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Post by cpete1 on Sept 27, 2011 19:01:53 GMT -5
I bought a QLINK Commuter 250 in 2008, The badge inside the trunk says the bike was made by CFMOTO. CfMOTO still sells a similiar bike called the Fashion 250. I wanted some information about the special tools needed to service the bike. I was told to call Qlink. Wasn' t looking for anything for nothing just wanted to locate the tools. I just spoke to Roxanne at CFMOTO. Tools aren't available nor are the service manuals for the bikes unless your a dealer. She also said the clutches don't need servicing. I have a Qlink service manual and I can tell you the clutch should be serviced. The dealers I have done business with have been very supporting but I would strongly urge anyone buying a scooter to avoid CFMOTO. The information they are giving is flawed and and could very well endanger me as a rider. Just walk away from them.
Chris
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Post by Carolina Fun Machines on Sept 27, 2011 19:21:58 GMT -5
We are a CFMOTO dealer and are happy to let our customers have access to the service manuals. Instead of putting CFMOTO down maybe you should talk to your dealer. What do they have to hide by not allowing you to have the manuals?? Some service revenue?
CFMOTO to my knowledge does not sell tools. We get our tools from tool distributors. Most end users don't want to pay the price of these tools for their needs, they can be expensive.
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Post by cpete1 on Sept 27, 2011 20:21:39 GMT -5
I currently own the qlink service manual that I bought when I bought my scoot. My dealer went broke. I have purchased parts through other dealers all of whom have been decent to do business with. I am experiencing a problem with my scooter, described elsewhere in this forum. The manual has part numbers listed for the tools needed to service the clutch. These numbers are in the honda helix manual also as per a member of this group. I simply wanted to find out about buying the tools that the manufacturer recommends in thier own service book. I was told by cfmoto to call qlink. Today I called qlink, they cannot get the tools. They still offer parts but no tools. I called CFMoto for the same info. I was told,
1) No tools, call Qlink.
2) The 2nd design clutch is better than the first.
3) Its is sold as a unit and does not require service.
4) Cfmoto doesn't sell manuals to end users, only dealers.
If you are a dealer then you know there are some things on the clutch that should be lubricated. I only wrote about what happened to me and this occurred only in the last few days. I don't consider myself a typical "end user". I like my bike and want to find out whats making the belts fail myself. If the tools don't exist, they should change the service manual. Just what exactly am I doing wrong here in wanting to be knowledgable about my bike.
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Post by cpete1 on Sept 27, 2011 20:32:40 GMT -5
I just looked thru my cds and found my copy of the cfmoto service manual for the fashion 250. The part numbers for the tools are the same as in my qlink. All this trouble because I thought I was doing the proper thing and educate myself about taking care of my bike. Like I said, Just walk away.
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Post by TERRA NUVO on Sept 27, 2011 21:20:06 GMT -5
PATIENCE IS THE BEST DETECTIVE, I DON'T HAVE A CF MOTO, BUT AM SURE THEY HAVE BROUGHT SOME GOOD THINGS TO THE WORLD, LIKE HONDA.
they are in a bad place right now, like you and me, you want a break give them a break too.
things don't improve, then speak up.
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Post by skuttadawg on Sept 27, 2011 23:06:39 GMT -5
Cfmoto makes engines for several scooter companies and atvs too . I am very happy with my Echarm , its made well but has some flaws . Cfmoto is a great in the middle scooter brand . They are not the disposable types nor are they Honda or Vespa . Liquid cooled , EFI with Ducatti ecu and 2 year warranty puts them above most . A Honda scooter would have been 3times more money and only have a 1 year warranty . I would rather pay a lil extra upfront that go cheap and require parts to be upgraded to be more reliable and decent performance stock . Air cooled Gy6s have boocoos of parts like BBKs , but most Cfmoto performance parts are for the V3 or V5 . Since its made good I can enjoy it with only requirement being put good gas in the tank .
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Post by skuttadawg on Sept 27, 2011 23:19:04 GMT -5
My Echarm looks , rides , performs , better quality and safer than my TaoTao Atm 50 byfar . It only weighs 36 more lbs too than my 50 . I read up on reviews and most agree they are made good and great middle class of scooters . I love having a 2 year warranty as well . Scooters here the China ones have none , 30 , or 90 day warranty which was a deal breaker to me if spending over a grand and be new . I plan on testing an Aprila Scarabeo which mine is modeled after . I have a trouble light that you count the flashes to look up trouble code . I would like to get the handheld computer that hooks up to the terminal in access panel .
The only bad thing I can say is that in the owners manual it said it has a parking brake under the seat that locks rear wheel and disables ignition . I thought that was a super feature to help secure it . Well my Echarm for some &$&*(*% reason does not have this feature installed , whaah
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Post by cpete1 on Sept 28, 2011 6:45:10 GMT -5
"Bad place right now" Try riding your scoot at 60 mph and locking up the brake!!!! Or put a belt on, drive for 100 miles and put another belt on. Or just for the hell of it, park it after 100 miles where-ever you are and make calls to get a ride home, and then go back with a truck and pick the thing up. All I want to do is fix my bike back to factory spec., Thats what the service manual is about and the special tools they call for to accomplish that. The woman I spoke to at CFMOTO originally told me that it was typical for scooter belt to go bad at 150 miles, on my first phone call back in June. This is absurd. I'm just reporting what I've found. I'm finding out now, Cheap isn't always inexpensive. I wish I bought somewhere else.
Chris
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Post by Pony66 on Sept 28, 2011 9:12:37 GMT -5
If anyone really wants to service their scooter, just do it. I dont know anyone in this forum that uses those "special tools". Go to a pawn shop and get some metric wrenches, a couple C-clamps and a cheap impact wrench.
This is the place to get info on servicing and fixing scooters, much better than some lady in an office somewhere.
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Post by Scooter Elements on Sept 28, 2011 9:16:17 GMT -5
We are a CFMOTO dealer and are happy to let our customers have access to the service manuals. Instead of putting CFMOTO down maybe you should talk to your dealer. What do they have to hide by not allowing you to have the manuals?? Some service revenue? CFMOTO to my knowledge does not sell tools. We get our tools from tool distributors. Most end users don't want to pay the price of these tools for their needs, they can be expensive. I got customers that own CF MOTO and they love it. go all over the island with it. |
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Post by tvnacman on Sept 28, 2011 10:59:55 GMT -5
just buy a new clutch . what makes you think the clutch is bad anyway . could it just be elcheepo belts . I had with my scooter the cheap belt broke I replaced it and it broke again . then the third time it started to wear very fast . Along the way I found the variator the rollers were out of place holding it in high gear and not moving on the boss . it had cooper strands stuck between the pully and the boss . the strands git wedged in the clutch also . Before I realized it I thought I cleaned everything up perfect .
I would pull the variator and the clutch and inspect the pullys for any knicks or sharp edges , also make sure the kick starter and shaft are in place and there is no rubbing . sure having the correct tool is important , however you can work around it , just a little harder . I feel the same way you do get the correct tool for the job . But I still want to ride!!!!
John
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Post by gtbike on Sept 28, 2011 11:35:34 GMT -5
cpete1 take a breath! If your belt is shredding....;-)  Each time you replace the belt you need to clean your clutch and variator surfaces with either an abrasive or something like carb cleaner to remove the residue from the last burned up one(s). Those little stripes of rubber harden with heat to the equivalent of obsidian blades and will repeatedly shred your belt ...guess why I know this? Youtube has 100's of helpful how-to videos for the DIY scooter repairman who may not have access to shop specific tools. And has been stated over and over you don't need shop specific tools to get the job done. Many of us ride our scooters as our daily ride and don't have the time to look for them we just get back on the road by using the collective knowledge base that this forum supplies. I have a Lance Milan and if I were to list the poor engineering and lack of clear info available from them I would have committed ritual suicide by now instead I found this site and now have 8000+ miles on said Milan. Oh and I've had two 60 MPH (probably 52 mph real) rear wheel lock ups on Pacific Coast Highway in San Diego during morning rush hour by the Airport, until I finally decided to seek learning about why my belt was shredding. Buying from any other mfg than CFMOTO would have been same thing different issues... |
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Post by cpete1 on Sept 28, 2011 19:00:23 GMT -5
GTBIke, I did all that on the last belt install. I bought the belt from Viper, a well liked vendor on this site. And they are excellent to do business with. I pulled the front pulley, installed new wieghts, cleaned the thing with brake cleaner, regreased as per the instructions in my service manual, as vague as they are with the chinese to american translation. 150 miles later, the belt broke again just like in your picture. Then I decided to get into the clutch,(driven pulley). I took it off the bike. I did not take it apart as I wasn't sure how to hold the pulley stationary. I've seen the utube videos but that's only part of the process. I decided I had to do something as I 'm still blowing belts. So I tried to disassemble the clutch, It finally broke so then it didn't matter how it came apart. I finally opened it up to see that there is a collar that holds 3 guide pins inside. The entire unit was rusted tight although it could still move some. These guide pins along with a bearing inside require regreasing or the pulley doesn't open up. The bearing requires regreasing which involves driving out of the tube and then reinstalling it. The manual lists a bearing driver also. I bought a new clutch and am waiting for it to arrive but eventually, I'll have to service that one too if I want to keep riding. I loved my scooter but trying to get the right stuff to do the job easier is impossible with CF MOTO. I got over 9000 miles on the scooter. I also own a 1100 V-star. I know alittle about bikes. If its not a big deal to people, so be it, but I thought I'd pass along whats going on. I won't buy another machine from CFMOTO.
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Post by auditech on Sept 30, 2011 0:50:07 GMT -5
Hi there Chris! I have attached several direct links where you can purchase the tools to service your Scooter. I, myself own 2 2008 Qlink Commuter 250; one for myself and one for the wife. I have nothing but excellent things to say about them and consider myself an expert on these specific models. I have been a ASE Master Certified Mechanics for 11 years. I have torn both of these scoot down to there frame and done a full customization to them. Currently the wife's is ripped down to the core as I'm boring it out and installing the 300cc bigbore upgrade. I have taken the hardwork out for you as I understand the frustration of figuring out where to get the tools from. But I agree with the other people here that sometimes you have to adapt and overcome as even the professional mechanics don't always have all of the necessary tools and have fabricate or make do with what they have. I would love to post you pictures of ours, but unfortunately I have be lurking ScootDawg for 4 years, but I believe this is my first post and have no idea how to even attach a photo. If anyone can help with this let me know. You will need a bearing driver kit, a honda drive/driven pulley holder, a 41mm socket, a blindhole bearing puller, all of which I have included links to. Additionally you should have a 17mm and 21 or 22 mm socket (<--can't remember which one) along with an impact gun and a torque wrench. With the drive pulley, it is essential that the face be absolutely clean without any residue. I recommend cleaning both faces off with fabric scotchbrite pad. The rollers on the backside require a MINIMAL, I REPEAT, MINIMAL amount of grease. I learned this the hard way at 70 mph when the slightest amount flung out and got on the belt causing the engine to redline and the scooter to decelerate. To rebuild the driven pulley, remove it from the vehicle. You don't need any fancy press, put it on the floor and stand on it with your two feet while using an impact to take off the 41mm nut. Carefully separate. At this point I recommend buffing up the clutch shoes with a air operated "wizzy wheel" as I call it to prevent clutch take-off chatter. To remove the shaft that encases the slide rollers, use two screw drivers, you don't need the special tool for this. Clean that up really good and again, grease it up with a MINIMAL amount of grease. Also grease the needle bearing inside of the driven clutch. Make sure there is no binding as mine locked up at about 12,000 miles. I also recommend replacing the rear differential fluid at this time. When you are draining it, use a clean drain pan so you can see if there any metal debri in the fluid. Honda, CF-moto had a problem with the clutch input shaft shredding a couple tech inside of the gearbox causing it to have HORRIBLE shuttering on take-off which would inevitably cause it to eat up the belt prematurely. If you do see metal in the fluid, then you will need to separate the rear differential drive cover and rebuild the rear differential. When you go to assemble all of this if you haven't given up at this point, make sure to drain the PCV drain hose. This was a poor product design placement as if this tube fills up with oil it will be sucked into the belt housing causing the belt to slip, overheat, and shred. Also make that NOT the engine air filter, but the actual CVT intake filter and clean and free flowing as any restrictions will not allow airflow to cool the belt. When reassembling the driven pulley or any of these parts, DO NOT USE AN IMPACT! . Stand on the driven pulley again holding it down with your feet while starting the 41mm nut until tight. Use the drive pulley to hold the item on the scooter while torqueing the bolts to spec. I also highly recommend getting the online service manual through www.cyclepeda.com It is the best $40 you can spend. Just put it in as any model year Honda Helix. Hopefully this helps. Regards, Dane Dobrinska www.bikebandit.com/search?dsNav=Ntk:All|554106|3|,Ny:True,Ro:0,A:p_product_id,Nr:OR(p_available_state:2,AND(p_available_state:1,1350)) www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10155_12602_00947942000P?vName=Hand+Tools&cName=Ratchets+%26+Sockets&sName=Sockets&prdNo=4&blockNo=4&blockType=L4www.harborfreight.com/blind-hole-bearing-puller-95987.htmlwww.harborfreight.com/10-piece-bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set-95853.htmlwww.cyclepedia.com/ |
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Post by auditech on Sept 30, 2011 0:55:04 GMT -5
Obviously I can't figure out how to attach a friggin html link either. Sorry. Hopefully you can figure it out.
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Post by cpete1 on Sept 30, 2011 7:15:22 GMT -5
Dane,
Thanks so much for the information. I printed the reply out and will research getting the tools. Don't worry about getting the link right. I should be able to figure that part out. Gotta friend who is ASE certified, (Not master, but certified) and will talk to him about the stuff via your description. You pretty much gave me all I need to get thru this. My new clutch arrived yesterday and I inspected it to see all was greased as it should be. I broke the other clutch trying to disassemble it but continued, to get a hand at how to properly service the next one. At least I'm familiar with the internals now regardless. Man, I can't thank you enough. I love the bike but was hoping for better support from CFmoto. Don't be so shy about posting , you're a wealth of information. Most everybody here loves their scoots.
Thank you again.
Chris
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Post by cpete1 on Oct 1, 2011 6:31:37 GMT -5
Dane,
Couple more questions. What size belt do you run on your Qlinks ? And also, grease on the rollers. Are you talking about the weights in the front pulley. The only grease I applied to the front pulley was on the shaft coming out if the engine. The center chrome piece that the belt rides on. I greased the internal splined area. I didn't put any lubricant on or near any of the weights.
Thanks for your help boss.
Chris
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