|
|
Post by tyrssen on Jan 9, 2008 17:44:22 GMT -5
I've got this post over at the "125cc & up" section as well; just thought I'd put it here for maximum response (thank ya so much, in advance!)
I've just finished putting 85 miles on my new Xingyue "Eagle 150." I'd been hearing a metallic sound that seemed to be coming from the front end, for the last hour or two of operation. When I put the scooter up on its center stand, I spin the front wheel and it catches at several different points, making that "ching-ching" sound.
Holy Ned ... can I really have a warped disc rotor, this early in the game? It's gonna sit in the garage, until I hear back from my friends here on the Forum!
(At least I got the first oil change done.)
|
|
|
|
Post by rerun2 on Jan 9, 2008 18:51:07 GMT -5
Anything is possible!! (Glad me not gots no Chink Chink noises, yet!) Might give the entire brake thingies a really close inspection, no telling what might be happening, if it is not as you suspect. Is it possible that the 'tension' on the cable is forcing the brake to activate intermittently? The 'so called ABS stuff is often mentioned as problematic! Wild guesses, but brakes, especially the front seems to be a more or less common source of concerns. Wish I could be of more assistance...  |
|
|
|
Post by scooterollie on Jan 9, 2008 19:37:14 GMT -5
Yes, the rotor can be warped and I believe it is not that uncommon on these scoots. Don't know what is causing that sound. Like Rerun said, look at it very carefully to see if you can determine the cause. And no, the ABS units are mostly trouble free. Perhaps someone else with more brake experience can give you a suggestion.
|
|
|
|
Post by slowscootin07 on Jan 10, 2008 9:15:15 GMT -5
As being a cage mechanic by profession, it does sound like a warped rotor. It's actually quite easy to do and could be causedby many things including: Extreme braking, a caliper that is dragging, faulty craftsmanship and many more. If you apply the brakes and the front wheel shakes, shimmies or pulses, then it is definitely warped. Replace the rotor or soon you'll overheat your pads and glaze them over causing a potential failure at the most inconvenient time for sure.
Hope this helps
|
|
|
|
Post by tankcommander on Jan 10, 2008 10:55:22 GMT -5
You may want to take a look at your caliper bolts and make sure they are tight. I at first thought I had a warped rotor and ended up being the caliper bolts were backing themselves out.
|
|
|
|
Post by tyrssen on Jan 10, 2008 13:36:03 GMT -5
Thank you all, for the help! I'm hoping TC is right, and it's just caliper bolts.... since the rotor isn't covered by warranty. It's only $45, but even so ...
|
|
|
|
Post by swampsniper on Jan 10, 2008 15:14:25 GMT -5
Could just be some burrs around the rotor vent holes.
|
|
|
|
Post by tyrssen on Jan 10, 2008 20:04:10 GMT -5
Could indeed, SwampSniper. I'll be chamfering them tomorrow -- and checking the brake fluid as well. The master cylinder took a little "figgering out" to reach, but having done that, I'm tempted to pick up a vacuum bleeding tool and replace the existing fluid. All bolts 'n' nuts seem to be tight ... the rotor itself likes (visually) like it may be a little warped. We'll see if I can cure it, without a replacement.
|
|
|
|
Post by scooterollie on Jan 10, 2008 20:43:02 GMT -5
Tyrssen;
I bought a vac. bleeder for my previous scoot. One major problem I had was when you crack open the bleed valve on the caliper and apply a vacuum to it, air is sucked in around the threads. I even wrapped them with teflon tape. Eventually got it done but it was a pain. Haven't tried it yet on my present scoot.
|
|
|
|
Post by tyrssen on Jan 13, 2008 12:26:50 GMT -5
Thanks for that tip, Ollie; I'll tape up threads from the git-go, just in case.
|
|
