|
|
Post by leo on Nov 9, 2012 11:15:51 GMT -5
a battery serves one purpose, to start your vehicle.
if you have a kick starter then the battery is not needed and nothing needs to take its place.
|
|
|
|
Post by inuyasha on Nov 9, 2012 11:18:48 GMT -5
Thanks guys for your support! I'm asking a lot of questions, and have a lot of ideas. But just like we had a thread a while ago, of someone who thought he could improve his bike, by putting a bigger muffler on it, I explained what I have learned from this forum, and did not ridicule him for not knowing; neither did I judge him to be stupid, or treat him with sarcasm. I think there's no excuse for treating people bad, not on a single forum, neither will you in real life! I know, the forum is more hidden, and you can vent your frustrations, but if you did it in real life, you might end up with someone's fist in your face, and a bleeding nose if you're not careful. I also admire Hank's professionalism in all of this, and when I look at people making fun of others, I just think that I was there as well, about 10 years ago. Perhaps in 10 years those guys will mature, and start getting bored of laughing at someone else. After all, they do evil to me, they probably do it to others as well. It's only going to end up returning to them. Hi Thank you my friend ;D  but im just being myself scootdawg.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=generaldiscussion&thread=55538&page=1#538353Take care and ride safely Yours Hank |
|
|
|
Post by qwertydude on Nov 9, 2012 11:34:25 GMT -5
Ok if you don't understand the electrical engineering theory I don't think there's enough time or enough of my patience for me to go over AC theory, power transfer efficiency and capacitance and inductance. They're very difficult ideas to grasp. DC theory is simple enough for many people to understand but once you go AC you have to deal with real vs apparent power. When you start mixing inductors and capacitors you have currents start to flow back and forth between the capacitor and inductor because that forms a resonant LC circuit.
Just do it. Go attach an audio grade 12v capacitor kick start and drive it. Like I said I've done this and at high RPM the regulator can not control the voltage anymore.
|
|
|
|
Post by scootnwinn on Nov 9, 2012 14:17:55 GMT -5
Thanks guys for your support! I'm asking a lot of questions, and have a lot of ideas. But just like we had a thread a while ago, of someone who thought he could improve his bike, by putting a bigger muffler on it, I explained what I have learned from this forum, and did not ridicule him for not knowing; neither did I judge him to be stupid, or treat him with sarcasm. I think there's no excuse for treating people bad, not on a single forum, neither will you in real life!I know, the forum is more hidden, and you can vent your frustrations, but if you did it in real life, you might end up with someone's fist in your face, and a bleeding nose if you're not careful.I also admire Hank's professionalism in all of this, and when I look at people making fun of others, I just think that I was there as well, about 10 years ago. Perhaps in 10 years those guys will mature, and start getting bored of laughing at someone else. After all, they do evil to me, they probably do it to others as well. It's only going to end up returning to them. Seriously?? I can't help but think that this post is loaded with a lot of BS! Sorry, but I don't agree on many points. What do you call that above?? Then you "apologized". An apology followed by however is not an apology. Then you admit that you didn't even read it you just insulted me for the sake of it. I'm sorry you feel offended, however,... ...So after that, I did not continue to read your post, because already from the beginning I did not agree. Talk about immature. I have been on the earth for nearly 4 decades now and despite your beliefs most people enjoy a little sarcasm. I have never been punched in the face for being sarcastic I doubt that will ever happen either. Sarcasm is not evil, really. Its intended to make a person think a little about what they have said and be just a little humorous. Yes at the expense of someone else but goodness dude don't take yourself so seriously, we certainly don't. Ten years ago I used to sit around with folks and dream up wild impractical ideas I later found out were ridiculous. I quit smoking pot though... Dude I have tried to answer a lot of your questions and have answered some with out any sarcasm at all. If you can't handle some gentle ribbing while constantly shooting out wild ideas stop posting the ideas. Test them and post results. You present your self as looking for answers when what you are looking for is someone to stroke your ego. When people offer you sound facts and even their own experiences about why your latest pipe dream won't work you tell they are wrong. You don't take the opportunity to learn... Anyway I intended no harm with my remarks I treated you no differently than I treat my friends. You have had some interesting thoughts at times and I acknowledge those, I enjoyed your latest 50cc tour report with the alligators immensely (no sarcasm I actually did) and I reserve the right to continue to treat you as I would anyone I know. I will just be me. By all accounts I have always been sarcastic I don't think it will change not even in 10 years... |
|
|
|
Post by prodigit on Nov 9, 2012 18:26:00 GMT -5
scootnwinn, there's no excuse for your behavior, not even trying to prove yourself with whatever you post. I can say someone's post is BS, and I can say I disagree with someone's idea. But I don't ridicule a person for writing BS, which is what you've done on multiple occasions. I'm not going to elaborate on this anymore, this is not a thread devoted unto your sense of righteousness, or how you can try to justify whatever you've been saying on this thread and on this forum. I've had several PMs of ?several users (or perhaps one and the same with many aliases)? going beyond decency and politeness. This thread is about caps, please remain ON TOPIC! qwertydude: The cap should be connected where the battery is, so it's DC, not ac.
|
|
|
|
Post by scootnwinn on Nov 9, 2012 19:06:10 GMT -5
I wasn't excusing it I was telling you to get over it enjoy your thread I'm done
|
|
|
|
Post by jlee on Nov 9, 2012 19:22:52 GMT -5
qwertydude: The cap should be connected where the battery is, so it's DC, not ac. A cap does not convert AC to DC. A diode does. |
|
|
|
Post by carasdad on Nov 9, 2012 22:43:28 GMT -5
qwertydude: The cap should be connected where the battery is, so it's DC, not ac. A cap does not convert AC to DC. A diode does. That is true! It takes a group of diodes connected...creating a bridge rectifier to make AC into DC...and then does he realize most bridge rectifiers require a heatsink to vent of heat produced..or they will fry. To argue with those that work with electronics is silly.... I work in the cardiac medical field...so maybe he can explain Cardio Myopathy to me...and how to properly diagnose and treat it..  ............. |
|
|
|
Post by prodigit on Nov 10, 2012 0:27:13 GMT -5
The battery is DC, isn't it?
You already have a rectifier in your bike.
1/2 of your bike's power grid is low voltage DC
|
|
|
|
Post by larrball on Nov 10, 2012 1:49:22 GMT -5
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Good call Dudley. Keeping the peace.  Some of prodigy's threads are well written and very entertaining to read, they might not all be the better working ideal for mine and your scooter, but if it's anything you take away from his post's it's how to use that extremely hard to use "spell check". Folks we went through this crap back in 2010, let's not start up. ====================================== Now back to the scooters fluX-capactor for 2013. I'm sorry that we do not all speak English. Perhaps you should try writing an article in Dutch, and see how 'correct' it would be? Please keep in mind, that there are a whole bunch of people who would get offended for ridiculing them for not 'perfectly' speaking English, despite all their efforts. Besides, I've seen worse... I thank you took that the wrong way . It was a complement. |
|
|
|
Post by prodigit on Nov 10, 2012 2:21:15 GMT -5
I'm sorry that we do not all speak English. Perhaps you should try writing an article in Dutch, and see how 'correct' it would be? Please keep in mind, that there are a whole bunch of people who would get offended for ridiculing them for not 'perfectly' speaking English, despite all their efforts. Besides, I've seen worse... I thank you took that the wrong way . It was a complement. My apologies! |
|
|
|
Post by qwertydude on Nov 10, 2012 19:22:22 GMT -5
It is not fully DC a lot of the scooters is a pulsed DC, because it isn't a full wave bridge rectifier, it's a diode with an SCR connecting the AC to ground and that pulse replicates an AC signal which means you'll still have current pulses and the high peaks and when the SCR stops conducting you still have back EMF trying to force current through the system thus heating it up like I've previously spoke of.
It seems every post I make everyone completely forgets my previous posts as to how these electrical systems act. And goes back to assuming these systems work like a pure DC system when they don't.
|
|
|
|
Post by leo on Nov 10, 2012 20:03:16 GMT -5
i keep trying to picture this.
if the bridge consists of SCR's then they must start conduction at zero volts and stop somewhere around 13.5 volts.
also most of these stators are 3 phase which means you get 3 pulses for each revolution.
the real question is whether the DC supply will decay enough between pulses to inhibit the CDI.
even at idle you are getting around 6,000 pulses, 100 a second.
|
|
|
|
Post by qwertydude on Nov 10, 2012 23:13:00 GMT -5
The 150cc regulators are 3 phase the 50cc ones are single phase. The SCR isn't used to create a short pulse that charges the battery, that makes for very difficult control of the inductive kick when they'll turn off. Instead the SCR's are switched on and to short circuit to ground and turn off when the phase reverses. Here's a diagram and explanation of how it works. home.comcast.net/~loudgpz/GPZweb/RegRec/GPZvRegMagnetField.htmlNotice the trigger is set to 14.6 volts because they designed the system around the ripple a lead acid battery creates due to the opposition in voltage rise a lead acid battery has. Put in a large capacitor and you disrupt the sensing system by applying nearly no voltage ripple in the signal, so the less ripple the higher the average voltage the capacitor will charge to. That's what leads to the rise in average voltage of the system. As for where the heat comes from. Since you've removed the ripple, as soon as the capacitor charges to 14.6 volts, very fast because of the TC of zero of an essentially shorted capacitor to inductor, the SCR's turn on pretty much at the beginning of the cycle vs a slight delay after. This little bit of extra conduction leads the SCR's to short out longer and that creates the excess heat which is significant enough to make a the rectifier hot to the touch. All this also doesn't take into consideration the I^2xR losses of having those very high peak currents and yes these regulators do have trouble with the very high pulse rates at high RPM it has even more trouble indicated by my experience of the regulators output rising to 16-17 volts at high RPM with the capacitor. |
|
|
|
Post by jlee on Nov 11, 2012 2:51:36 GMT -5
Are you assuming that all scooter regulators are shunt regulators? That schematic appears to be someone's project for a replacement regulator. Here is a shipping motorcycle regulator schematic: www.hazmat.com/~mjb/candm/regulator.html |
|
|
|
Post by Blueboy5000 on Nov 11, 2012 8:04:59 GMT -5
As a licensed Automotive technician, with 17 years of professional experience, my vote is for useless speculative nonsensical troll bait.
Possible? We yes, it is. Smart/safe? Hell to the no! A capacitor cannot deal with the sheer amount of voltage produced by even our small charging systems. This is practically a guarantee that you will indeed destroy your electrical system as a capacitor will not be able to adequately deal with voltages produced and regulated by the VRR.
But EVEN MORE IMPORTANT: why? Just why? What is wrong with batteries and their superior charge and discharge capacity that you would feel in necessary to eliminate a battery?
Perhaps you should eliminate the battery and replace it with a small cold-fusion generator.
|
|
|
|
Post by prodigit on Nov 11, 2012 8:15:14 GMT -5
Maybe a small cap could charge with one peak, however large (1Farad or larger) caps don't.
Instead of having higher voltages, because of their low resistance, they would rather drop the voltage (initially, in the first phase of the pulse) to a lower voltage than what is the case with a battery.
So in other words, while with a battery, the regulator has already reached 14V, and is grounding it, (battery is still charging though), with a cap, the voltage might still be at 13.8V.
Don't forget, that a cap will also release voltage better than a battery, so if there's a draw from somewhere, it'll immediately provide power, while a battery is a little slower in this aspect, I believe...
I guess the ripples you mention are from when a cap is fully charged. at that point (perhaps, a middle of a peak) it will draw no more power from the regulator, while a battery still would.
So the question I had is 'when does the CDI draw the most power in this cycle? At the beginning of the cycle, or of the end?
If the CDI charges the most (probably when the spark plug releases) at the beginning of the cycle, then there will be 2 heavy drainers on the stator in the beginning. If at the end, then it could compensate the cap's load.
Also, 4 stroke means that the CDI is charging over 3 cycles, and releases over 1.
Some people said the CDI charges over AC, but I see no reason why the DC circuit does not affect the AC circuit.
|
|
|
|
Post by scootnwinn on Nov 11, 2012 10:19:38 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by carasdad on Nov 11, 2012 10:34:16 GMT -5
The 150cc regulators are 3 phase the 50cc ones are single phase. The SCR isn't used to create a short pulse that charges the battery, that makes for very difficult control of the inductive kick when they'll turn off. Instead the SCR's are switched on and to short circuit to ground and turn off when the phase reverses. Here's a diagram and explanation of how it works. home.comcast.net/~loudgpz/GPZweb/RegRec/GPZvRegMagnetField.htmlNotice the trigger is set to 14.6 volts because they designed the system around the ripple a lead acid battery creates due to the opposition in voltage rise a lead acid battery has. Put in a large capacitor and you disrupt the sensing system by applying nearly no voltage ripple in the signal, so the less ripple the higher the average voltage the capacitor will charge to. That's what leads to the rise in average voltage of the system. As for where the heat comes from. Since you've removed the ripple, as soon as the capacitor charges to 14.6 volts, very fast because of the TC of zero of an essentially shorted capacitor to inductor, the SCR's turn on pretty much at the beginning of the cycle vs a slight delay after. This little bit of extra conduction leads the SCR's to short out longer and that creates the excess heat which is significant enough to make a the rectifier hot to the touch. All this also doesn't take into consideration the I^2xR losses of having those very high peak currents and yes these regulators do have trouble with the very high pulse rates at high RPM it has even more trouble indicated by my experience of the regulators output rising to 16-17 volts at high RPM with the capacitor. Not to hijack the OP thread....but. You mentioned our 50cc scoots use a half wave rectifiers. 3 of mine use full wave rectifiers....so what is the difference and why do they use full wave vice half wave? I understand how a rectifier works...but don't get why the full wave vs. half wave. Fill me in?....  |
|
|
|
Post by prodigit on Nov 11, 2012 10:44:15 GMT -5
Half way rectifiers use 1 single diode to rectify a positive wave of a sine. Full way rectifiers use what's known as a 'graetz bridge', 4 diodes, to rectify every of the sine wave of AC, and harvesting 50% more energy.
The latter is what is supposed to be on a scooter, as the parts themselves cost less than 50ct, and with installation included on industrial scale, it'd be a $1 installation cost, for 50% more of electrical power;
unless they use the negative part of the wave for other purposes?
Concerning the spark plug and revolutions, you're right, I was thinking in quadrants or strokes, rather than revolutions.
|
|
|
|
Post by qwertydude on Nov 11, 2012 10:44:55 GMT -5
The CDI is on its own coil and is AC operated so you can totally ignore its effect on the operation of the electrical system.
The drain you will see and this applies especially to 150cc scooters is the lighting which is a constant drain, at 1 farad it won't appreciably cause the voltage of the cap to drop, the TC of a 1 farad cap at a 5-8 amp draw is longer than even the idle ripple of the three phase system. So with a capacitor there won't be a voltage ripple and the regulator will want to maintain too high a voltage.
The ripple from a battery is caused by the opposition of the battery to charging at a higher voltage so you can try to feed it peaks of 14.6 volts but the delay in the voltage rise of the battery means it will settle at a peak of 14.4 volts.
And a cap doesn't "release" voltage better than a battery. It can supply extremely high current, more than a battery but only for a short period of time, but in this case it has no effect because a circuit only uses as much current as the applied voltage divided by the resistance, this is ohms law. And applies to DC circuits only. Like I said here's everyone automatically jumping on DC assumptions again. When you have a capacitor being used to store energy you don't assume it starts off in a zero state of charge because that's only at the very beginning, no you have make your calculations when the system is at steady state.
This is why I get tired of explaining AC systems. And the next post invariably will come back trying to explain everything in terms of DC again.
|
|
|
|
Post by qwertydude on Nov 11, 2012 10:49:55 GMT -5
The 150cc regulators are 3 phase the 50cc ones are single phase. The SCR isn't used to create a short pulse that charges the battery, that makes for very difficult control of the inductive kick when they'll turn off. Instead the SCR's are switched on and to short circuit to ground and turn off when the phase reverses. Here's a diagram and explanation of how it works. home.comcast.net/~loudgpz/GPZweb/RegRec/GPZvRegMagnetField.htmlNotice the trigger is set to 14.6 volts because they designed the system around the ripple a lead acid battery creates due to the opposition in voltage rise a lead acid battery has. Put in a large capacitor and you disrupt the sensing system by applying nearly no voltage ripple in the signal, so the less ripple the higher the average voltage the capacitor will charge to. That's what leads to the rise in average voltage of the system. As for where the heat comes from. Since you've removed the ripple, as soon as the capacitor charges to 14.6 volts, very fast because of the TC of zero of an essentially shorted capacitor to inductor, the SCR's turn on pretty much at the beginning of the cycle vs a slight delay after. This little bit of extra conduction leads the SCR's to short out longer and that creates the excess heat which is significant enough to make a the rectifier hot to the touch. All this also doesn't take into consideration the I^2xR losses of having those very high peak currents and yes these regulators do have trouble with the very high pulse rates at high RPM it has even more trouble indicated by my experience of the regulators output rising to 16-17 volts at high RPM with the capacitor. Not to hijack the OP thread....but. You mentioned our 50cc scoots use a half wave rectifiers. 3 of mine use full wave rectifiers....so what is the difference and why do they use full wave vice half wave? I understand how a rectifier works...but don't get why the full wave vs. half wave. Fill me in?.... If you have only two yellow wires going into the regulator it's half wave. It's just how these things regulate, you can't have a full wave bridge and simultaneously control the voltage without getting into seriously hot running electronics, you'd probably burn up the coils in the stator. But in the case of the 50cc regulator the bottom half of the wave is used to power the AC lights, along with the top half but the top half is sharing charging duty with the the regulator which is why also if you put too strong a bulb in the 50cc you end up not able to charge the battery. If you have three yellow wires you still have half wave rectification but it's spread to three phases. In both situation the bottom half of the wave is simply blocked and not used to charge the battery and that keeps regulator design a lot simpler. |
|
|
|
Post by prodigit on Nov 11, 2012 10:56:39 GMT -5
...A capacitor cannot deal with the sheer amount of voltage produced by even our small charging systems. I don't know what you're talking about, but when replacing a battery with a cap on a scoot, we're talking about 12V (14V max perhaps). Voltage is regulated by the regulator, so there are no spikes to deal with. Just voltage fluctuations. Everything AFTER the regulator, is regulated DC (perhaps choppy, but it's regulated). |
|
|
|
Post by jlee on Nov 11, 2012 11:06:50 GMT -5
Guys - the voltage rating on the side of a capacitor is NOT the voltage it "charges to"! It is the maximum safe operating voltage (DC). The cap will happily continue charging beyond that point until it breaks down internally and destroys itself.
EDIT: A side note - today's "large" capacitor designs, in the 0.1 farad range and larger, are not capacitors at all, but "leaky" batteries with moderate internal resistance.
|
|
|
|
Post by carasdad on Nov 11, 2012 11:25:05 GMT -5
Not to hijack the OP thread....but. You mentioned our 50cc scoots use a half wave rectifiers. 3 of mine use full wave rectifiers....so what is the difference and why do they use full wave vice half wave? I understand how a rectifier works...but don't get why the full wave vs. half wave. Fill me in?.... If you have only two yellow wires going into the regulator it's half wave. It's just how these things regulate, you can't have a full wave bridge and simultaneously control the voltage without getting into seriously hot running electronics, you'd probably burn up the coils in the stator. But in the case of the 50cc regulator the bottom half of the wave is used to power the AC lights, along with the top half but the top half is sharing charging duty with the the regulator which is why also if you put too strong a bulb in the 50cc you end up not able to charge the battery. If you have three yellow wires you still have half wave rectification but it's spread to three phases. In both situation the bottom half of the wave is simply blocked and not used to charge the battery and that keeps regulator design a lot simpler. Thanks! I am pretty competent with electrical systems(except 3 phase 220AC...totally confuses me) So the full wave rectifiers they sold me are more of a boon to my system than helping it. You are right about bulbs..I took out the 18w stock ones...put in 35w and battery did not seem to want to charge well...had to 'float charge' it frequently. Plus the 35w bulbs kept blowing and the rectifier ran hot to the touch. So I now wonder why my wholesaler kept pushing me towards the full wave vice half wave. Obviously they just sell parts..and know nothing about them... |
|
|
|
Post by qwertydude on Nov 11, 2012 12:43:50 GMT -5
Guys - the voltage rating on the side of a capacitor is NOT the voltage it "charges to"! It is the maximum safe operating voltage (DC). The cap will happily continue charging beyond that point until it breaks down internally and destroys itself. EDIT: A side note - today's "large" capacitor designs, in the 0.1 farad range and larger, are not capacitors at all, but "leaky" batteries with moderate internal resistance. I'd beg to differ, when I run internal resistance measurements on my big 1 farad electrolytic caps I get on the order of 2 milli ohms. That's a lot lower than a battery. To the point where shorting one of these fully charged becomes extremely dangerous. 6000 amps is much more than any lead acid battery can possibly supply. Not only that if you remove the stupid digital voltage circuit many of the cheap caps come with, leakage current is miniscule, these can stay charged for days. If they were really leaky they'd discharge your car's battery when you install them in car audio applications. Those leaky higher internal resistance caps are usually hybrid carbon caps. Those sorta act like batteries by storing the energy in a reversible chemical reaction but still have lower internal resistance than a battery. Then there's the idiotic battcap which is just a battery. Don't confuse 1 farad electrolytics with batteries, they're still 100% a capacitor and should be treated with care as overcharging such a large electrolytic can prove dangerous and same with shorting a fully charged one. |
|
|
|
Post by jlee on Nov 11, 2012 12:53:27 GMT -5
Guys - the voltage rating on the side of a capacitor is NOT the voltage it "charges to"! It is the maximum safe operating voltage (DC). The cap will happily continue charging beyond that point until it breaks down internally and destroys itself. EDIT: A side note - today's "large" capacitor designs, in the 0.1 farad range and larger, are not capacitors at all, but "leaky" batteries with moderate internal resistance. I'd beg to differ, when I run internal resistance measurements on my big 1 farad electrolytic caps I get on the order of 2 milli ohms. That's a lot lower than a battery. To the point where shorting one of these fully charged becomes extremely dangerous. 6000 amps is much more than any lead acid battery can possibly supply. Not only that if you remove the stupid digital voltage circuit many of the cheap caps come with, leakage current is miniscule, these can stay charged for days. If they were really leaky they'd discharge your car's battery when you install them in car audio applications. Those leaky higher internal resistance caps are usually hybrid carbon caps. Those sorta act like batteries by storing the energy in a reversible chemical reaction but still have lower internal resistance than a battery. Then there's the idiotic battcap which is just a battery. Don't confuse 1 farad electrolytics with batteries, they're still 100% a capacitor and should be treated with care as overcharging such a large electrolytic can prove dangerous and same with shorting a fully charged one. The hybrid carbon and battcaps (so-called "supercaps") are what I was referring to because that seems to be what these people are experimenting with. The true electrolytic farad caps are *expensive* and not likely to be purchased by someone who doesn't understand the difference. |
|
|
|
Post by prodigit on Nov 11, 2012 12:56:57 GMT -5
When they overcharge, they could explode, however not like a TNT stick.
They will make a POP sound, disconnect the poles and become useless.
Most of the 1+Farad caps sold today, can not be overcharged on a scooter, as they're usually made for 16-24V applications, perhaps even functional with peaks upto 30V, however the regulator should not be giving out any voltage over 14V..
|
|
|
|
Post by prodigit on Nov 11, 2012 13:03:58 GMT -5
I'd beg to differ, when I run internal resistance measurements on my big 1 farad electrolytic caps I get on the order of 2 milli ohms. That's a lot lower than a battery. To the point where shorting one of these fully charged becomes extremely dangerous. 6000 amps is much more than any lead acid battery can possibly supply. Not only that if you remove the stupid digital voltage circuit many of the cheap caps come with, leakage current is miniscule, these can stay charged for days. If they were really leaky they'd discharge your car's battery when you install them in car audio applications. Those leaky higher internal resistance caps are usually hybrid carbon caps. Those sorta act like batteries by storing the energy in a reversible chemical reaction but still have lower internal resistance than a battery. Then there's the idiotic battcap which is just a battery. Don't confuse 1 farad electrolytics with batteries, they're still 100% a capacitor and should be treated with care as overcharging such a large electrolytic can prove dangerous and same with shorting a fully charged one. The hybrid carbon and battcaps (so-called "supercaps") are what I was referring to because that seems to be what these people are experimenting with. The true electrolytic farad caps are *expensive* and not likely to be purchased by someone who doesn't understand the difference. I don't know much about caps, but I believe most 1-3Farad caps sold between $30-50 online, are aluminum electrolytic caps. |
|
|
|
Post by qwertydude on Nov 11, 2012 13:58:32 GMT -5
When they overcharge, they could explode, however not like a TNT stick. They will make a POP sound, disconnect the poles and become useless. Most of the 1+Farad caps sold today, can not be overcharged on a scooter, as they're usually made for 16-24V applications, perhaps even functional with peaks upto 30V, however the regulator should not be giving out any voltage over 14V.. Yes but if the SCR's fail on the regulator but the diodes survive you can be applying full stator voltage to the capacitor. At high RPM's I've measured stator voltage to be as high as 60 volts AC when on an open circuit. It would be even more dangerous to apply AC voltage to a DC capacitor. They may not explode like a stick of dynamite but applying reverse voltage to a DC capacitor can end up releasing hydrogen gas which could potentially rupture the capacitor dangerously or cause a fire. |
|
but im just being myself
............. 
