My Roketa Fiji 150 6,000 Mile Notes and Comments

[earlwb]

The battery can, for a little while, 110w total at 13.5v equals a current draw of about 8.25 amperes. A 7ah battery would likely run down in about 45 minutes. But the problem is the charging circuit cannot provide more than maybe 8 amperes to run the DC parts (tailight, turn signals, instrument cluster and lights, and CDI) and still have something left to charge the battery with. So you will likely have a dead battery after a while, hard to say how long before it goes dead. Also I don't know if the voltage regulator likes to provide max current to the battery for 100% of the time either. It would make for an interesting experiment, as you can run better quality wires for the lights.

What might be better is to maybe get a pair of 3w or 5w White Light LED's with their PWM driver and adapt it to run a 13.5 volts. Maybe even one of the dual or triple LED light units would be even better. The 5w LEDs only draw about 1 ampere or so at full brightness.
Maybe the 12v spotlights would make a good candidate:
www.omi-optika.hu/mv_termekek_en.htm

[gamedad]

Hey, Earl,
Glad to hear things are going (basicly) well.
I got a big problem, tho.
Yesterday, I was practicing for the Ca Skills test, round and round in circles.
Afterwards, the bike felt really wrong. No, I didn`t drop it, or anything that severe, but I think one of my front forks blew out.
These is no visible damage, or leaking, but she pulls hard right when i use the front brake, a little to the left when i use the rear, but not so drastic. In general, it feels real `squirelly` at best, and gets scary over any bumps.
My dealer hasn`t been real helpful in the `getting parts in a timely manner` department (surprise!). So I`d rather check alternatives that will get my bike safe in a shorter period of time.
Although it`s a `Magster`, I haven`t found any difference yet, between it and your Fiji.
Any ideas where I might find new (preferably better) forks? So far I`ve had little luck online, but I`m not expert at searching.
Thanks for any consideration.

Thanks:
Gamedad

[jusdoit]

Hey Gamedad;
I got a Mag 150...1025 miles....no front fork problem...However, the front brake is very sensitive...but not "Squirley" yet. Are the "disks" running free
Love the Mag after a 1000 miles.
Have Good One.........just "Bob" in NC

[earlwb]

I don't know of a source for the parts, but there should be someone around who could help.
One thought is to check your rear axle nut, check the front alxel nut too, as they have a tendency to loosen up a little when you least expect it. Also you might want to check your steering stem and ensure the large nut on the steering tube hasn't come loose on you. of course you have to pull the front handlebar cover panel off to get a looksee at it though.
You might carefully wiggle your wheels side to side to ensure that the wheel bearings haven't gone bad on you.

[gamedad]

Thanks, I checked the wheel nuts, and bearings, no sign of looseness.
I detected some slack in the center column, and had a cycle mechanic friend of mine help me adjust it. It was just a little bit of play, and the adjustment did`nt help the control problem.
Btw, So far, I haven`t hit anything, or done anything that should have caused damage.
I`m going to try to limp into the dealer tomorrow, he has a bike down for engine problems. I hope to have better luck than I had with the left brake handle housing, which I still have not received. The dealer ordered one for himself, so I can at least get that done.
He`ll test ride it, to confirm my diagnosis, and even offered a loaner bike, so I guess it`ll be ok <crosses fingers>.
Also, when putting the body parts back on I guess I pinched a wire, looks like I fried the turn signal relay <small problem>. Using a test light I have electricity into the relay with key on, but no voltage coming out, so I`m fairly sure that`s it.
I really wish I could get a heavier duty fork, but I haven`t had any luck searching, so far.
I went to a rally this weekend (before the steering problem) and had a great time, although I admit to some jealosy of the Lambrettas (Lambretti?) and rare Vespas that the club members had, lol. No one but me, however, had a discouraging word for my scooter.

I`ll report back as news develops;
Gamedad

[earlwb]

Yeah, so far online I only saw they had the front fork tree for sale, but not the fork tubes yet.
Unfortunately, trying to get some parts for Vespas or Lambrettas can be a real trick too.
So I wouldn't envy them too much.
its probably easier to get parts for the Chinese scooters.

heck many years ago, I broke the rear axle on my Harley Sportster. it took six months to get a replacement after I had officially ordered and paid for it. They never stocked spares as it was supposedly impossible to break a axle. But I guess they hadn't considered defective axles. Anyway I had to wait for the company to place a order for axles, for the factories to build more new Sportsters, and they'd include a extra one for me. So it took like forever to get that sucker.
Then how many of you had to order parts for a nice Italian motorcycle? Heck getting parts for them can be a hugely frustrating experience too.

[gamedad]

More info:
Took it to the `dealer`. This involved a 20km ride through town that I wouldn't wish on my worst enemy. I told him what it was doing, and suggested he take it out for spin. Yes, I am evil! He never even left the parking lot, it was clear he could feel that it wasn't right. He offered me a loaner bike, which wouldn't start, nor would the next one, or the next. Eventually he got a showroom display bike to run, and with much trepidation, he watched me ride into the sunset (actually, it was noon, but i can't resist the imagery).
It was very low on fuel, so I stopped to toss in a gallon. It wouldn't re-start. Eventually got her going, hauled butt to work. After work wouldn't start, put it on charger, still no good. Checked plug, cleaned it, still no spark. Called the `dealer`, I could actually hear the vein in his forehead pulse as I told him his scooter was DOA.
I got a ride home from my boss....<fast forward to today>...
Tried the scooter after work, it lives! Left it to idle while I finished my paperwork, had a very nice ride home.
At this point it seems that the handling problem on my scoot was caused by slightly loose mounting bolts on the right front fork. This allows the front wheel geometry to change at random, which, I can tell you, is NOT fun!
Hopefully, I get my bike back tomorrow (after the `dealer`s wife test rides it). I hope this indicates faith in her test-riding skills, and not the level of life-insurance coverage?

Good Riding!
Gamedad

[earlwb]

That is good to know, thanks.
I forgot about the fork tree clamps being loose letting the fork tubes move around.

[earlwb]

I ran across a source for metric flange head bolts and nuts in anyone is interested.
store.nutsandbolts.com/meallpr.html
I usually just use the nuts and bots i can get at ACE Hardware, as they have a really good assortment there.

[earlwb]

At 4,600 miles I decided to fabricate a locking plate to help ensure the stupid exhaust pipe nuts don't come loose on me again.
My homemade locking plate.


How I mounted it was I used two standard 6mm nuts to lock down the exhaust pipe to the engine. Next I screwd on the two 6mm coupler nuts on top of the other nuts. That sort of double locks them on. It also gives me a little thread length on the coupler nuts for the locking plate. Then I put on the locking plate using two short 6mm hex bolts and a couple of washers and lockwashers as well. before I put on the locking plate I pre-bent down two tabs so they would be near the coupler nuts. After putting it together I finsihed pushing the tabs up aganst the coupler nuts.
So hopefully the exhaust nuts won't come loose on me anymore. But it remains to be seen of course.

[1eugene445]

Earl, somewhere in your thread you mentioned that you changed out some bulbs. My question is, how do you get to the two headlight bulbs? Do you just pry off the lenses from the bodywork or is there some access door somewhere?

Gene
Roketa Aruba (same as Fiji) 150

[earlwb]

To gain access to the headlights, you need to remove the front body panel. There are some screws here and there that need to be unscrewed, then the panel pops off. Don't forget to look under the tunnel of the front panel just above the fender.
Now with the panel loose, you can unplug the two headlight wire connectors and the running lights (the two little bulbs).
Now you look on the inside or back of the panel at the two headlight sockets, and you'll see that there are a couple three screws holding the sockets in place. Unscrew them and pull the headlight bulb and socket out.
It is easy to replace it then.
Do not touch the glass part of the bulb. Clean the glass with acetone to ensure there aren't any fingerprints on it. Then reverse the assembly process to put everything back together.

Changing out the rear tailight bulb or turn signals sucks, as you have to remove the rear fender assembly to get access to the bulbs from the inside back of the fender assembly.

The front turn signals are accessed by removing the front handlebar panel, several screws there to unscrew. Plus you'll have to remove the two side cover pieces too. They use a simple plastic push pin, not a screw on the top screw on each side piece.
You can then give the turnsignal bulb socket a quarter turn to pop it out.

[earlwb]

Well today, at about 4695 miles, was a somewhat exciting one. On my way home the CVT drive belt let go and shredded itself into a huge pile of bits and pieces and a large pile of fuzzy threads and rubber dust. I noticed that the CVT drive cover seemed to be unusually hot, so much so I had to use my gloves to mess with it. Sure was a good thing I was prepared for the possiblity of the drive belt breaking on me. Albeit it was a little messy, but it was uneventful in fixing the problem while out on the road. Fortunately the traffic was light in the evening and not a rush hour mob.

The first belt a Bando OEM belt stretched out and got thinner pretty quickly. I had about 3750 miles on it before I replaced it. So I replaced it with a KING's Kevlar belt. Well I can safely state that there was no Kevlar in that belt. All those little tiny threads in the belt plies were easily broken when you pulled on them.
So now I am running a GATES belt as i was keeping it for a spare in case this happened.
I also have another Gates belt which I'll put under the seat as a spare again too.

In hindsight the front air intake screen may have become partially blocked with dust or debris causing the insides to heat up a lot. I removed the wire screewn and just left the plastic frame on there so it souldn't plug up so easily. But if the belt was starting to go, it may have heated up the insides from friction too.
Anyway, it was not a Kevlar reinforced belt as far as I can tell. The last I remember is that kevlar threads are very tough and do not break easily.

[jusdoit]

Hey Earl;
Been looking for Bando dealer to get a spare...Seems that 3750 miles on your OEM was pretty good but you switched to Gates 835. Why
Got 1200 miles on "Magster" 150 now and doing better than I ever expected.
.......just "Bob" in NC

[earlwb]

Because the crappy KING's fake kevlar belt shredded on me and the Gates was the spare belt.
I also have a second Gates belt that now serves as a spare for the previous one.
I figure Gates has to make better belts than all the other junk belts coming out of China.
The Bando belt was sort of OK, but it stretched over an inch slowing the scooter down a lot.

[earlwb]

I thought I'd post some pics about what one does to change out a headlight bulb should the need arise.
First you need to remove the front panel, so you can access the headlight bulbs from the inside.
There are six screws holding the panel on on my scooter, so I assume it is probably the same on many others like mine.
Four screws on the rear of the front panel.


Two screws under the nose.


Then slide the front panel forward slightly to slip off the panel. Note the tabs and slots on the sides.


The headlight bulb is mounted on a scoket under the larger rubber cover.
You use a magnetized screwdriver to unscrew the two screws and locking tabs holding the socket in place. Then slip out the socket and bulb as a unit. being extra careful to not touch the glass on the bulb, replace it. There is a rather pitful alignment notch and tab in the hole, so align the bulb as you put it back in and screw back in the locking tabs and screws.




Since we have the panel off, here is what the panel covers up for you.


If your scooter is exhibiting signs of a loose headset. You can tighten the locking nuts as shown here.


I didn't notice this rusty bolt sticking out until I was processing the photos today.
I don't know what it does at this time. it'll be something to check out the next time I pull off the front panel. Apparently it hasn't been a problem so far.

[scooterollie]

Earl;
The frames on Chinese scoots are often used to have different style panels and will have the odd stud, nut, etc.

[earlwb]

I think you are correct. It was probably for a different body style. Zooming in on the hi-res photos shows that nothing was tightened up against it (like a washer and a nut).

[Deleted]

Hey Earl I really love your thread! Would you mind telling us how to change the ignition coil. Also if possible pictures would be great. Thanks.

[earlwb]

On my scooter the Ignition coil is located here as shown by the arrow in the photo. You need to lift up the seat, and remove the two nuts and 2 bolts holding the under the seat tub in place. You'll have to temporarily remove the gas cap and after you lift out the tub, put the gas cap back on temporarily.
The ignition coil unit is based on the (COP) Coil on Plug technology, so it uses a high driving voltage, so it can have a really small coil inside.
It is a small unit. There is a thin rubber cover that you gingerly slide off the coil, as it is fragile.
There are two color coded wires, so you note which wire goes to which connector. The factory may change the colors of the wires from time to time. Then you simply unscrew the old coil and pull the spark plug boot off of the spark plug on the engine. Slip in the new coil by reversing the process. The Bando racing coils need to have the small mounting hole drilled out slightly larger to mount them back on. If your old coil spark plug cap is OK, unscrew it and replace the Bando spark plug cap with the old cap. The spark plug wire actuallt screws into the coil and spark plug cap. When you unscrew it, you will see a sheet metal screw inside the cap or coil. The Bando spark plug cap is too long and too wide to work correctly. Now you could carve it down with a X-Acto knife if you want, but it is easier to resue the old spark plug cap. If this is the first time you messed with the coil, they usually have a nylon cable tie holding the spark plug wire, so you'll need to cut the cable tie to get the whole ignition coil out easily.
The OEm wire connector ends on the coil wires aren't very good, and can loosen up fast over time. I replaced the two connector ends on the two wires with better ones I had on hand. A loose connector makes a bad contact on the coil blade pins causing problems when the engine is running. They should be snug and not loose.

[scooterollie]

Earl;
Is that the O.E. gas filter?

[Deleted]

thank you so much earl for your quick response. Another question is how exactly do I connect the other end of the coil (wires, not spark plug)? And how do I remove this end on the old ignition coil? thanks.

[earlwb]

scooterollie, yes that is what the OEM fuel filter looks like.

adnasaleen, when you slip the thin rubber cover off, you will see two wires that plug into the connector pins on the coil. You slip them off and back on as needed. The coil body is mounted to the frame with a screw. On mine I used a phillips screwdriver to unscrew the screw.
This is what the coil looks like close up,

[scooterollie]

Earl;
Only asked because i was going to suggest changing it out but you have probably already done so!

[earlwb]

That pic was taken last December right after I first pulled the tub out. I was photographing everything for posterity. Yeah I had gone through and replaced all the fuel lines and vaccuum lanes way back then. The fuel filter actually didn't look too bad, so i reused it. it hasn't caused any problems so far. My scoot came with the fuel line not connected to the carb. So you have to pull the tub out to get to it anyway. You can see in the pic where I had moved the OEM fuel line up in preparation for replacing.

[scooterollie]

Earl;
I like the NAPA Gold #3011 filter. It is larger and less restrictive than the O.E. filters. As you probably already know, lots of folks have had leakage failures with the O.E. Chinese filters. Comes apart at the glued joints w/o warning. I did the opposite on my last two scoots, replacing the filter right away but kept the O.E. hoses. All my Chinese scoot hoses have been OK - thick and decent rubber quality. Only rubber parts on my Bali that have deteriorated are the dirt caps on the brake bleeds and the rubber caps that cover the bolt head and nut on the front wheel. My Bali is almost 1 1/2 years old and the Fuji 150 I sold to a friend is 2 years old.

[earlwb]

Many rubber things on my scooter seem to disintegrate. Must be that the the smoggy Texas air is bad for rubber.
The rubber tire valves are dangerous, i suggest replacing them as soon as possible.
I also added an extra layer of rubber tubing on the fuel line where it rubs up against the frame near the carb. That looked like a problem waiting to happen too.

[Deleted]

that you so much earl.

[earlwb]

My scooter is still hanging in there, it just passed the 5,000 mile mark and it is still going strong. Although I did have a scary moment when going in to work. As I was riding along, I felt a clunk and heard a loud pinging ringing sound, like a chunk of metal had snapped off or something. I stopped and looked all over the scooter but didn't see anything amiss. So I must have run over a piece of metal on the road.

[swampsniper]

When Gates or Bando start making a Kevlar belt, I'll get another Kevlar belt. It doesn't matter what the cords are made of if the rubber isn't worth a damn.
This brings up a point. Why don't Gates and Bando make Kevlar belts? Could it be they know something that we don't?