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Post by Kiwiscoot on Nov 9, 2010 5:34:25 GMT -5
Hi, community. I from Israel. I need help for my Citycom 300i Maintenance. Excuse me for my bad English . One only of the my problems – Where I can to buy by Internet valve adjustment tool? But to do valve adjustment with standard spanner set impossible! Other question – Where I can to buy by Internet spare part for my Citycom 300i? If it possible to buy not original parts, and it will be reliable? Or, for reliable I need to buy original parts only? In eBay Spare Parts for Citycom is absent… My problem is in Israel Citycom parts cost is crazy large! Thanks for help. For measuring the valves you need bent feeler guages - like these buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=9512&group_ID=1123As far as maintenance goes, you will need: 1.) a belt after 20 000kms which you'll find info here scootdawg.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=200cc&action=display&thread=321472.) rollers or slider weights which you can get from www.unionmaterial.com in Taiwan 3.) air cleaner which you can make a washable one as I describe in this thread. 4.) brake pads is a problem and I get them from my dealer. what parts do you need?
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Nov 9, 2010 5:55:22 GMT -5
Well I love this scoot, must be one of the easiest to do regular servicing. Did a 320km trip this weekend and it just ran fine with a BMW 1200GS and a Suzuki 1200 Bandit, even thru a mountain pass and rain weather, even saw 135kph on the speedo at times. Even at that speed it returned 3.9 liter/100km feul consumption - pretty good in comparison to the BMW's 5.6liter/100km. Needed the 2400km service. Piece of cake, oil change 10 minutes. Took the variator out and cleaned the sliders about a hour with me messing about. No wear even after 12000kms! Variator face has a slight bit of wear, but nothing to worry about. You can only see it if you hold a straight edge to the variator face. Belt still good after 9000kms. The "new" washable foam air-cleaner look good too after 2000kms, seems it will only need a clean after 10 000kms. Foam transmission air-filter was dusty so that got a wash. All this without even needing to remove a panel, just the CVT cover and the air-cleaner cover. Must be as easy as it gets. The Michelin Gold Standard tires seem to last well too, 9000kms and seems to be about 50% worn at the back. Front would probably do 30 000kms by the look of it. The scoot is all good now. I would like to do a New Zealand version of a Saddle-Sore - 1000kms in 24 hours. Our roads are to twisty to be able to do 1000miles in 24 hours. The 1000kms takes about 13 to 14 hours to do. Maybe this Friday, we'll see. Happy scooting Kiwiscoot PS - I've added a GPS mount, but the photos and description will come later.
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Jan 21, 2011 23:23:52 GMT -5
Hi everyone, recently bought a used citycom and i'm enjoying it, been reading the forum and appreciate the information...i see no one has found an aftermarket exhaust for the citicom, scouring the nets, i found that giannelli silencers is making one www.giannelli.com/eng/prodotti/details_pro.asp?id=792Hi, nice find! Wonder what the weight of it is? (standard muffler weighs in at a whopping 9kgs/20lbs. Wonder what the cost will be?? Now that with my freeflow aircleaner should make a difference. ;D
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Mar 21, 2011 21:32:06 GMT -5
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Apr 6, 2011 3:11:37 GMT -5
Next week I'll be joining the 20 000mile club. Well next week my 2008 SYM Citycom 300i will roll over 32 000kms. What an enjoyable experience it's been. Only problems were a horn stopped working which just needed adjustment, speedo wire broke in harness from the front wheel due to being fitted to tight at the steering head and one headlight bulb blown. The Maxxis tires lasted 15000kms and the Michellin Gold Standards then did another 14000kms on the back and the front seems still good for at least another 10000kms. I changed the belt at 14 000kms (as per manual but looked still good for 5-10000kms) and the rollers out to 19g Dr Pulley sliders to tune the rev's done a bit @ 115kph. Replaced both brake pads at 7000kms, 19000kms and front at 29000kms. Modifications:Removed the back fender to improve the look, fitted top box to spoil the look, use the big Givi screen for winter and factory screen for summer, fitted GPS and phone holders, Throttle Rocker for longer trips, fitted DIY foam air filter which improved MPG and performance and modified the seat to enable me to slide further back. I use it everyday to work, snow, rain, hail whatever but it lives inside for most of the day. Only rust-spots on the muffler (resprayed the muffler). It gives 3.5l/100kms as tracked with Feully over 25000kms and uses no oil during my 2000km oil change intervals. This is a DIY persons dream for routine maintenance, except valve adjustment(plastics to remove). This I checked at 12000kms and it was still within the bottom (tight) specifications (maybe the full synthetic oil used), I'm leaving it until I can hear it as a SYM mechanic told me in all his experience they have never had to adjust the valves on any of them. During this time it's done a 1000kms/day, 1460kms/day and numerous other long trips and cruises at 115kph - 120kph speedo speed all day, mountains whatever. Gets a lot of attention from other bikers on trips, who are amased that I can cruise just as easily as the bigger machines and its only a 300i! I've many a time looked at Silverwings, Burgmans and even test drove a T-Max, but fail to see what they will give me more than extra power and extra feul bills. Roll on kms!
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Post by Kiwiscoot on May 2, 2011 3:03:56 GMT -5
The oil light is just an oil service light which comes on every 3000kms to remind you to change the oil. Press the left button on the instrument panel for about 2-3s and it will go off. It has nothing to do with oil pressure, etc.
Strange that you saw no oil on dip stick?? Any oil leaks out the bottom of the engine?? Never over-tighten the bottom sump plug as it has a rubber O-ring. You will notice the torque value 1.3-1.7 kgf.m (not much at all) on Page 2-3 of the service manual. Over tightening it will deform the O-ring or even worst crack the plug. Mine's is still the same factory o-ring with no leaks after about 20 oil changes. I tighten the plug by hand as much as I can and then tweak it about an 1/8th of a turn. I use a 1 liter oil container that has a transparent window marked in 100ml intervals. I just fill that to the 900ml mark and tip the lot into the scoot. That way I'm sure I have filled it full enough. I have the scoot level on it's main stand when I fill it with oil. If you air filter is very dirty the engine can suck it's own oil thru the head breather tube. You will notice oil inside the air filter housing then.
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Post by Kiwiscoot on May 31, 2011 15:22:53 GMT -5
do you guys run an ethanol fuel blend?? If you do then it would explain your lower top speeds. It could be too that your speedos are more accurate than mine's. Mine does have the sliders and the foam airfilter which made a marked difference.
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Post by farkdanarc on Jun 29, 2011 0:11:52 GMT -5
do you guys run an ethanol fuel blend?? If you do then it would explain your lower top speeds. It could be too that your speedos are more accurate than mine's. Mine does have the sliders and the foam airfilter which made a marked difference. did you ever have an issue with the scoot stalling when you stop? i find that if i take off and stop fast, on the first few stops it will stall out. once ive been riding for awhile, its not an issue though. only at the start. strange....
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Post by wr125 on Jun 30, 2011 13:48:46 GMT -5
do you guys run an ethanol fuel blend?? If you do then it would explain your lower top speeds. It could be too that your speedos are more accurate than mine's. Mine does have the sliders and the foam airfilter which made a marked difference. did you ever have an issue with the scoot stalling when you stop? i find that if i take off and stop fast, on the first few stops it will stall out. once ive been riding for awhile, its not an issue though. only at the start. strange.... Never had this issue. How many miles do you get out of a tank? I get one flashing bar after 140 miles and get about 68mpg mostly highway.
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Post by wr125 on Aug 9, 2011 12:56:08 GMT -5
Only 1800 miles on my scoot. Want a belt and an airfilter to keep as a spare.
Stock front tire is out of balance and I can't seem to fix it. don't know if I can go 10k miles on this one.
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Post by radiuswoodguy on Aug 20, 2011 20:01:33 GMT -5
;Rolled over 25000 miles First and foremost I wish to thank Paul and the other contributors to this forum. The maintenance issues are so well portrayed and discussed with such a common sense approach. Having no dealer support they have proved Invaluable. I purchased the scoot from a great dealer with a fantastic mechanic, Carter Brothers and the economy ended my best-laid plans. Warranty and parts where unattainable. The great dealer had to give up and was a catastrophic loss. My attempts to get parts out of Canada and threw another local dealer where futile and very frustrating. I got buy with aftermarket necessities and your advice. Doing my own work is not an issue. I like to understand the job and ramifications the tips provided and pictures have saved my butt more than once. Things I have done Change the fluids on time every time or better. I use MOTOREX scooter 4T synthetic 10/40 {case on hand best way to buy} Metorex gear oil Same Dr pulley slider rollers Michelin gold standard “S” NGK iridium plugs Stock type belt PIAA HS1 headlights Mark 2 air filter (this is absolutely the way to go) Lucas fuel treatment [when needed] ECB brakes Pre mix cycle coolant Change the fluids and do necessary maintenance a lot more often than wash it. Due to a lot of non-freeway riding and the rain that is so prevalent in my location tires are replaced more often. On my 3rd set of tires with another set ready to go on for winter. I ride a lot of remote mountain roads. My aggressive riding goes threw brakes. The scoot is my primary means of transportation. The full size truck and Subaru only run when absolutely necessary Things I need to deal with A bad shake at about 27 to 37 mph have checked run out and balanced tires not sure what issue is. Dealer tried to figure this one out at first no remedy. May some what be a balance issue my pod is packed. The issue diminishes with the pod off but definitely still an issue. Have the same headlight issue most have reported the conclusion given on this web site makes the most sense. Dealer ordered me a new relay but never got it first week I picked it up. Just have to remember to rock the switch {annoying to say the least} Shot back rotor can find an after market front but no rear. Several machinists’ agree the metal in the stock one is of poor quality. Using better brakes they don’t hold up. Things I have done include the wiring issue thanks for the heads up mine was stressed and would have become an issue. ;)My conclusion at this time is Great Scoot that meets my needs, I ran a Kymco people 250s previous to this scoot after 30000 miles the seat is a deal breaker just like setting on rocks. The little extra power and useful power band enhances mountain riding. Fuel injection is wonderful vs. carburetor. The agility and handling is very enjoyable vs. the kymco or any bigger scoot I have ridden. The brighter headlights are very useful. The economy of fuel use and power fit my needs well. Storage is well addressed with a big Shad pod. This scoot is rarely garaged and not pampered and held up very well. I have looked at other scoots and do not see any I would trade for bigger is not always better. This being said the manufacturer and USA distributor have not shown respect for the people that bought their product and warranty and would ABSOLUTE EFFECT ANY FUTURE PURCHASE. The bringing in of new scooter inventory is of primary importance not the customers that got took, or their needs. During the Carter Brother Fiasco, Sym was non-existent I take that as a personal insult they should address. Calls and emails to Canada got me nowhere. The other local dealer stated when the reached a 500 us dollar order Canada would get the parts shipped 3 tries got no result. The brand is very tarnished in the USA market and dissevers it. I couldn't get pictures to work so i will try to link to photo bucket s1231.photobucket.com/home/radiuswoodguy/index
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Post by Globs on Feb 7, 2012 13:02:28 GMT -5
jpeg image hostingI noticed on my GTS300 (same engine) that the air intake starts as a rather abrupt hole at the end of the tube. This contrasts with the Joyride 200 which has a T shaped are intake. I'd suggest some extra power would be available by fitting a trumpet at the end of this - like you see in racing engines. The length may be tuned so you'd have to keep the length similar - but even rounding off the end of the plastic pipe walls may help, although you really want a nice plastic or metal trumpet: It will make the air intake louder but give more power! BTW that foam in front of the intake must be noise reduction, but could be upgraded too.
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Feb 10, 2012 5:44:15 GMT -5
yes I would think that should make a difference. Citycom has a short flared tube like that under the aircleaner cover. Not nice and high like yours so it can get dirty. SYM must have learnt from their Citycom experience, not that it's a problem.
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Post by rovoul on Apr 22, 2012 9:06:06 GMT -5
Hi there, My name is Rodrigo. I'm writing from Curitiba, Brazil (same city from bruelito). I've just bought my citycom... It'll take one month now on 29... It's been ridden for 860km so far. My first mods were to remove the air filter (I bought a K&N from Internet and I'll adapt it to original plate. Installed iridium spark, installed 18gr Dr Pulley sliders, but I'm waiting to arrive a 17gr set, as I drive in city only, and 0-100 is more important to me than keeping high speeds on roads. ah, I've cut a slice (3cm) from the foam on the seatrest, so that I could sit a little farer from the windshield, it got great! I've tryed to plot power and torque curves, using maximums that I have. I believe I'm cloe to reality img209.imageshack.us/img209/2292/citycom1.jpgIn time, I always liked performance engines. Any of you have ever wondered about turbocharging the Citycom? I've been thinikg a lot about it. If I move the gasoline tank to the space below the seat, I'd have enough space at the from to fit a very small turbo like this one: www.ebay.com/itm/MOTORCYCLE-QUAD-RHINO-Turbo-BIKE-SEADOO-Small-IHI-RHB31-/110695313833?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item19c5f471a9and even have some space for an intercooler. take a look at this Yamaha TMAX translate.google.com.br/translate?hl=pt-BR&sl=fr&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.okapi38.com%2Fokapi%2FEssais_Machines%2FT-max_Turbo.phpwww.youtube.com/watch?v=IJj7nEIbA-g
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Post by Kiwiscoot on May 5, 2012 4:52:19 GMT -5
The Givi screen does not extend to the edge of the handlebars. This cause water from the screen to run down right on to one's gloves. My gloves are cheap Pakistani leather (lots of little bits sewn together) which leaks. The euronetbikenet screen extends to the edge of the handlebars which is much better. I have no experience of the quality of these screens. My Givi screen cracked also in the first year of use. The front mount broke which caused the screen to flex back at highway speeds, this caused stress between the other mounting holes which caused a stress crack. I drilled the crack out to stop it from spreading. It is quite thin (2 - 3mm) for such a big screen and is only fixed at the bottom thru holes in the bottom of the screen. It scratches very easy compared to the factory screen even tho I'm very careful when I clean it. I was a bit disappointed as it is not a cheap item & I though it would be higher quality. As far as weather protection it is excellent ( apart from dumping the water on my gloves). I am 1.95m (6'4.5) and I can ride with my visor open & no wind in my face. It does have a bit of wind resistance & my fuel consumption goes up by about 0.2l/100km in winter as I ride with the factory screen in summer. The fuel consumption rise in winter will be due to the scoot running on the choke setting longer too, so not all due to the bigger screen. I would never have been able to ride every weekend last winter 380km at night with temperatures -2degC at arrival at my destination. Bottom line is I will not be without it as I ride year round almost everyday. this man had experience with an Arrow exhaust on his Citycom scootercommunity.com.au/members/racey-stacey.aspxhe said it rev'ed better, but I think he did not do the foam high-flow air-filter mod. I did contemplate buying it off him, but in the end I could not justify it. I'd be interested to hear what your experience of it is. Sounds like you'll have a super-duper Citycom at end of all the upgrade, maybe the fastest Citycom on the planet. Happy scooting Kiwiscoot
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Post by rovoul on May 7, 2012 19:07:36 GMT -5
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Post by mistereri on Jun 5, 2012 19:09:52 GMT -5
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Post by shoupdawg on Jul 6, 2012 1:44:37 GMT -5
Here is my latest modification to my Citycom. I've had to replace the air-filters every 10 000km and found they got very dirty. They are not cheap at NZD62 a go. A washable solution was in the works. I did have a go at it last year - this was the effort. Bottom side This did not work as the surface area was just to small. The scoot felt starved of air and the filter got very dirty in a short while. That was Mark1 filter and needed improvement. Here is Mark2 now. Top side Bottom side Air filter foam You will need the following to make your own: 1.) old Citycom air-filter 2.) expanded metal mesh 3.) Natural cure RTV/ silicon sealant. I used auto windscreen sealant. 4.) Dremel tool or something to cut out old filter 5.) tin snips to cut mesh to shape. 6.) marker pen. 7.) air filter foam and filter oil 8.)sharp scissors to cut the foam I used a Dremel tool to cut the old air filter out leaving an edge around the inside of the filter. Flatten the "ribs" in the plastic to give the mesh a flat surface to lie on. Trace the shape of the inside of the air-filter on the mesh and cut to size. Use the silicon sealant to glue it to the inside of the "frame" you've made. I traced the outside of the filter onto the foam and cut it out. The edge of the foam filter is captive between the edge of the air filter box and the edge of your crafted air filter frame. I've done about a 1000 km with it and will inspect it in another 200km when the scoot needs a service. The scoot feels like it has more up and go and it looks like my fuel consumption has improved too. IMHO it was a worthwhile exercise. happy scooting Kiwiscoot So I completed kiwiscoot's air filter modification. Of all his recommended mod's, this is the one I was most jazzed about as having been a former HD200 rider (sold it this past Wednesday to a retired gentleman who got a good deal), I was missing the HD's quickness off the line at stoplights. The HD became quick like that after getting a new air filter, so I figured that it would be the same here. First off, you really do need a dremel tool and a real one. I wasted time by buying a harbor freight one that was utterly useless. Like many parts of the bike, the plastic housing of the air filter is strong, hard, and well made. I had never used a dremel before and I was kind of winging it, so the edge he suggested was quite uneven. Also, I recommend that you wear clothes and shoes that you don't mind having hot splotches of black plastic hitting because that's what happened. I also had to move my scoot too as it was flinging this hot lava it's way...fortunately, none of it made it onto it. I did get a big splotch on my bicep and there are still blisters there this morning, although it stopped hurting after I pulled off the piece of hot plastic. Also, do wear gloves and MOST importantly, eye wear and even face and neck coverage as the hot plastic will be flung onto your face. The toughest part of the cutting out the innards is one of the screwhole eyelets on the bottom where the paperfilter rectangle touches the eyelet directly. So no cutting around it as there's not enough of a clearing around it. I used different bits and was finally able to get that last piece off but I made a mess of the eyelet....nowhere near as clean as kiwiscoot's. I then carefully used the dremel to cut the ribs that kiwi mentioned so that there would be a (relatively) smooth surface for the mesh to sit on. I also used the dremel's sanding feature as well as used sandpaper to get as many pieces of the melted plastic off and to smooth it up as much as possible. I took off too much in many areas and didn't have nearly enough of a "lip" or area along the perimeter of the filter to lay down the metal mesh, but since the plastic itself is hard, it kept it's shape and I was able to press the sharp pointy edges of the mesh into the inner perimeter of the filter. For the mesh, I ended up going to a metal shop here (Industrial Metal Supply) and actually picked up 3/16" inch holed, steel expanded metal that looks like the metal holes on the back of the filter. But I was bothered by the fact that it was 3/16" vs. .25" and after looking at Kiwi's filter, I was really worried it wouldn't breathe as much. So I ended up going with a metal grid patterned rain gutter mesh screen that was aluminum. A little more "stretchy" than I had wanted (the steel with the holes was solid), but it worked. I then added the natural cure epoxy. I also used the windshield version but in clear vs. black and made sure that I had an airtight seal all the way around. The foam was probably the toughest as i couldn't quite get the same cut out like Kiwi. In looking at his foam, it looks like less particles per inch (ppi), e.g. it's more porous and thus easier to cut vs. my thicker and denser Uni filter 65 ppi foam. That also may be the difference as it's just as slow off the line as it was and I didn't notice anything different after I installed it. If anything, the idle (to me anyway) seemed rougher. I thought maybe I overoiled it so I washed it out with foam filter wash, then hot water and soap (even though this was a brand new filter out of the package), let it dry overnight, then oiled it a bit less today and made sure to squeeze out the excess. I didn't notice the weird idle, but then against I wasn't looking for it. So I ordered 40 and 30 ppi foam..the later being called coarse foam. I also got some belrey foam filter oil. I couldn't bring myself to going to just 30 ppi, but I may try it later on. Just like Kiwi mentioned, it may just be me, but it seemed to have some extra oomph! Didn't have a chance to take it on the freeway, but hopefully that will take me over the 90 mph indicated-barrier...mpg increase stats will be forthcoming. ;)Wink Don't know why, but after that one fuel up after putting in the 65 ppi foam filter, I ended up getting worse and worse mpg. Here's what it was right after the 65 ppi filter: 84.93 (basically was on the freeway between fuel ups) 63.05 (surface) 60.27 (surface) 67.22 (more freeway here, but still had surface streets) 59.76 (surface) 71.21 (twisties with not a lot of stop and go and more freeway) and part of this was after the 40 ppi was put in So looking forward to increased mpg with the new foam. I'll give it a while and then may try out the 30 ppi. Back to surface streets the next couple of days so it'll be interesting to see what the mpg will be.
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Jul 14, 2012 7:09:25 GMT -5
Need some advice on the fuel filter , Just rolled over 30k and have never replaced the filter. I know it is in the tank and can get to it but that all.On my last 1500 mile trip when in the desert the scoot would lose power felt like starving for fuel. Letting it cool only for 10 min, it would run for a short time .It is very posable that i also got bad gas before this problem. Checked the fan it works acourding to specks . Has any one put a lower temperature fan sensor seems high ? Need some advice for the hot rides that get me to the mountains. Has any one run with the silver side panels off would that do the trick? Take Care Keep Rolling I would suggest you ask Ootscoot over in the SYMForum as he would know about changing the filter. I had a look in the manual and it does not seem such a big job. I have a 4WD truck that gets hot during off-roading too. I just put a switch in series with the fan thermo-switch and now when the going gets tough I just switch the fan on permanently. Now looking in the Citycom's factory manual I see the fan thermo-switch is open at room temperature & closes at 95-101C. All you need to do is put a switch in parallel with the thermo-switch & mount the switch somewhere where you can switch it on when it so so hot. I am sure running without the silver panels will help with more air-flow, but is does sound like you have some very hot temperatures. Can be that you fuel is boiling in the tank if it is that hot and causing vapour locks in the pump. What's happening, are you not running your scoot as much as you used too as I seem to be catching you up @ 45000kms on mines clock today??
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nzray
Junior Dawg
Posts: 8
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Post by nzray on Aug 8, 2012 19:45:21 GMT -5
Last night I did my first mod: the air filter. Similar to others’ experience, I feel the scoot is starved of air when I need some extra power going up a long steep hill (pretty common in the city I live in) or passing other vehicles at relatively high speed. While I am waiting for the air filter foam for completing Kiwiscoot’s air filter mod MK II, I decided to do something first. This mod is simple and has given me noticeable difference. What I’ve done is using a wire cutter to remove the metal panel along with attached gauze on the back of the air filter. Based on what I’ve found online, the metal panel does the following: - be a fire barrier in an event of accident,
- keep the paper filter in the right place,
- in some rare cases, prevent deformed paper filter from being sucked into the engine (can be possible, if you change your air filter every two years and it’s always high humidity in your area), and
- restrict airflow - which is why I am keen to get rid of it.
After the first ride with the tweaked air filter, I am happy with the result. The engine seems quicker in response and revving up as well. I will see if this has any impact on fuel consumption later on. IMHO, this mod is worth a shot. It only takes 5 mins of your time and has yielded me noticeable difference, provided you don’t worry about the first three points I listed above. Happy scooting Ray
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Post by phipsd on Aug 9, 2012 3:21:49 GMT -5
Testing done by the tech editor at Cycle; Gordon Jennings showed that the stock paper filters were the most effective at providing the engine with clean air. Oiled gauze like the K&N were hopeless and did a relatively poor job at filtering out grit.
Oiled foam was in-between better than the K&N but not as effective as stock paper. What was interesting was that the most effective were used paper filters; even better than new paper filters.
The cleaner the air going into your engine; the longer it will last, all other things being equal.
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nzray
Junior Dawg
Posts: 8
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Post by nzray on Aug 9, 2012 18:10:50 GMT -5
Hi Shoupdawg, thanks for sharing your experience. Regarding the fuel consumption, I felt it has a lot to do with my riding style.
With stock air filter, the scoot doesn't feel as powerful as it is and I tend to be more conservative when riding. As the result I got better mpg than with my modified filter. This could be just me but it's something you may want to consider as well.
Looking forward to HID mod.
Ray
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Aug 12, 2012 19:02:53 GMT -5
Maybe replacing the mesh of the stock air filter with expanded mesh (like gutter-guard) would be another way to go if you are concerned about the paper being sucked into the engine. IMO the foam is a cost saving as the stock filter gets dirty quite quickly.
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Post by phipsd on Aug 18, 2012 10:55:13 GMT -5
Shoupdawg: I have a paper copy of the article somewhere; you might find it online but I doubt it. Jennings passed away sometime ago and the testing was done about 30 years ago.
Still, air and the abrasive qualities of grit haven't changed much, nor have filters. IMHO changing to less effective filters to gain a slight bit of power or gas mileage is penny wise and pound foolish.
Any engineer worth his salt knows this.
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Post by shoupdawg on Aug 18, 2012 22:52:03 GMT -5
Shoupdawg: I have a paper copy of the article somewhere; you might find it online but I doubt it. Jennings passed away sometime ago and the testing was done about 30 years ago. Still, air and the abrasive qualities of grit haven't changed much, nor have filters. IMHO changing to less effective filters to gain a slight bit of power or gas mileage is penny wise and pound foolish. Any engineer worth his salt knows this. Duly noted. I understand kiwi's an engineer and thus far, his scoot's been getting up there in miles and seems to be working.
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Aug 26, 2012 17:28:26 GMT -5
Shoupdawg: I have a paper copy of the article somewhere; you might find it online but I doubt it. Jennings passed away sometime ago and the testing was done about 30 years ago. Still, air and the abrasive qualities of grit haven't changed much, nor have filters. IMHO changing to less effective filters to gain a slight bit of power or gas mileage is penny wise and pound foolish. Any engineer worth his salt knows this. Duly noted. I understand kiwi's an engineer and thus far, his scoot's been getting up there in miles and seems to be working. It is always good to have both views when changing things - keeps perspective & remind one to check both "for" & "against" aspects as with all things engineering there are always compromises. The Citycom we ride is a sum of compromises, cost vs reliability, performance vs fuel consumption, reliability vs weight, etc. Physics (air, grit, velocity etc.) has not changed in the last 30 years, but technology has. 30 years ago people use 30W engine oil in air filters, now we use sticky oil specially formulated for filtration. Testing done 30 years ago may or may not be relevant today with new foams, oil, etc. Looking at current testing all (I saw) are done with foam & paper filters of the same size at max flow rates. Paper is better at filtration at those testing conditions no doubt about it. Now changing the Citycom like I did is not the same as the above mentioned testing. The foam filter is double if not more in size to the paper filter. That equates to lower air velocity, bigger soil capacity,etc, the Citycom not driven at wide open throttle all the time, etc. so not the same as the above mentioned testing.The results from the testing can be learned from but cannot be applied too directly to the Citycom. That's why I love engineering - the application of science in a balance of compromises. I have found no traces of dust in the airbox between the filer & engine after 30 000+kms, which satisfies "the balance of compromises" IMHO as far as filtration vs maintenance cost vs fuel consumption, etc. goes. In the end it is what we as owners are happy with in doing to our scoots. happy Citycomming Kiwiscoot - where spring has started.
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Post by audioguy1 on Sept 12, 2012 11:28:23 GMT -5
There are a few different ways to bleed. I have a hand vacuum pump that I hook up to the bleed valve and then suck fluid through till it has no air bubbles. You can pressure bleed from the master cylinder, but not everyone has equipment for that either. The cheapest way is to have someone pump the brake lever while you open and close the bleed valve. hook up a clear hose to the valve and then have someone pump the brake. Have them hold the brake in the applied position, then open the bleed valve and let the fluid out. Watch for air bubbles. Close the valve and then they can release the brake lever. Repeat until there are no air bubbles. WARNING! Keep an eye on the master cylinder. It does not hold much fluid, and you can run it dry very easily. Make sure you have a new bottle of DOT 4 brake fluid before you start and familiarize yourself with all the parts.
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Post by symluver on Sept 13, 2012 18:01:12 GMT -5
There are a few different ways to bleed. I have a hand vacuum pump that I hook up to the bleed valve and then suck fluid through till it has no air bubbles. You can pressure bleed from the master cylinder, but not everyone has equipment for that either. The cheapest way is to have someone pump the brake lever while you open and close the bleed valve. hook up a clear hose to the valve and then have someone pump the brake. Have them hold the brake in the applied position, then open the bleed valve and let the fluid out. Watch for air bubbles. Close the valve and then they can release the brake lever. Repeat until there are no air bubbles. WARNING! Keep an eye on the master cylinder. It does not hold much fluid, and you can run it dry very easily. Make sure you have a new bottle of DOT 4 brake fluid before you start and familiarize yourself with all the parts. That really sounds like something out of my Skill Range... Would you mind doing it for me? Yes, i will bring you beer
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Post by chaks on Sept 25, 2012 20:47:30 GMT -5
So I've had a read around and looked at my service history and 14,000kms seems like a big one. I've decided over the next few weeks, I'll take a look at some parts oils and gradually replace them. I've done the engine oil replacement with the 15w-40w, I'm going to change that up after summer season passes. It rode real fine today, but it seemed to take a little longer to warm up the engine than usual. I wonder if it was psychological or not. Looking to purchase in the next few weeks. Gear oil, 85w-140 Brake fluid, dot 3 coolant (No idea what's good) Air filter (no idea what's good, should I just go with the stock?) Drive belt/rollers (Might look into some of the older posts where everyone was looking to replace their rollers and find what worked, if anyone knows a website that ships cheap to Australia that'd be great) So far i've been looking at these two websites, www.exportstrength.com/makinaparts.com/lang-en/108-sym-enAnd I'm keeping an eye out on sales at our local autoshops for consumables, but if anyone knows cheap websites, hit me up! cheers mike
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Post by audioguy1 on Sept 25, 2012 21:34:56 GMT -5
Hey chaks, Makina parts has been mentioned for parts as the prices are reasonable. I think kiwiscoot has ordered from there before. I went looking as the air filter in Canada at the dealer near me was over $100 CDN. The brake fluid is DOT 4 not 3. I use 75w-90 synthetic as gear lube and it has been fine. I have Peak antifreeze in mine but there are many quality coolants. 50-50 mix As for rollers, I just ordered Dr.Pulley sliders as a replacement. See a few replies back for where I bought them. I am looking at Makina for the belt as well.
Just my .02
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