oil level

[ce]

Yeah, it's all 3/16, although the nipples on the fuel pump are 1/4, so it's a stretch, but it ain't coming off. 3 feet oughtta do it, keep the lines as short as you can, and in actuality, all the admonishments about the poor quality of the hoses is kind of dated, since late 2008 most assembly was done with a better quality hose. Still Chinese, but look for a brand name as an indication of better hose. As long as it's supple, it's fine, just check the ends and clamps.

The stuff should work for a while, but with heat it hardens and the ends loosen up.

You're on the right track to be repair capable,and it costs $3 for two T's, or the whole assortment box of 1/8 3/16/ and 1/4 T's Y's couplers is $8. I keep spares on the scoot with a tool pouch, and only needed some within a half mile of the house. The trip up to 11,000 feet at the Santa Fe Ski Area did not require any repairs, but it's best to be prepared.

[ce]

Some people like to use zip ties instead of clamps, but those also harden with heat, altough I had difficulty finding small enough screw clamps, and spring clamps were like a buck apiece.

Anyway, you're a neophyte by any measure, so do what you think is best, everyone who has experience learned the hard way, and the only ones who don't deserve respect often call themselves "scooter mecganics", and they usually work at dealerships.

We don't trust them, they rely on the unitiated to practice their abuse.

It's all here on Scootdawg, I learned everything I know talking to good people here. And I made a bunch of stuff up on my own. But I'm not a mechanic, I just like werkin' on scuuters.

Get the electric impact wrench at Harbor Freight, hell yeah, 250 foot pounds of massive head banging torque, baby!

[whid]

Outstanding advice! Thank you! Ive always been one to pay close attention to the ones who've
"been there, done that". Experience is truly the best teacher. I will spend whatever to set the scoot
Up for success. It was a bargain after all. Not gonna skimp on the extra few bucks to do it right the
First time the clothing is off. Lol.
I've done some fabricating in my time, so the things I clearly see to be improved upon, I will address.
But still a young Dawg, still need my elder dawgs to lead me thru the woods.

[leo]

if you have the same frame as mine (which i doubt) then the following toolset will serve you well.
everything except the breakerbar can be carried in a fanny pack strapped around your waist.
i have my breakerbar lashed to one of the inside rails.
be careful though, rough rides will cause you to lose it if it isn't lashed good enough.
scootdawg.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=200cc&action=display&thread=44594

[whid]

Leo & ce.... I am a bit puzzled as to why a respected Admin on another site would recommend the other size fuel lines... ? Do dawgs increase line capacity and just clamp um hard had the nipples? I would think this is going to throw the whole fuel system balance off with the vacuum, jetting, etc. So short of stripping her down and taking a cab with snips to make sure I get the right stuff... I believe you guys have advised to stick with what is there. 3/16.
Just a few more questions to make certain I am crystal clear.

1.Should I use reducers to bring 1/4 off the pump for a few inches then down to the 3/16?

2. Will fuel line be acceptable in vacuum line replacement? In my previous size purchase, auto zone said they were out of vac. but that fuel line will work the same. But Guys, IT's HUGE. scared it will be tough route the same or fit in some areas.

3. I know this is a tough one depending on my exact scoot... But ruff'ly, (lol) how many clamps will I need?
Started to buy 4 four packs... but got to thinking with the 2 T or Y intersections, I may be needing twice that.

4. Anything I may need to do after, other than filler back up with fuel. Like carb adjustments or anything?

Thanks for helpin me learn to hunt and track and stuff dawgs dooo....

[ce]

The chinese lines are metric, and in betwen 3/16 and 1/4, so go with the tight fit to avoid leaks.

Don't use the fuel line for vac, and go to Ace hardware to get band clamps and maybe a good vac line, and see if they have fuel lines for lawnmowers and chainsaws.

Best of all, search down at the bottom here for 'fuel line replacement', and start reading, on page 4 there's some good photographs in a thread about why does jrryan recommend 1/4 lines?

Make sure you get to page 7, and catch the discussion of sucking and pumping by Bryce and Alauda, on the thread about the 244.

[jazzman]

Put up the LINK ce, the search you suggest does not bring up what you are referring to.

[ce]

Uh, dude, I'm old, I don't know how to do that.

I just typed in fuel line replacement in the Google custom search, below the quick reply, not the search feature up top, et voila, it's awesome, all the old threads are all about this.

[jazzman]

Please don't play games with me BRO beside I am older than you by 10 years. I know you from other forums. Just go to the place and LEFT CLICK on the link until it turns all blue then RIGHT CLICK and a list of options will come up CLICK ON COPY come here and right click in your post and CLICK on PASTE. You cannot bullsh!t a bullsh!tter

[ce]

Thanks, dude, I guess you can't do it either.

You must be older than the Rolling Stones, watch out you don't break a hip.

[leo]

wow.
anyway . . .
my carb inlet is about 6 inches below the gas tank outlet.
i used 3/8 inch ID gas line from NAPA, an unknown type of gas filter, and a briggs and stratton manual fuel valve.

[whid]

Wow.. 3/8? That is a heck of a jump from 3/16 nipples. did you find it loose going on and just clamp the snot out of it?
I found some good hose, i think, to use as vacuum. The auto stores don't seem to carry 3/16 vacuum much... and the 3/16 Fuel is pretty big still. Must have been for FI
so....
Found 3/16 fuel line by Prime Line. It is much smaller in OD but it being "fuel line" I'm assuming it will stand up to the heat just fine. It looks like just clear fish aquarium tube, but specs for fuel line.
So will this work for the vacuum well?

Then found Prestone 3/16 Fuel/Emission line. much thicker as it has the fiber within the walls. But much smaller than the 5/16 and 3/8 i had been instructed to pick up.
Now the tricky part...
Since these are both prepackaged, they come in 2' lengths. I'll buy as many as I need, but don't want to add connectors cause 2' is not long enough for my longest connection.

Do you think 2' will span my longest needed connection?

[jazzman]

Get your measure tape out and measure each part you need a fuel hose and each part you need vacuum line. Reason most say 1/4 and 3/16 is your carb nipples take a 3/16 hose Vacuum or fuel while the Fuel Pump and or Petcock take 1/4. What I do is use VISU Filter between the pump and the carb with a 1/4 inlet from the pump and a 3/16 outlet going to the carb.

www.bikebandit.com/visu-filter-large-capacity-in-line-fuel-filter

[whid]

If only it were that easy... like i was saying... once I start this, there is no turning back or I will have to take a cab to get any supplies as this is my only transportation.
So digging for the most accurate info from anybody that may own or know this scoot inside and out.

[jazzman]

It is easy you just have to help yourself. Unless someone has the same scoot and is willing to go and measure the sh!t for you, here is what I suggest, get 3 feet of 1/4 fuel hose and 3 feet of 3/16 vacuum hose and you will have plenty.

[leo]

Dec 21, 2012 18:25:23 GMT -5 whid said:

So digging for the most accurate info from anybody that may own or know this scoot inside and out.

the only one that knows your scoot is you.
for example:
how far below the tank outlet is the carb inlet on your bike?
if the carb inlet is above the tank outlet then you will need some kind of pump.
the line itself should be run along the side rails sloping towards the carb if it's gravity fed.
be sure to leave enough slack to allow engine movement.

[whid]

"It is easy you just have to help yourself. Unless someone has the same scoot and is willing to go and measure the sh!t for you"

Jazz,
I'm trying to help myself, by setting the scoot up to be long lived per
the advisement of the PDI. I don't know how much "free time" you have on your hands, but mine is extra minimal. And this is my only transportation.
I thought I was helping myself by seeking out the advisement of Guru's.
I heard along the way, there are more of these on the road than most any other. The thing is, I don't know, what I don't know! I've heard horror stories of putting this puzzle box back together.

And I don't know how much I must strip off to acquire all the facts. I also can't seem to find anywhere in the manual (heh) how much is required to get it ride-able so I can take my facts of knowing exactly how many of what and what lengths I will need to the supply stores. I can soooo easily believe you would have to reassemble anything near the seat or that the seat is dependent upon in order to achieve a solid, safe seat. That's the whole body.

I also know, with this quality of plastic. It's something I want to do one time. Some may advise, "it goes back together easier the more times you do it" I think not! Well I am certain the pieces will join up easier.... from all the chips and fractures out of the paint and plastic from the first time. But if you really look for the bright side, the scoot is rattling even better and looks kinda neat as camo vs. one entire paint job and a firm fit n finish.

I took my windshield off to eliminate the vibration. I was astonished I got the front part of the nose fairing off with out it snapping in half. One side free right up and came loose. But it looks as tho whoever assembled it, glued or epoxied one side in so it would retain while they attempted to get the other side in.

When I brought it in the house to apply the striping, I noticed two half dollar sized star burst deep in my paint where they had applied so much pressure, that the 2 lower bolts for the windshield caused the paint to shatter. Thant was just ONE PIECE of body plastic. Maybe they were just helping me pick the spot to add 2 LED clusters for better visibility. Bright Side!

So.... It may very well just be 10-15 minutes to get her apart to find the info I need. and 15-20 to get in back together so I can ride it to buy what I need LMAO. Then come home and repeat. Again, I don't know, what I don't know.

The bright side in all this is that I met a new friend on another forum that live pretty close to me with the same scoot. I will be able to relay exactly what I have learned.

Leo,
The only thing I really KNOW of my scoot. Is it has run just fine since Thanksgiving while riding everyday. It has a Vacuum pump...
It has been sucking the fuel well to this point.
Hence all the questions about varying from it's current design with larger hoses, shorter where allowable, Y's & T's and routing variations etc. etc.
The volumetrics in consideration of the capacity of the hoses, fuel, vac and the pump seems to be at a very delicate balance to work as well as it does.
A fella in TX I think it was, on this site, had and outstanding diary/posting of his 13k at that point. Ed I want to say is his name.... He was road tripping to little towns all over the the state...? Anyway. He installed a vac sensor/ fuel pressure gauge. He almost couldn't believe it ran as well as it did.
At low speeds, the pressure was, lets say, marginal. What blew he and I away upon reading his findings was that the faster you go, the less pressure you got. At 40-60, he was showing Zero pressure. It's like it goes into this perpetual state of circulation... Too much for me! !

I thoroughly researched as much as possible on this before preceding with the reconstruction. Just like with the plastic, I can soooo believe that if you went to far with this balance, I would be in negative vacuum. LOL. That would be awesome if it ran. My tank would fill up instead of run dry.... hehe.

Sure, all this can be addressed with the upgrade to an ele. pump. and then wiring and I'm sure the R/R in not far behind.... So, I don't want to go deeper than I have to.
There is not a single problem that cannot be fixed on any form of transportation. It may require replacing the entire eng. and trans. but its fixable right? If it melted to the ground in a fire .... Totally fixable with buying an entirely new scoot. hehe

Thank You Guys for all your input! 115% better than the manual.... lol
May you and yours have a blessed and safe Holiday season!!!!!

[leo]

Dec 23, 2012 5:00:20 GMT -5 whid said:

And this is my only transportation.

i love scooters as much as the next person but i WOULD NOT have a scooter as my only transportation.
a lack of carrying capacity is a serious shortcoming for ALL 2 wheels,.

I've heard horror stories of putting this puzzle box back together.

some of it is true, some isn't.
i just hope you kept your bolt order correct, some bolts on some bikes MUST go back into the hole they came from.

And I don't know how much I must strip off to acquire all the facts.

i didn't have to strip off anything to remove and replace my fuel line.
all i had to do was raise the seat and remove the underseat storage bin.
i finally got tired of removing the bin so i got rid of it permanently.

. . . so I can take my facts of knowing exactly how many of what and what lengths I will need to the supply stores.

go to NAPA, get 4 feet of your favorite hose, get a fuel filter that fits the hose.

I can soooo easily believe you would have to reassemble anything near the seat or that the seat is dependent upon in order to achieve a solid, safe seat. That's the whole body.

nothing except my butt depends on the seat being there.

But if you really look for the bright side, the scoot is rattling even better . . .

you need to find the source of the rattle and correct it before you find yourself sliding on your face on the pavement at 60MPH.
mine rattles but its the chrome piece on the muffler.

But it looks as tho whoever assembled it, glued or epoxied one side in so it would retain while they attempted to get the other side in.

this is the fault of the person you bought the scoot from.
i find it hard to believe a dealer would do something like that.

The volumetrics in consideration of the capacity of the hoses, fuel, vac and the pump seems to be at a very delicate balance to work as well as it does.

there is only one thing to consider.
where is your gas tank outlet in relation to your carb inlet.
if it is at least 6 inches above the carb inlet then 1/4 inch hose will work.

Anyway. He installed a vac sensor/ fuel pressure gauge. He almost couldn't believe it ran as well as it did.
At low speeds, the pressure was, lets say, marginal. What blew he and I away upon reading his findings was that the faster you go, the less pressure you got. At 40-60, he was showing Zero pressure. It's like it goes into this perpetual state of circulation... Too much for me! !

this is the reason i replaced my vacuum valve with a manual one.

Sure, all this can be addressed with the upgrade to an ele. pump.

or a good quality vacuum pump.
i hear mikuni offers such a pump.

[whid]

dang it... I knew I just should have went with the unlimited bus pass and a really nice set of headphones....
After going a month with NO transportation, I was kinda digging not walking.