Daymak Valve adjustment/Check

[mrsg]

Hi all,
Did my valve adjustment, and thought i show my step by step for any daymak scooter owners out there. I know they are all the same, but looking at your own bike makes it easier.

I learned it from reading the form and special credit goes out to Kaos
( scootdawg.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=125ccandlarger4strokegy6&action=display&thread=22784) and Enviromoto
( scootdawg.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=discussion&action=display&thread=19177)
You 2 save me about $150 on doing my own valve adjustment!

Engine type 1P57QMJ (150cc)

step 1: take off the plastic molding
When you have all that done you will be left with this.

Step 2: (above photo) Remove oil breather hose on top of valve cover and the pollution control hose on bottom]
Step 3: (above photo) Remove bolts around valve cover (circled in red) And remove the spark plug. Keep the bolts in the cover so you do not lose them
Step 4: Remove the valve cover. I found i had to wiggle mine to get it started. You will be left with this (picture below)

Step 5: (photo below) Remove the Fan cover housing by removing 2 bolts and 2 screws(the screws are just under the plastic side wall)

Once the bolts and screws are out you will have to rotate the cover a bit to get it to come out. The exhaust makes it a tight fit. Once that is done you will be looking at this.

Now we need to move the piston to top dead center(TDC) to close the valves.
Step 6: (photo below) Below the cooling fan there is a copper housing you will find markings on it. There will be a "T" and a "F" with corresponding lines near them. You need to line up the "T" line(line is hard to see in photo) with the outer housing(red arrow)

Step 7: (photo below)Once you have the "T" lined up, look at the chain sprocket where your valves are and see if you have 3 holes. The bigger hole needs to be at the top If you do not see it Go back to step 6 and spin the cooling fan around again. Once you see the big hole at the top with the "T" aligned the 2 smaller holes should be aligned with the motor housing If you have over turned it, just do it all over again till they are aligned.

Step 8: (photo below) Now that you have the piston at TDC pull out your feeler gauge and see where your valves are set too. The valve with EX on it is your exhaust. My Intake was 0.006" and the Exhaust 0.004"

Step 9: to adjust your valves i used a 9mm wrench and an adjustable wrench. Loosen the nut using a 9mm wrench and hold the bolt with adjustable wrench at the same time. After u have it loosened you can adjust the valve with your fingers. I adjusted my intake valves to 0.003" by inserting the feeler gauge that size, and moving the bolt so it was snug, but not to tight on the feeler gauge. Then i screwed the bolt down and re-tighten it. After that is done recheck valve.

Now do the same for the exhaust. Mine read 0.004". So i left it alone.

Once you have done both valves completed, assemble it in reverse order. Make sure to use anti-seize on your spark plug so u can get it out again.

Thanks to all the dawgs out there that taught me how to do this!

Ray

[kliff]

+1 for ya Ray, good write up, great pics.

[2btiger]

Brilliant work Ray +2. One for thinking of others while doing the work & second for the editing, especially the editing that was very considerate.

Tiger.

[usfmarine]

+1 for contributing. great job.

[ootscoot]

Well done - even I could follow your directions. Question - engine hot or cold? - lukewarm? For some strange reason I have noticed the valve gap to get bigger on a warm engine - so I adjust to .002 on a hot engine...

[mrsg]

Yes engine needs to be cold before you do this.

[wf1761]

Good job! A bone for ya.

[dishe]

Nice work on the pics- very informative. If Lee were still around, I'd tell him to throw this into his ScootDawg official manual...

[stnctstr]

mrsg,
Thanks for taking the time to make this thread with pics. It made my valve adjustment a breeze.

[numbski]

I know I'm bumping a long-dead thread - but for the exhaust valve, aren't you supposed to roll the flywheel until the intake valve is fully close and the exhaust valve is fully open, THEN adjust it? If not, I've got (and have long had) my exhaust valve way out of adjustment!

[harrywr2]

Aug 16, 2009 11:56:45 GMT -5 numbski said:

I know I'm bumping a long-dead thread - but for the exhaust valve, aren't you supposed to roll the flywheel until the intake valve is fully close and the exhaust valve is fully open, THEN adjust it? If not, I've got (and have long had) my exhaust valve way out of adjustment!

Some folks do it that way.

Some engine designs have overlapping valve timing...I.E. There is a point where the intake and exhaust valves are both open. So adjusting the exhaust valve based on the fact that the intake valve is open may not work.

[Florida Chameleon]

This certainly made the concept easier for me... Not dreading it quite so much now!

[JR]

Guys this is the way to do it! Great job! JRR