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Post by byufanatic on Jun 23, 2008 20:28:53 GMT -5
Well, here's the progress so far:
Most everything has been fixed and/or fiddled around with and the scoot is put back together (for now). Mainly I just wanted to see if the sucker would run (my patience only goes so far *grin*).
Thanks to Jeremy for some necessary parts.
Headlight bulb fit nicely, but for some reason I've misplaced my wiring plug and rubber cap for it. GRRRR! So, I "macgyvered" a replacement and it works nicely (but I'll need to get a new replacement or find the missing one eventually). I have no idea how well the 18W bulb replacement will compare with the burned-out 35W bulb. Haven't taken it out at night yet. Those of you who have experienced both - what say you?
The brake light switch works great. Hooked that up right away with no problems.
Brake pads. *sigh* This is one of those things that make me disappointed in these Chinese manufacturers - not having a clear and comprehensive list of all parts for each scoot they make. Unfortunately both sets of brake pads from Jeremy didn't fit (one set - wrong shape, other set - too small). Thanks Jeremy for trying to hard to help me match up the correct pads! Luckily for me I found a set of brake pads buried at the bottom one of the box of spare parts that the guy sold to me. So, I cannibalized the extra brake calipers I had for the pad clips, took a trip to Lowe's and got a replacement bolt (still not quite sure how that is supposed to be set up, but got it working at least), bled the brakes, and everything now seems to work. Good news is that I now have a set of pads that I can use as a reference when ordering more pads in the future. Unfortunately I can't say the same thing about the caliper bolt/setup.
Took it out on the road....
When the scoot is cold, it runs crappy. Speedometer doesn't work (my next project) so I'm guessing I'm going 20mph or less. But, once it warms up I can get it up to around 30mph on the flats. I'm guessing that's not too bad for a piston that's only giving me around 100 psi. Definitely gonna have to get a set of replacement rings (yet another project).
When the scoot warms up pretty good then I seem to have a decent amount of pep (for a dinky little 50 cc - sorry, still used to my 750 *grin*) but traffic builds up behind me so it looks like new rings will be a definite necessity. When the scoot is cold it seems to be bogging down and sluggish, but when it's warm (takes a few minutes) it revvs right up (but lack of compression is apparently hurting top speed). So, I'm guessing my automatic choke isn't working properly? Especially because if I come to a stop while it's still cold the engine will often sputter and die.
Rob
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Post by byufanatic on Jul 3, 2008 16:47:25 GMT -5
Latest update...
While I was waiting for the engine to cool from this morning's experiments I was browsing around on the web and came across an ASTOUNDING picture!!
What was it? A blow-up of the cap, spring, needle, spacer, and diaphragm (basically the top end of a carb) and I realized something - it was incorrectly assembled! (In my scoot that is.)
The three-prong spacer goes in FIRST, then the needle goes in. On my scoot, the needle was in first, then the 3-prong spacer was on top of that. WHOA!
Excited... I ran out and swapped it around. Then I pulled the valve cover and gapped the valves at .004 inches. They were MUCH tighter than that. I fired up the scoot and twisted the throttle - it revved pretty good. Still, with WOT it was surging, bogging, surging, bogging - but I figured maybe the CDI had a rev limiter that was kicking in.
Time for a road test -
I took it up and down the road a few times and I definitely got it above the speeds I had it at when this all started. I'm guessing maybe I was hitting 30 mph tops. Unfortunately I could only give it about 3/4 throttle, anything above that and it would bog down pretty bad. So, it's still having an issue, but we are making progress!
Wife just got home, so gonna run to Napa and get some parts. When I get back I'll check the valve clearances again.
Rob
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Post by byufanatic on Jul 3, 2008 20:20:29 GMT -5
Latest update:
Well, got back from Napa. Got some good news and bad news.
Bad news - After I called to confirm they had the Suburban alternator in stock, I got there to find out that the one they had in stock was bad. Grrr. So now I have to make another 26 mile round trip tomorrow to get one that works. It's reasons like this that I got my scoot in the first place - to save money on these "running around" errands.
Good news - They had a fuel filter, spark plug, and fuel hose in stock (after having tried 3 other separate parts stores for these items).
The fuel hose is 3/16 inches in diameter. Fits snugly over the petcock and carb. Very, very tight fit over the fuel filter.
The fuel filter they gave me was part #740-1155. Much shorter body than the original and very clear plastic - easy to see through. Clamped all 4 connections.
Checked the gap on the spark plug, fired it up, and took it out for a spin.
Still handled the same - Accelerates nicely but will only let me give it about 3/4 throttle. Anything above that and it bogs down. The gears in my head are churning at this point.... "Hmmm," I'm thinking to myself. "When I pulled the old plug it was black with carbon. This means it's too rich. Must not be getting enough air." But... on a whim, I decided to put the restrictor cap back onto the air box. Don't ask me why, I just decided to do it.
First thing I noticed was that acceleration from a stop was much slower. "Ugh, bad idea," I thought to myself. But, once I got going a bit faster the acceleration really picked up and it pulled strongly all the way to as fast as it would go (estimated 32 mph). So, by putting the restrictor cap into place, it now gives me that last 1/4 turn of the throttle and my max top speed. Take the cap off, and I get faster acceleration, but less top speed (and bogging down at WOT). Well, that was a no brainer. I'd love acceleration, but would much rather have higher top speed - so the cap is staying in until I play with the jet later on.
The thing that has me scratching my head is that the old plug was BLACK. Definite carbon buildup on it which means it was running rich (needs more air). I didn't do a full-on chop plug reading, so it's possible that it is simply idling rich though...
Ah well, I'm happy with 32 mph (for now *evil grin*).
Rob
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Post by phaze on Jul 4, 2008 5:23:38 GMT -5
lean her out a little rob
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Post by Enviromoto on Jul 4, 2008 11:06:56 GMT -5
Yep sounds like the fuel mixture is off. What size main jet did it have in it?
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Post by doclane on Jul 6, 2008 13:08:50 GMT -5
Latest update... While I was waiting for the engine to cool from this morning's experiments I was browsing around on the web and came across an ASTOUNDING picture!! What was it? A blow-up of the cap, spring, needle, spacer, and diaphragm (basically the top end of a carb) and I realized something - it was incorrectly assembled! (In my scoot that is.) The three-prong spacer goes in FIRST, then the needle goes in. On my scoot, the needle was in first, then the 3-prong spacer was on top of that. WHOA! Excited... I ran out and swapped it around. Then I pulled the valve cover and gapped the valves at .004 inches. They were MUCH tighter than that. I fired up the scoot and twisted the throttle - it revved pretty good. Still, with WOT it was surging, bogging, surging, bogging - but I figured maybe the CDI had a rev limiter that was kicking in. Time for a road test - I took it up and down the road a few times and I definitely got it above the speeds I had it at when this all started. I'm guessing maybe I was hitting 30 mph tops. Unfortunately I could only give it about 3/4 throttle, anything above that and it would bog down pretty bad. So, it's still having an issue, but we are making progress! Wife just got home, so gonna run to Napa and get some parts. When I get back I'll check the valve clearances again. Rob all the diagrams i've seen have the spacer on top of the needle. do you have that pic?
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Post by byufanatic on Jul 9, 2008 15:13:02 GMT -5
Been busy for a bit so haven't replied, time to get caught up on progress report -
Not sure what size the jet is. I do have an extra carb (actually a complete extra engine even) and I'm thinking of taking the jet off the other carb, drilling it out, and installing it on the scoot. What would be the recommended drill bit size? I do not plan on making any major modifications in the near future. I will stay with same block size, may go to a uni-filter, and any exhaust mods will be done with current exhaust (drilling out baffles, etc).
I took it out for a spin yesterday - still flat on acceleration until I get going, then it picks up. Was running an errand and the scoot was doing fine. During one of my stops I came back out and the scoot started right up, but would not respond when I twisted the throttle. It sputtered and chugged and had no power. I put it up on the centerstand and started it again (took several kicks) and it idled ok, but if I turned the throttle it would sputter and chug and if I let go of the throttle it would die. Well, after fiddling with it a bit it finally started revving up and I was able to ride it home. As I neared home the belt broke. Just snapped while going around 30mph. Was only a block from home so pushed it.
This morning I pulled the CVT cover and the belt was shredded. I pulled the belt off the other engine I have and installed it. I'm concerned about the belt shredding because it supposedly only has around 380 miles on it. But, more on that later as I have a more pressing issue...
Started up the scoot, it idled fine, revved fine (it was on the centerstand). Hopped on it and twisted the throttle - same problem as yesterday - bogging down, sputtering, no power. If I let go of the throttle it dies. Got the impression it just wasn't getting enough air. Pulled the air filter box, everything looked ok. Took a small air blower and blew air into the intake hose. After a second the engine revved fine. Turned off blower and engine still revved fine (on centerstand). But, if I tried to hop on it and ride, nothing...
After fiddling around with it some more I noticed that the junction where the exhaust pipe goes into the muffler is loose (broken weld?). So, I'm guessing the problem is that my whole air intake/exhaust is now wacked because of the break between the pipe and the exhaust. The pipe still goes into the muffler, but it's now no longer a tight seal.
Any thoughts? Would this break be causing the lack of power and even the flat powerband at low speeds? Is the break something that can be fixed with JB Weld, that "metal putty" stuff or a high-temp epoxy?
Oh, and by "no power" I mean that it will not go at all. The engine will rev to the point where you can feel the belt engaging just a bit but it will not go at all.
Rob
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Post by byufanatic on Jul 9, 2008 18:09:33 GMT -5
Update -
I pulled the muffler off. Interesting to note that the pipe goes quite far into the muffler. Never seen the inside of a muffler before (still haven't) but I had thought the pipe ended just inside the muffler.
Anyways, back on track -
I had another muffler (from the other engine I have) so I put that one on. I have no idea the condition of the muffler (other than that it is in one piece). Started the scoot up, it idled fine, revved fine. Took it out for a spin, top speed was only around 25 mph. Pulled the air cover off, wouldn't go anywhere. Put the air cover back on, now we're back where I started yesterday - no power. So, I think it's safe to say the muffler was probably not the issue.
Frustrating that it's one gremlin after another with this scoot. It was running pretty good yesterday and then suddenly this.
So, I guess tomorrow I'll be taking all the bodywork off (again) and pulling the carb (again). I'm still thinking it's an air issue. Weird how this morning I had to blow air into the air box intake in order for the scoot to rev up. Maybe I've got a stuck slider or something.
Any thoughts?
Rob
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Post by byufanatic on Jul 10, 2008 18:14:40 GMT -5
Skipp and Jeremy (and anyone else??) I could really use some help here.
Today I tore the scoot down (again).
Pulled the carb apart. Looks ok. Didn't see anything unusual. Looked at the jets. Stamped in it is "K85" on the main and "K35S" on the pilot. Pulled the other carb apart and the jets on that are stamped with the same thing. So I'm guessing I have stock jets on this thing.
Pulled the valve cover and checked clearances. They were pretty much where I set them last time. I had them at .004 inches but the service manual said to set them at .05 mm (.002 inches). So, changed it to .05 mm.
Checked for spark. I am getting a spark but the plug was very sooty though - lots of black carbon all over it.
Checked cylinder compression. Gauge reads 125 psi.
Fired the engine with scoot on centerstand. Idled fine. Revved fine. Noticed a bit of a hesitation when cranking the throttle before it would rev though. Alternated between idling and revving several times. Tried to take it for a spin. No luck. There just is NO power. I tried different throttle positions and the scoot would periodically try to go (you could feel the belt tugging), but it would not go, even if I rolled it to help out.
At this point, if I let go of the throttle, the engine dies. Put it back up on the centerstand and now it would not rev. Sputters and chugs and if I let go of the throttle it dies.
At this point I was still thinking that somehow there is an air flow problem. I completely disconnected the airbox (sucking pure air into the side of the carb). No luck.
Lack of power and a very black sooty plug tells me its running rich or that the spark/ignition isn't working correctly. However, since pulling the airbox off the carb did not change anything, I'm leaning towards possible spark/ignition problems?
I swapped the coil from my other engine. The spark seemed about the same. Maybe the CDI is going bad? The timing off? I'm at a loss for why it would it start and rev fine, but then once I try to go it sputters and chugs with no power (on road or on centerstand).
Just wanted to add - I swapped out my CDI with the one from the other engine. No change.
Your thoughts?
Rob
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Post by Enviromoto on Jul 10, 2008 21:41:58 GMT -5
You did make sure the engine was top dead center on the compression stroke when you set your valve lash right?
Set your valves back to .004 and throw your manual in the trash its not gonna help.
How many turns out is the fuel mixture screw? It should be 2 1/4 turns out.
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Post by byufanatic on Jul 11, 2008 12:02:23 GMT -5
Hi Jeremy!
Yes, I did check to ensure TDC - had the two small holes on either side with the mark straight up on the camshaft.
Earlier I had it at .004 inches and it ran fine for a couple days before this started happening. I'll change it back to .004 again, but I don't expect the problem to go away.
Fuel mixture screw was 2 turns out. I'll change it to 2 1/4, but again, I don't expect the problem to go away because these were the settings when it was running fine.
On the first start (while on the centerstand), it will start, idle, and rev up just fine. In fact, I might be able to drive it just for a little bit (but it won't go any faster than 20mph). But if I stop, then try to go again (or sometimes I can't even go) it will have absolutely no power. Then if I put it back up on the centerstand again it will not rev up at all (and releasing the throttle will cause it to die).
It was running just fine up until a couple of days ago. And then when I was out running some errands it started acting up. At this point I had not made any changes. So something went out of whack on its own.
When it has no power I get the impression that the low revs is a very weak spot on the powerband and if I could just get it up to the higher revs it would be fine. When the scoot was running the lower rpms was definitely sluggish until I got the speed up a bit and then it would accelerate much faster. But now, I can't get it up to the higher rpms.
Any other thoughts/ideas?
Rob
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Post by byufanatic on Jul 11, 2008 17:59:18 GMT -5
Reset valve clearances to .004 inches.
Set idle mixture screw to 2 1/4 turns.
Swapped coil and wire with other engine I had.
Started up, took it out for a spin. Couldn't get it above 20mph. Drove back home, came to a stop, then tried to go again - wouldn't budge (sputters and chugs).
Put it on centerstand, squirted WD-40 around the intake manifold to see if there might be a leak. Didn't appear to have one. Pulled off air box, no difference. Used hand-held vacuum to blow air into into air box and engine roared to life.
I'm thinking there simply must be some kind of fuel/air mixture issue. I can't exactly ride around with a vacuum blowing air into my airbox. Ha ha. But it appears there's some kind of problem with not getting enough air or getting too much fuel.
The auto-choke is extremely hot to the touch - I can hold it for about 1 second before it starts to burn my fingers. Is it possible my auto-choke is stuck or broke? The screws on top are stripped. So I'm gonna have to find some way to get those buggers out.
Rob
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Post by darkstar on Jul 12, 2008 3:37:26 GMT -5
Hi Rob,
I am having the exact same problem with my wife's 50cc scooter. It has always run perfectly until I put a kevlar belt on it today. The belt went on easily, but when I went to start it back up, I instantly have the same problem as yours. The engine CHUGS bad, has no power, and barely idles on the center stand with a very sluggish rev-up. Nothing else changed except for the belt. The only thing I can think of is that I somehow made the timing chain skip a tooth or two when I hit the variator (crankshaft) nut with my impact wrench to loosen it. I'm guessing that the timing is now out of whack. I'm going to check it tomorrow and see if the timing is off. It's the only thing that makes sense to me. Please let me know what you find; I'll post back Saturday evening. I have a feeling we both have the same problem. Thanks!
J
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Post by byufanatic on Jul 12, 2008 11:44:31 GMT -5
Hi J!
Yes, please do let me know what you find. My problem started surfacing the day before I replaced my belt, but it's possible my timing is out of whack for the same reasons.
I'm thinking that my fuel mixture is just way too rich, so it'll run (somewhat) when cold, but once it warms up it has no power. I literally force air into the airbox using a vacuum blower.
Today I'm going to try and figure out how to lean out the fuel mixture as there's no apparent problems with the air. *shrugs*
Any thoughts (as always) are greatly appreciated.
Rob
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Post by byufanatic on Jul 13, 2008 11:07:40 GMT -5
Progress so far (or lack of it actually) - Yesterday I went to Lowe's and bought some GRABIT bits. drilled out the stripped screws on the auto-choke. Now I could FINALLY see what was going on with the choke. Unfortunately(?), the auto-choke seems to be working fine. So much for the "messed-up choke" theory. Started up the scoot. It idles and revs on the centerstand. However, I'm noticing that it really hesitates when I open the throttle - especially if I crank it open. If I gently roll it open it's not as bad. I was able to take it out for a spin, but still can't get above 20mph. Then when I come to a complete stop I can't get rolling again (no power). So basically I'm experiencing hesitation and lack of power. It's not as bad (but still bad) when cold. After it's warmed up it gets worse to the point where the scoot is not rideable at all. When it's warm it will not rev up. However, when I use a vacuum blower to force air into the airbox then the engine will suddenly roar to life. The plug is black with soot, so it's WAY rich or not firing properly. I'm stumped guys. Totally stumped and I'm guessing by the lack of responses that no one here has any ideas either. Ha ha. On Monday I plan to check the timing and to boil the carb. After that, I guess I don't have much choice but to cross my fingers and hope there's a competent mechanic in town who can fix it. Or maybe it's time to cut my losses and write it off as junk. Rob
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Post by doclane on Jul 13, 2008 11:16:04 GMT -5
maybe try a smaller main jet.
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Post by imagesinthewind on Jul 13, 2008 14:59:31 GMT -5
Check the timing and see what happens. Also, if you blow air into the right side it roars to life. It runs better cold. It won't run at all when warm. Maybe the intake fan-or whatever it's called- isn't spinning fast enough to put enough cool air into the engine. Just typing out loud here. What makes that fan spin? what if there is something keeping it from spinning at all or up to the speed it needs to. . .
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Post by tortoise on Jul 13, 2008 15:46:42 GMT -5
I'm thinking that my fuel mixture is just way too rich Any chance fuel could be bypassing the carb through a torn diaphragm in the tank outlet valve via the manifold vacuum line? Might try blocking manifold vacuum to that valve during a short test run.
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Post by byufanatic on Jul 13, 2008 17:45:14 GMT -5
maybe try a smaller main jet. Hmmm. Does "K85" on the side of the jet mean it's an .85mm jet? I have two carbs from two engines and they both have K85 stamped on the main jet. I completely open up the air box, and I even disconnected the airbox and it still wouldn't get power. I dunno... perhaps pull off the exhaust and see if that leans it out? If so, then you could be right - jet is too big. But with a completely unrestricted airbox I should get some power shouldn't I? Check the timing and see what happens. Also, if you blow air into the right side it roars to life. It runs better cold. It won't run at all when warm. Maybe the intake fan-or whatever it's called- isn't spinning fast enough to put enough cool air into the engine. Just typing out loud here. What makes that fan spin? what if there is something keeping it from spinning at all or up to the speed it needs to. . . I'll be checking the timing on Monday. But you lost me a bit on the intake fan. Not sure what you're referring to. Any chance fuel could be bypassing the carb through a torn diaphragm in the tank outlet valve via the manifold vacuum line? Might try blocking manifold vacuum to that valve during a short test run. Hmmm... that's a possibility. Make sense at least. *grin* I'll check that out on Monday. Thanks for the ideas guys and gals! Keep 'em coming. I'm willing to try just about anything as long as I'm not continuing to dump money into parts and equipment. *grin* Rob
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Post by imagesinthewind on Jul 13, 2008 17:58:30 GMT -5
On the right side of the scooter is a fan. It's found opposite the variator (on the left side). That's where you're blowing air into it? If not, then disregard my thoughts. Anyway, if that IS where you're blowing air, maybe that fan isn't turning fast enough to help cool the engine and it's quitting on you.
Or are you blowing air into the air box?
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Post by byufanatic on Jul 13, 2008 18:39:57 GMT -5
On the right side of the scooter is a fan. It's found opposite the variator (on the left side). That's where you're blowing air into it? If not, then disregard my thoughts. Anyway, if that IS where you're blowing air, maybe that fan isn't turning fast enough to help cool the engine and it's quitting on you. Or are you blowing air into the air box? Oooooh! *grin* No... I'm blowing the air into the airbox. (On the left side.) Although your idea has merit - I am tempted to figure out a way to BLOW air in rather than just suck it in. But I'd rather do that as a performance upgrade rather than just to get it running because that would be like putting a band-aid on a serious wound and hoping it magically goes away by itself. Rob
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Post by imagesinthewind on Jul 13, 2008 19:27:01 GMT -5
Denial is fun though!
Could there be a blockage in the air intake to the carb? Just a small one that expands when it gets hotter?
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Post by byufanatic on Jul 13, 2008 21:29:24 GMT -5
Denial is fun though! Could there be a blockage in the air intake to the carb? Just a small one that expands when it gets hotter? LOL. Yeah, denial can be fun. Unfortunately I've learned too hard too many times that denial can be very costly/painful in the long run. So, I tend to avoid denial nowadays. *grin* As for blockage on the air intake for the carb... Nope. The air intake on the carb is about the size of a half dollar (big). And If I've completely disconnected the entire airbox and hose and have the bare carb exposed to the air then there can be no blockage (unless someone sticks a half dollar on my carb! *wink*) What tortoise said earlier makes a lot of sense and I'm REALLY hoping he's hit the nail on the head. So, let's hope he's right! Rob
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Post by imagesinthewind on Jul 13, 2008 21:47:46 GMT -5
fingers crossed for you!
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Post by byufanatic on Jul 13, 2008 22:01:24 GMT -5
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Post by imagesinthewind on Jul 13, 2008 22:29:50 GMT -5
and toes. . .
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Post by byufanatic on Jul 14, 2008 10:25:26 GMT -5
Just a quick update before I need to run some errands -
Hooked up a clear tube from the petcock to the "T" joint on the vacuum hoses, cranked the scoot up and watched to see if any fuel would flow down the line.
I didn't see any fuel in the line and the bike continued to do it's thing.
After about 5 min I pulled the tube off to give it a closer scrutiny and it looks like although fuel is not FLOWING down the tube, there is some minimal residue in there. Possibly a small enough hole that little more than fumes are getting by. (But enough to cause problems perhaps?) So, after I get back from my errands I'll drain the tank and swap the petcock out with my spare and see if that fixes the problem.
I was disappointed not to see fuel flowing in the tube, but I'm still desperately holding onto the hope that the fumes/residue are causing the problem.
Anyways, back in a couple/few hours....
Rob
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Post by byufanatic on Jul 14, 2008 14:21:47 GMT -5
Drained the fuel, cleaned out the tank for good measure, swapped petcocks, filled tank with fuel... Seemed to run just a tiny bit better (when it was running) but still reverts back to "no power" once warmed up. So, guess it's not the petcock. Excuse me while I go cuckoo... Well, I'll wait for the engine to cool, then I'll check the timing. After that, I'm out of ideas again. So, I'm open to more suggestions! Rob
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Post by tortoise on Jul 14, 2008 17:00:02 GMT -5
I'm open to more suggestions! I tried to read through you previous threads for more "context", but gave up. You seem to have started around 8 threads relating to engine mechanical deficiencies with this scooter and perhaps others . . very confusing! If this is the engine that seized, perhaps the valve guides were scored resulting in sticking valves. Might try some penetrating oil on them. Tortoise "out".
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Post by byufanatic on Jul 14, 2008 17:16:12 GMT -5
I'm open to more suggestions! I tried to read through you previous threads for more "context", but gave up. You seem to have started around 8 threads relating to engine mechanical deficiencies with this scooter and perhaps others . . very confusing! If this is the engine that seized, perhaps the valve guides were scored resulting in sticking valves. Might try some penetrating oil on them. Tortoise "out". LOL. I'm sorry Tortoise for making it complicated. For the most part, the other mechanical difficulties are resolved (or not an issue at this time). I've decided to simply focus on just ONE thread (this one) to make it easier for others to read the history of my scoot. The previous owner claims that the engine was seized. Aside from low compression (90 psi when I got it) I have nothing but his word to take for that. I've currently gotten the cylinder compression up to 125 psi. I did a leakdown test (couple of teaspoons of oil in the cylinder, then test compression again) and it shot up to over 200 psi. So that tells me the valves are seating fine and the gasket is in good condition - just bad rings is all. Perhaps I need to do an update listing all issues and list what has been resolved and what hasn't. That might help eh? *grin* For now, I have some interesting news: I think it's quite possible the timing is off. Here's a pic of the valve camshaft at TDC: Then, while that's at TDC let's look at the engine timing marks: Now, if I'm reading correctly, when the valves are at TDC (in first picture) then the "F" mark (red arrow) should be right on the tab on the engine (red circle). Correct? Sheesh.... could that be the problem - the timing is off (badly)? Now, having never adjusted timing before (every vehicle I've ever owned has always had good timing), I'm not sure how to go about doing it. I'm guessing the easiest way would be to take the chain off the valve cam, rotate the cam to TDC while the "F" mark and the tab are lined up, then put the chain back on? If so, how do I loosen the chain? Some tips and suggestions would be appreciated. *smile* Rob
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