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Post by 04prixgt04 on Oct 26, 2012 21:00:13 GMT -5
So I posted a few days aiek go about this the first day I got the bike. The head lights won't come on and the tail light only lights up when I hit the brakes. (brand new bulbs) I read online that some rectifiers coe bad so i bought 2 and neither worked. I noticed that the plastic inside the nose is slightly melted right above the VR so I am positive that is the issue. I looked at the wires and they are all good. I called a local shop and they said I could bring it in for a dignostic fee of 65 (dont wanna do that cuz i know with yalls help i am capable) o run the head lights off the horn power wire and instal a 15 amp fuse. thats all good but what would I do with the tail lights? This sux. I called the seller and he gave me back $100. The bike only has 200 miles on it. The oil is super clean and and it starts up right away. (bogs down but im putting a new carb on in the morning) What should I do?? Thanx for ur input..
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Post by 04prixgt04 on Oct 27, 2012 10:20:22 GMT -5
So no Ideas about running the head / tail lights off another source?
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Post by ltdhpp on Oct 27, 2012 11:45:04 GMT -5
If it was me... I'd run the head/tail lights off a fused lead from the battery with a switch AND a relay. As long as they are wired to all come of when you start the scooter, they might all light up just by feeding one of them power. If your scooter does not have a separate marker/headlight switch, only a high/low beam switch, then this is the case. "Borrowing" power from a wire of another source can be risky, especially for lights. Good chance honking the horn will make the lights dim too, if they wire them that way. I did fix one scooter with no head lights by repairing the connector for the high/low switch. Power for both high/low beams go through the high/low switch, so if it is defective or unplugged, neither will work. This doesn't explain the tail light, but that could be as simple as a bad socket. Are there any other marker lights on the scooter that do or don't work? On the front maybe? Further testing and wiring the lights like I suggested will require you to buy an electrical tester, wiring tools and supplies but the cost will greatly outweigh current savings, future savings, and the potential for earning money since you can now try to diagnose/fix electrical problems on your friend's vehicles. This link is very helpfull on describing the basics of electricity and wiring in switches & relays : www.bcae1.com/The site is mostly focused on car audio, but the wiring concepts are the same and will teach you everything you need to know if you are willing to learn. As far as I'm concerned, learning new skills & knowledge is one of the most important and valuable things in life, because they can better your life and can never be taken away from you, unless you suffer brain damage. I knew nothing about scooters last season when my 50cc fell into my lap, and now I make a small supplemental income fixing/upgrading other peoples scooters on the side... Scooters have chased me down on the road here to ask about my lights, and see if I can hook theirs up or "make it sound good like yours"... unfortunately most of them have no money. |
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Post by 04prixgt04 on Oct 27, 2012 17:21:38 GMT -5
Thanks for the advise. Now I wanna make sure I understand. The haed tail lights should only come on while the engine is running? If the stator was bad would it make the R/R get hot enough to melt the plastic? I am off all day tomorrow and I will just start testing voltage from the stator to the R/R tomorrow.
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Post by 04prixgt04 on Oct 27, 2012 17:22:42 GMT -5
also , if i hotwire them what type of relay should i use??
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Post by ltdhpp on Oct 28, 2012 10:04:53 GMT -5
The most common type of relay is the 'Bosch' type, they are cheap and easy to find, and are the type that website describes.
If the only light switch you have is a high/low beam switch, then yes, the marker/parking lights and low beams should come on automatically and only while it runs.
Some scooters have an additional light switch for those and can turn them on with the engine off like a car, I'm assuming yours does not.
If you try to hot wire them, don't leave the old wiring hooked up, as I don't know if back feeding DC (the battery) into an AC (R/R) system or vice versa will cause more problems or not. So make sure you know what you are doing...
Melted wires and connectors are usually from a poor connection like a bad crimp or a loose pin. Of course it could mean something is bad too... I'm not too familiar with the charging systems on these, luckily I haven't had to go there yet.
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