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Post by ScootSpecs on Jun 4, 2009 23:28:47 GMT -5
Hello folks, I am an avid 2 stroke scooter builder ( my Blog) and have owned many "50cc" scooters, but getting an itch to try 4stroke  I work at a motorcycle/scooter shop and am very familiar with all sorts of scooters in general but lack some specific GY6 info that I hope yall can indulge me in. The gy6 I've just found is a 2006 Strada 150cc, looks like THIS ONE but 150cc and with nearly 8k miles First off I'd like to know how this particular GY6 performs at prolonged WOT, not saying I will ride like that all the time but I would REALLY like to know if it can handle it. What mods would you guys recommend for such conditions? And how is the reliability over time and at this mileage? Please note and do not recommend I go bigger, I have no interest whatsoever in "maxi" scoots and would just buy a motorcycle beyond this size. I prefer light, stealth and agile  Responses greatly appreciated  |
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Post by usfmarine on Jun 5, 2009 0:28:38 GMT -5
I do not have the precise data you are looking for, just my own personal anecdote. On my 150cc GY6 157QMJ (Flyscooters il bello) I ride primarily WOT at ~60mph to and from work. I just passed the 2,500 mile mark and my scooter has had zero engine issues. This is not a stock setup, I have a performance muffler, I removed the airbox, and upgraded to a flatslide carb. I can't speak to my setup several years from now, but right now it is going strong after riding it hard for its first 2,500 miles.
I'm sure one could prolong the life of any GY6 by taking steps to keep it effectively cooled. If you plan on running it hard all the time, I would suggest investing in an oil cooler. I think heat is the primary enemy.
I think the more senior dawgs here will be able to opine about an 8k engine.
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Post by odie2ooo on Jun 5, 2009 1:23:59 GMT -5
I agree with usfmarine. I rode my 150cc gy6 scooter basically wide open all the time. I had exhaust, air filter,rejetted carb, and racing variator. 2200 miles and would still be going if the crank hadn't stripped where the variator goes on. As long as you keep it cool and I wouldn't go over 8k rpm it should give you plenty of service.
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Post by phaze on Jun 5, 2009 7:05:34 GMT -5
wot is my motto lol
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Post by kz1000st on Jun 5, 2009 7:24:31 GMT -5
I wish I had their luck. I ran mine at WOT for 1250 miles and shattered two valve springs. Maybe I had defective springs from the sound of it, maybe it was the bad exhaust pipe. I'm riding easier now and "Riding like I want to make it Home"
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Post by harrywr2 on Jun 5, 2009 7:54:49 GMT -5
Keep it under 8K RPM. If your roller weight are right you'll end up just under 8,000 RPM at WOT. If they are too light you'll be revving past 8K and thats when you get into engine issues.
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Post by kliff on Jun 5, 2009 14:46:40 GMT -5
Keep it under 8K RPM. If your roller weight are right you'll end up just under 8,000 RPM at WOT. If they are too light you'll be revving past 8K and thats when you get into engine issues. LOL....or, like in my case....gain weight! 260lbs, stock CDI, stock weights, 7400rpms on flat ground.... just remember to roll out of the throttle on downhills..then the "extra weight" I carry can spell 8K+ real quick...LOL |
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Post by ScootSpecs on Jun 5, 2009 15:07:00 GMT -5
Gotcha, good stuff so far. Keeping it under 8k would certainly be countert intuative to how I've built my high revving 2strokes but totally makes sense. Oil cooler sounds like a nice idea, I was thinking larger Fan too, colder/iridium plug, and upgraded variator would CERTAINLY like to hear the senior dawgs take on the high mileage of 8000miles.. |
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Post by nicko31 on Jun 5, 2009 17:06:16 GMT -5
I 've clocked 3550 so far on my VENTO Cone so far most of which have been on the main jet the whole time.I think I have 14 gram weights with a uni filter and bigger main jet, the rest is stock so I really don't know my RPM but I ride it back and fourth to Work 30 miles round trip. My past has always been with two strokes so this is only my second four stroke I've had and I really miss the two stroke simplicity and ease of maintenance.
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Post by indy50 on Jun 5, 2009 17:09:19 GMT -5
I rode mine like a rented mule.... wot all the time 9500rpm for long runs Broke a valve spring, killing the top end after 3200 mi
As previously stated, Keep it under 8000 r's and it should last a long while with proper maintenance
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Post by jamescell on Jun 6, 2009 18:54:02 GMT -5
I agree with usfmarine. I rode my 150cc gy6 scooter basically wide open all the time. I had exhaust, air filter,rejetted carb, and racing variator. 2200 miles and would still be going if the crank hadn't stripped where the variator goes on. As long as you keep it cool and I wouldn't go over 8k rpm it should give you plenty of service. I just had that happen to me too! Curse the chinesium! I was so stunned the the crank is made of cheap steel! I ran a die down the cranks threads and bought a higher grade nut, it's holding pretty good now. |
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Post by ScootSpecs on Jun 6, 2009 21:49:05 GMT -5
After negotiating a price I just could NOT refuse ...drumroll... FIRST official 4stroke scooter that I can call my OWN sits in my garage! Proud new owner ;D Ran out of daylight, but here's some quick snaps:   And amidst my on-going 2stroke projects   |
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Post by ScootSpecs on Jun 7, 2009 23:55:00 GMT -5
so what yall think? the replies stopped all da sudden  |
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Post by odie2ooo on Jun 8, 2009 0:41:45 GMT -5
looks good man. In my experience the 4 strokes usually feel slower even if they really aren't because the 2 stroke feels so peppy but with a little upgrading the 4 stroke will be just as peppy if not a more.My comparisons are using dirtbikes because I've had both 2 and 4 stroke dirtbikes but only have 4 stroke scooters. There are a lot of performance parts for the gy6 and its pretty easily modded. Hope you have fun with it and just in case it hasn't been said yet welcome to the pound
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Post by ScootSpecs on Jun 8, 2009 8:24:15 GMT -5
looks good man. In my experience the 4 strokes usually feel slower even if they really aren't because the 2 stroke feels so peppy but with a little upgrading the 4 stroke will be just as peppy if not a more.My comparisons are using dirtbikes because I've had both 2 and 4 stroke dirtbikes but only have 4 stroke scooters. There are a lot of performance parts for the gy6 and its pretty easily modded. Hope you have fun with it and just in case it hasn't been said yet welcome to the pound Thanks Odie! I am looking forward to it Formal introduction is still to come lol |
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Post by scootin4lyfe on Jun 8, 2009 17:49:52 GMT -5
Looks really good indeed. I just hit 1,000 miles on mine today, 70% of that WOT, so far so good with minor things here and there, none of which were engine problems though  . |
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Post by kliff on Jun 8, 2009 18:07:45 GMT -5
Looks really good indeed. I just hit 1,000 miles on mine today, 70% of that WOT, so far so good with minor things here and there, none of which were engine problems though . Pics....we need pics! |
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Post by scootin4lyfe on Jun 8, 2009 18:27:09 GMT -5
Looks really good indeed. I just hit 1,000 miles on mine today, 70% of that WOT, so far so good with minor things here and there, none of which were engine problems though . Pics....we need pics! I took care of that horrrrible idea I had to keep that m/c exhaust on it. Its just a normal lookin scoot now with a shaved muffler ......And there ya be sir s619.photobucket.com/albums/tt273/scootin4lyfe/ |
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Post by JR on Jun 8, 2009 19:58:15 GMT -5
It's already been mentioned about the rpm's and if you don't have a tach get one!! www.tinytach.com/tinytach/index.phpThese folks that have been reporting these higher speeds at WOT without a clue as how many rpms they are turning are asking for a short lived engine experience. That's the way it is in all of the engine world scooter and auto alike. On my 150 Bali I dropped the variator weights from 14 to 13 gram for better hill climbing and still held the rpms to right at 7900 max but due to rising gas prices I have lately opened up the muffler a touch, fine tuned the carb and by doing so have raised the MPG 12 MPG but also have raised the top end by about 4 MPH and the rpms to a top out of 8200 max. I plan on making a few more minor changes for my goal is at least 84 MPG and when I do I probably will put the 14 gram rollers back in to get the rpms back under 8k. You mentioned a fan and unless your's is different these are air cooled engines and even if you put a fan on the engine the fin design doesn't allow much from any increased air cooling and if you could even put a big enough one on it to do some good chances are the electrical system wouldn't support it as they are generally poor on the 150cc class. Oil cooling is an option and I myself built my own system that will consistently drop the temp 14 to 20 degrees by my tests I've conducted. They do sell a GY-6 system but it is in the $200 range and IMO is a poor set-up due to the poor pump pressure of the GY-6. That's also another reason I built my own system with a seperate but effective electric oil pump. JRR |
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Post by kuzikood on Jun 9, 2009 0:32:15 GMT -5
4925 miles wot to work up and down hill both ways no major engine failures to date knock on wood no clue on rpms but i know im up there at 55-60 real mph with a ten inch wheeled scoot
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Post by ScootSpecs on Jun 9, 2009 9:11:15 GMT -5
It's already been mentioned about the rpm's and if you don't have a tach get one!! www.tinytach.com/tinytach/index.phpThese folks that have been reporting these higher speeds at WOT without a clue as how many rpms they are turning are asking for a short lived engine experience. That's the way it is in all of the engine world scooter and auto alike. On my 150 Bali I dropped the variator weights from 14 to 13 gram for better hill climbing and still held the rpms to right at 7900 max but due to rising gas prices I have lately opened up the muffler a touch, fine tuned the carb and by doing so have raised the MPG 12 MPG but also have raised the top end by about 4 MPH and the rpms to a top out of 8200 max. I plan on making a few more minor changes for my goal is at least 84 MPG and when I do I probably will put the 14 gram rollers back in to get the rpms back under 8k. You mentioned a fan and unless your's is different these are air cooled engines and even if you put a fan on the engine the fin design doesn't allow much from any increased air cooling and if you could even put a big enough one on it to do some good chances are the electrical system wouldn't support it as they are generally poor on the 150cc class. Oil cooling is an option and I myself built my own system that will consistently drop the temp 14 to 20 degrees by my tests I've conducted. They do sell a GY-6 system but it is in the $200 range and IMO is a poor set-up due to the poor pump pressure of the GY-6. That's also another reason I built my own system with a seperate but effective electric oil pump. JRR I come from air cooled 2strokes, the fan I was referring to was upgrading the stock air cooling one to something larger There would be no gains from a computer fan or similar add on, im aware of that Luckily this bike includes a tach, so far seen about 8.2k max on a short ride but will def retune weights after maintenance. Won't get to work on this bike for probably another week or so since got other prjs to do first Did you detail your oil cooling build here? That would be interesting to see |
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Post by jonathan150cc on Jun 9, 2009 13:48:44 GMT -5
Opening up the CVT cover to allow for better venting has to help keep the engine cool. With the CVt cover closed, the whole side of the CVT gets almost as hot as the muffler. With it open, the clutch bell is just a bit more than warm. The heat transfer, logically, must help at least a little bit with cooling the motor. It's not much but lopping off the clutch bell cover is free is you have a hacksaw. Plus it looks really cool. |
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Post by usfmarine on Jun 9, 2009 17:20:33 GMT -5
Opening up the CVT cover to allow for better venting has to help keep the engine cool. With the CVt cover closed, the whole side of the CVT gets almost as hot as the muffler. With it open, the clutch bell is just a bit more than warm. The heat transfer, logically, must help at least a little bit with cooling the motor. It's not much but lopping off the clutch bell cover is free is you have a hacksaw. Plus it looks really cool. how does one keep dirt, debris, rocks, and lizards out of the clutch bell if the CVT cover is cut out around it? I imagine that there would be no scooting with any kind of precipitation either. |
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Post by xs650 on Jun 9, 2009 17:45:17 GMT -5
The airflow moving from the fan blades on the variator towards the rear helps. A rear facing baffle with a screen would take care of the rest without much restriction.
Dropping the temperatures from too hot to touch to comfortable to touch will help belt life a bunch. If the housing is too hot to touch, the belt is even hotter.
It sounds like the people running exposed clutches aren't having problems.
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Post by jetjock79 on Jun 9, 2009 19:31:44 GMT -5
I'm planning a trip that's about 70 miles this weekend, all flat terrain, and coasting about 55-60 mph. I'm running 7,000rpm's chinameter indicated at that speed. Uni-filter, up-jetted, and performance exhaust, along with iridium plug, air temp: 74 degrees. I have 652 miles on her with a fresh oil and gear oil change (both changed every 200 miles). Any reason why this trip would be a problem.......Just don't know how hard I can push her. I also have a vented CVT cover. Thanks Dawgs!
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Post by 2btiger on Jun 9, 2009 20:03:18 GMT -5
how does one keep dirt, debris, rocks, and lizards out of the clutch bell if the CVT cover is cut out around it? I imagine that there would be no scooting with any kind of precipitation either. I find at the speeds we run here in the States, and the high quality of the roads we have here (believe it or not ) catching a squirrel or a rock at a diagonal to the clutch is very hard to do, also the spinning bell serves as a good deflector. I opted to cut a more internal circle just for this reason. All in all it is a Murphy chance but IMHO the risks out weigh the gains. Had to post the pix ;D ;D ;D ;D  |
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Post by JR on Jun 9, 2009 23:41:07 GMT -5
scootdawg.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=talk&thread=22211&page=1The high performance fan has been discussed several times and it's just a sales pitch as one, no one can tell you the cfm of your OEM fan and two the folks that will sell you the so-called High performance fan can't tell you anything either about the very product they advertise as high performance. Then there's the air scoop thing that folks have tried and as I have pointed out the ID of the PVC elbow that people are using is smaller than the ID of the opening of your fan cover on the GY-6 engine and as an expert in air flow design which you don't have to be we all know that you can't get more air through a smaller hole that is on something to begin with. Also the fan turns at the speed of the engine and generates its CFM air flow by the blade design and the speed of the engine as in a low to high ratio so any so called forced air you might get when moving down the road is useless as again it will not push by the blades to give more air! When sitting still idling or moving at slow speeds like in town it's really useless, but they do look real pretty if done right! About the best single thing you can do to add a little more air is to remove the restrictive grill on the fan cover to take away any restrictions they create to allow the fan to pull it's maximum amount of air it can. Also even if you could put a bigger fan on then the engine would require more HP to pull it thus probably negating the extra air by the extra heat the engine would generate to pull the bigger fan. Also if you will look at the fin design of the GY-6 it will only cool at a designed rate no matter how much air is put on it due to one fact alone there is only so much cooling surface metal there to begin with! There are other folks here that know this well and have the educational back ground to explain this very well such as Harry. When it's all said and done there is only one thing that is liquid in this engine and that's the oil, cool it and you cool the engine plain and simple. JRR
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Post by bkbroiler on Jun 10, 2009 14:34:01 GMT -5
You may have already seen this, but here is a full scootdawg review on your scooter: www.scootdawg.com/page42.htmlAnd you DON'T have a GY6, btw, it's actually a GY6b. The cylinder and head is totally different, and is slightly larger displacement, higher compression and ceramic lining. Also has a high-performance carb too. Altogether this adds about 10% more horsepower. Longevity (which was your original question) is uncertain. My Keeway ARN150 has the same motor, and is made in the same factory. |
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Post by kuzikood on Jun 10, 2009 20:41:39 GMT -5
ive scooted thru gravel dusty roads and torrential downpourss and have had zero poblems with rocks debris slippage or anything
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Post by phaze on Jun 11, 2009 7:45:38 GMT -5
my kid and i went to bike night last night and it's 50 miles from home, we rode non stop to it, on the wayhomw we jumped on the interstate for about 10 miles lol, we got passed by everyone lol but we had em pinned, till we got home .
her scoot get's out of the hole so fast that i can't keep up, which blows but after were at 55, my scoot takes the lead as long as we have the real estate to pull it off. it's funny how air works versus fairings as mine is more aerodynamic than hers .
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