MC54B tail light/head light problem problem

[Smoak-Eater]

hello all, I'm having an issue I am hoping to get some advice on..

I have noticed a time or two while working on my bike in the garage the front headlight would flicker. Not go out, just dim then kick back to full power. Nothing else was drawing power, so I assume it wasn't just a heavy electrical load.

Also, I noticed the light low/high beam switch got "soft" and wouldn't turn on the high beams.

I took out my bike for a ride after dark last night, and of course, the lights would dim a bit.

When they would dim, I would flip around on the soft switch, and the lights would get strong again. After a few times though, the lights would go out completely while messing with the switch. Then, and it was totally dark, they went out completely.

My left side cluster has a momentary high beam switch, and it would keep the high beams on, so I taped it down to get it home. When I got home I found that not only were the low beams out, but also all the tail lights, and the brake light wasn't coming on.

The "running lights" in the far upper corners of the headlight assembly are still on, as well as the dash lights. The brake switch still works, as I still have to pull it in to get the bike to start.

I pulled the cluster off the left side, and found the "soft" issue. I bent the little tab back into shape, and the switch is switching like it is supposed to again, but still no lights.

There is still power coming to the cluster, as the momentary high beam switch still lights the high beams.. Do you think I blew a fuse for the regular lights, and if so.. Any ideas on where it might be?

thanks!

Smoak

[skuttadawg]

Sounds like a bad connection and a bulb filament is easy to burn out . The headlight on most is powered by the stator and will brighten when rpms are up and dim at idle . I put in a 1157 LED tail light and my headlights ( I have 2 ) got brighter . Do the blinkers work ? They are powered by the battery . sounds like you need a bulb

[Smoak-Eater]

Yea, the blinkers work in front.. Honestly not sure about the rear, though. I'm thinking it's a connection problem, not bulbs, considering the circumstances. ALL the lights are out a once.

But, I will see about picking up some more bulbs, regardless.

[Smoak-Eater]

OK, quick update. Pulled the rear bulbs, both the running light and brake light filaments on both sides of rear are blown.

Must have happened when the switch messed up. So, if anyone can help me with these next two questions:

Are the low beams and rear tail light power run in circuit? Meaning, if if the rear tail lights blow, will it cut the power to the low beams?

Also, I am trying to get my front headlight bulbs out to test them. I pulled the windshield and can get my hand on the back of the bulb assembly. the bulbs look like regular twist and pull bulbs, but I can't twist them from the back. I feel two screws on either side of the assembly in the back. Can I twist out the bulb assembly, or do those two screws have to come out.. Meaning I have to pull off the whole stinking front fairing?

Thanks!

Smoak

[chromestarhustler]

well investigate before you just tear into it. each side of the 54b has its own harness and connector.

and no they are not twist and pull, they just sit in there, with some lips that clock them, they have a spring wire that holds them in thats under a hook and the other side is hinged, you have to push the wire in by the hook, and unhook it.

next time they flicker and go dim hit the passing light trigger, if they full bright its not the connector, if the switch is going soft, its probably full of dirt, they grease the contacts and dirt can get in there and keep it from making contact.

[Smoak-Eater]

Thanks for the reply, CSH. I actually just got it all working again. turns out what I thought was grease inside the hi/lo switch wasn't grease, it was melted plastic. At some point it got hot and melted onto the three contact points on the piece the wire goes into. I don't know if the bad connection overloaded everything and blew the rear bulbs, or what.

I cleaned off the melt from the contacts, cleaned everything really good, put it back together, and all is good. The flicker in the lights is gone, as well. I assume the bad contact was making the dimming happen, as well as making the overheating worse in the switch.

Glad I double checked before I began to tear apart the front end!

I felt the wires you were talking about, CSH. Just wasn't sure if there was a catch release, or I had to unscrew the screws. I will keep that info for later use, I am sure a headlight will go at some point.

I replaced my bulbs with standard 2057 bulbs, think those are too strong?

[quicksilver]

Here is the skinny on your headlights.

The other day I was experiencing the same thing as you. When flicking my light switch between high and low beam, the lights would work and then stop.

I tore into the switch and found that the plastic that houses the contacts had heated and melted a little. This prevented the contacts to touch, hence no power to the lights. I used a razor blade to clear away the plastic and it worked again.

If you decide to go down this road, be very careful since there is a very small spring within the switch itself.

Good luck.