|
Post by RetroAJ on May 29, 2007 21:45:17 GMT -5
I am planning on keeping the stock air box, the air filter is nice and big, and I took out the two pre filters. One on the air intake, one wraps around the air filter. I will start out with a #38 pilot and #120 main when I put the pipe on.
The bike felt fine at 59 mph, but the tires are not that great. I will soon be installing some Zippy's to improve handling. Any other ?'s feel free to ask.
*A J*
|
|
|
Post by RetroAJ on May 30, 2007 14:05:07 GMT -5
After a few days of riding around with the tach installed, I am getting used the rpm's my gy6 runs at a given speed compared to the 50cc 2t's I had before. With the Motoman break in, and the iridium plug, this thumper loves to idle right at 1500rpm. I don't think it would be any where near as smooth with the stock plug and a light break in.
If the stock CDI has a rev limiter, it must be well over 9k rpm. At 59 mph it was running 9100 rpm. When I finally get my jets, the carbon pipe will go on. I hope to get closer to 65 mph with better acceleration. That will be enough for me, so the stock carb will stay to help keep the high gas mileage I have been getting. I am hoping the pipe won't kill the mileage more than 10 mpg or so.
*A J*
|
|
|
Post by cowboy2710 on May 30, 2007 20:27:45 GMT -5
Hello everyone,
I am new here... I have a question for retroaj and doylegirl: Are your scooters basically the same? I am looking to buy one of those but can't figure out which one... Either the Lance Vintage, the Rekota Capri or the Tank Urban Classic. Any thoughts?
BJS
|
|
|
Post by RetroAJ on May 30, 2007 21:51:53 GMT -5
Yes, they are all basically the same scooter. I chose the Vintage because of the different styling of the body. The front of the leg shield has a different shape and chrome accent. The front fender has a tribal style sticker instead of the ugly eagle head that some have. The sticker would come off easily if you didn't like that either. It also has chinuminum style floor panels on the floor board. And the chinuminum style accents on the back of the floor board. I liked they way these all set it apart from the other clones. And I just liked the Vintage badge on the side of the cowl, it looks very retro. Kind of like the old style Chevrolet script you can get for an HHR.
*A J*
|
|
|
Post by RetroAJ on May 30, 2007 21:58:16 GMT -5
I also had my second fill up tonight, 88 mpg on the second tank. I ran it a little harder than the first tank. I will take it easy on the third tank to see if I can beat the 92 mpg I got on the first tank. And since I lowered my idle to 1500 rpm, after the choke shuts off, it will cold idle at 1200 and not die. It will just set there and thump, thump, thump until it gets up to operating temp. I am very impressed with this cheap little thumper so far.
*A J*
|
|
|
Post by cowboy2710 on May 30, 2007 22:07:01 GMT -5
AJ,
does one have to be mechanically inclined to buy these things?? I noticed that you "tweaked" it quite a bit.
BJS
|
|
|
Post by RetroAJ on May 31, 2007 9:29:05 GMT -5
Being mechanically inclined is a very big + when owning a scooter. You save a huge chunk of cash if you can fix any problems yourself. And with any chinese scoot, you are bound to have some little thing go wrong here or there. My scooter will never see a shop, only my garage.
*A J*
|
|
|
Post by RetroAJ on Jun 2, 2007 18:27:04 GMT -5
Since I saw the air scoop post, I decided to try it myself. I didn't want anything huge, so I bought a 45 degree elbow, instead of a 90. It was $1.86 at Lowe's. I used a dremel to cut of the connecting ring from one end, then I cut off all but 1" of the other end to give it a good mounting surface. Then I screwed it on with 3/4" L brackets. It doesn't look too bad, hopefully it will help cool a little better by directing some more air at speed. Before paint. After paint Installed. IMG Sorry the pics are so huge. *A J*
|
|
|
Post by dchme on Jun 4, 2007 15:41:16 GMT -5
Nice air scoop! What diameter is that elbow from Lowes? Also, did you mod the fan or did you paint it green?
|
|
|
Post by RetroAJ on Jun 4, 2007 17:01:53 GMT -5
That is a 4" pvc sewer elbow. The fan is a high flow racing fan. I need to repaint the scoop. All I had was gloss black, it makes it too obvious with all the flat black trim. It will get a flat black paint job this weekend.
*A J*
|
|
|
Post by RetroAJ on Jun 16, 2007 16:35:16 GMT -5
Installed my MRP variator, finned pulley 1/2, and 11g Dr Pulley sliders. I am very pleased with the results. At WOT it pulls a little harder, as the rpm's are kept at 7200-7500 under full load. 0-30mph, the rpm's are up about 300 from stock at any cruising speed thru that range, over 30 mph, it goes the other way, with rpms starting to drop at any speed. The faster it goes, the more the rpms drop, with a total drop of about 1200 rpms at 55 mph. So even cruising at 55 mph, the engine doesn't sound like it's being over revved. It makes for a quieter ride and the engine sounds calmer.
Now if I could just get this dang pipe situation sorted out.
*A J*
|
|
xof
Junior Dawg
Posts: 14
|
Post by xof on Jun 18, 2007 4:12:49 GMT -5
I am contemplating the Dr. Pulley and MRP variator products for my vintage. What made you decide to go with MRP vs the Dr. Pulley variator? Also, what parts of the air box did you pull out to improve flow? Have you replaced your jets yet? What kind of top speed are you getting with the new variator...any better?
|
|
|
Post by RetroAJ on Jun 18, 2007 8:48:27 GMT -5
I removed the two foam pre filters, one at the airbox intake, the other over the paper airfilter. No jet change yet, plug still looks great.
I went with the MRP variator because of the lower price. Now that the variator and DR Pulley sliders have had a chance to break in, rpms have changed. With the lighter sliders, rpms are up across the whole speed range. I have lost about 4 mph on the top end, topping at 55 mph. This has also killed my awesome gas mileage, I got 99 mpg on my last tank, I can tell just by the gauge that this tank will be around 70 mpg. Not acceptable. I have a set of 14 g sliders on the way, back to stock weight.
As for performance, it is noticably quicker of the line, but the engine is revving higher the whole time to do it of course. The shifting of the variator with the DR sliders is alot better. Acceleration/decceleration transition is much smoother. There is also less compression braking when you let off the throttle, so it will coast farther when not under power. I will still be happy to put the heavier sliders back in to get back to stock rpms and gas mileage.
*A J*
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Jun 18, 2007 8:53:00 GMT -5
The reason the MRP variator is cheaper is that you only get the inside variator portion of the assembly. The Dr Pulley variator is a complete matched set with the outer half. Most of the performance variators only include the inside half of the assembly. Stan I went with the MRP variator because of the lower price. *A J*
|
|
|
Post by MLN on Jun 22, 2007 13:22:42 GMT -5
I will still be happy to put the heavier sliders back in to get back to stock rpms and gas mileage. *A J* If you get the RPMs back to stock you have basically added a variator for no performance increase right? That seems like a wast of money to me. Am I missing something?
|
|
|
Post by MLN on Jun 22, 2007 13:25:19 GMT -5
Looks great! Very nice in white. Have you considered getting a windshield. We are thinking about one for our RC which is very similiar. Jon Jontam Were did you find a windshield for your RC? Can you post pics please? Thanks MLN
|
|
|
Post by RetroAJ on Jun 25, 2007 9:36:54 GMT -5
If you get the RPMs back to stock you have basically added a variator for no performance increase right? That seems like a wast of money to me. Am I missing something? [/quote]
Now that I have the 14g sliders in and have run them for a few days to break them in, these are my results: 1-much smoother shifting 2-better coasting with less drag down from comp. braking 3-no more belt vibration/pulsing 4-harder acceleration from standstill 5-lower rpm's above 40 mph 6-better acceleration up to 60 mph with more left to go 7-don't know top end yet, didn't get over 60, ran out of road
The sliders won't do all of this by themselves, it has to be due to the sliders and the different angle of the variator. The face of the pulley also had a different texture to it than the stocker, this is probably what grabs the belt harder on take off and keeps it from pulsing. I am very happy with the results now and I will get a top speed run today to see if I gained any top end.
*A J*
|
|
|
Post by RetroAJ on Jun 25, 2007 12:14:16 GMT -5
Just did my top end run, 62 mph. That's a gain of 3 mph on a flat road. Very nice!
Now, back to work on this dang pipe situation. Could not get the header to bend, even when it was red hot. I could put 2 or 3 stainless elbows on it to get the angle I want, but it would look terrible. I could cut the stock muffler off and use the stock header pipe, it will fit right in the carbon muffler, but what is the point of that other than improved looks and sound with little to no performance gain.
*A J*
|
|
|
Post by MLN on Jun 25, 2007 14:30:08 GMT -5
AJ
Those are respectable numbers for both speed and MPG. May I ask what you weigh? Those numbers are fantastic!
|
|
|
Post by RetroAJ on Jun 25, 2007 15:05:24 GMT -5
I'm pretty svelt, at 5'9", I weigh in at 165#, 162# if I skip lunch.
*A J*
|
|
|
Post by MLN on Jun 25, 2007 15:27:44 GMT -5
I'm pretty svelt, at 5'9", I weigh in at 165#, 162# if I skip lunch. *A J* Can you strap a 50 pound sack of dawg food to your scoot and run the tests again? That would represent my load. ;D I just rode my buddies Eagle Milano and the best I could get on flat land was 50 MPH. I'm going to get the Vintage if it can hit 60+ on the flats!
|
|
|
Post by RetroAJ on Jun 25, 2007 16:13:48 GMT -5
I have a 44# bag I can use. I think you would be able to hit 55 at least. I will try tonight and post results.
*A J*
|
|
|
Post by dchme on Jun 25, 2007 16:16:39 GMT -5
My stock Bandit retro rc150z pulled my 5' 7" 145# frame at 53mph wot on flat ground. My speed was gps measured. Interesting enough, I discovered that my odometer actually measured in miles instead of kilometers and fairly accurately at that.
|
|
|
Post by RetroAJ on Jun 25, 2007 16:51:13 GMT -5
My stock Bandit retro rc150z pulled my 5' 7" 145# frame at 53mph wot on flat ground. My speed was gps measured. Interesting enough, I discovered that my odometer actually measured in miles instead of kilometers and fairly accurately at that. My odometer is in miles also, the odo and the speedo are very accurate. I must have gotten a good one. Either my engine was built by a japanese guy, or the Motoman Breaking Method really paid off. It's the only thing I can think of that made such a big difference from the first time out. My oil catch tube is still dry, so the oil level is either just right, or I don't have any blow by to cause it to fill up. I stopped crossing my fingers now that I have some miles on it without any problems. It has been a great daily commuter. *A J*
|
|
|
Post by MLN on Jun 25, 2007 17:30:51 GMT -5
I have a 44# bag I can use. I think you would be able to hit 55 at least. I will try tonight and post results. *A J* Thanks man. I was really just joking but since you are willing I'm all ears. Eat a big meal first.
|
|
|
Post by MLN on Jun 25, 2007 17:39:56 GMT -5
It is amazing that there is such a speed difference between the same basic GY6 scoots. I have no idea how many RPMs I was turning today at 50 MPH but it didn't seem excessive, it just didn't want to go any faster.
How exactly did you break yours in?
|
|
|
Post by RetroAJ on Jun 25, 2007 21:59:51 GMT -5
At 50 mph I am running 6900 rpms. At 62 mph I was running 8200 rpms. Still not excessive, it sounded like it was happy.
As for the break in, I would ride out to where the county roads start, about a half a mile from my house. By the time I get out there, the engine is good and warm. There are few cars around, so I would just crack it open for a mile, then let off the gas and let it coast back down, then crack it open again. I would do this for 2 miles out, then 2 miles back and go home. A total of 5 miles. Then park the scoot and let it cool for a few hours. Then do it again. I did it for the first 20 miles, like Motoman says, then just rode it normally after that. I did change all fluids before I ever started engine. I have ridden it normally ever since, between 35 and 45 mph.
As for the dog food run, with the 44# bag on the scooter, I did 54 mph one way, and 57 mph on the way back. It took a long time to get to 57 mph though with the extra weight. That was all she had. There is a big long hill close to me, I should have gone down it just to see how fast I could go with the extra weight. Oh, well.
*A J*
|
|
|
Post by MLN on Jun 25, 2007 22:28:03 GMT -5
AJ
Thanks for the info. You went above and beyond! Karma to Ya!
It's amazing that 44# would kill 5 MPH but I guess we are talking about a 27% increase in weight. Was WOT with the extra weight around 8200 RPMs too?
|
|
|
Post by RetroAJ on Jun 26, 2007 10:55:58 GMT -5
Thanks for the karma, didn't expect that! I was running WOT with the bag of kibble, the tach was between 7400 and 7700 between 54 and 57 mph.
*A J*
|
|
|
Post by RetroAJ on Jul 5, 2007 8:46:26 GMT -5
Bump for cowboy2710.
*A J*
|
|