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Post by 50cckeeway on Jan 25, 2009 1:59:23 GMT -5
I have a weird brand of scooter for which a manual does not seem to exist. It's a 50cc Qianjiang "QJ" Venus. I'm doing some redesigning and need to relocate or remove this part but cannot figure out what it does. As far as I can tell the scoot runs fine without it but if it did something like monitor the gas gauge I wouldn't know just from a few test rides. There is a part number on it - 883626 - but internet searches turn up nothing. It's located on the left side next to the seat bucket, above the rear shock. There is a 10-amp fuse (flash kinda washed it out in the pic), a black wire coming out that I thought looked like an antenna but a 2nd opinion believes is possibly a thermometer (comes out of the bottom, goes out of the lower-left corner of the pic then bends back, ending in front of the metal band holding the mystery box). Also plugged into this black box was the part in the 2nd pic. This was presumably stuck to the outside of the seat bucket near the foot panel but had fallen off and was just dangling under the outer casing when i found it. It looks like a buzzer, which led me to believe this was an alarm system, but as far as i know this bike never had an alarm. Anyone?   |
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 25, 2009 9:31:42 GMT -5
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Post by scootermike on Jan 25, 2009 15:15:16 GMT -5
There are manuals, this is simply a QJ engine used in Keeway, Ventos and Stradas plus all two stroke belt drive use this mineralli style engine, so there are manuals we even offer one plus Keeway gives one each with every new scooter
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Post by 50cckeeway on Jan 26, 2009 10:17:38 GMT -5
90GTVert: Oh man, that was incredibly helpful. I'm already done! Useless alarm removed, correct wires jumped. Thanks! I went ahead and bookmarked that thread because I get the feeling it's going to be very useful as this project continues.
A second question.. I've snapped 4 belts in a month. The CVT is heating up excessively and I can't figure out why. When the belts snap the scoot sheds them but the pieces I find are brittle like they've aged a couple years in only a week.
I noticed the rear pulley seemed to be warped a bit so I replaced it and the entire clutch assembly and still the belt only lasted a week. The case heats up so much the kick start burned me after a 20min ride. On my last ride, after the belt snapped I opened the case and found the star-shaped washer next to the variator fan had snapped and the roller weights had melted against the rear plate--just to give you an idea of how hot it's getting in there.
For some reason my scoot has no air flow through the case so I designed an over-sized air scoop to force air through (which is why I'm moving lots of wiring, hence scrapping the alarm). It's unfinished so I haven't tried it out yet but what worries me is that this scoot preformed quite well without air flow for over a year, so airflow might help but there is definitely a larger problem somewhere.
The dealership I bought it from is very unreliable so I thought maybe they had sold me the wrong belt, but there is one other person in my area who owns my make and model and they confirmed the size. (788-17-28)
What else might cause such severe over-heating? I noticed the rear pulley and clutch assembly have a very slight wobble but the bearing in the case should keep that steady when assembled, right? Is any amount of wobble in either axle normal?
I haven't been able to determine which end is generating the heat - front or rear.
I noticed you mentioned cutting holes in the CVT cover. I haven't done the rear end yet for the air outflow and was considering cutting simple vents. Is debris or water a concern? I live in a very humid, salty ocean-air climate and have to be able to ride in the rain, if that makes a difference.
Possibly related - i had the scoot serviced by the dealership about a week before the first belt snapped. It was idling and running poorly, they had it for 3 days and said all they did was clean the carb (I also had them change the rear brakes for me while they had it). It ran fine for about a week then performance started to slip again, only slightly but it was noticeable, then a couple days later the belt snapped for the first time. I had them replace it, they charged $140 and it snapped again a week later. I haven't taken my scoot anywhere near that place since.
A friend suggested the carb might have been adjusted poorly, giving the engine too much air and causing it to run hot. Someone else said the rear brakes might be rubbing and causing friction. The rear tire spins freely when it's off the ground so I don't think that's the problem. I don't know how to check or tune to the proper carb mix or whether that's even a legitimate concern.
Any thoughts?
Scootermike: Where can I order one of these Minarelli manuals and how do I know whether it's the right engine? And if you do have a manual on hand can you confirm the proper belt size for my scoot?
Thanks for the help, guys.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 26, 2009 13:00:31 GMT -5
A second question.. I've snapped 4 belts in a month. The CVT is heating up excessively and I can't figure out why. When the belts snap the scoot sheds them but the pieces I find are brittle like they've aged a couple years in only a week. I noticed the rear pulley seemed to be warped a bit so I replaced it and the entire clutch assembly and still the belt only lasted a week. The case heats up so much the kick start burned me after a 20min ride. On my last ride, after the belt snapped I opened the case and found the star-shaped washer next to the variator fan had snapped and the roller weights had melted against the rear plate--just to give you an idea of how hot it's getting in there. For some reason my scoot has no air flow through the case so I designed an over-sized air scoop to force air through (which is why I'm moving lots of wiring, hence scrapping the alarm). It's unfinished so I haven't tried it out yet but what worries me is that this scoot preformed quite well without air flow for over a year, so airflow might help but there is definitely a larger problem somewhere. I think you are on the right track. The airflow is nice, but I think you have a mechanical problem somewhere. It sounds like you've done it already, but chek everything as thoroughly as possible to make sure things are lining up, surfaces are true, etc... The dealership I bought it from is very unreliable so I thought maybe they had sold me the wrong belt, but there is one other person in my area who owns my make and model and they confirmed the size. (788-17-28) Same size both of my scoots use. I think that's what most Yamaha/Minarelli/Jog style engines use. What else might cause such severe over-heating? I noticed the rear pulley and clutch assembly have a very slight wobble but the bearing in the case should keep that steady when assembled, right? Is any amount of wobble in either axle normal? I haven't been able to determine which end is generating the heat - front or rear. My rear shaft has a slight wobble as well. I think a little wobble is normal. The front shaft really shouldn't be wobbling. The front shaft where your variator attaches is actually one end of your crankshaft. You don't want that wobbling around. I noticed you mentioned cutting holes in the CVT cover. I haven't done the rear end yet for the air outflow and was considering cutting simple vents. Is debris or water a concern? I live in a very humid, salty ocean-air climate and have to be able to ride in the rain, if that makes a difference. I really haven't got to drive either of my scoots with the holes in the CVT cover in rain, so I can't tell you from experience. I would say a vented system with an air inlet in an area shielded from the elements would be a better idea on a scoot used for daily commuting. Possibly related - i had the scoot serviced by the dealership about a week before the first belt snapped. It was idling and running poorly, they had it for 3 days and said all they did was clean the carb (I also had them change the rear brakes for me while they had it). It ran fine for about a week then performance started to slip again, only slightly but it was noticeable, then a couple days later the belt snapped for the first time. I had them replace it, they charged $140 and it snapped again a week later. I haven't taken my scoot anywhere near that place since. A friend suggested the carb might have been adjusted poorly, giving the engine too much air and causing it to run hot. Someone else said the rear brakes might be rubbing and causing friction. The rear tire spins freely when it's off the ground so I don't think that's the problem. I don't know how to check or tune to the proper carb mix or whether that's even a legitimate concern. The carburetor being in perfect tune or out of tune entireley won't cause a belt to snap. If the rear brake was creating friction it may be an issue, but if the tire spins easily by hand I doubt that is the problem. Even if the break had an issue once warm (heat/expansion) you should notice a loss of power or top end mph. Here's a link to a manual for a Vento Zip, which should use the same engine/trans that you do.... CLICK HERE |
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Post by cruiser66 on Jan 26, 2009 14:27:47 GMT -5
It sounds like problems with the variator assembly. It sounds like something is binding or hanging up and not letting it work freely. It looks like you eliminated everything else.
66
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Post by 50cckeeway on Jan 27, 2009 4:59:47 GMT -5
Thanks guys. Will check out the variator and wobble in the crankshaft.
How do I tune my carburetor and the oil mix? I'd like to be sure that the engine isn't running hot and adding to the problem.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 27, 2009 6:55:18 GMT -5
Start by checking your plug, preferably not after a long period at idle. If the plug has been in there for a little while ideally it will be a caramel to chocolate color. If it looks gray you may be getting plenty of oil but not enough gas. If it's just white you probably aren't getting enough gas or oil. Darker than chocolate and you've got too much gas and or oil. Here's a good article about tuning carburetors. hondanighthawks.net/carb14.htmThe oil injection should be cable operated on your bike. There is an adjuster in the cable somewhere. Taking out slack will inject more oil, adding slack will inject less oil. |
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Post by 50cckeeway on Jan 29, 2009 12:22:38 GMT -5
Thanks for the info. I finally got the air system completed today. Tomorrow I'll tune the carburetor and give it a test run.
One last question. As I was moving some wiring I had trouble finding a good location for the coil. In it's original location it was mounted directly to the frame through a pretty heavy thick metal bar. In order to have the wiring work and protect it from weather my only options were mounting on plastic. Does the coil need to be that heavily grounded to the frame or is it okay to mount it elsewhere? It does have a heavy ground wire already.
Thanks again for all your help.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 29, 2009 12:48:51 GMT -5
IIRC the stock coil uses a plastic mount so it's not being grounded by the mount.
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