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Post by lokain on Apr 9, 2009 5:31:36 GMT -5
This is my newest project runs great just has a problem with starting if i don't start it at least every other day. is a 94 or 96 piaggo zip ,all still original motor has never benn touched other than to do minor repair paid the total of 50 dollars from it from my old boss his wife used it to run around town What i want to do is make it a sleeper as it wont be driven around town on an everyday basis just gonna do minor repair work to the body to make it look a little better and to fix all the cracks in the body Is this scoot worth putting money into to make it a lot faster in short distances like for drag (was thinking of putting a 70 or 80 cc kit on it . but I'm not sure if i can go that high in power and still have decent stopping power it has all drum brakes on it and if you owned the scoot what would be something you would do to it atm all the restrictions are still in it still has original exhaust on it and it runs at 48 mph top-end      |
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 9, 2009 6:18:19 GMT -5
I think it would make a good scoot for in town power. It looks like a relatively short wheelbase, small frame, light scoot. I read a couple of other people saying the Zip is a little unstable at higher speeds, but an in-town racer shouldn't need to go that fast. If you don't get up to much higher speeds, your brakes should be alright. Just make sure you have a look at them to make sure nothing is worn etc... I'm sure you could do at least a front disc conversion if it becomes necessary.
I don't know much about the Piaggio 2T engines, but I know there seems to be plenty of aftermarket parts out there. Since you want a sleeper you could go with a big bore kit, stiffer clutch springs, and lighter roller weights to start. Most people would never notice that anything was different at that point and take off power should be greatly improved.
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Post by lokain on Apr 9, 2009 7:52:43 GMT -5
um yeah it is very light i can pick it up and and carry it down stairs to my storage room in my apartment i live in i think it weighs around 130 pounds unlike my kymco it weighs 260 pounds
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Post by 2strokd on Apr 9, 2009 7:57:03 GMT -5
That could be a heck of a stop light to stop light beast of a scooty. Thats what im after with my scoot
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Post by backhill on Apr 9, 2009 8:28:19 GMT -5
Do it!! Modding is half the fun.
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 9, 2009 8:35:35 GMT -5
Wow. Mine's around 200 pounds. I need a light scoot like that to make up for the not-so-light rider.  |
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Post by lokain on Apr 9, 2009 9:42:17 GMT -5
lol not so light rider I know the feeling im weighing in a 240 pounds
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 9, 2009 11:14:06 GMT -5
Unfortunately, I've got you beat. I'm down to 277lbs after getting as high as 300 even about 2-3 months ago. It's coming up on bikini season you know. I'll post pics. J/K Don't run away from your computer screaming just yet. lol |
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Post by 2strokd on Apr 9, 2009 14:12:27 GMT -5
Unfortunately, I've got you beat. I'm down to 277lbs after getting as high as 300 even about 2-3 months ago. It's coming up on bikini season you know. I'll post pics. J/K Don't run away from your computer screaming just yet. lol Thats funny Vert  ...You lost some weight though ;D. 40# will give a tenth in the quarter  gotta do something on a scoot. If i had the $ and that little zip i would pick a good big bore kit that is specifically for low to mid range power, and the rest of the goodies pipe, carb, etc and make it as fast as possible 0 to 40or 45mph. By the time the faster scoots are catching up the race is already over. |
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Post by lokain on Apr 9, 2009 19:53:41 GMT -5
Unfortunately, I've got you beat. I'm down to 277lbs after getting as high as 300 even about 2-3 months ago. It's coming up on bikini season you know. I'll post pics. J/K Don't run away from your computer screaming just yet. lol grats on the weight loss up till last year i weighed in at just over 350 pounds but that is because i wasnt able to do anything for 4 years due to medical problems but back on the subject what parts do you guys recomend me buying ( list of parts please or kits ) |
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 10, 2009 3:41:41 GMT -5
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Post by lokain on Apr 10, 2009 4:13:17 GMT -5
actually shipping isnt that big of a deal cause i technically live in the scandivian area nether lands sweden germany all those places are like 2 to 4 hours flying time
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 10, 2009 4:32:15 GMT -5
Ah, nice. I never noticed your location lol.
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Post by lokain on Apr 10, 2009 10:16:59 GMT -5
Okies been out shopping today on the web ordering parts for this thing before i actually order them how does this look so far
POLINI EVOLUTION2 70CC CYLINDER
Polini Evolution2 70cc cylinder
The successor to the legendary and highly-praised Polini-Evolution. The layout of this second evolution series has been completely re-arranged. Now it contains a triple exhaust port,larger boost port and higher port timings. In order to avoid bottlenecks during deliveries from Gilardoni, Polini has decided to build these cylinders themselves and they still are of the same quality. 47.6mm bore, as it is the standard with these cylinders. With the right components it unleashes about 21hp, according to Polini, its performance is about 1hp higher than its predecessor. The Polini Evolution 2 is definitely one of the best performing cylinders but make sure to use a high quality Racing crankshaft to avoid damages.
INTAKE SYSTEM MOTOFORCE RACING
Polini Evolution2 70cc cylinder
The successor to the legendary and highly-praised Polini-Evolution. The layout of this second evolution series has been completely re-arranged. Now it contains a triple exhaust port,larger boost port and higher port timings. In order to avoid bottlenecks during deliveries from Gilardoni, Polini has decided to build these cylinders themselves and they still are of the same quality. 47.6mm bore, as it is the standard with these cylinders. With the right components it unleashes about 21hp, according to Polini, its performance is about 1hp higher than its predecessor. The Polini Evolution 2 is definitely one of the best performing cylinders but make sure to use a high quality Racing crankshaft to avoid damages
Stage6 19mm Dellorto BE
Stage6 now offers you the well-known and well-tried Dellorto Racing carburetors. The most noticable feature of the 19mm carb (type PHBG) is its black colour. The metal float bowl is equipped with a central screw that allows you to easily change the main jet, the way you know it from Arreche carburetors. Thanks to the threaded cap for the throttle slide, you can easily change the needle without having to take the complete carburettor out of the manifold. The new way of jetting also prevents an overrich mixture. The carburettor has an oil feed and vacuum connection and so is ideal for daily use. Same performance as predecessor, but equipped with plenty of new, handy features.
Main jet: 75, pilot jet: 45, needle W9
Crankshaft Metrakit SP
A very robust crankshaft from the Metrakit SP series. It is actually identical to the PRO crankshaft without plastic padding and can be used with racing cylinders that don't rev too high.
Top Performances Racing Vario
With the TPR vario, Top Performances has developed the next generation. The re-designed roller area made of CNC milled aluminium results in excellent shifting characteristics and easy adjustment as compared to the "Nardo" vario. Comes with V-belt and 2 pairs of rollers for adjustment.
that is what i was thinking to order so far
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Post by rallyrrr on Apr 10, 2009 11:01:00 GMT -5
Why so small a carb? Around 10 crank hp is all you will get out of a 19mm carb. You're wasting your money on the crank with this carb. The point of the crank is the robustness for high rpm. I doubt you'll even see 10,000 rpm with a 19mm carb. You probably need to go with a 25mm or bigger carb to take advantage of that cylinder and crank. Take all commercial plaudits with a grain of salt. They are in the business of selling parts for profit. Trust more people have had real success over a number of years with different parts and setups. Also educate yourself on the two stroke motor to have a good basis on what works and what doesn't. One good such text is "Two Stroke Performance Tuning" by Australian, A. Graham Bell. Haynes Publishing. Also a good pipe (expansion chamber) is usually the biggest part of the two stroke tuning equation. Good high rpm racing exhausts are expensive, $300 - $500 usually. Around 13 - 14 hp at the rear wheel is all that you can realisticly expect from a fairly reliable street scooter with rpms rarely reaching 12,000 rpm. Those 21 hp jobs spin up to 14,000+ and need rebuilding every few hours if used to the fullest extent on a regular basis. I prefer around 10,000 as the upper limit for continuous (crusing) operation for decent reliability with the stock crank anyway.
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Post by lokain on Apr 10, 2009 12:04:28 GMT -5
sorry i posted the wrong carb on that list
it was supposed to be this one
Racing carburettor Stage6 R/T PWK 28mm
The Stage6 RT PWK carburettor has been newly developed by KOSO and is produced exclusively for Stage6. The CNC machined and polished venturi allows for better engine breathing, which translates into better response. Outer diameter of the carb as well as the connection size for the intake manifold (35 mm) have been reduced, making mounting easier. Furthermore, the black racing finish gives the carb a sleek high quality look. Of course, this carb is also equipped with a powerjet and the included instructions guarantee easy jetting. Additional carb needles and jets in different sizes can of course also be purchased for this carburettor
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Post by lokain on Apr 10, 2009 12:06:31 GMT -5
oh lol rallyrrr i just noticed your in arkansas i grew up around the van buren alma mountainburg area
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 10, 2009 12:13:18 GMT -5
Holy crap, you aren't playing around. lol Right in line with what rallyrrr said, I have heard that the Evo kits will make big power at high revs but I was told not to put one on any scooter that I wanted to be reliable. You definitely wanna find a set of cermaic bearings to go with all of that stuff.
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Post by lokain on Apr 10, 2009 12:49:30 GMT -5
havent ordered anything yet hehehe
i think i would rather go a little smaller on the cc to make the scoot last a little longer im not really going after top end speed but when i hit the throttle i wanna be able to move now and not in a few min
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 10, 2009 12:59:59 GMT -5
The bigger cc won't necessarily mean it's not reliable, but doing a crankshaft is a whole lot more work than a big bore kit. 2strokd seems really happy with his Polini Sport kit for torque. It's not gonna make 21HP, but I think it may do what you are looking for a lot cheaper. Some high RPM engagement clutch springs (and maybe an aftermarket clutch/bell) can make a big difference to get you moving now and not later. Lighter roller weights and/or a stiffer torque spring can help as well.
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Post by rallyrrr on Apr 10, 2009 15:03:52 GMT -5
oh lol rallyrrr i just noticed your in arkansas i grew up around the van buren alma mountainburg area Used to go through there on my way to and from the U of A in Fayetteville when I went to school up there for a couple of years. But that was a long time ago. Woooo. Pigs. Sooie! Razorbacks! |
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Post by YellowScooter on Apr 12, 2009 8:46:59 GMT -5
If a quality bore kit is installed & tuned properly, break in proceedure followed, and you're not beating on it constantly, it'll last you a good long while. If it's pulling wheelstands, from under every other stoplight, directly after reassembly, it won't last you past sunset. I'd build it up as healthy as I could. But toping out at 48mph is plenty fas enough on drum brakes methinks. |
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Post by lokain on Apr 13, 2009 10:21:13 GMT -5
oh it wont be used much except to shut up some smartarse kids around here that think the stolen scoot they are on is fast
(hehe got 3 of them arrested this weekend for trying to steal my little piaggo)
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Post by kliff on Apr 13, 2009 16:14:06 GMT -5
havent ordered anything yet hehehe i think i would rather go a little smaller on the cc to make the scoot last a little longer im not really going after top end speed but when i hit the throttle i wanna be able to move now and not in a few min Bare frame up custom build! Paint, etc...along with those engine plans.....oh yeah! |
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...You lost some weight though ;D. 40# will give a tenth in the quarter 
gotta do something on a scoot. If i had the $ and that little zip i would pick a good big bore kit that is specifically for low to mid range power, and the rest of the goodies pipe, carb, etc and make it as fast as possible 0 to 40or 45mph. By the time the faster scoots are catching up the race is already over. 
