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Post by natemcclure517 on Mar 21, 2008 21:43:50 GMT -5
Does the air filter have to have oil on it to work properly? On the sticker it says wash and dry every 1000 miles.
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Post by earlwb on Mar 22, 2008 6:56:58 GMT -5
The foam filter that came in mine was pretty much useless as to filtering out fine particulate matter in the air. Maybe big chunks. Normally one lightly oils the filter using air filter oil and then it works Ok as an air filter for the engine. The foam by itself does not filter anything but big chunks. The fine particulate matter still gets through easily. You can see where the fine dust particles got past the foam filter in my case, in the pictures earlier. So one uses some air filter oil to lightly oil up the air filter foam, and now it works quite well as an air filter.
I think they meant that sticker for the CVT case cover air intake filter. That CVT air intake filter is only washed and dried every 1,000 miles or so. You do not oil it. As you don't want any oil to get into the CVT unit where it might get onto the belt of pulleys.
If you oil the foam, you can go much longer between needing to clean the filter. But for foam air filters, after several thousand miles, it is better to get a new one, instead of cleaning it. The oil traps extra fine dust particles inside, and some of those particles are still there after a good washing and cleaning and reoiling, so those particles might have been loosened up enough to get into the engine later.
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Post by scooterollie on Mar 22, 2008 7:43:03 GMT -5
Earl,
The factory Linhai manual with my 300 is pretty good as far as Chinese manuals go. It gives thorough instructions for cleaning the filter but does not indicate using a filter oil. The Yamaha YP250 manual does indicate the use of oil - engine oil - on the filter. Interesting. My other Chinese scoots have had the standard air filters - pleated with metal top/bottom covers. This is the first with the foam filter. Think I will get some oil.
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Post by earlwb on Mar 22, 2008 7:48:50 GMT -5
reference: www.dansmc.com/aircleaner.htmOiled foam is very popular with dirt bikes. On Oiled Foam filters the real filter is the oil. The foam is only a support for the oil. Sort of like a skeleton. You must oil the foam on these filters. If you do not, the filter will not work ! To clean them, rinse in solvent several times or until clean. Then ring them out, and let them dry. Lastly, put on a fair amount of oil and work the oil into the foam with your hands. You can buy special air filter oil or use regular 30w engine oil. 90w gear oil also works good. Check your shop manual. Some people say to dip the filter in the oil and then squeeze out the excess. This works, but the engine will usually run quite a bit rich for up to an hour or so, as the excess oil is pulled out of the filter, and into the engine. To avoid this, I drip a good quantity of oil all over the foam, inside, outside, and on the edges. Then, I work the oil in with my fingers and add some more till all parts of the filter are coated with oil. Sometimes, there is a coarser foam filter on the outside of the fine foam filter, clean and re-oil it the same as the fine foam filter. As you clean the foam, rub it somewhat roughly. If the foam easily rips or falls apart, get a new one. This type of filter will just fall apart with age. Ozone in the air, I guess. Anyway, if it easily rips, get a new one. briggs and stratton is always good for advice on air filters: www.briggsandstratton.com/maint_repair/routine_maintenance/changing_air_filters/foam.aspxI suggest using Air Filter Oil, it is extra sticky and does not evaporate fast. But wear a pair of latex gloves as it is hard to get off your hands if you don't. |
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Post by earlwb on Mar 22, 2008 8:51:35 GMT -5
na1x on another thread stated a good solution to a problem some people might be having with the temperature gauge reading abnormally high on their engines. I thought I would add it here in case some happens to be having this problem and they read through this thread.
na1x stated:
"Put a 400 ohm 1/2 watt resistor in series with the sensor on the side of the carb. You can access it on top by removing the plastic cover under the seat. The wire is green and has a pull off connector.
I had a conference call with a dealer who goes to the JMstar and Jonway plants, and he knows that the temp gauges on the 2007 and earlier models are not the correct ones. The resistor will FIX the problem. 99.9 percent of the time, that's all it is, is a false reading.
Check out my previous posts on this situation.
Joe"
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Post by earlwb on Mar 22, 2008 22:58:38 GMT -5
Today I decided to make a run down to Venus Texas and have a donut. Of course you have to leave a little early to get there before they run out of donuts. All in all it was quite fun. FM157 sort of turns and twists and meanders its way down to Venus, the squiggly line on the maps is correct, which makes for a nice ride. It isn't a boring straight line run all the way down there. Venus City Limits  Downtown Venus    A group of local sportbike riders I came across while down there. Several of them have scooters as well. The guy with the yellow jacket has a Silverwing besides the Ducati.  [/img] |
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Post by motomech on Mar 22, 2008 23:07:24 GMT -5
Nice Americana shots.
Makes me a bit nostalgic for the States.
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Post by Mainerider on Mar 31, 2008 10:52:59 GMT -5
I JUST ORDERED A 2007 MC- 54 250, BUT I DON'T KNOW IF IT IS A 250B OR NOT ? THE TRUNK IN THE PICTURE LOOKS SMALLER, DOES ANYONE KNOW ?
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Post by cat0020 on Mar 31, 2008 11:18:11 GMT -5
Where is the picture?
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Post by earlwb on Mar 31, 2008 11:27:45 GMT -5
The MC54 has a smaller rounded trunk box. But one never knows what they toss into the packing crate before wrapping it up. You'll probably have to wait and see what you really get. If you ordered the scooter anytime after September 2007 you can put down on the title application that it is a 2008. No problem. There are better pics of the MC54 here: powerscooters.org/cgi-bin/discuss/YaBB.pl?num=1194045206 |
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Post by Mainerider on Mar 31, 2008 12:07:04 GMT -5
YES ,THANK YOU FOR YHE INFO,THE PICTURES WERE NICE,I ORDERED A SILVER ONE OR BLUE,DEPENDING ON STOCK. SIX OF US, OVER THE HILL GANG, GOT THEM , SOME MC-54 AND SOME ME-13 250CC MODELS ,HOPE I MADE THE RIGHT CHOICE IN MODELS,I THOUGHT THE MC-54 LOOKED MORE LIKE A MOTOCYCLE ? WE LIKE FIXING THINGS AS MUCH AS RIDING SO THE BAD REPORTS DON,T BOTHER US !!!
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Post by earlwb on Mar 31, 2008 15:21:16 GMT -5
I take it you are in Maine. In the summer that area is fabulous for riding.
I had discovered a little itty bitty town named Dildo in new Foundland, and have entertained thoughts about someday doing a scooter trip all over the Island to see all these little tiny towns. Of course i'd have to cruise through a number of localities in Maine too.
maybe one of these days, if I get lucky.
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Post by Mainerider on Mar 31, 2008 18:48:27 GMT -5
I'VE SEEN A ROKETA MC-54 TYPE SCHOOTER CALLED A ROADSTER LE WITH HARD SADDLE BAGS. DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE TO BUY THESE SADDLE BAGS. I CAN'T FIND THEN ANYWHERE. HELP!!!
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Post by scooterollie on Mar 31, 2008 20:21:12 GMT -5
Mainerider - please check your "Personal Message"!
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Post by motomech on Mar 31, 2008 20:37:26 GMT -5
Why can't these dealers know what colors they have in stock  |
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Post by earlwb on Mar 31, 2008 21:36:46 GMT -5
Mototech,
Drop shipping. The dealer is working out of his bedroom at home. They just send the order on to the warehouse. Somebody at the warehouse sees they are out of the color you want, so they call you up asking if you would accept a different color. No one reads the order form stating your alternate color choices. Unfortunately, the warehouse or importer hasn't computerized to the point that a dealer could check online and see what is on hand at the moment, and get "dibs" (reserve) the color that the customer wants or ask the customer if there is a alternate color they want right then.
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Post by scooterollie on Apr 1, 2008 8:06:22 GMT -5
Consider yourself lucky if anyone even bothers to contact you about a second color choice. Color subs w/o notice happen frequently. Sometimes, even model substitutions! Imagine that surprise.
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Post by earlwb on Apr 1, 2008 10:15:35 GMT -5
I don't remember, I haven't read about anyone getting something different model-wise yet or for colors either.
But it would not surprise me.
One thought is when I ordered my 150cc scooter, I thought I was ordering a Tank scooter. But a Roketa arrived instead. When I double checked I discovered that the seller's website was most carefully worded and designed to imply that it was a Tank scooter when in fact it was for Roketa scooters instead. When you type in a google search on "Tank Scooters" their website used to be at the top of the search results page. But they had put in all the keywords for Tank so it would appear in searches for Tanks. They had displayed all the scooter models as named the same as what Tank was using at the time. But they were careful to not mention anything about Tanks or other brands. Anyway I was surprised to have received a Roketa instead, but since it was pretty much identical to what I had ordered, just with Roketa stickers instead of Tank stickers, I didn't persue it. But they had misrepresented what they were selling. So I was mislead by the website in as what they were actually selling.
So one really needs to beware of what the website stores are purporting to sell. They can get very tricky.
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Post by scooterollie on Apr 1, 2008 12:36:01 GMT -5
Yeah, those kinds of surprises usually happen with the less reputable "dealers".
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Post by earlwb on Apr 6, 2008 21:45:42 GMT -5
Today while changing the OIL at about the 5,000 mile mark. I decided to change out the tailight bulbs for the bigger LED lights that I have. There under the seat and the rear is a small insert tub that you can remove to gain access to the tailights. There are two 10mm bolts and a plastic clip.  The insert then comes out easily.  There is the back of the two tailights. The turn signal sockets are on both sides of the tailights.  The original owner had replaced the tail light bulbs with these smaller 13 LED lights. I replaced them with my bigger more powerful 13 SMD LED light units (each SMD has three high power LEDs on it, for a total of 39 LEDs of light power).   Here is the turn signal light bulb and socket. Note the ruber light sockets have two tabs, so you need to twist and lock or twist and unlock to get them in and out.  I think the bigger LED light puts out more light than the little wimpy turn signal light bulbs. it has 13 SMD LED units with 3 LEDs each for 39 LEDs total. The turn signal flasher appears to be a solid state version, so I didn't have to change it out. I might still have to after replacing the front turn signal LEDs in the future. I don't know for sure yet.  |
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Post by earlwb on Apr 6, 2008 21:46:58 GMT -5
So far I have racked up 5028 miles on the scooter.  |
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Post by magnaman on Apr 6, 2008 23:36:55 GMT -5
I would love to see your turn signals Earl. I think they are almost useless with the amber bulb that comes in the Reflex copy. How much were the LED's you used? Where did you get them. If you already have posted this info someplace else I apologize.
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Post by earlwb on Apr 7, 2008 5:30:41 GMT -5
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Post by cat0020 on Apr 7, 2008 6:13:02 GMT -5
I will be converting my Roadster 250 taillight and turn signals to LED units soon.
I suspect that the LED turn signal bulbs draw less current, so once you put them on the flashing rate is going to changer from using stock bulbs, a relay maybe be required for the LED turn signal bulbs to flash at regular rate.
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Post by oldkid on Apr 7, 2008 9:20:38 GMT -5
Cat, I swapped my flasher on my Bali to a electronic flasher available at AutoZone and other autoparts retailers and it does not need a certain load amount to work. The only negitive that I know of is it is quite, so if you need the reminder you also have to add a buzzer. (Make sure you don't get the positive, ground and load connectors wired wrong. The model bought was a direct plug in for the stock, but there was several choices to pick from.
Oldkid
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Post by earlwb on Apr 7, 2008 9:36:37 GMT -5
I bought a Solid State Flasher a while back. But I may not need it as the one on the scooter may be a solid state flasher too. I have only replaced the rear lights, not the front yet.
Yes the LEDs draw significantly less current than an incandescent light bulb does.
A typical 25 watt tailight bulb draws 2 amperes. with dual tailights, it draws about 4 amperes.
The 13w LED lights I am using draw 400 ma with the brake lights on. 200 ma with just the light on. So I went from 4 amperes down to 800ma using dual tailights.
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Post by yarddogbbq on Apr 7, 2008 10:52:14 GMT -5
earlwb,
do you think enough amps could be saved to upgrade front headlights or add running lights.
thanks
ydbbq
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Post by scooterollie on Apr 7, 2008 13:36:02 GMT -5
Yarddogbbq,
That is the way I am moving. My previous LED stop/tail was too short and wouldn't reflect enough off the internal reflector. From a distance, it was dimmer than the stock filament bulb. The longer bulb Earl has now used may catch the reflector better. That will be my next purchase. By using these LED bulbs, you save between 2-3 amps when stop/tail filaments are lit. That will offset the 2-3 amp increase for the headlight upgrade I did. I will detail this in the near future in this section.
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Post by earlwb on Apr 7, 2008 14:02:09 GMT -5
Anyway, that was an idea I had, that one could use LED's for brake/taillight and turn signals and running lights. The power savings may offset the extra power requirements that a 55w headlight bulb would draw. Dual 55w bulbs pose a problem in either case. A 55w bulb would draw about 4 amperes, two would draw 8 amperes. A 35w bulb draws about 2.5 amperes, dual about 5 amperes. So then two common taillight bulbs are usually 5/25 watt types (5w light/25w brake) draw about 2 amperes each, for 4 amperes. With two led tailights we save 3 amperes with the brake lights on. Less with just the lights on. My scooter has a couple of front running lights, which are the little wimpy turn signal bulbs, so if I replace those with LEDs too, I should come out about even for running a couple of 55w headlight bulbs. Since the turn signals aren't used that much I don't count those in the calculations. So yes it looks workable. Normally we have some extra capacity out of the alternator. But some caveats, you might need to upgrade the power wires going to the headlights, if you had bad luck and got smaller gauge wiring in that case. The next gotcha, is the plastic headlight lense covers, the added heat from a 55w bulb could melt or deform the plastic. So one needs to think about that some. Maybe some carefully placed air vent holes in the right places might do the trick. That will take some thinking as one wants to maintain the lense's ability to keep water away from the light bulbs. There are some of these longer SMD unit LED lights that are made into H4 sockets. So a another thought I had was to get a pair of fog/driving lights and use the H4-LED lights instead. So you still have your regular headlights along with LED fog lights. Like these for example: cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trkparms=tab%3DWatching&viewitem=&item=260221786000&_trksid=p3907.m32A final thought was the two front facing running lights on my scooter are the little turn signal 1156 bulbs. I want to replace those with a couple of LED light units instead. I need to look again, but I think the long LED units with lots of LEDs would fit. So the idea is to get a couple LED units with all forward facing high power white LEDs in it. That might work almost as good as a fog or driving light in my case. Like these for example: cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Pair-1156-High-Power-3-LED-Bulbs-TurnSignal-Tail-White_W0QQitemZ150234230408QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item150234230408 |
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Post by earlwb on Apr 8, 2008 6:05:04 GMT -5
I won't go into excruutiating full detail on how to perform the oil change. The MC54-250B scooter uses a Linhai-Yamaha Clone engine which is different from the Honda clone engine versions of this scooter. I use 10w-40 oils in the cooler months and switch to 20w-50 oils in the summer on my air cooled engine powered scooters. For the liquid cooled engine, I just use 10w40 or 15w40 oils. I like to use Castrol GTX Synthetic blend oils. But many others use Rotella or Mobil 1 to good effect as well. Since the liquid cooled engines maintain a more constant engine temperature, there isn't much reason to use a heavier grade oil in them as compared to air cooled engines. First here is where and what the oil drain plug looks like.  It is a cast aluminum unit, with a O-ring seal and there is a spring and a small metal screen that serves as a strainer for large bits and pieces of metal and debris. The spring is pretty stiff, so you need to use care in the removal and installation of the drain plug. Make sure you have a oil drain pan under the drain plug before you remove it.   Note that the wider end of the spring goes against the strainer screen and the narrow end goes in the oil drain plug cap. Use care when reinstalling the drain plug and assorted parts as the spring is stiff. I have to use two hands, and be careful getting it started in the threads so you don't cross thread it. You oly need to snug it down. You do not need to tighten it up hard. The spring helps keep the drain plug from coming loose. If you over tighten it, you run the risk of the side skirt on the drain plug cracking or breaking off. Which can ruin your day for sure then. On the side of the engine, you can note the oil capacity of the engine. The oil filler cap and dipstick is shown there. You need to use a funnel to pour in the oil. Pour slow and easy, don't try to rush it, use some patience. To check the oil level, you push the dipstick in but don't screw it down. You then pull it out and look at the oil level on the two marks on the dipstick. Normally right after a oil change if you put in about 1200ml of oil, the oil level will be slightly above the high mark. This is OK, it shouldn't pose a problem. But if you want to be more precise, you can add about 1100 to 1150ml of oil instead, and it'll come out on the mark then. When you drain the oil, you don't get it all drained out completeyl, there will be a little bit left over. This leftover oil is not something to worry about, it won't hurt anything.  |
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