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Post by Kiwiscoot on Oct 14, 2009 14:39:39 GMT -5
Do you have a service manual. I share it here www.4shared.com/account/dir/15412986/3c778837/sharing.html you are welcome to download it. The temperature sensor sits on top of the engine next to the thermostat. The thermostat is in the middle of the photo on top of the engine. The sensor to the left is the temperature gauge sensor and the one to the left is for the ECU. As you can see the thermostat has a little by-pass pipe. I think too much water flows past the thermostat via the little pipe. Well so far with only the bottom 3 slots of the radiator covered the scoot is at temperature when I get to work, when I went out for lunch and when I went home (15 degC). It seems like there is enough cooling for our current weather conditions. I think maybe opening the fourth slot may be where it would be fine for city stop start riding, that will be about 65% of the radiator covered. 6 degC this morning. I am watching the temperature gauge like a hawk as I don't want the scoot to over heat. I did let the scoot heat up (idle of 10 minutes) in the winter, but my fuel consumption went up. In the end I decided to just ride it. Covering the radiator or restricting the radiator outlet air is the way to go I think. Have fun - untill next time... ;D ;D
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Post by argirhs on Oct 21, 2009 8:08:11 GMT -5
hi friend i think that the problem with the screen is not the vibration or the mounting(thats good)but is the air force that reacts to the mounting,so that screen has a speed limit they never told you about or is weak and unable to "win"the force that the air resistans produce,about the mouse pad yes but mine is bigger and i stole it from my small doughter(she use to eat her food on staff like that),and it was the one with the miky maous figure on,it works well and wont come out,allthow it would be better if i put an ammount of silicone just in case
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Post by argirhs on Oct 22, 2009 9:02:44 GMT -5
that sould be thick too so it can retain the "air force",about the by-pass this is what i thought too,because the thermostat is to close to the cylinder the water is to few and can boil faster than if it was on the radiator with more water inside the tube betwen the cylinder and radiator,i think at summer you need all of the radiator surfase,we will see
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Post by argirhs on Oct 24, 2009 1:50:40 GMT -5
hi,yes i think the screen dont let the air "hit"on your body and effect on bikes speed,but i never thought it could be so much(almost 20 klms),about the radiator the strips are just ok,the temperature is working ok and you can take it out easy and quick
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Post by argirhs on Oct 25, 2009 7:42:59 GMT -5
hi friends,yesterday was a no ride day so i changed once more the gear oil and opened the air filter,it was the second time i was opening the air filter and to my disapointment i found dust insade the air intake cover and to the tube that brings the air to the engine,i realise that the dust was coming from the edge left and bottom of the plastic cover as you look it,so i put until i find a solution some vaseline on the rubber ring, also the cvt's foam filter was full of dust,and all these in a bike of 800miles,and winter time in greece,joy rides,and stay vertical
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Oct 26, 2009 14:41:50 GMT -5
when you replace the air-filter cover give it a wriggle to get it to seat into the groove with the rubber gasket. Maybe it was not seated properly. Mine has never leaked like that, but it is easy to get it on without it seating properly. I would definitely look at that as it's not good. The cvt air intake it close to the ground and in the dust path of the front wheel. I vacuum and wash the foam filter with dishwashing liquid detergent every 2000 kms. I am always amazed at how dirty it gets. That seems to be just the nature of the beast. Have fun.
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Oct 29, 2009 5:22:31 GMT -5
that sould be thick too so it can retain the "air force", I put the factory screen back tonight . While I was busy I measured the thickness of the two screens. Factory screen is 5mm thick and the Givi is 4mm thick. The factory screen has a thickened round edge for more strength whereas the Givi is just cut off. I think Givi will have to make this screen thicker as it is just to thin for the job. Looks like it distorts with the wind pressure which cause a stress point between the two mounting holes. Not good.
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Oct 29, 2009 14:32:54 GMT -5
regarding the air-cleaner. I designed ovens and dishwashers and I know what happens with design like this. All designed on CAD down to the last 100th of a mm. So they designed on their CAD a 2-3mm rubber gasket, which should be OK in theory. But plastics twist with the injection moulding process. Now you get the cover going 1-2mm in one direction and the box goinf 1-2mm in the other and the clearances stack up to be 2-4mm. End result is an air leak like you have. Would it help to dig the gasket out and turn it to get it to seat differently. That way maybe a different part of the gasket will seal where the leak was. I have the factory screen on and man does it feel sporty. The Givi screen does spoil the good looks of the scoot and it feels like the scoot does have more go at 80 kph (the highest legal speed I can do on my way to work). Another test for top speed is called for.
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Post by ootscoot on Nov 9, 2009 19:55:57 GMT -5
Interesting to note the balance on this bike - I had put on the "commuter package" that Carter Bros. offered with the Citycom - nice, extremely clear and durable windscreen, large Givi box and a rack to attatch it to...I didn't like the look of the rear rack and box - it blocked the nice brake lights and looked "clunky". so removed it and now I noticed the bike handles so much better! - it seems the larger windscreen was sending the airflow over my head and right into the box...much smoother now, and not much turbulence hitting my back... So as Kiwiscoot says "what a blast"...loving the ride!
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Nov 30, 2009 2:33:52 GMT -5
For those who would like to know. It's not difficult and takes 5 minutes. What you need: 1.) manual - you can download it here scootercommunity.com.au/files/folders/bolwell_sym_pgo/entry78422.aspx2.) you'll need a variator tool. You can make your own out of two 4mm thick/ 1/4" x 18mm/ 3/4" wide flat bar. This is what mine looks like. Don't worry about the extra bolt on mine, my bar was pre-drilled which weakened it. I fitted another bit of bar on the long leg to strengthen it. Long leg 40cm/15", short leg 20cm/7". 8mm hole at ends of long and short leg for 8mm bolt 8mm hole 15cm/6" from end of long leg. 8mm hole 15cm/6" from end of short leg. Using an 8mm X 20mm/ 7/8" bolt and nut mount the short leg to the long leg. add 8mm X 20mm/ 7/8" bolts and nuts to the ends of the tools legs. These fit into the variator holes. I used a thicker nut on the long leg to get the exposed thread part of the two bolts the same length. This helps the tool to sit flush with the face of the variator. 3.) 3/4 inch/19mm socket, 8mm socket, 10mm socket, extension and handle. 4.) Phillips/star screwdriver. 5.) Torque wrench that goes up to 8.5 to 10.5 kgf-m/ 64 - 76lb-ft. Now look at the manual page 8-1. This give an indication of what to expect. Now undo the two screw from the lefthand foot-rest. this helps to get to the bolts in behind. You'll need an 8mm socket now. Just gently pull the the trim panel apart to get the tool in. Undo all the screws. They are all the same length and black. Now pull the black CVT cover off. Just pull the trim away like I do. I find if I pull the top of the CVT cover down at the front it helps to clear the body panels. Now remove the CVT air filter and plastic mesh back. Now may be a good time to clean the sponge filter. I use a vacuum cleaner to get rid of most of the dust before I give it a good wash with dish-washing detergent and luke-warm water. I dry it as good as possible by pressing it between two dry clean rags. Good so far - now on to part two. ;D
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Nov 30, 2009 2:55:50 GMT -5
Now still using the 8mm socket take out all the chrome bolts remember this one here. Now using the 10mm socket take out the two bolts under the air-cleaner box, where it mounts to the CVT. This is the front one. Put your fingers into the front holes and back holes of the cranck case cover and pull and jiggle it. First time may be a bit hard as it has two dowels and the gasket that holds it. You may want to give it a few knocks with a wooden/rubber mallet. Once the joint if cracked a millimeter or 2, check that the gasket is loose all around. If it sticks to both parts like mine, it will get ripped. No biggy, nothing a bit of tape doesn't fix. Now you'll notice that the front mounting of the air-cleaner box (as in the photo above) is over the CVT crank case cover. Push the air-cleaner box up when you pull the cover off to clear this mounting. Now fit your fansy variator tool to look like this. You can turn the variator anti-clockwise easily with your hand to line up the holes with the tool. Never turn the engine clock-wise. Using your 19mm/3/4inch socket and a breaker bar, loosen the variator nut anti-clockwise. Take the nut, washer and front variator face off, push the back variator half in while you do it. . It should look like this. Keep pushing the back variator half in while taking the belt off. Now pushing the variator in with your thumb, get a finger in behind the variator to keep the back plate against the variator. Now take the variator and it's bush off the shaft. Why all this about pressure . It's to keep the rollers from falling out. Congrats you've done it - wasn't difficult was it. On to part three -
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Jan 31, 2010 4:13:10 GMT -5
Well today was another glorious day, so this scootaholic could not stay out of the saddle. My this bug has bitten me almost 1000kms in the last 3 days. The scoot will roll over 15000kms in less than a 100kms. The Maxxis tyres has lasted well, I guess I'll get another 2000kms out of them, then it will be on with a set of Pirelli ST66's. Still on the factory belt which is still within spec's. Only thing changed in 15000 km's was the air filter, indicator unit under warranty, rollers (not needed) with sliders to lower high speed rev's and oil. For those who did not notice, I would like to mention that "I like this scoot !" ;D ;D Miles of smiles to ya! Oh here is a link to todays blast - not exactly as I practised self restraint ( got to do that sometimes) and kept the rev's below 5500 - 80kph. Enjoy scootdawg.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=rides&thread=28689Until next time
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Feb 11, 2010 3:09:59 GMT -5
That is a bit of a bother. I found if I hold the pump handle and direct the fuel right at the hole in the the bottom then I can fill it quite quick. I think the vent system has very small pipes. Directing the fuel at the whole help air to escape around the fuel. I still have to wipe the odd fuel splashes off about 50% of the time tho. My best efforts take 5 minutes plus to get 2 gallons in, so your doing good. Enjoy your ride and post some photos please. We would like to see the baby. Guess yours is the later model with more floor board space and the nice mirrors.
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Post by hualalai on Feb 27, 2010 13:55:05 GMT -5
When changing the spark plug on the Citycom, IGNORE the service manual, which instructs you to remove the luggage box and access the spark plug from above. Utter nonsense, if not impossible. Instead, remove the "left side garnish" (with the fake airscoop) to access the plug. To remove the l.s. garnish, remove one screw toward the rear, then with needlenose pliers, squeeze the rear, molded "forked tab" along the bottom of the l.s. garnish and if you have another set of hands, squeeze the front, molded tab along the bottom of the l.s. garnish, to release the bottom edge of the l.s. garnish. The top edge of the l.s. garnish is held in place with "elbow tabs" (inaccessible and non-squeezable) which allow the l.s. garnish to drop down about 7mm out of matching holes. The front, bottom squeezeable tab requires angled needle nose pliers to reach, so there's a chance of breaking off the front top tab, since when the rear bottom tab releases with applied "persuasion", the energy causes the l.s. garnish to spring laterally off the scoot. The l.s. garnish fits perfectly without the front-most top elbow tab.
The chabudo way (sort of like the Tao of Taiwan street mechanics) is to advise removing the luggage box to avoid explaining that you will break off the front, top tab, if not during the first plug check, then certainly in the next check or replacement.
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Post by skritikos on May 3, 2010 16:00:47 GMT -5
OK, I did the short-circuit thing on the test coupler. The error I get is "13" (1 long, 3 short blinks), Air Intake Temperature sensor, check sensor and cable according to the manual. This sensor is in the airbox, I think I have to have a look there before visiting the mechanic. There is even a way to clear the errors from the ECU without the SYM Diagnostic tool ;D ;D Have you ever seen this sensor Paul? Do I have to remove the side panel too, or just the airbox cover? For once more, thanks for your help! The language used in the manual is very funny, i almost don't get the point in many paragraphs
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Post by skritikos on May 3, 2010 16:33:34 GMT -5
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Post by skritikos on May 4, 2010 6:49:01 GMT -5
those sound like useless mechanics. Man I would give them an earfull! It's even worse than that.... the guy streched the cable of the Air Temp sensor but it seems OK. I unplugged and rerouted to protect it from the luggage box. The real problem is on a thin green cable on the front side of the battery. This cable is connected on battery's negative and it got clamped between the frame and the luggage box. So bad that the green cover ripped and it was on direct contact with the metal frame. I insulated this cable, put some zip-ties to hold the cables better and carefully installed the luggage box. After cleaning the error from the ECU (shorting the test plug ) it seems OK from the 40km I just did. I am a happy SYMer again It's funny that on my extra pushed KTM I have zero problems for 30000km (2 years) and on my utility bike I visited mechanics more than 10 times during the first 2 months But I don't have the energy to argue with stupid mechanics anymore.....
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Post by Kiwiscoot on May 6, 2010 5:45:21 GMT -5
Three things come to mind. 1.) stuck thermostat. Get them to take it out and see if problem persist. If that fixes it, get them to put a new one in. Look on page two of this review to see a photo of where the thermostat is. Make sure they bleed the system of air properly. 2.) did they give the cooling system a good flush out and then a 50/50 mix of anti-freeze/water. 3.) faulty radiator cap. If it can't keep the pressure the scoot will boil. Perhaps the EFI cuts power to the motor when it sees high engine temperatures. Do you have the service manual?? I share it here www.4shared.com/account/dir/15412986/3c778837/sharing.htmlThere are only two sensors in the cooling system. One for the EFI and one for the temperature gauge. None of them can cause the overheat. Only two things control the engine temperature: the thermostat controlls the water flow and the thermo switch controls the fan switch on and engine temperature. In the manual is a well described way of testing the thermo switch. Chapter 17 Page 21. Could be the fan not always going. Sticking, a burnt fan motor winding or bad connection?? Pull the fuse for the fan and re-insert it. That should fix a bad connection there. I would check the cap, thermo switch and thermostat first before starting to dig deeper. Hope this helps.
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Post by Kiwiscoot on May 7, 2010 7:04:43 GMT -5
Hammy another basic thing especially with your scoots mileage: Is the " fins" of your radiator clean? When you look at the radiator from the front of the scoot, is it clean? Could be that it is clogged with muck and not letting the air thru. That is one thing I wash out good with a hose everytime I wash the scoot. Let us know what you find. We want to get you to smile your miles again!! kiwiscoot
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hammy
Junior Dawg
Posts: 7
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Post by hammy on May 11, 2010 23:12:14 GMT -5
The fins ARE dirty -- the only time Tasha gets washed is when it rains, hahaha... I have to check to see if how the air is bled is the same as how my dealer's service manual said to do it.
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hammy
Junior Dawg
Posts: 7
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Post by hammy on May 11, 2010 23:24:47 GMT -5
I am trying to understand the bleed procedure on the bottom of 12-4. At the bottom of 12-4, it says to open radiator cap and start engine when cool and press water hose softly by hand and somehow induce bleeding of air, and then throttle repeatedly until the "coolant surface becomes stable." What does that actually mean, in English?
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Post by Kiwiscoot on May 12, 2010 0:22:46 GMT -5
I am trying to understand the bleed procedure on the bottom of 12-4. At the bottom of 12-4, it says to open radiator cap and start engine when cool and press water hose softly by hand and somehow induce bleeding of air, and then throttle repeatedly until the "coolant surface becomes stable." What does that actually mean, in English? Hammy first things first - 1.) have you washed out the radiator fins?. No use us delving deeper if that is still full of road-dirt. Use a hose and squirt the water in there with as much pressure as possible to dislodge the dirt, don't use a brush as the fins are quite fragile and bend easily. Run the scoot and see if it still does the same thing. 2.) Does the radiator have enough water in. Open the glove box and on the inside right hand side you'll notice the white window for checking it. On mine I can't see anything thru it, so I take the little hatch on top above it off and undo the radiator cap to look down inside. To check undo the screw on the right hand side of the scoot front under the handle bars, you'll notice the little hatch there. Now if it still does overheat , then we need to delve deeper. Do this with the scoot cold (warning only with the scoot cold as you can burn yourself with hot coolant from the engine ): Look at the bottom of page 12-5. Now to see that you need to take the seat and seat-bucket out. Take the 6 10mm bolts out holding the bucket in, lift the bucket out, just be aware that there is a switch on the left middle bottom of the bucket. Under the bucket is a wire that comes from that switch, undo the connector (press the little finger on the side of the connector in and then pull two part apart). Now when you look down you'll see what is in the picture on page 12-5. This is the little pipe you will undo to bleed the air out and you can see the little hose clamp at the point of the arrow. You may need to undo the battery bracket and move it a bit to see the little pipe. It has a little clamp that you can press with a pair of pliers and move along the little pipe. Now to get rid of air we will undo that little pipe (as it is the highest point in the engine cooling system for air to collect in) until coolant run out. Don't take it off just yet as I'll explain the method. First open the radiator hatch and take the radiator cap off. Warning scoot has to be cold!! Method: The idea is to run the scoot but not get the engine hot. 1.) Now start the scoot and let run for 20seconds, rev it once or twice not to high tho. 2.) Switch off, remove that little pipe and let the air out until coolant runs out. 3.) Refit little pipe, check coolant level in radiator. 4.) Repeat that a few times until only coolant comes out. 3 times should be OK. Now fit the little clamp back on its place on the little pipe. Fit everything you took off back where they should go. Now run it and see. Hopefully your away laughing as we would say in New Zealand (meaning your happy again)
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Post by Kiwiscoot on May 12, 2010 15:48:53 GMT -5
Just to clarify, from what I gather you call the temperature gauge a "thermostat". The thermostat is actually a device that regulates the water-flow in the engine. Look on page 12-12(service manual) bottom to see what it looks like. 50-50 car antifreeze is perfect. Just make sure it states that it is for alloy engines, tho all good brands like Mobil, Shell, etc. will be compatable with your scoot. I used a long life one when I drained out the factory stuff. I could not find ready mixed, so I mixed my own 50-50 using consentrated antifreeze and deminealised water (aka as used to top up car batteries). Straight water as a coolant give you the best cooling, but that causes corrosion. Use 50-50 that's the best mix. One thing too, what is the state of your battery? Could be just that your battery is faulty/flat and when the extra cooling fan current drain comes on in traffic the battery can't cope, the voltage drops and the computer goes into a "limping home" mode. Take your scoot to a automotive battery shop/auto-electrician and get him to check the battery. Easy if you remove the cover in the seat bucket before you take it as they have a tester they clamp onto the battery and do the test on the spot. I do take note of your friend's comment about an electrical/computer problems, however we need to start with the basics first. Then get on to that. 1.) air thru the radiator OK a) radiator clean b) cooling fan operational 2.) coolant in radiator a) all air out of system b) enough coolant in system c) circulation - i) water pump working, here we trust the mechanic checked it out right & we assume it's OK as you can ride the scoot on the open road with no problems. ii) thermostat opening - Now this we don't know, but for now we assume it's operating as it should. Very easy to take out and check but we'll get to that later if needs be. iii) restricted flow due to dirt/corrosion in cooling system - we assume for the moment that it's OK in that department too. We'll get to that later if you need to check the thermostat. While we're checking this do take note of the wires of the two sensors right at the little pipe and make sure they are not squashed or gently pull on the plugs to make sure they are plugged in properly. Let us know what you find. Kiwiscoot
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hammy
Junior Dawg
Posts: 7
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Post by hammy on May 12, 2010 20:32:57 GMT -5
One thing too, what is the state of your battery? Could be just that your battery is faulty/flat and when the extra cooling fan current drain comes on in traffic the battery can't cope, the voltage drops and the computer goes into a "limping home" mode. Take your scoot to a automotive battery shop/auto-electrician and get him to check the battery. Easy if you remove the cover in the seat bucket before you take it as they have a tester they clamp onto the battery and do the test on the spot.
I have a voltmeter attached to my battery -- it reads about 12.6V when I start my bike. Never had any problems starting the bike (except when I've lost power)...
1.) air thru the radiator OK a) radiator clean -- gonna do that tomorrow (too cold tonight) b) cooling fan operational -- fan does come on and off 2.) coolant in radiator a) all air out of system -- gonna try and do that tomorrow b) enough coolant in system -- gonna top up with 5050 c) circulation - i) water pump working, here we trust the mechanic checked it out right & we assume it's OK as you can ride the scoot on the open road with no problems. ii) thermostat opening - Now this we don't know, but for now we assume it's operating as it should. Very easy to take out and check but we'll get to that later if needs be. iii) restricted flow due to dirt/corrosion in cooling system - we assume for the moment that it's OK in that department too. We'll get to that later if you need to check the thermostat.
While we're checking this do take note of the wires of the two sensors right at the little pipe and make sure they are not squashed or gently pull on the plugs to make sure they are plugged in properly.
I will certainly check all this. BUT I have to get some extra tools first -- I couldn't unscrew the seat pan bolts with just my bit driver -- need to get an extension for my ratchet!
Thanks u guys!!! While SYM continues to waffle around, I have a feeling you guys will help me out much better.
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Sept 13, 2010 15:40:52 GMT -5
Yes I have, I made a foam air filter for it. Made a very healthy improvement for performance and an improvement to fuel consumption. I'll put some photos up. happy scooting Kiwiscoot PS robprid - do you have a Citycom??
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Sept 13, 2010 16:27:41 GMT -5
Here is my latest modification to my Citycom. I've had to replace the air-filters every 10 000km and found they got very dirty. They are not cheap at NZD62 a go. A washable solution was in the works. I did have a go at it last year - this was the effort. Bottom side This did not work as the surface area was just to small. The scoot felt starved of air and the filter got very dirty in a short while. That was Mark1 filter and needed improvement. Here is Mark2 now. Top side Bottom side Air filter foam You will need the following to make your own: 1.) old Citycom air-filter 2.) expanded metal mesh 3.) Natural cure RTV/ silicon sealant. I used auto windscreen sealant. 4.) Dremel tool or something to cut out old filter 5.) tin snips to cut mesh to shape. 6.) marker pen. 7.) air filter foam and filter oil 8.)sharp scissors to cut the foam I used a Dremel tool to cut the old air filter out leaving an edge around the inside of the filter. Flatten the "ribs" in the plastic to give the mesh a flat surface to lie on. Trace the shape of the inside of the air-filter on the mesh and cut to size. Use the silicon sealant to glue it to the inside of the "frame" you've made. I traced the outside of the filter onto the foam and cut it out. The edge of the foam filter is captive between the edge of the air filter box and the edge of your crafted air filter frame. I've done about a 1000 km with it and will inspect it in another 200km when the scoot needs a service. The scoot feels like it has more up and go and it looks like my fuel consumption has improved too. IMHO it was a worthwhile exercise. happy scooting Kiwiscoot
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Sept 13, 2010 22:29:45 GMT -5
Rich, they are great scoots. I've looked at Tmax, Silverwing, Burgmans and Scarabeo, but the Citycom is a dream as far as maintenance goes. Oil filters, drain plugs and air filter easily accessable and no tupperware to remove. A cheap scoot to maintain in comparrison to above mentioned. enjoy your looking Kiwiscoot
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Sept 19, 2010 17:28:07 GMT -5
Well the scoot will have it's 2nd birthday at the end of the month and had it's 22 000km service this weekend and a good clean and polish - it got a real birthday. I am impressed with the following: 1.) the gearbox oil looked like the day I put it in 20 000kms ago, clear, looked like it could do another 20 000kms. I used synthetic Castrol. 2.) the engine has no oil leaks and looks like the day it left the factory. 3.) All the screws, plugs, oil seals that are disturbed during maintenance work are still factory original. 4.) It uses no oil at all. 5.) even with all year use in all sorts of weather there is no rust on the scoot that I've seen anywhere. 6.) going over the paint I was impressed as it only has a handful of stone chips even tho we have stone grit put on our roads in winter due to black ice. 7.) I was again impressed at how easy maintenance is - at the most 30 minutes. No plastic that needs to be removed. 8.) I checked the valve clearance at 10 000kms and it was still spot on. Most mechanics with SYM experience I've spoken too and read about all say that they have never had a SYM that needed it's valves adjusted. I did not check the valves, but I'll keep a good watch for any noises from them, I'll check them then. At the moment they are as quiet as the day I got the scoot. 9.) cheap consumables like brake pads I've put a 1200kms on the new foam air-filter and it looks like it should last at least 4000kms between cleans. I'm very happy with this mod as it feels like the scoots has more up and go at open road conditions. It gives the scoot a nice throaty idle of a single engine too - I like. smile your miles = SYM kiwiscoot
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Sept 20, 2010 20:48:09 GMT -5
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Sept 24, 2010 22:13:41 GMT -5
I do not have. I plan to buy. I am researching to find out the cost of maintenance. Sorry my english, I'm using google translator. Just understand Portuguese. See ya! Good you do well. Maintenance very cheap: 1.) oil change = 1 liter every 3000 km (me do it every 2000 km) 2.) No oil filter - you save there 3.) air filter - every 10 000-12 000 km $62 ( New Zealand dollars) 4.) brakes - every 10 000-12 000 km - use cheap brake pads. $20 5.) tires - every 12 000 - 15 000 km $250 ( New Zealand Dollars) for a set for front and back 6.) drive belt - 15000 - 20 000 km - $200 ( New Zealand dollars) Hope this helps Kiwiscoot
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