NEED IGNITION SWITCH HELP!

[bucky512men]

I have a Tank Touring 150 that has been a reliable source of transportation for me for the last 6 months but as they say 'All good things must come to a end'. In the past week I have broken both keys to the ignition and have found out that a new ignition switch kit is back ordered 6 to 8 weeks. Since waiting for the back order is not a option I ran across a universal ignition switch w/keys at my local Autozone. NOW HERE'S THE DILEMMA..The TANK ignition switch has 4 wires going from it, a red wire, a green wire, a black/w white stripe, and a black wire. The Universal switch has 4 screws on the back for connections- a battery connector, a accessory connector, a starter connector and a ignition connector. Does anyone know where i would attach each wire?

[mortar235]

why don't you just take your original ignition switch to a locksmith and have them make you a couple keys

[dhawk]

Here's a link for a Tank Sporty wiring schematic. It's not the same bike, but the switch is wired the same way.
evosales.com/files/50-9_150-9_even.pdf

The schematic shows the red is hot from the battery, green goes to the coil common, black to the regulator, and black/white to the CDI coil.

This information is not very helpful without knowing how each switch behaves internally (which contacts open and close) when you turn the key.

You're going to have to check continuity between contacts on your old switch in both the OFF and ON positions. Make a table on a notepad and write them all down. Then do the same for the new switch. Once you figure out what is switching what, you should be able to make it work.

[mortar235]

i still say just take it to a locksmith...

[funderp47]

That switch won't work. Yours appears to have typical wiring. The black/white is connected to the green wire when the original switch is turned to OFF. Your new switch doesn't have that normally closed switch that opens when you turn the switch to ON and closes back when you turn it to OFF. Stated more simply, if you hold (connect) the black/white wire to metal, or the green wire, the scooter won't run. It grounds the CDI and kills it.

A key switch for a cheapo riding lawn mower works the same as your scooter. It also grounds the ignition to kill it.

The red wire comes from the battery and is connected to the black wire to feed 12v to other stuff when you turn the key to ON. The red wire would connect to batt and the black wire to ignition. That part would work on your new switch.

You could operate your scoot until you get the proper switch by twisting the black and red wires together, or use a wire nut. It should crank and run until you touch the black/white wire to the green wire long enough for the engine to die. Or you may find that the kill switch still works for shutting it down.

This is a diagram that shows it a little better, in the upper left hand corner. From a now quiet MONSTROUS BIG DAWG, Swampsniper, whose advice in the past helped me greatly:

smg.photobucket.com/albums/v244/tsiya/MOTORSCOOTERS/ELECTRICAL%20SYSTEMS/?action=view¤t=RETROWIREJP.jpg