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Post by fergie on Feb 19, 2010 18:12:21 GMT -5
Setting up wife's Ice Bear PST150H. Manual mostly worthless.
1) Is there a decent manual anywhere; I can't find one. I do have some good ones found on motor and on 2-wheel version of this trike that I'll share.
2) Where the heck do you put oil in gearbox? Fill hole on every other scoot in the world seems to be missing on this one and I can't find one (unless it's the one under the drive sprocket. ???? HELP ????
3) If there is no manual, can somebody tell me the order of disassembly of rear bodywork to get to engine etc.
Few quality problems with scooter but looks great and she's on me about getting it ready to ride.
Thanks
Fergie
"29 motorcycles and I'm back to a scooter" just proves "it's the ride"!!!!!
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Post by als01seville on Feb 19, 2010 19:50:36 GMT -5
Hi Fergie, Congratulations on your PST150H, I have one and so does my Brother-in law as a matter of fact we went for a 10mile ride today we live in CHI TOWN BRRRRRRRRR it was cold.
1. No, there are no manuals for the TRIKES, what they send you is for the Two Wheel Scoots.
But they are all the same the only exception is the 2 wheels in the back with a Axle that has a Open End Differential.
2. Gearbox Oil Fill Hole. The fill hole is on the sprocket side of the engine. When you look at the front of the Sprocket you will see TWO Screws. One Screw is right on the edge of the caseing that holds the caseing together. But just right BELOW it to the LEFT you will see another Screw and its a little back from the edge of the caseing and if you look at it the caseing is raised a little where the screw goes in. THATS your gearbox oil fill. After you drain it and go to fill it only fill it until the oil starts to drip out of the fill hole. Now it does not take much oil so take it easy otherwise you will have a lot of oil spilling on the floor. I think it takes around 110cc or so not much at all.
3. On the PST150H under the seat there is a cover held by two screws with that off you can get to all of the top items on the engine, Intake, Carb, Filter hoses, Reverse Mechanism etc..
To get to the lights in back there is a cubby hole held down by two Snap on screws you get a screw driver and pop them up and the cubby holder pulls out and you can get to your rear lights.
I have not had to take off any of the rear bodywork for anything. I changed all the rear lights to LEDS etcc. But to take the rear panels off you do have some work to do. You have to take the rear carrier off, disconnect the seat lock, bolts inside the seat, there are screws under the panels and on the side which you have to take the seat and storage pan out. LOTS OF WORK.
Me and my brother-in law have had them since last june and they are running great. I just installed taller tires now it is cranking at 60mph with Racing Prodigy Variator and 12g Sliders
at 7000-7200 rpms.
Alleyoop
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Post by fergie on Feb 19, 2010 20:04:17 GMT -5
Good info, thanks. I saw that screw behind the sprocket. Only the one clip to get drive sprocket off right?
My Ice Bear came with no rubber washers at all. Good tip, save the rubber that is wrapped around the rear axle for shipping. I cut a piece about 1" wide and long enough to go around the inside of the rear fenders before mounting to the center section. You are supposed to use rubber washers but the rubber strips are actually better. I just pushed the rubber strip up under the edge of the fender and used drill to gently/carefully put a hole where it's supposed to be. Did it by myself as it's not difficult. Now there is rubber all the way around the inside of the rear fenders.
More "tips" to come.
Thanks again,
Fergie
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Post by als01seville on Feb 19, 2010 20:26:33 GMT -5
Fergie, Yes only one Clip to take the Sprocket off. I used weather striping tape and taped all the places where the fenders touch the fender holders. That was one of the things I did to stop the rattling. I also used weather striping tape in the trunk to stop that from rattling. I do not have a single rattle now.
I have also put in a turn signal beeper and emergency flasher, you can go and read all the stuff in my ICE BEAR PST150H TRIKE thread.
Alleyoop
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Post by fergie on Feb 19, 2010 20:31:31 GMT -5
Didn't know where to do this. New. Do you know rear wheel lug nut torque? I've followed your thread. All very good info. First scooters since Honda 50 in about 1962 or so...........
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Post by als01seville on Feb 19, 2010 21:23:55 GMT -5
Fergie, Question I have for you, Did yours come with a WASHER behind the Castle Nut?
Does it have a COTTER PIN to hold the Castle Nut?
Anyway You tighten it as much as it will go AND IT MUST BE TIGHT when you LINE UP a SLOT on the Castle Nut to allow you to put in a COTTER PIN.
Alleyoop
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Post by fergie on Feb 19, 2010 22:05:16 GMT -5
What castle nut? Front axle?
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Post by fergie on Feb 19, 2010 22:09:54 GMT -5
Just figured out what you asked. Will check in a.m. I was asking re wheel nuts, not axle nut. Read another post about that axle nut and cotter pin in thread where they discussed putting center axle cover (hub cap) on with silicon.
I'm looking around now (no hurry) for a junked racing atv to give up rear axle for possible big engine transplant some day.
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Post by kliff on Feb 20, 2010 10:53:24 GMT -5
TTT
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Post by als01seville on Feb 25, 2010 17:31:10 GMT -5
Fergie,
Those center covers were a joke:) I did not even bother putting them on. My brother-in law put them on and Lost one then he lost the other one:) But using silicone will help them stay on.
Alleyoop
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Post by mountainmoped on Mar 18, 2010 22:08:15 GMT -5
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Post by fukfghgh on Mar 19, 2010 21:09:44 GMT -5
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