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Post by irish44395 on Aug 21, 2008 14:19:11 GMT -5
fortunately my boss has a shot memory. didn't say a thing. Someone shut it down most likely he did when he closed the gate for the nite life is still good lol
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Post by irish44395 on Sept 7, 2008 9:12:22 GMT -5
Slow I was at my dealer yesterday and he was replacing a tail light on a 125 any ways I found out the two dummy light are all wired for europe and the slug eye light were put on for the usa to make dot happy. my thought are if I put amber bulb in there they should work with the turn singles like the front, would you know off hand the size of those bulbs? I thinking if you do I can get the bulbs before I take it apart so i only have to do it once or I'll have to fire up the pickup to go get bulbs
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Post by slowscootin07 on Sept 7, 2008 23:51:31 GMT -5
Further up in the review, I expalined on how they're already wired. The two bulbs by the tail/brake light assembly and the ones in the steering wheel have dummy bubs in them. I made my own amber bulbs and replaced them. At idle, the extra draw with the extra bulbs put in made a little bit of a headlight dimming when flashing. I've since switched to all LED's and every light except the dash and headlight are LED's.
If you want to buy the regular amber ones, expect to pay 6.50 each and I'm not kidding. I'll send you a bunch of spare ones of mine if you want for free, just pay the postage.
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Post by irish44395 on Sept 8, 2008 9:39:32 GMT -5
Thanks Slow... I did find amber bulbs at auto zone for 2.99 apair so I want ahead an got them I want leds but have to wait for work to pick up . My hd has the bulbs in the steering already so I just needed the two . I read the review and some how I guess it didn't regester Thanks again
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Post by slowscootin07 on Sept 14, 2008 20:32:58 GMT -5
Oh boy do we have a lot of goodies to talk about. Installment 7 should be up very shortly so stay tuned
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Post by Erik3tb on Sept 17, 2008 14:16:10 GMT -5
Ready and waiting for part VII.
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Post by slowscootin07 on Sept 17, 2008 23:49:57 GMT -5
Well here is installment 7 of my ongoing review and I have a lot of ground to cover, but I won't put it all in. After all, I gotta’ keep the audience on their seat and wanting more and more---muuuaaahahaha :þ
I've breached 2,000 miles and have had no issues or problems with performance or even so much as a loose screw that needs to be tightened except one. SYM uses a crapload of loctite on every single screw and nut, so be careful when you are trying to remove something. If you use a loosely fitting tool, then you'll most likely strip it or round it off. I found this out the hard way, and I don't know how much they used, but I swear they welded one of them on. I had no choice but to cut it off and drill it out. Now granted this is a simple body panel screw, but still, it was on freakin' tight and no strip outs, turbo sockets, cutting a slot in it, or any other method would remove a simple philips head screw.
LED Update: I've found better LED's for the front marker lights (#194) and have installed them in the place of the current ones. Instead of the single inverted cone LED, I now have installed two 27 LED SMT (surface mount technology) bulbs. They fire with 24 LED's radially and 3 axially (forward). I chose the radial design, as the intended purpose of these marker lights isn't to project light forward, but to light up the reflector housing instead. They weren't cheap and cost 33.00ish shipped for a pair. Again, I got these from the eBay store of V-LED. They make a big difference compared to the decorative single LED light I had it and actually are far brighter than the original filament bulbs. The design of the front end is that amber ones may be used for the lights without saturating into the headlight, but I chose white. Like the previous ones and like all white LED's, they aren't a true white, but more of a bluish-white color. For DOT purposes, they are considered white and are legal for on road usage as marker lights in a head light assembly or front facing only. I'm also removing the side marker reflectors and adding 2½ 5-LED reflector/marker lights that I purchased from eBay. A set of 2 amber and 2 red were under 20.00 shipped and will mount quite easily into the main lighting circuit. I'm also going to remove the rear reflector and add a LED lit reflector tied into the taillight. Since I use a Rear Alert flasher I don't want to tie it in with the brake light, but let it burn steady as a marker light. Once I get a top case, I'll wire that brake light into the flashing circuit. Having a brake light on the fender a foot from the ground doesn't make much sense, but I may change my mind later. Even though I have a nice LED flashlight in my toolbox, I’m also going to add a switched array of LED's strategically placed in the engine compartment for when I need extra lighting and both hands. The array will be directly wired into the battery in case I lose the electrical system for some reason and it can be unmounted and moved around a bit. This will help with simple inspections or with repairs that require both hands.
Performance upgrades: I've been getting a lot of questions regarding performance upgrades for the HD200. Although there aren't many HD200 specific performance upgrades, the HD engine uses many GY6 equivalent parts such as the coil, CDI and carb setup. Just about any GY6 muffler will work, but you'll have to be creative with the straps. Also make sure that if you do go with a generic muffler, that you get one for a GY6 big bore upgrade. MRP makes an exact fit for the HD125/200 and it's classified as a GY6 type-2 performance stainless steel muffler. I'm not sure what GY6 type 2 means, but I can presume that since the HD motor is a 171cc motor, that means it's perhaps a little bigger and more free flowing. Some one has told me that a type 2 GY6 is a better built, internally, motor sometimes referred to a GY6B. You can't order MRP parts online and have to go through a dealer using their dealer locater. Remember, the HD200 motor is not a bored 150cc motor, but is actually a bored and stroked 125cc. This loosely means that internally the motor is about as strong as it's going to get and the only other performance upgrades would be external mods. I could be mistaken about internal upgrades being fruitless, but consider this; 15 hp out of a 125cc engine is not bad at all.
An exhaust, an OKO 30 mm CV carb with auto choke/enrichener, MRP intake, a MRP no-rev limit CDI, a high power Bando coil and free flow air filter ran me $631.00 with the muffler being most of the cost so it' wasn’t cheap. A slide type carb would’ve added greater performance, but the choke is manual and I don't know if I wanted to monkey with that. On the other hand, a slide carb without the auto choke is ½ the cost of a CV with the choke. I don’t have the parts yet but will have them installed, tuned and RTR for the 8th part of my review. The HD's already come with a basic GY6 Bando coil and a Taigene CDI, but I cannot find any information on if it's rev limited or not. I called the company that makes them and they said they don't make them even though their website says they do. To sum it up, they were of no help at all. I still can't find the link to where I read that SYM makes the Dr. Pulley variator, but looking at the whole picture on how the HD was put together, I don't see why it wouldn't have a performance part already. It may be a total waste of money adding a performance variator and/or clutch. Since the HD200 uses 14½-gram rollers, it maintains a pretty steady power band up to its top speed. Lighter rollers would increase acceleration in the low to mid range but would increase the time it takes to get to top speed. Since the HD gets to 55-60mph in about 10 seconds and about 20 more seconds to get to full-steam, lighter rollers may not be the way to go for those, like me, that regularly travel at highway speeds.
Here are the performance mods that I've done so far and what is being planned. I've divided them into four categories: spark, fuel, exhaust and CVT/clutch.
Spark: Done: I've purchased a NGK Iridium plug CR8E-IX Planned: A Bando performance ignition coil and a MRP no-rev limit CDI are on their way. There’s nothing else to do spark wise as the HD motor has an 11-coil stator/magneto generator to begin with.
Fuel: Done: I've currently done nothing. Planned: An OKO 30mm CVK carb, a MRP high performance intake, and an Emgo 48mm high flow air filter are on the way.
Exhaust: Done: I've removed the test port plug from the exhaust pipe ahead of the muffler and it gives it a throatier sound. The performance gain was minimal and has not leaned out the engine. Planned: I have a MRP stainless steel performance muffler on the way.
CVT/Clutch: Done: Nothing Planned: Nothing until the new carb is tuned and then maybe some roller testing. I don’t even plan on doing any roller work until I change the belt at 3,000 miles.
Miscellaneous: 100-watt amplifier and marine grade speakers are on the way. No radio, but mp3 ready.
I’ve run into a bit of a roadblock with the rear brake conversion to disk and that’s the cost. It will be plenty for sure with most of it being the fabrication of the caliper bracket and the rear rim tapping could be close to 600.00 without all the other parts needed. There’s nothing wrong with the drum at all but I’d rather have a disk. $850.00 is a bit of a chunk of change and that is what the conversion could realistically cost.
Since I don’t have the engine upgrade parts yet, I’ll amend this review with pictures once I get them. Installment 8 will be the best installment yet and step-by-step photos and videos of my progress will be included. I’m going to see what exactly this motor is capable of and I’m going to share it with you.
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Post by dogsled on Sept 18, 2008 14:34:04 GMT -5
Very nice comprehensive review. I have had my HD200 for a few weeks, and it is great. One issue, the engine never seems to warm up unless I am idling alot in hot weather. Almost like the thermostat isn't there? What can I expect for engine temp, mine gauge does not go much above dead cold. thx
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Post by slowscootin07 on Sept 19, 2008 10:51:07 GMT -5
And you have a problem with running cold??? Seriously though, a cooler running engine is a happier engine and the HD runs cool for sure. Unless you're in a traffic jam or doing a lot of stop and go, or cruising at highway speeds, your gauge will rarely get to the ½ way point. Once it does get there, the fan will kick in and it will cool it back down. I regularly travel at highway speeds and at 65-70mph I usually stay below the mid range of the gauge. If I travel at 75 then it does run warmer, but I've never gotten too hot. Lynn and I travel at highway speeds of 65-70 for hours and nothing so much as a whimper of heating up occurs. The Fire Drake will usually take about 10-15 minutes of idling before the fan kicks in and then it knocks it back down to just above the first mark by the "C." Basically to sum it up, there's nothing wrong with your engine as you say it will warm up in hotter weather at idle. Just make sure that your fan kicks in at about the ½ way mark and it takes it back to the "C" hash mark and remember that this is a cooler running engine.
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Post by melodys39 on Sept 22, 2008 17:17:39 GMT -5
I have enjoyed following your quest to improve the HD200. You sure have a lot of needed knowledge. And everyone can use that knowledge to improve their ride. I had a Hd200, but when we went to the dealer for regular maintenance, we started looking at the RV250. For all of the additions that we wanted to make, we decided to trade in the Hd200 for the RV250. It has a little more power, but it handles really nice. I hope someone like you will give the RV250 a complete review like you did!
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Post by slowscootin07 on Sept 23, 2008 21:37:04 GMT -5
Thank you for your kind words Melody and by you saying "we" I can presume that you do a lot of two-up riding. I'm sure the RV will be more comfortable in doing so. and i'm sure you'll love it too. The HD can do it no problem, but is more of a sport model than a cruiser and not too passenger comfort minded.
As an FYI and in ammendment to this review, the coil and exhaust are ready for local pickup, The carb is at the PO, I have the CDI and I've already tinkered with the free flow filter placement. Once I see what jets are in the new carb it may be as much as a plug and play, but that'll be in part 8.
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Oct 20, 2008 23:09:00 GMT -5
slowscootin07 I enjoy your reviews. Seems the horns are the only "weak link in the Sym chain". My Citycom's horn stoped working in the first 300kms, but was fixed by the dealer. We all seem to be enjoying our Sym machines a lot. 1600kms of fun in 3.5 weeks can't be bad and I'll try not to smile as much as summer is on it's way and it is bug time now. lol
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Oct 21, 2008 5:31:53 GMT -5
You mentioned in a previous update that you had to pry the lights apart to get the led lamps in. This tore the gaskets around the lights. I hope I remember your update correctly. Well I tried to put led lamps into the back of my Citycom. On the Citycom there is an access panel under the back fender which gives access to the backlight. lightbulbs. Just wondered if your HD200 has one too. This may save you from tearing the gaskets again. The Citycom's backlight cluster seems to be one unit, the red lens are glued with a white doubleside tape/gasket to the reflector. Interesting that you came to the same conclusion that your HD200 has a rev limiter. My Citycom is limited to 8250 revs (130kph gps - 145 speedo), it just pegs there, downhill or with a wind from behind. Redline is @ 9000rpm. I must say I enjoy your review immensly.
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crybaby
Junior Dawg
Hatchet face
Posts: 5
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Post by crybaby on Oct 22, 2008 23:16:53 GMT -5
I've breached 2,000 miles and have had no issues or problems with performance or even so much as a loose screw that needs to be tightened except one. Nice review, however with the mods you are planning to install, the current subject titled "SYM HD200 an extensive review" will no longer apply. Perhaps a new thread titled "SYM HD200 performance upgrades" is in order?
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Post by slowscootin07 on Oct 23, 2008 22:30:50 GMT -5
You mentioned in a previous update that you had to pry the lights apart to get the led lamps in. This tore the gaskets around the lights. I hope I remember your update correctly. Well I tried to put led lamps into the back of my Citycom. On the Citycom there is an access panel under the back fender which gives access to the backlight. lightbulbs. Just wondered if your HD200 has one too. This may save you from tearing the gaskets again. The Citycom's backlight cluster seems to be one unit, the red lens are glued with a white doubleside tape/gasket to the reflector. Interesting that you came to the same conclusion that your HD200 has a rev limiter. My Citycom is limited to 8250 revs (130kph gps - 145 speedo), it just pegs there, downhill or with a wind from behind. Redline is @ 9000rpm. I must say I enjoy your review immensly. I didn't even check for a back access since I knew the LED's wouldn't fit though the back of the taillight assembly. When I took the lens off, the rubber rope seal broke. I did fix it and it is as good as new. It was sealed in there good for sure and it will most likely break if you try to take off the lens. My redline was about 7800 even though the max hp rating is at 8000. With the no-rev CDI, I was pushing about 8700, give or take a few hundred.
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Post by slowscootin07 on Oct 23, 2008 23:17:30 GMT -5
I've breached 2,000 miles and have had no issues or problems with performance or even so much as a loose screw that needs to be tightened except one. Nice review, however with the mods you are planning to install, the current subject titled "SYM HD200 an extensive review" will no longer apply. Perhaps a new thread titled "SYM HD200 performance upgrades" is in order? Not a bad idea as I was thinking of that myself. +1 bone to you:) I'll give you another one if you dice that image from, "Killer Klowns From Outer Space." ewww creeepy :0
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Post by edk187 on Dec 17, 2008 1:36:21 GMT -5
Jeff, I have followed your thread for a long time, you have contacted me regarding the rear disk brake I uinstalled. Now I am doing similar upgrade to the fuel syatem as you did. Instead of the CV carburetor I choose the OKO 30mm flatslide with manual choke. Here are my questions : What do you do with the heat exchanger, since flatslide carb doesn't have any provision to install it. What do you do with two air hoses comming from the original air box, your web page does not address that.
Some idea : New Emgo filter can be hidden in the original air box if it is gutted to provide enough air. It would also silence the intake noise. Some 2" ABS pipe and elbows can provide nice air duct, it is black so fits the rest.
Looking forward to your reaction.
Ed
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Post by slowscootin07 on Dec 17, 2008 13:16:12 GMT -5
Ed- One way or another, you're going to have to hook that exchanger up to the carb or fashion some other kind of cooling pipe for it. It is directly tied into the thermostat and if you cap it off, you'll probably have some cooling issues. That's one reason I didn't use a flatslide as I couldn't find one with the mounting for it.
There should be three vacuum lines coming from the airbox besides the intake snorkel and the fresh air inlet.
1)The PAIR system is the larger one. I disconnected and removed the system and capped off the exhaust intake from it. I capped it at the metal pipe end that the PAIR valve was hooked onto and not on the motor end.
2) The rear gearbox vent tube I ziptied to the shock tower away from any debris or possible water intake from the road.
3) The third one is for the crankcase breather and I left it open connected at the PCV by the oil catch tube/PCV valve assembly.
I also had to cap off a spare nipple on the intake that used to go to the PAIR. Don't forget about that one or you'll have a vacuum problem.
The only thing I can think of in fabricating a cooler mount is to use a length of aluminum tubing on the exchanger that is plugged on one end. Be careful what type of metal you use as the wrong type may cause electrolysis within the coolant and cause pitting within the cooling system and especially the radiator.
review 8 should be up shortly as soon as I'm done with the website mods
Hope this helps you Ed. BTW I still don't have the jets tuned yet because of our lovely Chicago weather but they seem to be right on the money with the ones that came with the carb.
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Post by edk187 on Dec 17, 2008 22:38:11 GMT -5
Thank you for a quick response. I will follow your ideas. I finally did something different. I pulled Keihin 30mm CVT out of my KYMCO P250 and put it on HD200 following your method. Than Kymco gets a new flatslide OKO 30.
I am surprised you did not remove the intake extension from the cylinder. It required quite bit of milling to match 30mm carb outlet and provide a smooth transition to the cylinder elbow I.D. It was also pretty rough. ( replaced the blind bolt with new 10mm head bolt ) I did not have a problem getting the carb in under the frame cross member.
Used the aluminum gooseneck and terminated it with the filter inside of the original air box, after removal of the rubber duct to the carb and the snorkel. The outer bulky cover was replaced with the clear Lexan "window" just over the orig. air filter housing. It looks pretty trendy !
Thank you again, I will keep you posted, next time I include pictures.
Ed
P.S. I am also running the HHO system on this HD200, making 85 - 90MPG. Hydrogen gives it also more power, it should be a really good now ! I am in Arizona, so riding never stops.
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Post by slowscootin07 on Dec 19, 2008 0:30:38 GMT -5
I am surprised you did not remove the intake extension from the cylinder. It required quite bit of milling to match 30mm carb outlet I'm confused. I didn't have to remove the intake extension from the cylinder because I can't since it is part of the cylinder. Doesn't yours look like this??? If you're talking about the rubber connector; then the new 30mm OKO is the same outer diameter as the original 25mm so it fit nicely into it. The internal diameter is different and actually, the OKO is really 31.something. If you look at the picture below, it may look as if the new carb has a bigger outer diameter on the outside, but it is an optical illusion and they're the same o.d. (the 30mm is on the left) On this carb, the main PITA in getting around the crossmember was the presence of the accelerator pump on the new one as shown in the above photo. What exactly did you have to mill???
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Post by edk187 on Dec 20, 2008 1:08:26 GMT -5
Jeff, the intake ruber connector is only a half ruber, the front part of it is aluminum and that required milling to increase its inside diameter gradually together with the ruber portion and also to remove the internal steps. Also it was pretty rough inside. I achieved pretty smooth transition from the carb 30 mm down to the engine intake elbow I. D.
I am still waiting for air filters, got stuck with USPS somewhere.
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Post by slowscootin07 on Dec 21, 2008 16:14:18 GMT -5
I really don't have too much to report in the review aspect of the HD200 other than it's pretty much down for the winter here. Next spring I'll have a camera mounted for some on the road shots just for fun. I did not winterize it fully, but I did add Stabil to the tank and changed the oils and antifreeze/coolant. I have nearly 2900 miles on it since this June and have enjoyed every single mile of it without any troubles. Most notably, I have checked the valve clearance a couple of times and believe it or not, they don't need it yet. I contacted SYM in regards to what the normal schedule is and they said that even though the recommended adjustment is about 1,800 miles, it's not uncommon to go 5,000 miles without adjusting them. I personally don't buy into that, but the proof is in the pudding so to say. For the record, both intake valves and both exhaust valves specs are .10mm to .14mm. (.004"-.005") for the clearances. I have taken The Fire Drake out a few times this winter when the temperature and road conditions permit, but nothing more than letting it warm up a good 20 minutes, then riding it for 10-20 miles or so. It starts right up in less than a second in the cold, even today when the actual temperature is hovering between 0 and -6. This part of my review and upgrades has some new webpages in it showing my carb upgrade and exhaust upgrade so be sure to check them out. I've also made a quick link section for the past upgrade pages and videos on the bottom of the page for your ease in browsing for them. www.jeffs-hotsauces.com/firedrakehome.htmOnce the snow is gone for a little bit, I'm going to bring it back inside and install the stereo amp, speakers and do a couple of more neat additions so don't go too far away I'll also show how to replace the CVT belt and check out the rollers for wear. I still haven't fine tuned the carb jetting yet, but the ones that came with the new one seem to be right on. Before I get into that I know the belt has to be replaced as I've lost a few MPH on my top end and 2900 miles seems a good run for a belt anyway. Until next time- happy scooting
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Post by edk187 on Dec 25, 2008 15:36:07 GMT -5
Jeff, I just finished the project and test rode my HD200. It runs great ! Lot of power. In addition I installed HHo generator. The EMGO filter is covered by Lexan / intake elbows cover..
You can see photos on - thesymgang - Forum, on EDK SYM HD200 photo album. ( It is quite complicated to post pictures here )
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Post by edk187 on Dec 25, 2008 15:40:05 GMT -5
Jeff, I just finished the project and test rode my HD200. It runs great ! Lot of power. In addition I installed HHo generator. The EMGO filter is covered by Lexan / intake elbows cover..
You can see photos on - thesymgang - Forum, on EDK SYM HD200 photo album. ( It is quite complicated to post pictures here )
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Post by slowscootin07 on Feb 8, 2009 23:07:43 GMT -5
Well here it is review/upgrade part 9. I just this weekend was able to go on a few rides this winter and loved every mile of it especially since we have installed a new sound system. It has very good sound and can really blast, but I don't like subjecting others to my music. At 75 mph with a full face I can still hear it nicely. I'm a bit dissapointed by the belt longetivity at 2800 miles, but most has been at 55+ speeds and most of it has been two up too so I can't complain. I'm no longer able to reach my top of 90mph indicated/84 actual mph's and can only hold 75-78. My off line is a bit slower from 0-20 at full bore but mid range is fine. I know I'm running rich with the new carb and my jet kit should be here anyday so I can down jet the carb soon. I know that's hurting a bit right now, but the belt is the issue with only 1mm of "service life" left. I've discovered a trick of sorts and that is to take a marker and mark your CVT and clutch pulleys. This will tell you how high on the pulley your belt is actually going on them and give you a good indication of your CVT health per se. This is one way that I know The belt needs replacement. Sorry, but screw that Kevlar crap, I'm going with a Normal Bando just like the one that came with it. It's also the time to flush the coolant out and replace it according to the manual. The Ph and the protection specific gravity ratings are still in spec and considering we've hit -20-30 F actual this year so far, it's all good. Any speeds that I try to maintain above 75 in the summer will start to run me hot in about 10 minutes. I've never overheated but have gotten close with a 80 mph 10 mile run, but at full bore and top speed, I get about 5 minutes until I have to back down to 75. You have to keep with traffic here and 55 means 75 so I'm plenty good with doing that speed and having a nice reserve when needed. I don't want to break any land speed records and never will, but I bought a ½ gallon of Engine Ice coolant which is better than Water Wetter and more expensive but The Fire Drake is worth it. We'll see how much it really does at higher speeds. Well, enough for this ranting and off to the review you go. Here's the link. www.jeffs-hotsauces.com/stereo.htm
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Post by jake318 on Feb 8, 2009 23:23:53 GMT -5
Slow my son and I are renting 2 SYM HD200s for Daytona 200 and riding them down south Florida if we dont get run over flat by cars ill give you a report lol. jake
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Post by slowscootin07 on Feb 8, 2009 23:44:07 GMT -5
Don't get too spoiled, you just might not want to give them back :þ
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Post by edk187 on Feb 11, 2009 22:55:22 GMT -5
Jeff, I made the carb mods on two scooters. SYM HD 200 and Kymco P250. SYM got 30mm CV carb - same mod as yours. Kymco 250 got 300 cc Nikasil big bore kit and OKO flat-slide 32 mm carb.
SYM performance improved only marginally compared to Kymco. The CV carburetor does not allow quick acceleration.
The flat-slide made a huge difference. Its response is so quick that one must be careful. Also deceleration is fast and very helpful using as an engine brake.
I strongly recommend installing 30mm flat-slide on your HD 200, it woukld be day and night difference. The manual choke was not a problem, a simple push pull cable works great.
I am going to replace all these CV carbs. Autotech355 will ship these carbs next day and in four days it is here.
After you experience the flatslide there is no going back !
Ed
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Post by slowscootin07 on Feb 13, 2009 15:18:11 GMT -5
One thing that you may have not taken into consideration is that with the big bore kit is that your Kymco is now almost double the cc's as the HD, 171.2 vs 300, so it will have more snap. I'm considering the flatslide, but since this isn't just a " weekend toy" and my daily driver, I don't want to have to monkey with the flatslide all the time which is almost a given with them.
Have you run into any temperature control problems with capping off that heat exchanger to the carb and what jets are you running in the CV on the SYM and on the flatslide in the Kymmie.
I just got my new jets today and have 112,115,118,120,122,125,130,132 and 138. I believe the jets in this carb are around 138 but they aren't marked so I don't really know exactly. Since the OEM 25mm had a 102 in, I'm thinking on trying the 120 first but that may still be a bit too big. The pilot OEM is 35 and the new one is 38 so they're most likely fine.
NOTE: for those that are reading this thinking that on a GY6 a 125 jet is normal and I should go higher because it's a 171cc, don't forget that this engine is water-cooled and you don't need as big of jets.
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Post by edk187 on Mar 11, 2009 22:22:10 GMT -5
Ed- One way or another, you're going to have to hook that exchanger up to the carb or fashion some other kind of cooling pipe for it. It is directly tied into the thermostat and if you cap it off, you'll probably have some cooling issues. That's one reason I didn't use a flatslide as I couldn't find one with the mounting for it. Jeff, I have to correct you - what you describe above has nothing to do woth cooling. It is simply carburetor heater. It improves emissions. Some bikes have electric heater on their carbs. You simply bypass the carb and splice the hose. You don't need any heater. I completed the exchange for 30mm flatslide carb, also removed vacuum fuel pump - not needed since gravity works fine in case of HD 200. I installed in line fuel cock to be able to shut off fuel in case of any work on the carb. The main jet is #138. The engine really screams now. I will post some pictures later. Ed
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