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Post by Gary on May 26, 2007 8:56:14 GMT -5
Longlegs -
Don't know if its a factor for you, but storage space on the tourer is pretty awesome. I did some work on my boat yesterday and at first was going to take my car to haul all the tools and parts I needed, but then said the heck with that and stuffed it all in the scooter (Viva 250 tourer - pretty much identical to the Tank I think). Between the trunk, underseat storage, and a small bakback, I was able to haul an incredible amont of stuff. Doubt that a motorcycle style has that much carrying capacity.
Cheeers,
Gary
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Post by Jacine on May 26, 2007 10:57:43 GMT -5
Motorcycle styles have no carrying capacity unless you add saddle bags. But then they're not suppose to.
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Post by buckeyescoot on May 28, 2007 7:33:02 GMT -5
Update- I had a chance on Saturday to remove the covers and and unbind the wiring harness to trace down the lights always on problem that I am having with my Roketa Bali 250. In in my process of elimination, I came across a part that is not referenced on the wiring diagram nor on the Roketa Electrical assemble page they have on their web site for the Bali 250. I have a digital pic but I have not figured out how to add it to this entry  The part is mounted on the frame of the scooter on the right hand side, just above and to the left of where the CDI and the volt rectifier are mounted. The part itself has fins and measures about 1.5 inches X 1 inch. Red and yellow wires on a plastic connector attaches to the two prongs on the part. Disconnecting the part, seems to have corrected the lights always on issue, but I do not know what the part is, what it is supposed to do, or even if it is needed on the Roketa Bali 250 scooters since I can not find a reference to the part. If anyone has any ideas, please let me know. I took a few miles ride to see if anything fails but so far, so good. Joe (buckeyescoot) |
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Post by earlwb on May 28, 2007 8:12:47 GMT -5
That is an unusual thingie there. My scoot doesn't have whatever that thing is.
At first I was thinking voltage regulator, but it is larger and typically has more than two wires going to and from it.
It maybe an inline circuit device, that when it senses voltage it completes the circuit either from the hot side or ground. Or it works in reverse.
Can you determine where the two wires that plug into it go? That might determine the nature of the thingie.
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Post by buckeyescoot on May 28, 2007 18:54:44 GMT -5
 Hopeful I have figured out how to add a picture of the part above.  The red lead from the part splices in to the fused red lead off the battery that runs toward the front of the scooter, electrical drawings claims to run to the ignition switch. The other end of the red wire runs back to the tail lights. The yellow lead from the part splices into the yellow wire. I did not physical follow the two directions that the yellow wire went. I rode about 18 miles today as a test ride and everything seems to work okay. The battery is not being charged, but the battery was not being charged prior to me pulling the plug on the part so I am not sure if it is related or not. |
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Post by earlwb on May 28, 2007 22:01:15 GMT -5
Well I am inpressed, that is a pretty strange thingie for sure.
My first thought is that it is a device that when power is applied to the tailights, it turns on the headlights. Probably a simple diode inside or maybe a full wave bridge rectifier.
So it probably went bad.
But then I also got the thought that maybe it has something to do with the charger circuit somehow. But who knows.
It would be nice if someone had a working one that they could scope out with a voltmeter and see if it does anything interesting.
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Post by A J on May 28, 2007 23:48:48 GMT -5
Update- In in my process of elimination, I came across a part that is not referenced on the wiring diagram nor on the Roketa Electrical assemble page they have on their web site for the Bali 250. If anyone has any ideas, please let me know. Joe (buckeyescoot) Well, from my twenty+ years in electronics and your picture of the part, I would say it has to be a diode. Check it with an Ohm meter or diode checker. With the positive lead of an ohm meter on the red lead, you should get a low resistance reading. When you reverse the leads from the meter, you should have a very high resistance, maybe infinite on your meter. Technically, there may be three connections to the device when we consider the grounding to the frame, but I doubt that is really an electrical connection. Since it encased in a heat sink it probably is designed to handle a fair amount of current, such as you might have going to the lamps. With the part disconnected, do the lights work correctly or not at all ? AJ |
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Post by buckeyescoot on May 29, 2007 12:09:09 GMT -5
Hi AJ -
Yes, they seem to be working correctly without the diode plugged in. When I insert the key in the ignition switch and turn it on the instrument panel comes on, brake lights work when I apply the brake. When I start the scooter, the engine fires up then the head lights come on.
With the diode plugged in, without the key in the ignition switch, the head lights and tail lights come on as soon as I connect the fused red lead to the battery (one of two red leads) The other red lead goes right to what looks like a coil.
Do you think I need it? I do not see a difference in the intensity of the lights. Could it be failing, causing a short?
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Post by A J on May 31, 2007 1:34:46 GMT -5
Hi AJ - Yes, they seem to be working correctly without the diode plugged in. When I insert the key in the ignition switch and turn it on the instrument panel comes on, brake lights work when I apply the brake. When I start the scooter, the engine fires up then the head lights come on. With the diode plugged in, without the key in the ignition switch, the head lights and tail lights come on as soon as I connect the fused red lead to the battery (one of two red leads) The other red lead goes right to what looks like a coil. Do you think I need it? I do not see a difference in the intensity of the lights. Could it be failing, causing a short? If everything functions normal without it, it would appear that you do not "need" it. Having said that, I also think, the manufacturer would not have spent the money to put it in if they didn't think it was necessary. It's a mystery to me. If you have or can borrow an ohm meter, I would suggest testing the item as I outlined in my last message. Of course, disconnect all wires when testing it. If it is not defective, then the most likely explanation is that it is wired into the wrong circuit. Diodes are often used as protection devices in electronic circuits. You will often see them wired across coils where they effectively keep the reverse jolt from destroying things when the coil emf collapses, but I don't know what it would be doing in your scooter. I would think it was as an isolation device, but again, for what? Can you get a readable schematic (wiring diagram) for the scooter? |
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Post by buckeyescoot on May 31, 2007 11:46:20 GMT -5
Hi AJ - Wow you were up late or up early. I will look at your past post to get back up to speed on our discussion. I do have a digital volt meter (radio shack special) that I borrowed from a computer guy that said he used it to check issues on his motorcycle. I have scanned the wiring digram from the owners manual that I will post once I get home from the office. It may take a day or two, I have to check my honeydew list first since it has been neglected since I purchased the scoot about 3 weeks ago!  |
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Post by mattcorby on May 31, 2007 20:03:38 GMT -5
okay i posted this once but i think my post got lost or deleted. i think that your diode pictured there is wired in backwards. that diode is there so that the extra voltage from your headlights will power your battery, but when the bike's turned off you battery can't power the lights.
if the wires were reversed, the battery would power the lights, constantly, but nothing would charge the battery. i think this is what is wrong with your scoot.
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Post by fasdog1 on Jun 4, 2007 11:40:54 GMT -5
I also have a Roketa 250 with lights always on and I put a toggle switch on the access panel. I cut and spliced in the toggle from the fuse box under the seat. Fixes the problem for now, I did remove the cowling and checked wires and connectors found none that were a problem, that is why I gave up and put in the toggle switch.
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Post by buckeyescoot on Jun 4, 2007 12:03:59 GMT -5
Hi Matt -
I will try switching the wires around and see what happens later this week, unless some else thinks otherwise.
I still need to try the test that AJ mentioned above also with the volt/ohm meter. Normally, I have to take off the covers/panels to get to this area of the scooter, but I have been enjoying the ride so I have just pulled the part and charge the battery every night. ;D
Matt, quick question. On yours diode issue ( my wire leads are red and yellow to the diode) you just reversed the red lead to yellow splice and the yellow lead to red splice?
Joe
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Post by rony on Jun 6, 2007 1:26:09 GMT -5
Please note that on the RR250TLX the light stay on because it's the law to have daytime running lights on scooters and motorcycles. If you have a bike where you can turn the light off, it is not DOT compliant. I made a note of the comment of turning the light off for starting and will ask if it is possible to change that. You will notice that when you operate the starter, the light does go off but still, it's a good idea to have the light off when the key is turned and the engine not running to save battery. In the meanwhile, only turn the key on when you are ready to start the engine. Rony evosales.com |
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Post by buckeyescoot on Jun 7, 2007 11:45:31 GMT -5
Update - I disconnected the wires to the diode and reconnected the wires in reverse. Reconnected the battery and the lights did not come on as they normally did when I connected up the battery (with out the key in the ignition switch)
Scooter fired right up up this morning (with lights on once the motor started) Drove my commute to work - 22 miles, no issues. Turned the scooter off with the ignition switch, lights also went off. We will see what happens when I start home again. Also want to put a volt meter on the battery at the end of the day to see if the battery is also being charged now or not.
I will keep everyone in the loop. Thanks for everyones help so far.
Joe
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Post by earlwb on Jun 7, 2007 16:30:04 GMT -5
Cool, so the wires were reversed, most interesting.
Gotta love it.
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Post by monty57 on Jun 10, 2007 19:23:47 GMT -5
rony,
I have noticed the lights go off when the key is turned to start. That is great!. I don't think I like the idea of the lights not being on unless the engine is running. This could be an issue of the engine died at night. This is the way my 50cc scoot works and it can dangerous.
I actually think you have a handle on it the way it is. Thanks for your reply.
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Post by buckeyescoot on Jun 11, 2007 4:50:38 GMT -5
Hi Everyone -
So far it looks like reversing the wires to the diode ( my dealer tells me this is the volt regulator after seeing the picture) is making the lights work at lease the way I thing they are supposed to work. The switch of the wire leads did not resolve the charging of the battery issue so I will be looking in the theads that deals with charging.
I tested the battery with a volt meter while on the scooter while the motor was running. Same DC voltage reading that I get when the scooter is off and checking the battery.
Thanks again for all the help! ;D
Joe
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Post by buckeyescoot on Sept 25, 2007 12:09:45 GMT -5
Hi Everyone -
Just had some interesting results that I wanted to share. Seeing the great success that others (Gary) was having in replacing the Rectifier/Heat sink/diode on his scooter and costing only about $10.00, I too replaces my diode as I was waiting for a Stator replacement to arrive.
When I installed the stator and the new diode, the lights came on as I hooked up the battery. I thought I resolves this issue by reversing the wires. So, I switched them back. Lights stayed off as I hooked up the battery.
Fired up the scooter. Looks good so far, but the best thing is, I am getting 13.5 VDC across the battery leads!! Something I was not getting with the original diode. 5 months of trial and error on replacing stators, volt regulators, disassembling and reassembling the wiring harness looking for shorts.
Moral of story. If the lights are stay on. Spend $10.00 and get the diode replaced. Battery not charging, try the diode again. $10.00 and one week sure would have beat 5 months and $10.00.
Joe
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The red lead from the part splices in to the fused red lead off the battery that runs toward the front of the scooter, electrical drawings claims to run to the ignition switch. The other end of the red wire runs back to the tail lights. The yellow lead from the part splices into the yellow wire. I did not physical follow the two directions that the yellow wire went.
