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Post by lancef3113 on Oct 26, 2011 20:18:06 GMT -5
Ok, so a brief rundown of what I have. I purchased a ice bear pst150-11 used with about 900 miles on it. Needless to say I haven't been spared from the usual problems that seem to plaque this model.
So here is what I've done so far...new roller chain, new air filter....the engine has just never run right, constant burning of the oil etc. I also had the shuttering issue if I gases it too hard at takeoff....so I babies it around for a hundred miles until one day while goin down the road the drive belt disintegrated. So I ordered a new belt and when I put it on I discovered the fan side of the variator was stripped from the crank, so it could spin freely...also the variator backing plate had been ground down from the "stop" on the crank. So I put a washer on it to tighten it all back up ( knew it would eventually do it again, but wanted some more time on the bike befor it gets cold).. So needless to say it only gave me a couple more months...so now I'm doin a complete engine rebuild.
New crank
Hoca variator with 12g and 13g rollers
Went from a 14/40 tranny gear to 15/39
30mm hoca racing carb
Hoca intake
170cc big bore kit
Carbon fiber exhaust
Kevlar belt
Port and polished head
Hotter coil and wire
Racing cdi
Hoca turbo fan
Oil cooler
So now I've got the engine all put back together and ready to go...actually it's sitting on my dinning room table lol. (thank god I've got an easy goin lady)
There is a couple other things I need to address before putting the engine back in.
The rear tires (wheel hubs) keep coming loose....I tighten the castle nut and put in the cotter pin but they loosen back up..? Anyone else had this issue? Almost seems like it must be pulling axle out of the differential ever so slightly. I know someone has pulled it all apart, but does anyone have pictures of what I can expect inside of the rear end?
Also, and this is just asking for personal opinions, I'm planning on replacing the crappy rear shocks that came with this thing...I've found two shocks that I like, both gas adjustable. The stock shock bolt hole distance is 10".. The two aftermarket ones are 10.7" and 11.5". I know the longer the shock the higher it will make the back of the bike, which I'm not against. But at some point it will be changing the way the bike handles, and possibly the angle of the shock could change enough to cause a suspension issue....any opinions on which one I should go with?
Also, does anyone know of a good parts dealer who can get me oem parts like the wheel hubs?
Thx
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Post by edfr on Oct 26, 2011 20:47:09 GMT -5
Lance, Before you put that motor in CHECK IF IT IS MISSING the MAIN DRIVE SHAFT BEARING. YEA, they went cheap a did not spend another couple of bucks and LEFT OUT A MAIN DRIVE SHAFT BEARING. You maybe should have notice it since you changed the Tranny Gears. But here is where the Missing Bearing Should go. Lefty  Here is the Bearing IN:  If the Bearing is missing it will EVENTUALLY RUIN Your gears and Possibley Crack the case. Reason is due to the Torque the Shaft moves OUT and Disengages the gear Teeth and starts to wear them down. It will JUMP AND SHUDDER just like you already ran into. Here is what you can expect if you tear down your rear Axle:  Also look at your AXLE TUBE that holds the Axles and see if it has TWO littl Bolts about 6 inchs from each end of the Axle LIKE THIS:  To tighten up the Axles so they do not move out YOU NEED to ADD washer behind the CASTLE NUT.  |
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Post by lancef3113 on Oct 26, 2011 21:34:28 GMT -5
Thank u zoo much...that's exactly what I was hoping someone could show me. I did put the new bearing in, a z-radial 6004 (got that one from one of your other post)
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Post by lancef3113 on Oct 26, 2011 21:36:25 GMT -5
What do u think about my shock ideas?
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Post by edfr on Oct 26, 2011 22:06:18 GMT -5
Either shock will be fine, I have 3" taller tires on mine and it raised the back end up 1 1/2 inchs not problems what so ever. Mine is one of the First Trikes that came in back in March of 2009 had two delivered one for me and one for my brother-in law. If you notice the filter is made out of Hard Plastic you can put on a K&N without upjetting since it comes with a Pretty Free Flow Filter already. But the One it comes with will break to pieces.
Lefty
Lefty
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Post by lancef3113 on Oct 27, 2011 8:32:45 GMT -5
Ya, the filter was already broken apart apart when I got it, so i already put a filter on it. I appreciate all the info. I'm an airline pilot, so needless to say I'm rarely home, so it's nice to have an idea of what I'm getting into before I start a project. The hubs are loose ( don't fight tight over the axel). Figured they probably got worn down from the tires rocking back and fourth. Figured I would probably need to replace them...do u have a supplier you use for oem parts?
Here is an odd question...if the hubs mount directly to the Axels why wouldn't they just make them one solid piece? Maybe throw a couple tack welds on it
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Post by edfr on Oct 27, 2011 12:08:15 GMT -5
HEHEHE!! Then you would have a SOLID AXLE. But don't forget there is a bearings on the Axle right behind the HUB. Also you have to be able to pull the axles out to also change or work on the Differential and bearings as well.
BUT DOES your AXLE TUBE have those Little BOLTS about 6 inchs away from the ends of the AXLE TUBE?
If the HUB WOBBLES take it off and see if the SPLINES on the HUB are still in TACK or WORN DOWN due to the Wobbleing. If they are worn down you need new HUBS. You can call JIM from RAPIDREPAIR he can order you two new hubs from Ice Bear. If the Splines still look good then ADD WASHERS BEHIND THE CASTLE NUT So that it fits tight.
Myself I order directly from ICE BEAR in CA, I have been ordering direct from them since I got the Trikes. Reason they take care of me is because two weeks after the Trikes were delivered the Place I ordered them from CLOSED DOWN.
Lefty
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Post by lancef3113 on Oct 27, 2011 22:00:38 GMT -5
thanks for the info...im hoping to get the rear end removed within the next week and give them a call so i can get some new hubs.
I got to lookin at the new turbo fan from hoca that i purchased...odly its like 20mm smaller in diameter than the original...?! unfortunatly i cannot find any reviews online about this fan, guess they had me at the word turbo..lol. just dont see how a smaller fan can push out more air, unless the cooling fins are drastically improved....kinda scares me lol. what are your thoughts on it
Im also pulling off the body panels too, the original paint just didnt hold up soo well, so im gonna do a custom paint job...im thinking like a hot-rod copper with a bunch of flake in it....hopefully its gonna be the coolest lookin trike around...now only if i can get it all back together and running lol
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Post by edfr on Oct 27, 2011 22:20:47 GMT -5
Those so called turbo fans do not do squat, only so much air can get in there and under the Plastic motor cover to help cool it down. The fan it comes with does the job just fine. They sell a lot of stuff that say PERFORMANCE but a lot of the things they sell do nothing for performance. Did you get a performance Variator which should be the same size as your fan face plate 115mm the oem Variators are usually 105-107mm in diameter.
Lefty
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Post by lancef3113 on Oct 28, 2011 8:14:44 GMT -5
ya, i got a hoca variator and im gonna mix in 12 and 13gram rollers
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Post by rapidjim on Oct 28, 2011 14:33:02 GMT -5
Lance,
If you have trouble getting OEM parts give me a call.
Jim/Owner
Rapid Repair
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Post by lancef3113 on Oct 28, 2011 17:55:27 GMT -5
Hey Jim, thx for offering to help me get some of these parts. What's the preferred method on getting ahold of you?
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Post by ger42 on Oct 28, 2011 19:37:48 GMT -5
Hey Jim, thx for offering to help me get some of these parts. What's the preferred method on getting ahold of you? What worked for me was a roaring fire some wet pine branches and a blanket. |
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Post by lancef3113 on Oct 28, 2011 23:23:29 GMT -5
Sorry, looked at the post on my phone and it cut off ur banner with ur number. Will give u a call in the next few days. Thx jim
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Post by rapidjim on Oct 29, 2011 9:42:23 GMT -5
Okay Lance. We will do what we can for you.
Jim
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Post by lancef3113 on Nov 3, 2011 18:04:37 GMT -5
Finally got the rear end taken all apart...those Axel's are a real pain in the &$@ to get out. But I discovered all 4 bearings are shot. Wouldn't happen to know the size of the two inner bearings would you? I haven't pressed them out yet to see what is stamped on them. I'm kinda surprised that they are in such bad shape with only a thousand miles on the bike. Any suggestions on what brand of bearing would overall be better than the oem ones?
Also, has anyone had any good look with one of the performance cdi's? If so which one...
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Post by edfr on Nov 4, 2011 21:29:15 GMT -5
Here are the inner bearings you need: Lefty www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit482?gclid=CKjmtNy3nqwCFQUKKgodqkEE3wAs far as a Performance CDI if your current CDI allows you to reach 8000 grand you do not need one. But if it cuts out once you reach a certain RPM then it is restricted. But you do not want to be running high RPMS anyway. Your motor which is just like mine 157QMJ it makes its Max Horsepower at 7500 rpms. So work with your CVT to run just under that with the Belt climbing high on the performance Variator. But if you still want to get one I got a NCY CDI on it now just for reliability and a Performance Coil and a Iridium Plug. Lefty |
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Post by lancef3113 on Nov 5, 2011 9:10:56 GMT -5
Wow, didn't just give me the size...gave me the actual website and everything! Thank u soo much! You are a wealth of knowledge.
I know a few other people have complained about this model trike burning through the rear brake pads quickly, when I got mine they where shot also, so I replaced them....after 100 miles the are shot again....anyone figure out how to solve this problem? I ordered a new disk cause the old one was lookin rather rough, but I notice the pads are actually wearing at a tapper on both pads...almost like the caliper brakets are not perfectly true....any thoughts? Also the mounting bracket for the caliper seems kinda weak and has a slight angle to it....think I'm gonna make a new one.
I agree with trying to keep the rpm's low, the bike used to be screaming through the rpm's...so deffinetly want that to change. Did your bike come with a tach, or are you using and aftermarket one? Everyone always talked about what speed they are getting at certain rpm's, but I've got no tach.
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Post by edfr on Nov 5, 2011 22:00:40 GMT -5
I have the Orginal Pads front and back and I have 7500KL on the Trike. What may cause unusal wear is if the Rear Axle is NOT straight. Do you get some vibration through the frame when riding say starting around 20mph? If so your Axle is cocked and I bet your chain is also hitting one side or the other on the sprocket teeth. Mine has a Tach If you put in 12 gram rollers your rpms will drop and you should not loose top end. Here is my Instrument panel I just installed the radio: On the instrument panel the little one on the left is Gas then the Speedo then the Tach then the Volt meter. Lefty CLICK ON THE VIDEO:  |
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Post by lancef3113 on Nov 5, 2011 22:55:51 GMT -5
Ya, yours is definitely set up different. Mine has all those except the tach, but the instrument cluster itself is different. Maybe I will just put a trail tech on it, than it would solve the speedo being soo far off plus can tell me the engine temp.
What I mean about the brake pads wearing to a tapper is the pads tapper from one end to the other (the outermost area closest to the edge of the disc is worn down more than tabards the middle of the disk) but both pads are wearing to the tapper identically
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Post by edfr on Nov 5, 2011 23:47:30 GMT -5
Lance,
Yea get a tach that will help in tuneing and telling you how your motor is running and can give you early warning that something isn't right or going.
Lefty
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Post by lancef3113 on Nov 9, 2011 20:37:16 GMT -5
took the defferential apart today to install the new bearings...i ordered all four bearings for the rear end...must of doubled up the order on acident...so if anyone needs new bearings for the rear axel let me know, got an extra set. when i pulled the diff aparts i found all kinds of metal flakes, but the spider gears look to be in good shape. the odd thing is the copper shims where completly destroyed.
anyone have any recommedations on a good performance variator and where i can get it? im tired of waiting on the hoca variator i ordered to get in stock.
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Post by edfr on Nov 9, 2011 20:49:51 GMT -5
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Post by lancef3113 on Nov 19, 2011 10:07:45 GMT -5
Hey lefty, having a problem getting a couple parts I need...I need new rear engine mount bushing. Thought they would be a standard size but guess I'm wrong...the size is 10mm I'd x 22mm od x 22mm wide...closest thing I can find is a 21mm od, plus the copper shims in the differential where distorted somehow, so I need to replace them. Jim tried real hard to find them but couldn't, have any other suggestions?
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Post by edfr on Nov 19, 2011 12:45:53 GMT -5
No I have no idea and if JIM cannot find them since he is a dealer for IB trikes I don't know who else. Now the shims for the differential you may want to PM WILDMAN he had some made for his when he re-built his differential and since he sold his -11 trike just like yours he may have some left over.
Lefty
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Post by lancef3113 on Nov 19, 2011 13:49:15 GMT -5
Bummer...well I guess plan b. I found engine bushings that r the right diameter, just too long. Will have to cut them down. I also found a website that sells a countless number of copper "washers" in different sizes and thickness....only problem is mine where distorted so I have nothing to measure for thickness and size
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Post by edfr on Nov 19, 2011 14:17:46 GMT -5
Lancef3113,
If you are talking about the Shims in the Differental to seal the grease they are supposed to be curved and not flat.
Where did you find the bushings that are the right size but just a little longer, i will order some for mine as well.
Lefty
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Post by lancef3113 on Nov 19, 2011 14:31:41 GMT -5
Ya, those r the ones I'm talk in about....do u think that thin ones, like .005 inches would conform one installed? The bushings I came across are on partsforscooters. When I measured I found the opening to be 10mm Id x 22mm od x 20 mm wide...I found another set that is right except the od says it's 21mm...I'm wondering if maybe it's just a discrepency in the measurements...but I'm tired of buying parts that don't fit, so I'm a little standoffish about purchasing them and seeing
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Post by edfr on Nov 19, 2011 14:48:12 GMT -5
I believe they are .020 mm in thickness, Wildman and I were one of the first to start modding our trikes back in 2009 and he had some made for him and myself I just went into the garage and he wrote on the package .020mm on those.
Lefty
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Post by lancef3113 on Nov 19, 2011 15:44:54 GMT -5
Any idea where he had them made? And where they made with the contuer or flat?
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