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Post by nulldevice on Mar 25, 2012 18:15:08 GMT -5
You NEED to take the CVT cover off and check out the clutch and possibly the variator before you tear into the problem any farther. Don't worry, this is less of a project than taking the wheel off.
What I heard on the video sounded the same with the wheel turning and not turning, but I have different ears, computer, speakers, etc. Does the sound get worse or less if you use the rear brake?
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Post by Metal Pony on Mar 25, 2012 18:30:43 GMT -5
Lee, I have 4300 miles on it, got it one year ago this month. Did you hear the squeaking noise in the video?
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Post by Metal Pony on Mar 25, 2012 18:35:36 GMT -5
Nulldevice, the sound gets worse the longer the scoot runs. It also gets worse as you ride faster. I had it down to 10mph from 20mph because it was clunkin' and squeakin' around. It doesn't matter if brakes are used or not. The noise is underneath me and toward the back.
As far as the CVT, is that kinda like the primary cover on a Harley, you know, down on the left side of the bike, where I put the gear oil in? It's black?
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Post by catrell92 on Mar 25, 2012 19:20:54 GMT -5
I would check to see if the belt is rubbing up against anything, maybe a a roller is loose in the variator
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Post by timber on Mar 25, 2012 19:20:57 GMT -5
I can definitely hear the chirping! around 1:50 secs and stops at 2 mins in I can make out a kind of even, cyclic sound that doesn't match the wheel rotation, it's playing out a beat like you might make tapping your foot to some fast music, like 1..2..3..4..5..6..7.. to me it sounds like a slower than rear wheel gear or shaft that's making that particular sound about every say, 5th or 6th wheel rotation. I'm not familiar enough yet with the gear box to tell what might make that noise, but it could also be a bad bearing that has a binding condition that causes it to lock up and release during a certain part of it's rotation and a shaft it's on is slipping (causing the chirping or the other noise I hear) or the outer race of it is turn inside the case, which is less likely since being aluminum it would wear down pretty fast and the noise would change.
What I would do if this was my bike, is take off the CV cover and inspect, and then almost certainly take the BELT off so the rear wheel can spin free of the belt, and other parts and turn the wheel by hand and feel what's going on, if there is binding, difficulty turning it, grinding/crunching feeling, loose/wobble/play. I would then take the wheel off and turn the shaft by hand (or try to) and see if I felt the same things- that eliminates the wheel and brake stuff from any possibility something is rubbing.
Next I guess the clutch needs to come off, be inspected, and eliminated as a source of grinding, problems, but I think you'll find the problem is going to be related to; wheel bearings, or gears.
That's because the parts are getting heated up and tighter without a doubt, so that again suggests to me bad worn bearings that could be missing a ball or they are worn out of round, and/or oil has not been getting in where it's needed which ruined the bearings. Lube is almost certainly not getting in the bearings I'd say.
I had an 82 honda cvcc, when I took the transmission apart at 200,000 miles, the main shaft ball bearing was missing TWO balls, they were nowhere to be found, I have to assume they just got worn into powder. I read it's a common failure with that particular bearing which I was told was a "cheap" one. There were no symptoms at all, but goes to show that ball bearings do break and can lose parts, sometimes you don't know it- they still run ok, other times they seize up when the balls try to roll over each other because their stamped holder is gone, and get jammed. That happened to me twice in 2 years with a utility trailer at work- the wheel bearings just came apart.
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Post by ootscoot on Mar 25, 2012 20:02:01 GMT -5
After listening to your well-made video, I'm leaning toward checking the clutch bearing
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Post by spandi on Mar 25, 2012 20:03:49 GMT -5
All of this reminds me of the grief I had with my swing arm/spacer/bearings. Somehow the spacer rode against the snap ring clip, the clip cut a groove in the spacer which formed a rough edge like a tin can, it cut into the bearing seal, popped it out and left bearing grease all over the place, and get this, it had a little over TWO miles on the odometer! (guess I got lucky wanting to change out the Chinese tires for Pirellis!) I then used a brass drift pin to tap out the old bearings and replaced 'em with some very high quality Japanese Ceramic ones I won't have to be worrying about. This just goes to show you that (unfortunately) when dealing with Chinese bikes check EVERYTHING and take nothing for granted.
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Post by Metal Pony on Mar 26, 2012 9:04:43 GMT -5
Wow, getting a lot of good info here--Thanks! Olf, I wholeheartedly agree with you about the bearings. Man, you should hear it when it gets warmed up...it's not a chirp, it's wayyyyy worse! Someone mentioned that maybe I should just replace the bearings in the swingarm plate anyway, then I'll KNOW I got decent bearings. So Olf, I think I'll do what you and nulldevice suggested and take off the CVT cover. But first, what IS the CVT cover?! Is that the elongated black cover just underneath the air intake/filter? Also, can I expect gear oil all over? Looks like I have to take off the kick-starter and a handful of bolts. I think while I have it apart, I'm gonna take the rear wheel off again and check the brakes. With the wheel off, will it be safe for me to pull on the rear brake lever (I don't want parts springing out everywhere)? And Spandi, do you have a website where you got those ceramic bearings? Were they expensive?
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Post by leepotter on Mar 26, 2012 9:12:01 GMT -5
That is the cvt cover under the airbox. You shouldn't need to take kick starter off. There will be no gear oil in there. Do a quick YouTube search for scooter cvt and there should be a video about taking it off.
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Post by Metal Pony on Mar 26, 2012 9:38:38 GMT -5
Thanks, doing now. Just got wheel off...
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Post by Metal Pony on Mar 26, 2012 9:48:27 GMT -5
This youtube video is FANTASTIC, Lee! Is that why they pay you the big bucks? :-)
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Post by Metal Pony on Mar 26, 2012 11:33:51 GMT -5
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Post by spandi on Mar 26, 2012 14:08:38 GMT -5
Wow, getting a lot of good info here--Thanks! Olf, I wholeheartedly agree with you about the bearings. Man, you should hear it when it gets warmed up...it's not a chirp, it's wayyyyy worse! Someone mentioned that maybe I should just replace the bearings in the swingarm plate anyway, then I'll KNOW I got decent bearings. So Olf, I think I'll do what you and nulldevice suggested and take off the CVT cover. But first, what IS the CVT cover?! Is that the elongated black cover just underneath the air intake/filter? Also, can I expect gear oil all over? Looks like I have to take off the kick-starter and a handful of bolts. I think while I have it apart, I'm gonna take the rear wheel off again and check the brakes. With the wheel off, will it be safe for me to pull on the rear brake lever (I don't want parts springing out everywhere)? And Spandi, do you have a website where you got those ceramic bearings? Were they expensive? Hiya MP, yep the cvt cover is the elongated pill shaped cover (on the left side?) that houses the drive belt/clutch, the swingarm is on the other side (and no there shouldn't be any gear oil dripping out.) BTW, get small plastic bags for screws and small parts as you disassemble (I mark the location of them on a small slip of paper and put it in the bag so I don't forget what goes where.) As to the bearings, if you've already taken the swingarm off and are going to be working on it anyway I'd go ahead and replace the somewhat spotty Chinese bearings with better quality stuff (you can find the size of your particular bearing stamped on the seals.) I'll look up the website and post it (I think I should tell you I had a bit of a hard time on the phone with these people in getting my order filled.... But customer service is DEAD these days right?) the rear (ceramic bearings) weren't exactly cheap, if I remember right they were something like $60 bucks each, but I feel it was well worth it. I'm going to lookup the bearing supplier and post, if you order from them call first to see that what you want is in stock and if/when you receive an email order confirmation MAKE SURE the the order number is on it!!! Hope this helps! Spandi.
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Post by spandi on Mar 26, 2012 14:21:41 GMT -5
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Post by Metal Pony on Mar 26, 2012 17:14:06 GMT -5
Thanks, Spandi! I'll check it out.
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Post by Metal Pony on Mar 26, 2012 17:19:35 GMT -5
SUCCESS!!!! Lil' Pony has been diagnosed with BAD WHEEL BEARING DISEASE! This is an easy (and CHEAP) remedy!! I found tiny flecks of silver dust when blasting the bearings (on the swingarm side) with carb cleaner. We should be on the road in a matter of days, depending on availability of parts.
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Post by spandi on Mar 26, 2012 17:40:49 GMT -5
SUCCESS!!!! Lil' Pony has been diagnosed with BAD WHEEL BEARING DISEASE! This is an easy (and CHEAP) remedy!! I found tiny flecks of silver dust when blasting the bearings (on the swingarm side) with carb cleaner. We should be on the road in a matter of days, depending on availability of parts. Get the best bearing you can afford (you won't regret it.)
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Post by Metal Pony on Mar 26, 2012 17:48:12 GMT -5
Just called VXB.com and I AM going to upgrade my 6203RS steel bearings to the ceramic bearings, even though they are $30.00 each!! It's important they don't fail. TO YOU GUYS THAT HAVE HELPED: I want to thank you from the bottom of my heart for all your assistance, diagnoses, and dedication to getting me back on the road. I have found some decent folks and they're at SCOOTDAWG.com!!! :-D
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Post by spandi on Mar 26, 2012 17:53:29 GMT -5
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Post by nulldevice on Mar 26, 2012 17:57:18 GMT -5
60 dollars for ceramic bearings is just a little too obsessive for me, but for each his own obsession. Take the bearings with you to an auto parts store. If they don't have replacements they will know where you can get them. Make sure you get sealed bearings. There is no dirt and water protection down there where they live.
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Post by spandi on Mar 26, 2012 18:07:58 GMT -5
60 dollars for ceramic bearings is just a little too obsessive for me, but for each his own obsession. Take the bearings with you to an auto parts store. If they don't have replacements they will know where you can get them. Make sure you get sealed bearings. There is no dirt and water protection down there where they live. Also make sure about the RPM rating and motorcycle/scooter application and suitability ( the folks there should be able to answer all your inquires.)
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Post by timber on Mar 26, 2012 19:24:44 GMT -5
Good deal then you are set then with getting new bearings, the rest looks good in the pics. What usually happens with those sealed bearings is the grease dries out, especially if they get hot, and then once the grease is mostly gone it's metal against metal, pretty soon, as metal against metal starts wearing off fine particles, the particles start acting like gritty sandpaper and it's all held in by the dust seals. Before long it gets hot and seizes up, or one or more balls starts getting jammed and worn and things just fall apart pretty fast. There's no real effective way to get new grease into one of them before that happens, other than prying off one of the plastic dust covers, and usually doing that distorts the plastic enough it doesn't want to go back where it was and stay there.
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Post by Metal Pony on Mar 26, 2012 19:33:05 GMT -5
Hi nulldevice, I'm certainly not too crazy about spending the $60.00 bucks either, but I'm worried if I get a cheapo set of bearings the same dang thing's gonna happen down the road. Epicboy stated in an earlier post China scoots were notorious for being inferior. A lot of stuff nowadays, like engines, are made of ceramics due to their heat resistance and their strength, so I figured ceramic ball bearings would be superior. Besides, you get what you pay for, right?
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Post by spandi on Mar 26, 2012 19:45:20 GMT -5
Hi nulldevice, I'm certainly not too crazy about spending the $60.00 bucks either, but I'm worried if I get a cheapo set of bearings the same dang thing's gonna happen down the road. Epicboy stated in an earlier post China scoots were notorious for being inferior. A lot of stuff nowadays, like engines, are made of ceramics due to their heat resistance and their strength, so I figured ceramic ball bearings would be superior. Besides, you get what you pay for, right? I can vouch for the Chinese bearing stories, my front bearing was "rusted shut" on a NEW scooter! Like I said before, check EVERYTHING!
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Post by Metal Pony on Mar 26, 2012 20:04:18 GMT -5
Hmmm, makes me wonder if I shouldn't address the front bearings before THEY start squawking...I know, I know, don't INVITE trouble...
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Post by timber on Mar 26, 2012 20:10:54 GMT -5
Hi nulldevice, I'm certainly not too crazy about spending the $60.00 bucks either, but I'm worried if I get a cheapo set of bearings the same dang thing's gonna happen down the road. Epicboy stated in an earlier post China scoots were notorious for being inferior. A lot of stuff nowadays, like engines, are made of ceramics due to their heat resistance and their strength, so I figured ceramic ball bearings would be superior. Besides, you get what you pay for, right? Personally I don't really feel you need to spend $60 on special ceramic bearings, just get the best regular kind from a brand name not a cheap off brand on sale and you'll do fine. The bearings are not hard to change out, and bearings usually give some warning when they are needing to be replaced. I believe you'll find the SAME kind (quality wise) of bearings used for your wheel is used inside the engine too, sans the dust covers of course, but the camshaft has a pair, so does the crankshaft. The big difference with those is they have a constant supply of oil running on them, so they would last longer than a sealed wheel bearing. FAG bearings (sorry to our gay colleagues but thats the brand name!) made in Germany are purported to be high quality. Germany FAG bearings group was founded in 1883, it is the earliest bearings 6203-RS manufacture, and stands in the forehead of the global bearings field. This bearing is in their deep groove cattegory, and deep groove is harder to manufacture, and one which the Chinese bearings lack, so they wear out faster partly as a result it seems. www.fagbearing.cc/SKF-bearings/6203_RS_SKF_61653.html
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Post by spandi on Mar 26, 2012 21:01:50 GMT -5
Hi nulldevice, I'm certainly not too crazy about spending the $60.00 bucks either, but I'm worried if I get a cheapo set of bearings the same dang thing's gonna happen down the road. Epicboy stated in an earlier post China scoots were notorious for being inferior. A lot of stuff nowadays, like engines, are made of ceramics due to their heat resistance and their strength, so I figured ceramic ball bearings would be superior. Besides, you get what you pay for, right? Personally I don't really feel you need to spend $60 on special ceramic bearings, just get the best regular kind from a brand name not a cheap off brand on sale and you'll do fine. The bearings are not hard to change out, and bearings usually give some warning when they are needing to be replaced. I believe you'll find the SAME kind (quality wise) of bearings used for your wheel is used inside the engine too, sans the dust covers of course, but the camshaft has a pair, so does the crankshaft. The big difference with those is they have a constant supply of oil running on them, so they would last longer than a sealed wheel bearing. FAG bearings (sorry to our gay colleagues but thats the brand name!) made in Germany are purported to be high quality. Germany FAG bearings group was founded in 1883, it is the earliest bearings 6203-RS manufacture, and stands in the forehead of the global bearings field. This bearing is in their deep groove cattegory, and deep groove is harder to manufacture, and one which the Chinese bearings lack, so they wear out faster partly as a result it seems. www.fagbearing.cc/SKF-bearings/6203_RS_SKF_61653.htmlYou're not just saying this because the packaging is color coordinated are you? ...and BTW, don't you mean "forefront"?
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Post by timber on Mar 26, 2012 22:10:54 GMT -5
I didn't WRITE this line, it was a copy/paste from the company history, obviously it was translated from German;
Germany FAG bearings group was founded in 1883, it is the earliest bearings 6203-RS manufacture, and stands in the forehead of the global bearings field.
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Post by spandi on Mar 26, 2012 23:04:58 GMT -5
I didn't WRITE this line, it was a copy/paste from the company history, obviously it was translated from German; Germany FAG bearings group was founded in 1883, it is the earliest bearings 6203-RS manufacture, and stands in the forehead of the global bearings field. Sorry \\-olf (is this Wolf?) but when I read "stands in the forehead" I just rolled.
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Post by leo on Mar 26, 2012 23:17:06 GMT -5
BTW, get small plastic bags for screws and small parts as you disassemble (I mark the location of them on a small slip of paper and put it in the bag so I don't forget what goes where.) preston gave me a great idea regarding this when i replaced the countershaft bearing in my final drive. get a piece of cardboard, draw an outline of the CVT on it, and punch the bolts through it. this will insure the screws get back where they came from. a great idea preston, i'm glad you turned me on to it.
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