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Post by leeinark on Feb 28, 2011 14:56:28 GMT -5
Anybody know if there is an aftermarket stator for a Magnum 300 that provides a higher level of charging than a stock system. Here's why I ask...I posted a voltage thread a while back and initially it looked like I have a stator that is really charging well. However if I ride for a while (10 miles or more) it appears the voltage available from my battery slowly siphons off while I'm riding (which makes no sense because the stator should be charging and running the electrics). To a point where the scooter will die when I stop. I believe I either need a better battery or a better performing stator. Maybe I have heat soak in the regulator...anybody have a comment?? Oh yeah before you ask the Valves have been adjusted, high performance ignition coil, iridium plug, electric fuel pump, fuel is pumping well, air cleaner is clean and all kinds of spark to the plug. Other than the above problem it runs great. Once it dies if I let it sit and cool down I can get it cranked and limp home. Put the battery charger on and all is well. Maybe I just need a better battery? This is very puzzling for me. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
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Post by edfr on Feb 28, 2011 16:22:02 GMT -5
Leeinark,
It could just be your Rectifier/Regulator that when it gets hot it stops chargeing. See if your Rectifier/Regulator is mounted where it gets a lot of heat from either the exhaust and or motor, if so move it away from the heat. Do you see your Charging Meter start to drop on the instrument panel?
Lefty
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Post by mike6736 on Feb 28, 2011 22:08:46 GMT -5
Lee, pull the neg cable while running, if runs get that battery tested, may be pulling all your amps Is a fast test
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Post by leeinark on Mar 1, 2011 8:32:11 GMT -5
Mike/Lefty thx, will do. On another note, Ironically I found that my BRAND NEW high performance ignition coil was popping off the spark plug when I ride. so I tightened the cap with a pair of needle nose and a screw driver. Ordered a digital dash mounted voltage gauge on saturday so I can monitor the charging system. I think I'm also going to invest in a wideband AFR gauge too (kind of expensive though) narrowband is not informative nor responsive enough. I think wideband is the only way I'm going to be able to see if the fuel flow is consistent across the RPM bad. Thx fella's for the great ideas!!
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Post by leeinark on Mar 1, 2011 10:44:35 GMT -5
Ok guys here are the results: Before starting battery read 12.78 volts. Started scoot and reading went to 14.60. Disconnected neg lead and trike still ran fine but if I turned on headlights bike died. Reconnected battery started again but this time with lights on. Disconnected battery (with lights still on) and the trike ran just fine but if I added an additional load (ie brite lights) trike died. I'm baffled...should changing the load kill the bike? I think the stator should still provide electronics right?? Or is the light "switch" run directly from battery? One other thing is that with both battery leads connected the charging system is keeping the battery at 14.60 volts but when I turn the lights on the voltage slowly declines until it levels off at around 12.5 or so which I think should still be plenty to run stuff. Voltage measurements are all at 1500 rpm idle. Mike I haven't moved the rectifier yet but I'm going to because it seems the trike cuts off after everything warms up well and doesn't start again until it cools off so heat soak makes sense to me.
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Post by edfr on Mar 1, 2011 13:29:45 GMT -5
Leeinark,
Yes, try moving the Rectifier, also Leeinark PM RAPIDJIM or give him a call he has put these 300s together for people that bought them. He has more knowledge than any of us with the 300s. He is a very good Joe and even if you did not buy it from him if he can help he will.
Lefty
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Post by leeinark on Mar 1, 2011 15:40:07 GMT -5
Well: I cut a piece of styrofoam the same size as the rectifier to kind of guard against the heat. I took it for a ride and rode about 20 minutes and it ran like a million bucks. To early to say the fix is in but it sure seems like I'm going in the right direction.
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Post by edfr on Mar 1, 2011 16:30:29 GMT -5
FANTASTIC!! I hope that is all it was.
Lefty
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Post by leeinark on Mar 1, 2011 22:10:05 GMT -5
Thx Lefty me too. Let me ask you this do rectifiers go "sort of bad"? Also, my scoot is idling a little fast but I've got the idle screw about as far out as I can get. But the thing is running so nice I hate to mess with anything else.
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Post by mike6736 on Mar 1, 2011 22:13:42 GMT -5
Lee, sounds like it is charging good. The reason it would die with the cable off and high beamers was a lack of amps not voltage.
I think Edfr called it right on. I got so many things to do on mine when I get, I am learning so much from all of ya
Mike
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Post by edfr on Mar 1, 2011 23:13:17 GMT -5
Leeinark,
Rectifiers will usually start to go bad, but you should notice something is not right with your volt meter gauge that it is not charging your battery up to snuff. Or when you are riding it should be charging really good. So notice where the needle points at idle and when you are riding or revving at around 3-5000 rpms. Then if something starts to go south you will know where the needle should be pointing to. Or test it with a Volt Meter, up on the Rpms it should be over 13 or 14.
Let me ask this On the Throttle grip do you have some Play, what I mean can you twist the throttle cable about say 1/4 of an inch before it acutally activates the Carb Butterfly?
The Throttle Twist shoud have about 1/4 play so that when you let go it springs back and the Butterfly in the Carb is completly closed.
If you do NOT have play it could be holding the butterfly a little open which would cause the higher idle. You can adjust the Cable either right under the Handle you will find a rubber piece covering the adjustment screw in or out adjuster. Or you can adjust it by the throttle where it bolts onto the Carb Bracket.
Lefty
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Post by leeinark on Mar 2, 2011 8:46:18 GMT -5
Lefty: Don't have a volt meter on the trike. I just purchased a digital volt meter that samples 5 times a second. It's blue just like my trike. I'll install when it arrives. I knew about the idle adjustment I'm just hesitant to mess with it because the thing is running so well. Mike I hear you on the amps but it appears (and I could certainly be wrong) the high beams actually use less voltage and possible amperage than the low beams at least according to my volt meter, but I hear you and agree. Mike did you buy the 150 or 300? I had to adjust my valves twice within 150 miles on my 300. Probably because I got them a little snug the first time I did it at 50 miles. Nice thing is you don't have to take anything but the under seat panel (two screws) to do so. This thing runs a tad bit over 60 now on a level road. It's great for local scooting around. I'm purchasing an old Honda CB 900 for my long haul needs...but this trike is so much fun and the looks you get are worth the price of admission. Thx guys for your inputs. When I finish my luggage rack and sissy bar I'll try to post a picture...probably a month or so.
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Post by rapidjim on Mar 3, 2011 8:28:32 GMT -5
Lee,
Nice reading everything you are sharing with the folks here. Your pictures are great and so are your mods. Glad you enjoy the trike.
Jim/Owner
Rapid Repair
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Post by leeinark on Mar 3, 2011 9:00:43 GMT -5
Jim: I still have a minor (bug the crap out of you) problem. Rode about 5 miles or so the other day and had lunch. When I came back out and started the scoot it fired right up and idled fine. About 45 seconds later after I got helmet and gloves on I started to accelerate and it bogged down and died. Did this 3 times. The forth time I pumped the accelerator hard once before I started it and it ran and took off just fine. Stuck needle valve maybe?? It still will die when I travel over about 3 or 4 miles when I let off the throttle all the way. Yet normal idle is just fine when I crank it up hot or cold. On a side note is there a better carb replacement for the one that comes on this trike?? Thx
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Post by rapidjim on Mar 3, 2011 9:42:35 GMT -5
Sounds to me like the carb needs to be adjusted, and they are a pain to get to the air/fuel adjustment screw. It is on the bottom of the carb near the intake. The reason I say this is that the first few miles after start up the auto choke is on and you are getting a richer mixture. You may also need to upjet the carb.
Jim/Owner
Rapid Repair
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Post by leeinark on Mar 3, 2011 17:06:29 GMT -5
Jim just today I rode 3 miles to the hardware store. Spent about 5 minutes in the store. Rode about 2 miles towards home. Let off throttle for about 200 yards to make a left turn towards my house. As soon as I made the turn and started to accelerate it bogged down and started to die. I pulled over shut it off. Pumped the accelerator hard once. Fired it back up and it ran fine. What's the diagnosis?? Othe than this annoying problem it is running fantastic.
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Post by edfr on Mar 3, 2011 19:15:11 GMT -5
Leeinark,
Like Jim said I think your Carb needs to be adjusted and like he mentioned on yours it is a pain to get at. Becasue it is UNDER the Front by the Intake side that connects to the Intake Manifold. You could loosen the clamps holding it in place and Turn the Carb enough so that you can turn The Air/Fuel Mixuture Screw. Since it runs good when you first start it Sounds like it is running LEAN after your ENRICHER(CHOKE) shuts off the extra fuel. So Turn the Air/Fuel Mixture Counter Clockwise at least a half turn and try that, it may need more but try half turns at a time.
Lefty
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Post by leeinark on Mar 3, 2011 21:10:00 GMT -5
Ok thx Lefty. Probably won't get to it until next week but I'll let you guys know the outcome.
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