My Roketa Fiji 150 6,000 Mile Notes and Comments

[djmarc]

u know i was riding it today and the lights just came on! haha
could it be because the battery doesnt have enough charge? will take off the handlebar front panel to check for loose wires tomo

cheers Earl!

[earlwb]

The headlights do not use the battery, they only run off the alternator when the engine is running.
Sure sounds like something is loose someplace for sure.

[jusdoit]

Hey DJMarc;
Had the same prob early on with my Scoot...had 5 months. Headlites on one ride, off the next & sometimes just popped on when I depressed left brake lever...Strange & confusing. I learned thru Earl's and other posts that I have...TWO separate Electrical Systems. From your last post about a "Low Battery", I'm not sure you have the two systems separated in your mind and what each controls. You have an Alternator (magneto) that generates electricity when the engine is RUNNING...This circuit puts juice to the Headlites & Taillite-Brakelite once the engine is running and is wired to be "On" by DOT directive...Motorcycles & Scoots.
The Battery Circuit controls the rest of your Electrical World...including the starter.
Ah, yes, I had to take off the front handle bar panel and find the "Bad Electrical Connection" to the headlites. That was 1st. month...been good since.
Have a Good One.......just "Bob" in North Carolina

[RetroAJ]

earlwb said:

Yeah the headlights only work when the engine is running. They are running directly off the alternator and use AC current and not DC. The tailight also only works when the engine is running as well. The turn signals are still DC, so if the engine is off you can use the hazard switch and have them blink off and on. The headlights and tailight are both on the same AC circuit.

Actually that method of running the lights is pretty nice as you get all the battery power for starting the engine. On my Harley if the battery is weak, you are SOL.

I just checked my Vintage just for S & G's. The head light and tail light come on when I turn on the key. Even with the 55 watt halogen bulb, it doesn't affect the starter in any way I can tell. The light doesn't dim at a stop or get brighter at high rpm. It is the same brightness all the time.

Would this be a total DC system?

*A J*

[gamedad]

Update, Day 28 (It's easy to keep track if you buy your scooter on the 1st of the month):
Today, about 1/2 mile from my workplace, suddenly the scooter began to make a sucky sound. Not the usual weed-wacker uzz, but a new suckier sound.
Remembering Earl's earlier post, the 1st thing I checked on my lunch break was the intake hose from the airbox, bingo!
After a bit of exploring to find which is the best panel to get access, I had it fixed in about 20 minutes.
Since my scooter seems to be a twin in all respects to Earl's, I'm going out now to buy 2 coils, lol
I have 700 Km on her, and I have yet to get the 300 mile nail in the tire, though, perhaps my scooter is defective in that regard?
I've been using the kickstart now and then, just for practice, and I wonder if there is supposed to be a spring to return the `pedal` to it's `stored` position?

Well, Happy Motoring!

Gamedad

[earlwb]

retroaj:
Older scooters used the battery and generator or alternator with a rectifier to provide DC power for the lights. When the engine RPM drops below a certain RPM then the battery supplies the extra needed power for the lights. When the RPM is above a certain point the alternator or generator provides the power for the lights and excess power is used to charge the battery.

gamedad,
Yeah there is no spring return for the little pedal arm. You have to manually move it in or out. I'd give it drop or two of oil from time to time as it tends to rust inside the joint there.
Yeah the airfilter box is plastic so the clamp on the tube causes the airbox to scrink a little at the clamping point. It comes loose then.
Glad you caught it without having the hassles of finding out if engine power drops on you.
Way to go.

[کíŋ]

earlwb said:

...Older scooters used the battery and generator or alternator with a rectifier to provide DC power for the lights. When the engine RPM drops below a certain RPM then the battery supplies the extra needed power for the lights....

Hi Earl, I was wondering if you or anyone else has heard or tried one of these:

CURRENT STABILIZER

MRP have them on their website and I recently saw a similar one on eBay

The blurb is "This Original Current GY6 performance stabilizer. Connects to the positive and negative terminals of the battery. Stabilizes the current allowing for quicker firing during high RPM's. Also, reduces fuel consumtion by increasing the burnng efficiency! Use in addition to coil, race spark plug, magneto and other items for maximum electrical performance. Helps on some models if you have weak lights during idle. Better racing performance on the GY6 engines 125cc/150cc/170cc/200cc. Improves overall electrical performance."

I would love to know if it works as the dip in lights around 1800RPM's is quite noticeable on my scoot.

[earlwb]

I honestly do not know what it does or how it works. I also don't know of anyone in racing circles that ever used one either.
Basically just get a good 12v battery would do the trick.

All the voltage and current regulators that I know of are in series with the circuit not in parallel. So I do not know what this device does. It could be a empty case as far as I know, or it really has something inside.
Now a voltage stabilizer may still be a misnomer, the devices may simply be a RFI filter consisting of a couple of inductors and a capacitor or two that filter out various high frequency components at higher RPMS. Reducing some of the voltage spikes and spurious signals on the 12v circuits may be useful in improving how other electrical devices work. But really the car and motorcycle engineers have thought of this too, and put in all sorts of extra circuits to protect their electronic devices already. Albeit in the Chinese electronic devices, who knows, everyone seems to be cutting corners and seeing how far they can go with saving money.
There is another even more sophisticated one here:
www.racinglab.com/apsugrst4.html I would love to open this one up to see what is inside.
and here is another one:
yuhin-com--inc.tradenote.net/product/120014-XCS-/-Ground
this is interesting, here is a voltage stabilizer that plugs into the cigarette lighter plug
www.racinglab.com/sun-hvs-pocket-195.html
and yet here is this one too
zildrake.fotopages.com/?entry=651472
now it does show how to hook up one of these things.
and still a three wire model too
www.aj-racing.com/catalog/product.php?productid=1116
Plus and minus and chassis ground I expect.

Now one car expert stated:
I'm not sure why you need a voltage stabalizer on your car? Most all components already use a zener stabalizer if they need one!! The only critical component on most cars is the computer, and it is already regulated to +5v -5v and 12v, so using an other regulator will make no difference.The voltage from your alternator is also regulated to about 14v when it is charging properly and only under very high electrical loads, at low idle will your voltage drop to around 12v ,or your Battery needs to be replaced. I wouldn't waste my money on a stabalizer and would buy a good battery instead.

Someone else stated this:
as shady as these may sound, and what i originally thought of them, upon closer inspection they may actually have some merit.

really the term they use, ''voltage stabilizer'', is just something that is generic that is given by the salesman with no electrical knowledge.

it seems all these things consist of are a bunch of capacitors. they say to put these in series with the battery i believe, so it would effectively be in parallel with the rest of the cars components. two possible advantages (from a theory perspective):

1) due to the nature that voltage across a capacitor can NOT change instantaneously, then yes technically it will keep the voltage that each component in the circuit sees ''stable'' since v1=v2=...=v for components in parallel.

2) another matter i have thought about is electrical noise (RF interference). i don't really know too much about this, but capacitors can be used in a circuit to actually reduce electrical noise. it mentions it briefly here:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_noise

HOWEVER, i am still skeptical about these since they seem to be heavily marketed from these ebay and low-grade discount retailers...some testing would have to be done to really see what they do and make sure there are no negative effects...

Now this guy might have the right thought on it:
I read that although the car already has a unit that does the same thing, this unit further enhances the voltage through out the vehicle. The readings sent from the different units to the ECU could be in accurate at times and fluctuates. This basically blocks the vehicle from performing at its peak. With the unit, the voltage throughout the vehicle is consistent.
Here's a link to the product, any comment would be deeply appreciated.
www.intakeone.com/Denso/SunHVSGT.htm

Ok, here's my take.

I would guess its a capacitor. A very large capacitor. A cap is essentially a device for storing electrical energy, sort of like a battery if you will. Typical uses on low frequency (i.e. next to D.C.) are as a compensation for current draws that happen quickly, such as a car stereo.

In this case, say your wing-equipped, slammed, Honda Accord just got fitted with a new kick-butt stereo. Because you overspent on the wing, you could not afford to spend another few bucks for a quality replacement for the OEM battery that is now going on 9 years old. In this case, you make the decision to order essentially $10.00 worth of parts for $250, excuse me, on sale for $225.00, because some "friends" on the internet indicated it produced a prodigious 10 extra Horsepower. Good move. You now basically have an additional regulator in the supply so that there is no obstruction to the thumping bass that you so desire to annoy the old git in the apartment at the corner of your unit.

Of course the truth is you just got ripped.

But naturally, I could be wrong; this is just another post on the internet. Good luck.

[کíŋ]

Wow, that was a great post Earl and I truly appreciate it, you really put some time into your answer (karma to you).

I agree about your recommendation to install a better battery.

The cheaper batteries that come as stock on many Chinese scooters tend not to have longevity that one would hope for and I suspect that a quality replacement battery with perhaps a higher amperage will go a lot further towards eliminating the noticeable dip in headlight brightness during low idle.

Worst case, I'd at least gain better starting qualities and longer periods of charge retention. And most importantly, without adding another element (like the current stabilizer) to the wiring, then later have to troubleshoot.

I also just noticed in their blurb "Use in addition to coil, race spark plug, magneto and other items for maximum electrical performance", well perhaps that's why they can claim that it "helps with weak lights during idle" - wouldn't the other upgrades they recommend result in a stronger current during idle anyway?

[earlwb]

In looking at the Bando Racing Coils which are supposed to be made in Taiwan.
I noticed that the Spark Plug caps are longer and more thick than the OEM spark plug caps.
i27.photobucket.com/albums/c163/earlwb/scooter/SparkPlugCaps.jpg
The racing cap is more thick but also extends down deeper too.
So my theory at the moment, is that the racing cap doesn't go down into the spark plug hole on the engine head all the way. This causes a slight gap to occur from the cap connector on the inside to the spark plug tip. That causes the high voltage spark to have to jump two air gaps. This higher voltage then causes the internal insulation on the coil to start to fail by breaking down and shorting out.
So I decided to put on the OEm spark plug cap instead, and the OEM cap fits just right. So I'll see how that goes. I suppose one could use a X-Acto knife and cut down the racing cap to fit better too. But I opted to not try.

Another bummer is the BMW COP coil unit that I got is a lot more larger than I expected. It is too long to plug onto the spark splug with the body on at this time. Plus it's length a dn weight is such that I can see if putting a strain on the ceramic insulator on the spark plug itself. So unless something changes that makes it more possible, like me finding a smaller COP unit, I won't be trying it out anytime soom.

I also got a bit of humor from the BANDO coil package stating it is a COP design., when the coil is about 12 inches away from the spark plug cap at the end of a spark plug wire.

Anyway the COP coil units would likely work they as use the same types of high voltage CDI units. The internal coil DC resistance is the same. The problem is finding one to fit and clear the body or frame, as the engine moves up and down as you go over bumps and stuff. Plus not pout a undo strain on the spark plug insulator too.

[earlwb]

I forgot to mention that the two 1/4" bayonet connectors were extremely loose on the coil pins. So I had to replace them. I tried scrunching them down a little with a pair of pliers but the female bayonet connectors are made of a very soft alloy and just doesn't tighten up.
Thus replacing them with new ones was the only choice.
What happens is if the connector pins are really loose it can cause misfires off the coil too.
The rubber cover for covering up the end of the coil to make it look nicer and to help keep water oof the coil pins is rotting apart quite fast. I'll have to find a replacement for it somewhere.

As a side note, when I was at the auto-parts store today, I spied a small 4" diameter paper filter element in their performance car air filter section that just might be the thing as a replacement air filter for the Fiji 150. But at the time it was part of a full air filter kit for a car carb, so I didn't get to check it out closer. it looks like a chrome filter can that we used to put on 2 barrel carbs in our cars ages ago. It looks like this crankcase breather filter except it is about 5" OD and about 4"ID and about 2" high. www.shop.com/IRON_CROSS_UNIVERSAL_AIR_BREATHERS-17120199-24047987-p!.shtml?sourceid=3

The K&N filter like this one will fit quite well too:
www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=RK-3201
It is a little large on the inside but it will work fine. You may have to put a thin strip of window foam tape insulation on the top of it and maybe the bottom if needed. But no problems that I can see.

[tp555]

Got a question for you. The instrument panel has a clear light on the left side (center).I think it was supposed to be the oil change warning light.Does it ever come on ? Don't want to open up the dash just to trace down the wires. regards.

[earlwb]

I think it was wishful thinking as I never found a oil pressure sending unit ( a oil pressire sensor) on the 150cc GY6 engine.
I suspect the dashboard is used on something else, that might have a oil sending unit on it.

It might be interesting to put one in, but I'd have to have a GY6 engine I could take apart, etc to check it out on the best location to drill and tap for a sending unit. It would have to be a low pressure unit, probably like what they use on Harley Sportsters.

Maybe one could be put in on the oil drain plug, maybe using a oil cooler or oil filter kit would allow for one to put in a oil pressure sending unit more easily too.

[WarrenS]

If it is an oil change light it is run off the odometer. It could also be a cell phone light or something like that.

[earlwb]

Humm I must have been dislyxic or something. "Oil Chainge Light", yeah that would have to run off the odometer. But how would one be able to reset it?

[bob]

Earl,
I installed a SenDec www.sendec-products.com/content/view/140/156/ unit on my scoot. Have to reset it with a magnetic stick every 25 hours when it says CHG OIL.

Bob

[earlwb]

That is a pretty good idea for sure. Thanks

[earlwb]

In the Tips category I discussed making a muffler adapter for using a Harley muffler on a scooter. These would be the restrictive by Harley standards mufflers, But I suppose a straight pipe with a slip in baffle would work too.
I just got my four 1/4" thick, 4" square metal plates with the 1 and 3/4" hole in the middle in today. i27.photobucket.com/albums/c163/earlwb/scooter/MufflerAdapterFlange.jpg
I was using a magic marker to see how the exhaust pipe flange will fit. So there is no problem lining up a flange and drilling and tapping the three holes. Anyway the tube fits OK being a little snug, but a coupe of raps from my big brass antique hammer will take care of that no problem. i27.photobucket.com/albums/c163/earlwb/75fabc42.jpg

Earlier I happened to see that "Auto-Zone" auto parts stores here in my area also have lots of exhaust pipe adapter tubing for fixing up cars. They happen to have a 1 and 3/4" short tube that would work well too for $1.49 each. it is regular steel exhaust pipe tubing and is more thin than the 1/4" thick, 1 and 3/4" tube I happen to have at home. The exhaust tubing weighs less than the 1/4" thick tubing that I have.

So this weekend I get to practice my stick welding skills.


So since I only need one of these plates. I can work out a deal if someone wants to get one. The 1 and 3/4" tubing is easy to get at Auto-zone and one can have it welded or brazed onto the metal plate. It is a lot easier to mail it out flat too.

The idea is to weld on a short 3 to 4 inch long piece of tubing to the plate and then use a slip on muffler that you clamp onto the adapter. The stock exhaust pipe on a Gy6 engine is angled upwards at a angle, so this keeps the angle the same.

[earlwb]

Well at about 4160 miles, a new problem just came up. I just noticed it when I pulled in at work, after getting my lunch out of the trunk box.
The package rack just came loose.
The rear cross bracket broke in one place where it bolts onto the frame broke off and one weld broke where it is more or less welded to the package rack. This is a length of metal that is about 18 inches long about 3/8" wide and about 3/16" thick. I suppose it might be consider steel but who knows.
So this weekend I get to either reweld it back together or fabricate a new one and weld it on.
I can see where the welds on these things might break but not right across the center of the hole where the mounting bolt goes.
Good thing I got some bungie cords I can use to keep it from moving around too much on the way home tonight.

[jusdoit]

Hey Earl;
First, let me say how fortunate I feel having your Posts these 5 months with my Magster. My education & confidence with my "Chinese 150"...950 miles now... is well beyond what I ever expected, thanks to your efforts in our forum. Again, THANKS, PARTNER.

I have done "all the basics" but have ignored learning much about the CVT other than the belt size. Read posts about "overheating" and air flow thru filter on front of cover & vent in back....several suggested drilling holes in back for better air flow....So, what do I really need to know here
Have a Good One, Earl........just Bob in NC

[earlwb]

I got home so I can post a couple of photos of what broke on my rear rack.

It appears the cheapie weld that they did at the factory had broke a while back as it has a little rust on it. That probabyl contributed to the broken strap seen in the next pic.
i27.photobucket.com/albums/c163/earlwb/scooter/Broken_weld.jpg

The left bolt mount point on the metal support strut broke off at the bolt hole.
i27.photobucket.com/albums/c163/earlwb/scooter/BrokenMetal.jpg

justdoit,
Well some CVT case covers aren't as good at allowing air to flow as others. But the 150cc engines tend to be much better at cooling the belt than many of the 50cc engines. here people tend to run at WOT on the 50cc scooters, so the belts tend to have a short life as they don't get good air flow. The 150cc engines though are better at it, plus one normally doesn't ride a 150cc WOT all the time.
But if you look at the racing PFS CVT cover here for example:
cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=250080220491&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=015
You can get ideas as to how to open up a CVT cover for more air cooling.
The disadvantage is it allows rain and crud to get in more, so it depends on whether you like to ride in the rain or not.
Many Harley Davidson custom bikes have a huge primary belt drive unit on them, and they aren't particularly bothered by having the parts out in the open. But they usually don't ride their custom bikes in the rain though.

[jusdoit]

Hey Earl;.........thanks for CVT info...will check filter occasionally.
Read a number of posts about our ABS system...many suggest "disconnecting" the system because front braking will work better ? I have no problem with mine working just fine...so, whats with those suggestions...I like the "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" mentality

Have a Good One.......just Bob in NC

[earlwb]

If it works for you then don't mess with it.
I like the "if it ain't broke then don't fix it" method too.
Some people just cannot help themselves, they have to get in there and mess with things in that elusive pursuit of improved performance. But as you have probably figured out, it usually results in causing more problems than fixing them.

But if someone want to mess with it. It basically entails unscrewing the little pressure valve thingie on the end of the front caliper brake unit. Then figuring out how to plug up the hole with something. Then you have to bleed the brake system to get the air out. Which is where many people run into problems as one tends to have a heck of a time trying to get the air out.

I suggest using two to three cans of brake fluid, and never let the reservoir run less than half empty. use a clean container and a rubber yube extension to collect the brake fluid as it is expelled, then you can reuse it again too.
If you have plastic covers over the handlebars, remove the plastic cover or covers to ensure that no brake fluid gets onto the plastic as the brake fluid will eat plastic very rapidly.

[earlwb]

Anyway, I repaired the rear luggage rack for the scooter.
Here is a pic of when I was testing out the rack to make sure it fitted Ok before grinding down the excess weld crap and slag and painting that portion of the rack again.

For some odd reason, if a part wasn't long enough, they would build a layer of weld material to fill in the gap. The support strut is like 1/4" below the rack frame. I drew arrows where they used the same method to fill in the gaps where the cross pieces were too short too. Sheesh. So when I made the new support strut, I added a little extra to it so the rack would rest directly on the strut and I could weld right to the two parts like one is supposed to weld.
Anyway before anyone says anything, yes the welds look bad but it is mostly slag there as I am using a cheap stick welder that uses 1/16" rods and they leave lots of slag behind.
I do need to get a better welder one of these days. But it isn't like I use the thing all that often.

So you might want to check your luggage rack closely and see if the support strut welds are crap and get it fixed right away before it lets go on you too. Honestly I didn't know one could bridge an air gap with a welder before on two pieces of metal that aren't touching I learn something new everyday. The problem is that welded gap is all welding rod material and very brittle and more likely to break. Plus the original support strut is likely to fail at the bolt holes as after they drilled out the holes there isn't a lot of metal left supporting it there.

For those who don't know how one does this, I won't teach anyone how to weld, but I first used a portable grinder to cut off the leftover support strut and ground down the excess weld crap pieces sticking up. Then I used the old support strut as a guide and a big vise and a big brass hammer to bend a new length of steel that is a little wider than the original to size. I then marked and drilled the two holes for the bolts. I then figer tighted the bolts with the stut on the scooter, and slipped on the rack to sit on the strut better. I then "very carefully" as there is a gas tank there tack welded the strut in place. I then removed the unit and completed the welding away from the scooter. I then checked the fit again. I then cleaned it all up and ground down the excess from the rack and then painted the areas that were cleaned prior to welding. I like to use a portable band saw for cutting metal as it sure as heck beats a hack saw hands down.

Now I did drill and tap one of the square plates and welded on a 3" chunk of 1.75" tubing to it, but the welds look horrible so I won't be posting a picture of it up close. I'll have to see if I can use someone else's better welder to to a better job on the other pieces.

[earlwb]

I forgot to mention how I repaired the shorted out turn signal socket. First trying to get one of these might be a difficult proposition, so I decided to fix it.
Here is the broken light socket. The center hot wire where it is crimped onto the center pin somehow managed to touch the washer used on the common wire. That caused the wire to heat up and burn the plastic insulator disc. I then reassembled the light socket and reinstalled it in the scooter and it works great again.


Then here is the new plastic insulator that I fabricated. I basically took a child's play money dime, and drilled a hole in the center for the connector pin and then carefully sanded down the outer edge until it fit into the light socket OK. The light socket is tapered slightly towards the bottom, so you need to take that into account when fitting it to size. I used a small dab of GOOP adhesive to help ensure the contact pin doesn't move or slip out of place. of course you need to wait a few hours for the glue to cure.


Here is the contact pin with three layers of heat shrink tubing on it, to ensure it doesn't short out anytime soon.


Then here is the repaired light socket all reassembled waiting to be reinstalled into the scooter.


Oh yeah, here is the odd three wire turn signal flasher. It is mounted on the center of the handlebar under the front handlebar cover panel.


Last but not least, is a pic of the front brake reservoir with the front panel opened up so you can see it. If you mess with the brake reservoir, remove the front panel, as the brake fluid will eat the plastic almost instantaenously if it gets spilled on the plastic.

[earlwb]

I was studying the differences and problems that the GY6 exhaust gaskets have.
First the little round copper gasket is basically useless. It compresses easily causing the exhaust pipe flange to loosen causing it to leak and you to lose the exhaust pipe nuts.
Second the oval exhaust gasket is better, but after a while it burns out on you, that is when you discover you can still lose a nut on the exhaust pipe anyway. I managed to catch this gasket shown before it disintegrated all the way and burned up on me.
So third is to fabricate your own exhaust gasket. I used the automotive blank exhaust gasket sheet you can get from Auto-Zone or other places. I simply carved it out using a pair of small tin snip sissors, and a dremel. Now the automotive exhaust gasket material has a thin steel sheet sandwiched in between a fibrous carbon composite material that is much more heat resistant. The sheet I got is enough to last a lifetime if I had to make a lot of thse things. it is made by ROL Gaskets (www.rolmtg.com) 12"x28"x1/16" in size, MA100 (FP-FP-2499).
The other exhaust gasket blank sheet I have is 12"x12'by1/16" in size made my Mr.Gasket.
So far after a couple of weeks the new gasket is working Ok and the exhaust pipe nuts haven't come loose on me either.

Here is a pic of me fiddling around with ways to fabricate a new exhaust gasket by hand.

[tp555]

The other problem is that the area of the exhaust port that the gasket touches has a cast finish.
There are fins from the casting mold that rise up.So a good contact surface with the gasket doesn't
happen.I measured .020" of up and down on my head.Machining smooth isn't an option unless you
happen to have the head off your machine.I suggest using some sealer on the gasket on head side.It might help.
wm14.inbox.com/thumbs/27_3c442_b5b25bd_tn.jpg.thumb
This is a new head I ordered.The casting quality on this is 3x better then whats on my scoot.Unfortunately I will have to return it if I can't find a non erg valve cover. Note the slight ridges from the casting that match the fin pattern.Also the hole is round and concentric.Not so on the original on the scoot.

[jusdoit]

Hey Earl........hope all is well.
Spark Plug # for our GY6 150 engines...have seen several different numbers for NGK plugs. Have not looked at mine since engine running good...But...it's time to get ready.
Have a Good One.......just "Bob" in NC

[earlwb]

Justdoit, I am running NGK CR7HSA spark plugs on my GY6 150cc engine.

Yeah, I noticed the slight casting ridges too, but the gasket has enough thickness and squish area to seal it up OK fortunately. What I didn't like was the Oval gaskets are simple resin filled fibre gasket material instead of being a real exhaust gasket. The Oval gasket is a nice pretty blue color when new. But after you use it for a few miles it turns brownish grey, and I suspect, it starts to burn up and deterorate. They could at the very least have provided a thin steel compressible ring on the inside so hot exhaust gases can't burn through quite so easily.
But I guess that wouldn't work out either as they machined in a groove for the round gasket which if you don't use the round gasket, it makes the oval gasket even more thin on the outer edges of the inner circle cutout.

[jusdoit]

Hey Earl.........need your thoughts.
I want to mount a couple of auxillary lights on front of scoot...looked at many at Auto Parts stores. Today, while in Walmart, looked at their lites...they had a many in a box of two lites for trucks & trailers. Liked one called...Fog Light with blue tint lense...but they are 55 watt Halagen bulbs. I want to wire same directly to the battery with push button switch...BUT...can the battery handle 2 55w bulbs.
Have a Good One........just Bob in NC