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Post by sangrelx on Jan 28, 2013 0:54:59 GMT -5
Ok guys I have two brand new Air 50's coming this week and I need some input....
I have not had a two stroke since back in the day when Pre-mixing was the norm.
These guys are oil injected which is awesome but I need some help with a few things.
1. What is the absolute top notch 2 cycle oil to run in these without as much ash and build up in the ports and exhaust?
2. What sort of gear oil should I use to replace the china oil upon arrival
3. Should I really worry about replacing brake fluid? They have front disc and rear drums.
4. Any other advice...
I would love a PDF on Two-Stroke PDI's but honestly I know two-stroke engines they are sooo easy to work with. Such a simple design compared to a four stroke.
I just need to know anything to look out for on them during PDI.
So far my plan is to Drain and flush some clean new gear oil through then fill and seal it up
Drain anything from the carb and flush new gas through the tank and carb then fill her up
Check CDI, Ignition and Plug wiring
anything else... advice, hints, tips etc..
Let me know Thanks
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Post by snugglebunny on Jan 28, 2013 9:31:17 GMT -5
hello
i would change the brake fluid, drain 'em a couple times, actually the junk they put in 'em is not worth having your brakes fail, ya know?
2T's nope don't know 'em at all skuttadawg (sp) is one of the 2t freaks on here they know the best oil for ya, wait a while they will be on.
any quality gear oil 80/90
you seem like you know what ur doing, so i would just suggest to check every bolt, nut, electrical connection, ya know? hope this helped a bit
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Post by sangrelx on Jan 28, 2013 13:18:15 GMT -5
sounds good... I will wait until someone chimes in with oil recommendations.
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Post by skuttadawg on Jan 28, 2013 14:21:30 GMT -5
I used Maxxama ( spelled wrong ) which is a synthetic blend to start off with since my dealer gave me a quart of it . Yes you want to use premium 2T oil not the weedeater crap . I now use Motul710 full synthetic with ester and it only smokes at start up when its cold . For the gears Mobil GL5 or Bel Ray GearSaver which both are 80w90 and full synthetic gear lube . To be safe I would ad oil in the gas as my stock oil pump fizzled on me . I now have a Mikuni oil pump and had to replace the throttle cable with one that would work with it .
If it has a Torch brand sparkplug replace with a NGKBR8HIX . Check to see if you have a Gates or Bando belt as many come with a generic one that should be replaced with Gates or Bando to be safe . Most longcase 2Ts use a 788 belt.
Mine came with a 19mm TK carb with a 68 main jet I installed a 75 and it was way better . I put on a small vent cover made by Uni not the big red airfilter and went with a 90 main jet wow it had more bottom and midrange torque with stock exhaust
I installed a racing CDI from PFS it did have an advanced timing curve and helped on takeoff . With a BBK it screams up to 11,000 wow where the 49cc maxxed at 8,500
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Post by skuttadawg on Jan 28, 2013 14:28:58 GMT -5
Also I read where a member had an issue with the gas cap so I would inspect and possibly replace the fuel and vacuum lines with automotive fuel line from any auto part store along with a decent fuel filter . Only use premium gas , nonethanol preffered Here is a place that lists stations with out ethanol pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=SCAlways let it warm up prior to riding more so in the winter time . I was real easy the first hundred miles going around the block and wound up riding two counties away the first day as I did not wan to stop riding it . Fill up the tank before riding as the gauges are not perfect on some scooters but dang mine is as I ran out of gas 1/4 mile from a station . After 100 miles I like to get on it in the midrange of RPMs and go up and down to grind the rings smooth . Avoid getting the RPM<s up real high then let off of the throttle completely as it prevents it from getting gas and oil so slowly slow down to avoid running a hair lean when its screaming as it winds down Read this before riding 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/3151
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Post by sangrelx on Jan 29, 2013 3:31:34 GMT -5
Premium Gas without Ethanol is a must -- from what I understand ethanol leaves a lot of ash/residue when burned which can clog the exhaust and build up on the ports.
What about the BR9EIX -- A lot of reviews say this plug is doing great for long-WOT riding. Theses scooters will have about a 15min trip where 8-10mins are WOT. So a good plug is a must.
I am looking at a semi-synthetic blend or non synthetic for break-in period up to about 1000 miles. Then I will switch over to Maxima Racing 2T Pro.
What is your take on breaking in. I have a lot of hills some STEEP hills around my house. Would it be good to hit them hard going up and easy coming down them.
so it gets a WOT under load going up hill and then some WOT down hill with less load. Then maybe slow down during the downhill and give it less throttle here and there?
Give me your thoughts. Just keep in mind the roads this scooter will travel are Hills. Basically 3 large hills -- First hill is a slight climb, then steep drop, steep climb to second hill and steep drop then a slight climb to the top of the 3rd hill with no real drop from there.
so a lot of chances to red line the rpms
Let me know
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Post by snugglebunny on Jan 29, 2013 9:37:15 GMT -5
Premium Gas without Ethanol is a must -- from what I understand ethanol leaves a lot of ash/residue when burned which can clog the exhaust and build up on the ports. run about 1 oz of sea-foam or stabil every gal or so of fuel it cuts down on all that build up
What about the BR9EIX -- A lot of reviews say this plug is doing great for long-WOT riding. Theses scooters will have about a 15min trip where 8-10mins are WOT. So a good plug is a must. most run NGK's I am looking at a semi-synthetic blend or non synthetic for break-in period up to about 1000 miles. Then I will switch over to Maxima Racing 2T Pro. i think the consensus has become to run dino oil till at least 750 or more milesWhat is your take on breaking in. I have a lot of hills some STEEP hills around my house. Would it be good to hit them hard going up and easy coming down them. always vary your throttle for at least 500 miles never stay at a constant throttle RPM up, down, up, downso it gets a WOT under load going up hill and then some WOT down hill with less load. Then maybe slow down during the downhill and give it less throttle here and there? Give me your thoughts. Just keep in mind the roads this scooter will travel are Hills. Basically 3 large hills -- First hill is a slight climb, then steep drop, steep climb to second hill and steep drop then a slight climb to the top of the 3rd hill with no real drop from there. so a lot of chances to red line the rpms try not to redline to muchLet me know
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Post by sangrelx on Jan 29, 2013 10:13:22 GMT -5
All good advice so far... keep it coming lol
The BR9EIX is a NGK Plug.
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Post by snugglebunny on Jan 29, 2013 10:26:00 GMT -5
alot of people run the "8" or "7" me i have the "7"
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Post by tate on Jan 30, 2013 19:55:50 GMT -5
As far as 2 stroke oil goes there are a couple options.
Anything Amsoil, anything, Lucas, or anything Motul is acceptable.
This is going to sound odd but during break in I use crappy gas station 2 stroke oil. Lawn boy, something with a picture of a chainsaw, whatever,
After a couple hundred miles I switch over to Amsoil Saber.
I do however run premix on all my 2 strokes. I don't trust oil injection. Even though the failure rate is low it will destroy your entire engine if it happens.
If you are going to run the injector (90% chance it never fails) run Lucas semi synthetic. Saber and Motol are pretty strictly pre-mix racing type oils that are meant to be run at like 100:1 Word on the street is Saber has been tested at up to 300:1 (!!!) without significant ill effects. If 2 strokes are going to make a come back its going to be with oils like that which can be run at like 200:1.
I don't know what kind of engine comes in those scooters but I am very happy to see you can still get Chinese 2 stroke scooters. They are so superior to Chinese 4 strokes.
Chances are its the Minarelli clone which is an excellent engine.
There is an outside chance that it is a Geely/Qinqi engine which is easily the worst scooter engine ever made Just gross.
Please post pictures when you get them. I am very interested to see what they really are. Until I know what engine is in it I can't make any recommendations on the fluids other than my generic 2 stroke favorites.
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Post by sangrelx on Jan 31, 2013 0:05:33 GMT -5
Tate....
I thought of running the cheaper 2-cycle oil for first 1000 miles on each to ensure I am allowing the piston rings to hone in.
then switch to full synthetic .. I can buy a good synthetic at the honda shop so I will see what they have shortly.
How often do the oil pumps fail? I mean they are a truly simple design. I cannot see them having issues.
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Post by sangrelx on Jan 31, 2013 0:18:12 GMT -5
I cannot find any information on what engine it comes with.
I think its a 40QMB
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Post by sangrelx on Jan 31, 2013 0:32:50 GMT -5
The manufacturing company is Qingqi Group Ningbo Rhon Motorcycle Co
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Post by sangrelx on Feb 1, 2013 14:12:57 GMT -5
Both scooters arrived yesterday with no issues. They look great.
I am using Supertech 2 cycle oil for air cooled engines for the first 1000 miles. Then I will switch to a full synthetic oil.
I let it warm up last night about 10 mins then took it around the block with varied RPMS and a few seconds at WOT.
I parked it for the night to cool off.
Today I started it for about 5-10 mins let it idle in the shop and tapped the throttle a few times here and there. Some high rpms but mostly a few small steady taps.
Then I let it cool down.
Today my girlfriend is driving it to work (its hers for commuting) so she is going to let it warm up like 20 mins before driving and then she will be driving it like she normally would. She will not keep it at full WOT the entire time. She will some of the time but her drive is about 10-15mins.
I think between what I did last night and her drive to work today it's pretty much broken in.
any thoughts?
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Post by "Big Guy" on Feb 1, 2013 14:37:16 GMT -5
First off, completely disregard snugglebubby's quoted post by sangrelx... she obviously has no clue what a 2-stroke is! As the largest shop in New Orleans, we service thousands of these every year, and we use Maxima Scooter Pro 2T Oil exclusively. Never had a single problem with it yet. It appears to burn more completely and cleaner (less pipe build up). I personally use MotoMan's hard break-in on all my scooters and motorcycles. Developed by bootleggers, perfected by Nascar... but it appears you're past that point. I can't stress enough doing a good PDI -- the link to mine is in my signature. Just skip the oil and water sections, but everything else is still applicable. Keep a close eye on your oil!! These things are notorious for defective low oil sensors! And always use regular gas if possible... no E-10 or E-15 unless you can't find gas. Good luck and congrats on the new scooters! -Rich
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Post by sangrelx on Feb 1, 2013 15:43:33 GMT -5
Rich,
She has a lot of hills going into work. So I think during that part of the ride she should probably just WOT it and let everything heat up and stretch out.
then the last few minutes id say about 5 minutes of her ride is in city. So she will be going lower speeds and RPM Ranges.
So given how her daily commute is I think breaking it in tonight solid WOT after warming it up for 20 mins will let the engine expand as far as possible then ease it into town and park it.
Sound about right?
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Post by "Big Guy" on Feb 1, 2013 18:56:31 GMT -5
Could be, who knows for sure? The only *proven* surefire way to break in an engine is MotoMan's... I trust the mechanics at Nascar.
What you did sounds logical, but you probably know most of these scooters are a cr@p shoot anyway. I will say that we have the least amount of problems with the 2-strokes we sell, and that seems pretty common in the industry.
Good Luck!
-Rich
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Post by sangrelx on Feb 2, 2013 9:51:02 GMT -5
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