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Post by redpyro on Mar 22, 2010 19:22:57 GMT -5
Ok scooter new last year 1000 miles.
Will turn over and start. If I keep on the throttle it will sputter, never getting any power. As soon as i let go to idle it dies.
I have take the carb off and checked it. I am a noob and not sure what i am looking for. Nothing is caught up, floats move freely not dirty.
Ran perfect last year. Put it up for the winter with some Stabil and far for a couple of days just fine. Then my wife went out. It sputtered and flooded out. Gar running out the overflow on the top of the carb when you tried to start it.
Fuel petcock doesnt seem to be stuck in open, when i remove the hose it doesnt just keep running.
I have some machanical skills but not good with the lingo.
HELP!
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Post by philr54 on Mar 22, 2010 19:56:54 GMT -5
Your float is hanging up or there is crud on the float pin/seat. As long as you crank the engine, gas is running thru the carb. Big Guy has a video on how to clean your carb.
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Post by redpyro on Mar 22, 2010 20:02:58 GMT -5
can someone link me to that video? i took it apart and it seemed to be moving freely but i am a novice. i will check out the video and tear it apart again. i am getting good at getting it in and out. 5 minutes. woohoo  |
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Post by philr54 on Mar 22, 2010 20:06:14 GMT -5
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Post by redpyro on Mar 22, 2010 20:27:55 GMT -5
I will tear into carb cleaning tomorrow. i dont recall the float being springy like in the video. what would cause that? I could be wrong, i have inhailed a lot of fumes and that was a few hours ago that I had the carb out.
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Post by zugzug on Mar 22, 2010 20:47:15 GMT -5
I will tear into carb cleaning tomorrow. i dont recall the float being springy like in the video. what would cause that? I could be wrong, i have inhailed a lot of fumes and that was a few hours ago that I had the carb out. This is where someone should suggest you work in a well ventilated area when working on carbs or using carb/brake cleaners etc...  |
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Post by philr54 on Mar 22, 2010 21:03:08 GMT -5
This is where someone should suggest you work in a well ventilated area when working on carbs or using carb/brake cleaners etc... I tend to forget about ventilation issues. My work shop is a 8' x 16' concrete pad with...well, nothing, just a big concrete pad ;D . |
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Post by redpyro on Mar 23, 2010 5:10:22 GMT -5
i was kidding, the garage door was open. any ideas on the nonspringy float should that be an issue?
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Post by nicko31 on Mar 23, 2010 6:37:37 GMT -5
i was kidding, the garage door was open. any ideas on the nonspringy float should that be an issue? Did you lose the float spring?  |
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Post by redpyro on Mar 23, 2010 6:58:15 GMT -5
well someone worked on it before I did. so that could be a possibility. This evening is my scooter repair time
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Post by redpyro on Mar 23, 2010 8:28:07 GMT -5
i found a listing for parts how do i know what carb i have? I have a scooter sold by valley scooters. brand name "motorino" i know that means nothing.
150cc
I found a listing for this and looks like my parts.
GY6 125-150cc Carburetor Spare Parts Kit 152QMI & 157QMI
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Post by philr54 on Mar 23, 2010 9:17:51 GMT -5
Motorino is the brand name for Valley, they should know what carb it is and have parts if you need them.
Which model scooter and engine size would be useful info when requesting assistance.
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Post by redpyro on Mar 23, 2010 9:36:44 GMT -5
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Post by kz1000st on Mar 23, 2010 10:07:03 GMT -5
I just sat through the whole video. I didn't see a float spring, just the the float needle hanging from the float assembly. Did you try changing the spark plug after you flooded out the scoot? I'd have tried that first before I disemboweled the carb. Or else opening up the drain hose and draining the carb in case there was crud that could have been washed out through the line. It doesn't make sense that the float level could be off already but check and see if that's out of whack now.
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Post by philr54 on Mar 23, 2010 10:07:31 GMT -5
Looks just like my Carino LOL, look for DENI on the carb body or PD24J on the top. There should be some kind of identifying mark. I was thinking of getting a scooter from Valley, but if they can't supply parts for their house brand... I don't know. www.eagleatvparts.com/ has the PD24J for $65 if you want to go that route. Look up 150 Carino. That's one of the problems with Chinese scooters - their standards are no standards. |
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Post by redpyro on Mar 23, 2010 10:29:46 GMT -5
how to i check/change the float level?
diagrams show a float spring on some it looks like.
i didnt not change the spark plug once, took it out last night and will replace it this evening when i clean the carb again
i will check for a marking while i have it out tonight also
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Post by kz1000st on Mar 23, 2010 10:46:30 GMT -5
diagrams show a float spring on some it looks like.
It's been a long time since I screwed around inside a carb. The spring action usually came from flex in the arm pressing against the flow needle. That was all the action in the video too. If you need a spring between the arm and the needle try cutting one down from a ball point pen if it's small enough. Otherwise I can't believe you need one. Pictures would help.
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Post by redpyro on Mar 23, 2010 16:35:10 GMT -5
Cleaned carb (there was no float spring in it - not sure if there should be one? dont see a place for one) - it is marked PD24-J
Replaced spark plug.
The first fire after all that - It fired up and ran with power. As soon as I let off the accelerator it choked choked and died. Fuel started flowing out the overflow on top of the carb when it died.
When I took the carb off again there seemed to be an excessive amount draining of out of the carb when I pulled the drain hose off.
Any ideas? I am guessing the float is my issue and the spring (missing?) is my problem
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Post by philr54 on Mar 23, 2010 18:13:55 GMT -5
First, no spring on a PD24J. If the scooter was running when you put it up, I don't see how the float level could have changed - unless its leaking. Don't know how you'd check that except to shake it. Only other thing is the valve (pointy brass piece) and the valve seat. Any pitting, corrosion or build-up on either the valve or seat would prevent it from shutting off the fuel.
Isn't it amazing how something so simple can be so frustrating.
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Post by redpyro on Mar 23, 2010 18:43:00 GMT -5
OK - Fix and new problem.
#1 guy who worked on it put the carb back together wrong. The air intake on the side he put back together seal, spring, cover. The diagram shows it spring seal cover. I reassembled correctly. Runs great. Starts right up, full throttle awesome.
HOWEVER! now when I ride it I can barely get to 30mph at full throttle. Used to do 50mph. WTF?
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Post by redpyro on Mar 23, 2010 20:04:08 GMT -5
Just talked with a small engine friend of mine, he suggest adjusting the mix strew leaner since under pressure i am losing power.
Sound logical?
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Post by philr54 on Mar 23, 2010 20:13:29 GMT -5
After removing/cleaning the carb several times, an adjustment sounds reasonable to me. As long as I was working on it and have 1000 miles on it, I'd check the valve clearance also.
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Post by redpyro on Mar 23, 2010 20:24:25 GMT -5
i only had a couple of minutes after i talked to him so i didnt do 1/4 turn. i went like another whole turn (3 out) no help. went a little more. nothing. still runs fine. no power.
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Post by redpyro on Mar 23, 2010 20:24:58 GMT -5
give me some more tips. i will try again tomorrow night
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Post by zugzug on Mar 23, 2010 20:32:15 GMT -5
Maybe a clogged fuel filter or a vaccum leak.
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Post by philr54 on Mar 23, 2010 20:41:27 GMT -5
Counterclockwise (out) is richer, clockwise (in) is leaner
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Post by redpyro on Mar 24, 2010 5:04:15 GMT -5
on of the rubber gaskets in the air intake on the carb has a ding in it.
i am going to order one. and when i replace it i guess i will start tracing vaccums and replace the fuel filter. i will keep you all updated. thanks for the help so far.
if anyone has any other ideas please share, parts will take a few days i am sure
yes out is leaner, didnt help me.
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Post by kz1000st on Mar 24, 2010 6:27:45 GMT -5
I'd look for displaced vacuum lines and possible kink in fuel line. Carburetors aren't as sensitive as all that. It's the surrounding systems that usually goof them up. Taking them off and putting them back a few times leads to errors.
I had a friend who managed to put his Yamaha RD 350 carbs on backwards and couldn't understand why the bike wouldn't run. He thought they needed a major overhaul.
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Post by gmoney on Mar 24, 2010 6:49:15 GMT -5
Since your model uses a vacuum fuel pump, it looks like a hockey puck located on the left side of the frame under the rear fender, it could be bad. I had to replace my fuel pump because I would loose power when driving over 30 for any length of time. I installed a new Mukuni DF-44 fuel pump, $19.95 from the web, that fixed my problem! Also a kinked or pinched vacuum line would do the same thing. Depending on how many miles you have on yours it could be a crack in the intake, bad vacuum lines or bad fuel pump.
Gary
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Post by redpyro on Mar 24, 2010 7:08:48 GMT -5
Mukuni DF-44 the 211 model? looks like a rectangle?
1000 miles. Crack on the carb intake? I just ordered a whole new carb $65 vs $30 for repair kit.
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