricher you remove it from carb, measure the distance the plunger sticks out. Hook it to a 12 V source to the leads and wait a little bit to see if the plunger moves outward.The enricher body will get warm to the touch.
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Post by greg on Jun 16, 2012 11:47:34 GMT -5
thanks you i am favoriting this thread for refference. turns out i havnt done anything to it yet today but its running good. suddenly. maybe it was the fuel filter or a vaccum leak that the new clamp fixed? i will adjust the valve clearance though soon. will see how it goes for a week maybe. just out enjoying the ride today. so far... real happy though with this znen. bigger gas tank would be cool! 1.5 gallons is to small for me i plan on long rides i drove my roketta catalina 150cc 200 miles once 90-95% full throttle with no issues at all! it had a 3 gallon tank.
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Post by Saber on Jun 16, 2012 12:00:19 GMT -5
I believe we have the same bike. I bought mine last year and have 3200 miles on it. Did a decent pdi from the start replaced all the hoses and fluids and it was a great bike for the first 1000 miles also had to adjust the valves 3 times in that first 1000. After that I moded the intake exhaust and trans. Now it's a great bike that hits 60mph gps confirmed.
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Post by greg on Jun 20, 2012 17:00:42 GMT -5
which valve adjustment thread do you reccommend? mine says to adjust 6 & 8 on a metal tag i dont know if that means both anywhere from 6 to 8 mm or intake 6 and exhaust 8? what was the sweet spot you found? if i go full throttle for a mile or 2 it loses power and top end but will go 40 all day. my 09 roketta catalina 150 would do full throttle and i did once for 200 miles no issues at all i know something is wrong might as well start at the valves.
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Post by waterjunk on Jun 20, 2012 19:40:49 GMT -5
Usually will mean Intake first and Exhaust second.
So 6 is your intake and 8 is exhaust.
Those seem a little big IMO, as a general rule I set to 3 and 4 unless it's a high mileage engine. Manuf specs on a chinese scooter can get vague.
Anyone else feel that's quite a gap?
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Post by Saber on Jun 20, 2012 19:48:17 GMT -5
I did 6 and 8. Just to be clear these are metric measurements. Also I found it a lot easier to do the valves instead of them both being closed at the same time i Adjust the intake valve with the exhaust open then hand rotate the engine until the intake is open and the exhaust is closed. There is less room for error and you don't have to worry about lining up timing marks with drilled holes in the cam gear.
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Post by Fox on Jun 20, 2012 20:53:14 GMT -5
The exhaust valve must be tapping like crazy. I don't know where these 6 and 8 gaps originated. You get all kind of weird info on the web. They should both be set to .05mm which equals .002-.003in. That way they work properly without a lot of loud tapping. Lining up the cam is easy. On a 150cc you stick a 14mm socket on the fan's center hexagon right through the fan shroud's center hole and you rotate the engine till the cam holes align to TDC position. For 50cc use a 13mm socket.
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Post by Saber on Jun 21, 2012 7:53:58 GMT -5
The 6 to 8 measurement is on the data plate for the bike. If you put your ear up to it you can hear a little tap tap. But every bike is different. Also if your going to do it the way you have pictured, you better make sure you remove the spark plug. I can't barely turn my engine by hand on the compression stroke with the whole fan exposed.
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Post by Fox on Jun 21, 2012 11:54:28 GMT -5
Hmmph... Data plate. Never saw one before or if I did I didn't read it. I just do 'em all the same and 300+ scooters later no complaints yet.
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Post by Saber on Jun 21, 2012 14:29:31 GMT -5
Must be my military back ground always look for the data plate first. That and they are made by Znen. All that I have seen so far have the data plates. With that said they are all cookie cutter so......
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Post by greg on Jun 21, 2012 16:38:26 GMT -5
i would like to do the job the way saber did seems easier let the exhaust close and do the intake and vice versa. does anyone see a problem doing it that way? thanks for the replies everyone!
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Post by Fox on Jun 21, 2012 19:00:29 GMT -5
If you align the cam as shown below then you can adjust both of them without stopping in between. There is no reason to do it any other way in my opinion but around here opinions vary. You can align it with the kick start lever for crying out loud!
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Post by Saber on Jun 21, 2012 19:58:50 GMT -5
I've done it both ways. I think it was Lefty who used to be on this board that gave me the idea. I just like the extra step of rotating the engine just so there is no chance of a faulty reading. But yes both ways work just fine.
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Post by waterjunk on Jun 21, 2012 22:07:35 GMT -5
I give credit to lefty for that method as well.
I know the cliche every bike is different but in the case of your engine its not.
Most users are here to learn how to make up for what the manufacturer has cut corners on. You may have a znen built motor and possibly znen decals. The plates and stickers are usually slapped on later in the manufacturer process .
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Post by greg on Jun 23, 2012 13:01:43 GMT -5
well done the valve job as saber reccommended and it runs perfect now. easy easy easy i did check the factory settings was .004 intake and .003 exhaust i changed it to .004 intake and .005 exhaust now i dont lose power when its warmed up runs great and no valve noise whatsoever. thanks guys for the help! iridium plug is on the way. just changed fluids again at 250 miles. last 2 tanks says im getting 89 mpg im guessing the odometer is off?
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Post by Fox on Jun 23, 2012 18:05:07 GMT -5
im guessing the odometer is off? Well there's a shocker! ;D
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Post by Saber on Jun 23, 2012 20:55:55 GMT -5
Awesome. Always glad to hear about another scooter doing what it should.
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Post by greg on Jun 23, 2012 20:57:38 GMT -5
overfilled the gas tank so my gas tank was not venting. i removed the venting system and stuck a gas filter pointing up instead so far so good.
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Post by greywolf187 on Jun 24, 2012 12:25:19 GMT -5
I like to see good things happening
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Post by greg on Jun 29, 2012 19:55:18 GMT -5
changed out all the fuel lines today and some of the vacuum lines replaced the vacuum t's with better plastic ones couldnt find metal looked all over. removed the fuelpump/petcock thing now its a straight shot to the carb i have a manual shut off valve but forgot to put it on ill do that later sometime. also put in a iridium plug noticed better performance and so far no bogging like there was before. i adjusted the float valve lower it was maxed out to the top. and turned out the air/fuel 2 3/4 turns total. keeps getting better!
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Post by jendow on Jun 30, 2012 19:24:27 GMT -5
any other znen ssr owners out there? Hi there! I've got a Znen Tuscan (which they now call the Heritage 150). Although it looks suspiciously like the il bello. But I'm sure that's just coincidence. To be kind, it's had some... issues. After my crash it sat for 2 years and I'm in the process of shaking out the bugs now; which is time-consuming with my limited skill and even more limited budget. But it's getting there.
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Post by greg on Jun 30, 2012 19:56:37 GMT -5
any other znen ssr owners out there? Hi there! I've got a Znen Tuscan (which they now call the Heritage 150). Although it looks suspiciously like the il bello. But I'm sure that's just coincidence. To be kind, it's had some... issues. After my crash it sat for 2 years and I'm in the process of shaking out the bugs now; which is time-consuming with my limited skill and even more limited budget. But it's getting there. very cool. we'll learn something plus it gives us something to do besides work. best bug i removed was the petcock so far seems to have solved my loss of power issue.
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Post by greg on Jul 4, 2012 18:14:40 GMT -5
ok then.
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Post by greg on Jul 18, 2012 18:17:46 GMT -5
mikuni pump works great i notice the fuel filter stays full now seems to have more power. but now im getting clutch slip(started happening before the fuel pump install) so im ordering a perf clutch and if it doesnt have one a gates belt.
so at scrappys site i see a perf clutch and id imagine ill need the perf bell housing. is that all i need to complete the clutch upgrade? id like to reuse the sping i allready have. whats the sliding torque sheave for?
or should i get the 3 pack of springs is that recommended?
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Post by greg on Jul 18, 2012 19:43:20 GMT -5
took it for another ride what happens was the first time it happened it shuddered after a 12 mile ride when id stop for a turn. that was yesterday today it did it when it was just warm at start up it shudders and seems to slip too. and a few times when id stop to see if it would do it again it seemed to be grabbing a little like it wasnt completely in neutral.(not every time though) this is my znen 150. i just took off the screen completely that covered the front of the cvt cover so airflow is at max. before i did take out the filter and cut every other piece. so is it the clutch? it does grab at 2500 rpm like i hear its supposed to it idles at just under 1850 rpm
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Post by greg on Jul 18, 2012 19:59:50 GMT -5
and it has 1k china miles on it. never opened the cover yet.
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Post by orphansoul on Jul 18, 2012 20:16:43 GMT -5
Your pads may just be glazed
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