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Post by mopojo on Feb 25, 2012 17:51:04 GMT -5
Basically just want anyones opinion and/or experience with this company and/or bike. Other than the mechanical side of getting one shipped is there any oustanding problems I should look for? My scooter was just stolen and I have to replace it (it was bought from a local dealer (Beamer III), but I do not have the cash for another). Please help with this if you are so inclined. Thanks ScootDawg. [glow=red,2,300]Green Earth Scooters[/glow] www.greenearthscooters.com/detail.cfm?id=951
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Post by larry001964 on Feb 25, 2012 17:59:36 GMT -5
Help you all I can, what would you like to know ? As you can see I have that exact same scoot just different color..
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Post by inuyasha on Feb 25, 2012 18:02:50 GMT -5
Hi Welcome aboard Pleased to meet you ;D I am at your disposal as well, let us know particulars and we shall do are best Take care and drive safely Yours Hank
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Post by mainepeace on Feb 25, 2012 18:04:47 GMT -5
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Post by mopojo on Feb 25, 2012 18:41:36 GMT -5
'Preciate the quick replies, Dawgs. I was kinda looking for someone to just put up a big STOP sign and a declaration to stay away. Since this did not happen, I feel a little bit encouraged. To break it down ladies/gentlemen, I was wondering if the company Green Earth Scooters could be trusted. Also if there were any legitimate gripes if anyone has/had or is done/doing business with said establishment. Is it unreasonable to epect this scooter to last 10,000 (or more) miles with proper maintenance? Is the scooter stable? Is the scooter dependable with proper maintenance? Is it possible to receive assistance on ScootDawg if I run into a pickle of a problem? Will 2012 really be the end as we know it? ;D
May the road rise to meet you (in a good way).
Jo
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Post by larry001964 on Feb 25, 2012 18:50:56 GMT -5
Well I own one from Green Earth and I personally would not buy from them again.. If you are mechanically inclined and willing to do all the work your self that's different.. I have an entire purchasing experience written on the Green Earth threads here at Scootdawg, along with problems I had after the sale.. This is my experience and I will tell you i won't do it again..
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Post by mainepeace on Feb 25, 2012 18:51:31 GMT -5
As a dealer now I cannot say anything bad about another dealer.
Check the archives for greenearthscooters.
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Post by inuyasha on Feb 25, 2012 18:53:38 GMT -5
Hi Jo To answer your questions in order I have no knowledge of the company in question, try checking them out on the better business website Not at all, A properly maintained scoot should last well beyond that, some on here have over 20,000 miles on them Smaller wheels and tire are more agile larger more stable road wise Scoots are unpredictable but with proper maintenance i would say yes Yes indeed cant speak for the others but im willing and able to help however i can NO, ;D We should be here for 2013 Take care and drive safely Yours Hank
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Post by larry001964 on Feb 25, 2012 19:01:52 GMT -5
« originally posted on May 28, 2011, 9:13pm » Hi Guys, As of this moment I have 771 Miles on my scooter, I bought it from Green Earth Scooters. Green Earth is a dealership for Peace Power Sports Inc, and my particular scooter was manufactured by Chongqing Astronautic Bashan Motorcycle Manufacturing Co. It's a Dash 50, Paid $ 650 including shipping, and it arrived October 15th of last year from Texas, the paper work says it's 3 hp. Green Earth was very good at getting my scooter to me, But communication is not their strong point, I never got a tracking number until it was sitting in my driveway, I had problems out of the box. And I would call them and try to explain the problems, so long as I didn't allow them to hang up and call me back later I got some help. If you allowed them to say we will call you back, it's a call that never comes.. This didn't happen once but several times. Never once did they call me back when they said they would. They did send me a new carb, however it took almost two weeks to arrive.. If you buy anything from Green Earth Scooters there are certain requirements. 1. You your self had better be a mechanic. 2. you had better have money in your hand ready for parts. 3. Know where you will buy your needed parts. ( forget the warranty, unless you have plenty of time to wait ). 4. Have knowledgeable, experienced people you can turn to for advice. ( Thank you Scootdawg and all the guys that helped me ) 5. Be ready and willing to except all responsibility for maintenance and upkeep on your own. 6. Expect nothing at all from Green Earth Scooters, Accept the fact your on your own. 7. know the PDI procedure they give you is only the beginning, change out all vacuum/fuel lines, tear the scooter apart, check and tighten all electrical connections, apply dielectric grease. ( I'm really big with the dielectric grease on these. ) Include a valve adjustment in the PDI, ( several good video's on you tube, and several very good "How To's" by posters here as well.. And last Change that spark plug. Now I will say they got me my scooter very fast, 4 days from Texas to Indiana. but after It was sat down in my driveway with the exception of a new carb that took two weeks.. Every thing else from them stopped. My Scooter runs very well now, but I really have Scootdawg and the knowledgeable posters here to thank more than Green Earth. Sorry for the rant, but I don't want anybody to credit GES with every mile I turn.. Every mile i have on this scooter is because of other posters here at Scootdawgs. And if GES don't like it then they should have returned promised phone calls. scootdawg.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=questionable&action=display&thread=39008
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Post by mopojo on Feb 25, 2012 19:42:47 GMT -5
I'll do a little more research. Thanks for the welcome, info, opinions and assistance. Seriously. Great Forum goin' on here. I'll be back shortly.
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Post by larry001964 on Feb 25, 2012 20:04:07 GMT -5
I'll do a little more research. Thanks for the welcome, info, opinions and assistance. Seriously. Great Forum goin' on here. I'll be back shortly. Welcome mopojo, I'm sorry i didn't say that first. I should have.. Listed is my buying experience with Green Earth, they used to be active on scootdawg but since Green Earth stopped even that. I don't know if they have gotten any better since my experience... I sure hope so. But you should know before you buy..... And you did ask ;D
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Post by inuyasha on Feb 25, 2012 20:06:12 GMT -5
I'll do a little more research. Thanks for the welcome, info, opinions and assistance. Seriously. Great Forum goin' on here. I'll be back shortly. Hi Jo Your most welcome, ;D glad to be of assistance Take care and drive safely Yours Hank
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Post by mopojo on Mar 1, 2012 16:48:33 GMT -5
OK. My biggest fear was not getting the bike at all. At least that fear was allayed. Thanks. So I ordered the scooter and it will be delivered tomorrow (Fri.). A couple of questions: 1) The bike is delivered off of a 18 wheeler. I'll have to get it dropped about 100 yards from my doorsep. Can I move this with a handtruck or something similar? 2) I have all the basic tools; combination wrenches, screwdrivers, large and small adjustable wrenches, threadlock, allen wrenches, soldering iron, liquid gasket stuff (just in case), pliers, cutters, electical tape, crazy-glue and duct-tape. ;D I will acquire some electrical grease. Is there any specialty tools I need to know about? Anything akin to nuclear core extractors or the like? I appologige for my short queries and replies, but there is a lot goin' on right now and it ain't all good. Thanks ScootDawg.
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Post by inuyasha on Mar 1, 2012 16:53:43 GMT -5
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Post by larry001964 on Mar 1, 2012 17:07:10 GMT -5
No special tools required, but it does weight 220 pounds, I guess you and a friend could move it. Its a little big for a hand truck but maybe.
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Post by inuyasha on Mar 1, 2012 17:14:39 GMT -5
No special tools required, but it does weight 220 pounds, I guess you and a friend could move it. Its a little big for a hand truck but maybe. Hi Larry Thats a conservative estimate on weight, as thats only the weight of the scoot, you still need to take into account the crate and steel framework So i would definitely say you would need 2 people at least to move Dont think the hand truck will work, A pallet jack would be a better option Take care and drive safely Yours Hank
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Post by mopojo on Mar 1, 2012 19:29:59 GMT -5
Thanks for the replys, folk. I'm printing out both the PDI from GES and from the link provided by Hank. I don't see me jumping back and forth from bike to PC. I will certainly keep the thread updated as to what I get, how I get it, any and all support requested/recieved from GES and how I get on. Again: Thanks ScootDawgs. Hope I can return the welcome extended me to others.
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Post by inuyasha on Mar 1, 2012 19:33:20 GMT -5
Hi Your most welcome If theres any thing we can do to help just ask Take care and drive safely Yours Hank
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Post by mainepeace on Mar 3, 2012 20:47:26 GMT -5
The scooter in its crate is pretty easy to move with a aheavy duty hand truck on level ground.
Greg
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Post by mopojo on Mar 5, 2012 8:14:04 GMT -5
Received my scooter Friday 1:00 pm (just as the shipping company said; which called me on Thursday to confirm delivery). The driver kindly let me use the pallet jack to scuttle the scoot to my door. The box looked to be in decent shape so I removed it and started the unbolt and unwrap. Not a scratch to be seen. Eager to get to the PDI (alone) the bike was left on the palate and stripped. Two things I noticed right off were an overlong and crimped (cracked)) vacuum hose and that the floor-board rested atop the mains coming off the battery (the mains getting pinched between the floor-board and frame; which were already beginning to show signs of damage]). Cut the hose at the crimp and reconnected fine. The mains were easily rerouted in a safe manner. I kiced the starter without the battery connected. Fired right up. After about 6 hours of checking electrical and mechanical connections (which all seemed fine but secured them with the recommended materials anyway), I took it for a spin. Front brake pistons had to be mannually spread for they apparantly had "stove-up" and needed a little push to freedom. Everything runs great as far as I can tell. The bike is built and rides better than the MIA E-ton Beamer 50. A couple of questions: 1) Is it normal for the engine to run at 7,000 (or slightly more) RPM at take-off and throughout the break-in stage (say 25 MPH )? 2) Should I change out all the bulbs when I change the battery (a front turn indicator has gone out)?
About question 1: Could a not fully charged/working battery cause the high rev (an acid cell had leaked in packaging and I used it anyway). I did not charge the battery but let it sit for 6 hours. It starts the bike fine. All other lights work fine. I will replace this battery.
I am missing the four (4) bolts and nuts that connect the trunk to the trunk base plate (metal part).
All in all, I am completely satisfied with the product I purchased from Green Earth Sooters. All e-mails and calls have been responded to and/or answered.
I have yet to file for legal docs but will update that aspect as well.
Thanks ScootDawgs. Think I'll stick around for awhile if'n's that's okay with the lot of you?
Edit: I changed the sparkplug and all fluids. Running 92 octane.
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Post by mainepeace on Mar 5, 2012 8:23:59 GMT -5
We're happy that you're happy.
Good luck in getting the bolts! I have a few extra ones if they end up being non-responsive that I could send you.
You only need to replace the bulbs when they go out. However, you may want to replace them with LED bulbs eventually. You get better charging, especially with the small batteries. You NEED to charge the battery up fully. It has to to with the chemicals.
The battery has nothing to do with the revving. It is normal to rev that high. Actually it sounds like you have light rollers in there. 7000 is about where you want to be at as the power curve peaks around 7500.
Greg
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Post by mopojo on Mar 5, 2012 8:56:37 GMT -5
Thanks, Greg. I am not that worried about the bolts, I can run to the local hardware shop and grab a few. Think I'll save the calls to GES for something more serious than that. ;D Gotta do laundry so I'll let teh auto parts store charge the battery while I wait on the clothes. I'll also look at some LEDs while I am there. I'll do some research on "light rollers" and see what I can find about the subject.
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Post by mopojo on Mar 6, 2012 8:21:56 GMT -5
If I am not mistaken, light rollers are needed if terrain is hilly and one prefers low end performance? And heavier rollers are for top-end?
If I want advice on say a rattling trunk or valve adjustment, would it be best to start another thread topic?
I'll post some pictures of the bike in a few....
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Post by mainepeace on Mar 6, 2012 21:26:12 GMT -5
Top end will be the same unless you go with 3gram rollers. RPM's are higher for lighter rollers, which equates to better hill climbing ability. If you don't have hills, then the RPM's are higher than you need and they end up wasting acceleration. Think in terms of the RPM range for normal operation. A 1g roller difference is about 500 RPM's up or down. 1g sliders is roughly 250-300 RPM's.
Greg
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Post by mopojo on Mar 6, 2012 23:07:35 GMT -5
I haven't yet checked the weight of the rollers (no scale); but the rev is starting to feel right (hills abound around here [not excessive]). I have checked the valve clearance, but was uncertain of optimum specs; any advice? YouTube says .04 ~.05 mm.... I'll check again. Is it normal to hear a little rattlin' (although slight, sounds like valves to me) after running for an hour at about 25-30 mph at break-in stage? @ Greg: Do yo sell engine/drive parts for the gy6 50cc? Edit: What is that washer thingamajig in my fuel filter?
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Post by mainepeace on Mar 8, 2012 19:44:04 GMT -5
It should be .004 INCHES and .005 INCHES.
The rattling could be anything. It could be something loose or it could be detonation from being too lean. I guarantee you're too lean because that's how Peace Sports jets the carburetors.
There shouldn't be a washer thingie inside the fuel filter, unless Peace just started putting in a new part. You should replace the fuel filter anyway since the stock one is always junk.
Yes, we sell thousands of parts. It's the 139QMB.
Greg
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Post by mopojo on Mar 9, 2012 0:43:04 GMT -5
I found out the washer is a magnet (I suppose to catch metallic particles; isn't that what the filter is for ). Anyway, will change it. Thanks for the specs on valve clearance as well as a jump off point in anticipation of upgrading this scoot. I've been finding a lot of info just browsing this Forum. Lots of scoot based knowledge. I love it. I'll check the air/fuel mixture. Thanks Breezy
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Post by mopojo on Mar 17, 2012 0:35:31 GMT -5
We're happy that you're happy. 1) I have a few extra ones if they end up being non-responsive that I could send you. 2) You NEED to charge the battery up fully. It has to to with the chemicals. 3) Actually it sounds like you have light rollers in there. 7000 is about where you want to be at as the power curve peaks around 7500. Greg Charged the battery. Got the bolts and used a cut-out of that vinyl runner to dampen the torque applied to the trunk (thanks for the offer of the bolts, bro, but I'll be shopping soon ;D). Also used little strips of said runner to dampen the rattle of the trunk lid. And made some pretty decent vinyl washers to help with misc. connections. That runner has been the best three dollars I've ever spent - and I have only used an eighth of it. Now at 650 miles or so, the bike will hit a little over 8,000 RPMs and have great pick-up (not WOT but not soft take-off). It runs pretty well until I hit an incline and then if the revs go below 7,000, the bike loses speed and power that is dependant on the lenght and grade of incline it is subject to give up and just stopping without cutting off (sometimes it can be the slightest grade). It didn't use to do this. The bike is otherwised tooned and runs great. Carb is spotless and gleaming inside and out. Fluids are optimal and not overfilled. Hoses have been chanded and are at shortest possible route. Ran the CVT and valve cover breather tubes up and to the rear (protected). Tight seals all around - intake and exhaust. Run 93 octane from dedicated busy pump and burning with an NGK gapped to specs. Valves have been checked/adjusted several times and I have a slight tick-tick-tickin' but noclackin' or rattlin' in that area. Tight engine; if I could only convert that tightness to the ass end. And keep it above 7,000 RPM. I have had it up to 9,000 RPM a couple of times and it sounded like the wind. I know it will do more but Peanut is my only ride. I have read that these engines (1P39QMB) can comfortably rev at 12,000 RPMs with proper tuning/porting/balancing and whatnot. I really don't think I can do a lot of harm to this engine at stock level (within reasonable bounds, Dawgs).... EDIT: I should note that I only rerouted breater tubes after losing uphill performance and noticing a little oil in the breather tube an under carb diaphram. Also: I have e-mailed GES concerning the power loss and a small clatterin' goin' on in the engine or CVT (will post more as updated) as well as MSO paperwork. I just posted the mail Fri. morn so I'll wait a couple of days before I go afrettin'. Glad it wasn't critical....
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Post by mainepeace on Mar 17, 2012 1:07:36 GMT -5
No, they cannot rev more than 8.5k or so reliably. If you built it from the ground up with quality parts you can get it up to 10k or so. Stock it will tear itself apart really quickly.
It sounds like the rollers are wearing in a bit. Going up hill it was able to rev a bit more because they sort of "stuck" near the center a bit. Now that they are worn in they move a bit easier to they fly out, lowering the RPMs. My guess is you need 1g lighter rollers or sliders. Sliders will give you a bit more acceleration. Lighter ones will raise the cruising RPM's a bit more. 500 RPM per gram for rollers, and about 300 RPM per gram for sliders. So if you want the RPMs to raise 1k when going uphill, about a 2g lighter roller is what you want. Of course it does affect the flats as well, revving higher than it did before.
Greg
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Post by mopojo on Mar 17, 2012 1:23:08 GMT -5
Sounds about right, Greg. I have searched high and lo and it seems to be confirmed that the only areas I need to tackle (at the time of this posting) are the roller/slider(s) and air/fuel mixture. As an aside: That Google Custom Search feature is a trove of info. I'm in it several times a day. EDIT: If I have any more queries on this bike, I'll start a new thread. Thanks for bein' patient while I learn, Dawgs. Bones all 'round.
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