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Post by mnfitz on Mar 6, 2012 19:48:27 GMT -5
Popped the throttle cable right at the twist-grip barrel stop. Rode about 20 miles pulling the wire stub manually (wedged it in my screwdriver handle) Appears to be a 72" type 2 that Greg carries, so I zipped off an order to him. eshop.mainelyscooters.com/product/cat-139qmb/72-throttle-cable-type-2/ I'm 99% sure it's the right one, but will verify when I get it in case someone else needs one. Mike |
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Post by terrilee on Mar 6, 2012 19:53:42 GMT -5
hey
did u already order it?
i think so,
if so, just write him and ask him nice,
if it the right one.
he'll help u.
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Post by cliftonc on Mar 7, 2012 10:48:23 GMT -5
Thanks Mike. I have a 150TKA, and there is not even a usable owner's manual, much less a parts catalog. Being used to Hondas, this caught me by surprise. I would appreciate the data to add to my reference stuff.
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Post by mnfitz on Mar 7, 2012 20:37:01 GMT -5
Thanks Mike. I have a 150TKA, and there is not even a usable owner's manual, much less a parts catalog. Being used to Hondas, this caught me by surprise. I would appreciate the data to add to my reference stuff. Will do. Have you had any "issues" with yours? Do you know what main jet size these come with? I opened up my carb to check, and there weren't any markings (and I didn't have anything handy to measure it with). I'm thinking about replacing my hard to find pleated air filter with uni-filter foam and figure I'll need to put in a larger jet..... just not sure what I need to order. One other set of sizes I've figured out- the engine mounting bushings (one of mine was bad) are 28mm OD, 10mm ID (appear to be "standard" for this engine). The little stabilizer dog bone at the left end of the engine mounting bolt has bushings 30mm OD, 10mm ID and about 25mm wide. NOT the same ones as the engine itself! |
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Post by cliftonc on Mar 8, 2012 0:11:16 GMT -5
The issues I had were a fuel pump that was weak out of the box, and the tires and light bulbs were utter rubbish. The front end alignment needed touching up. (alignment is apparently somewhat weight-dependent) I replaced the pump with a bit heavier one, replaced all the bulbs, and the tires with Continentals, and before I even started it, I switched out the engine and final drive oil with Amsoil synthetic. So far about 2300 miles, and buzzing along. At the 3000 mile fluid changes, I will adjust the valves, and lube the front end again. The battery seems to be showing signs of getting weak, and there is a 9AH Yuasa that will fit, so that will probably be changed. The carb seems fine as-is.
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Post by mnfitz on Mar 8, 2012 8:44:40 GMT -5
Funny you'd mention a weak battery. I replaced mine before figuring out that it just wasn't charging very well. The stator would only give me about 12.7V at high rpm. I put it on a float charger from time to time and everything seemed OK. When I dropped the front end of the motor 2" to replace the bad bushing I mentioned, I must have given the wiring a bit of a tug and now it charges like a champ (13.5 v at high rpm, nearly 13 v at idle). Don't know if I had a bad ground, or some other bad connection that fiddling with it inadvertently fixed. As I've mentioned, I'd rather be lucky than good!  |
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Post by cliftonc on Mar 8, 2012 13:48:03 GMT -5
As I've mentioned, I'd rather be lucky than good! heh heh. Oh yeah - quality in these things is "sketchy". When I had the front fairing off doing bulb things, I took the opportunity to jiggle everything while I was there, and cleared up one problem doing that. Mine is the battery; it seems to be charging fine while riding, but in the garage without the float charger, it gets weak after a couple of days, even with the battery disconnected, and it seems to be getting worse, so that battery is toast. I rode Brit bikes for a while back in the day, and Lucas electrics were infamous. I am still a bit leery of the charging system though, it just doesn't seem to have any "reserve power". On the other scoots, I run a CB handi-talkie for riding with some groups, and I am hesitant to do it with this one. While riding it would be fine, but a lot of idling may run it short. I rarely ride after dark, and one thing I thought about was disconnecting the low-beam filaments for daytime riding and taking that load off; if I ride it after dark, I can just switch to high-beam and bring the headlights back. My wife keeps harping on safety safety, but I think I would be OK - for 25 years, I rode bikes without daytime headlights... |
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Post by ustacould on Mar 8, 2012 15:45:30 GMT -5
Cliftonc, I know that you didn't ask but I thought I would give you a suggestion any way. You might want to switch to LED bulbs as the drain on the battery would be so minimal that the regulator wouldn't even see them. In fact there are those few that have changed over to all LEDs and had to install a load resistor so that the regulator would see usage.
ed
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Post by cliftonc on Mar 8, 2012 22:55:23 GMT -5
All good, Ustacould, I will take input where I can get it. ;D I have thought about it, but I want a bit more input on the LEDs. On the rare times that I ride after dark, I do need plenty o' light, and I am waiting for a bit more info on how bright these things actually are. We will see. I use LED flashlights here at the house and in the vehicles, and I am pleased with them. I got the idea from the old Elite 250 - last summer, I was going regularly to a Tuesday-night gather up with one of the riding clubs, and was riding the Elite most of the time. The low-beam burned out, but the high was still good, and I did that for a few days while the new bulb was on order. This all kinda tickles me because I rode Brit bikes back in the day, and the Lucas electrics on my BSA made the Chinese scooters look like state-of-the-art. Nothing like 50mph at night, hit a bump, and the whole bike goes dark.  My Norton used the taillight bulb as a kind of fuse, it stayed on all the time, though the headlight did not. Burn out the bulb going down the road, and it was like kill-switch time. I used to carry a couple of extras in the tool bag.  |
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Post by mnfitz on Mar 10, 2012 12:36:15 GMT -5
Popped the throttle cable right at the twist-grip barrel stop. Rode about 20 miles pulling the wire stub manually (wedged it in my screwdriver handle) Appears to be a 72" type 2 that Greg carries, so I zipped off an order to him. eshop.mainelyscooters.com/product/cat-139qmb/72-throttle-cable-type-2/ I'm 99% sure it's the right one, but will verify when I get it in case someone else needs one. Mike Well, I've received the cable and I'm pleased to report I am now 100% sure it's 99% the correct one. The small clip (captive) that holds the cable tight against the grip clamp is too short to reach the hole that is tapped for it's attachment screw. There IS a dummy hole that it mates up with that I was able to use with a self-tapping screw to hold it in place. Pretty darn close to being the identically correct part.... well within Chinese tolerances! |
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Post by cliftonc on Mar 10, 2012 20:36:14 GMT -5
Well, I've received the cable and I'm pleased to report I am now 100% sure it's 99% the correct one. The small clip (captive) that holds the cable tight against the grip clamp is too short to reach the hole that is tapped for it's attachment screw. There IS a dummy hole that it mates up with that I was able to use with a self-tapping screw to hold it in place. Pretty darn close to being the identically correct part.... well within Chinese tolerances! Excellent! Thanks! |
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My Norton used the taillight bulb as a kind of fuse, it stayed on all the time, though the headlight did not. Burn out the bulb going down the road, and it was like kill-switch time. I used to carry a couple of extras in the tool bag. 