My $300 250cc Jonway YY250T

[jahunt]

Hello,

This will be both my own re-introduction, my scooters introduction, and also the process of refurbishing process of my 2007 Jonway 250.

First off, my name is Jack, from Pittsburgh, PA. This isn't my 1st scooter - I previously had a 2007 Roketa Bali 150. I had to sell it about a year after buying it new due to lack of storage in my past situation. Luckily, I am a new home owner and have the perfect place to work on my new scoot! I'm 31 and do marketing for a very large Pittsburgh Based clothing retailer - found in every local mall. I have built race motor for Japanese cars and have a pretty good understanding of engine theory & electronics.

Now enough about me, let me introduce you to the scoot. I "paid" $300 for it. It has about 5,000 miles on it and in very nice cosmetic shape. The reason "$300" is in quotes is because I essentially got it for free. While browsing Craigslist, I came across this in Greensboro NC (about 8 hours away). I decided with the help of my awesome wife watching my daughter for a day that I was going to roadtrip it 8 hours each way in my F150. The guy wanted to trade me for an old computer I had laying around (essentailly free, but had to buy a LCD monitor from craigslist for him). So with the fuel, food, and computer monitor, I have $300 into it. Sweet!

So, the deal was to sweet to pass up. I told the guy that if it wasn't wrecked and the title was there, I would take it. Of course the scooter didn't run, and was labeled on craigslist as "needs engine rebuilt" , scaring away any of my competitive deal hunters!

So... this is where I begin. The "story" is that he bought it for $600 and needed a starter. He put a starter in and it ran, but really ruff. He "rebuilt" the carb, and then it wouldn't run at all. He "tried" to do a compression test, but couldn't get the harbor freight gauge to read anything but '0'PSI. He was fed up at this point.

So with my previous auto & scooter background I know it is nearly impossible for a motor to have 0PSI on a compression test; unless, the piston has a hole or SEVERE damage, which you would hear during the motor turning over. This leads me to believe I need to run this test again just to get it out of the way.

So... this is where I need you lovely folks to help out. A hack job mechanic has tried to fix different things in a way that isn't thorough to say the least. He didn't have any of the rear plastics, airbox, seat, etc on the bike when I picked it up. Check out the pictures below to see!

Step 1: Piece all of the plastic back together just to make sure I have everything I need.

*Issue found: No rear view mirrors included.

Step 2: Look at hacked electrical (prior to looking at compression, fuel, and spark)
Take a look at the 1st picture. There is a "looped" harness with fusible links. The previous owner told me that all the lights stay on if this remains plugged in, even if the key is off.

This harness really looks like someone elses hack-job, prior to the prevous owner. Can anyone understand the intent? I haven't yet located a fusebox or main ] fuse (bracket style) that I have seen in other members pictures. I have found a inline "glass tube" style fuse as seen below within a white fuse holder.

If anyone can help identify the white connectore harness/fusible link cluster, I would greatly appreciate so I can jump into the nuts & bolts.


By the way: this is the 244cc CF MOTO engine for future reference.

Thanks all!

The Harness, a little blurry. It connect to another white harness. It conists of a bunch of electrical loops with a fusible link on each loop (what you see in my hand):


What appears to be the 2 battery connections:
1 Green (Ground)
2 Red (1 x red starter solenoid)(1 x red "accessory" wire with the inline glass fuse as mentioned above)


Does this ground setup look factory to you? It has both a engine and chassis ground which is good!


Notice anything immediate jumping out at you from this pic?


The "piece back together" pics... just to make sure most everything is there...










I look forward to meeting some of you!

Cheers,

Jack

[richardthescooter1]

What a mess, wires everywhere Hope it all works out, btw welcome to the forum Jack, Glad to meet you, my name is Richard. we are here to help whenever you need us Awesome looking scoot You lucky dawg...

[terrilee]

;D ;D
Hi jack
yeaaaaaaaaaa another scooterist from PGH !!!!!

Welcome to the BEST scoot forum on the www.

i am not a MECH
& i have a 150cc,
being that 250's have a radiator, etc etc
i'd hate to steer u into something wrong

the guys on here will help u
they like people who help themselves
and u sound like one of 'em

that tangle of wires....lmsao
i wouldnt go near it, w/o a multimeter
about 3 beers { & i dont drink}
and 15-20 one hitters.

id be glad to physically to look her over
but over the 'net.
NO FREAKING WAY


good luck,
please , like the old saying goes,
there is NO such thing as a dumb question.

Be patient, u know sometime , u have to check 1 million
things, to find out your problem was SO easy

if u need help , u can PM me
or just post

again HI & WELCOME

Attachments:

[justbuggin]

look under the tech side of this forum there should be a wiring diagram for you to study i would download a copy and get it printed out so i could have it beside me while working on the wiring as a ref.

[imnts2]

Hi Jack Welcome.
Looks like a mechanincal jig saw. I would like to see the engine including the intake system. I would consider contacting the MFG to get a complete new wireing harness.

Good luck
lefty2.

[timk225]

Those taillights remind me of a Toyota Supra.

I'll be picking up a 2007 Jonway 250cc next week, as soon as my tax refund check gets here.

I'm about a half hour northeast of Pittsburgh, maybe we'll see each other on the road!

[jahunt]

timk225, with the 250 power we can meet up even if a short highway trip!

I am ironing out the electrical, and think that the rectifier was fried. Just ordered a replacement.

Next step is yanking the carb. Fuel is getting to the carb, but not into the combustion chamber.

Does anyone have a picture of the cooling overflow tank on a 244cc version? This would be VERY helpful! :Fingerscrossed

[mrpolymers]

Zexaccord. I'll forgive you from being from Pittsburgh since I live in the Football Hall of Fame City of Canton, OH.. I was going to ask, where is the rectifier?? Whoever owned the scoot, did a real hack job of the wiring. I own a 2007 JCL 257cc scoot similar to yours.. Mine had issues when I first purchased it used from a Honda dealer here in Ohio. However, I paid substantially more than $300, but it was obviously in a lot better shape. I think you have a good winter project here.
I've found my JCL to be too underpowered for me personally. I will be selling it this Spring/Summer and hopefully will replace with a 650 Burgman Executive. That's the most popular scoot in my scooter club. Hard to keep up with the big boyz with the Chinese wonder machine.

Good Luck..

[jahunt]

Hi mrpolymers. I like your witty response, and it should be noted that they should move that Hall Of Fame here with 6 Super Bowls!

Actually, I'm working through the grmelins now and getting them ironed out 1 by 1 with lots of research. The fusible link harness actually isn't so bad, just ugly. It is a replacement for the fuse block that so many folks had issues with.

Last night I took the carb apart and found one of the jets to be completely clogged! I am making progress fast!

[jahunt]

Electrical issue was tracked down to a faulty Diode Regultor / Rectifier. Basically the headlights stayed on when the key isn't in the ignition. If you have this issue, the diode is at fault.

Got it back together and fired it up spewing coolant from the Exhaust...

So tonight was a good night. I have solved what I hope to be the last major issue prior to this thing being roadworthy. Unfortunatly, I was in a rush (wife was wanting to relax a bit tonight), but managed to snap a few shots during the head removal.

So to simplify things, you need to remove everything and get your scooter's components down to this level. This involves removing lots of nuts, bolts, and screws (bike plastics, seats, carburetor, engine electrical connections, and fluids). No special tools required. For those who don't understand the way that your motor, electrical, and vacuum lines work, be SURE to mark those items for faster reassembly. Anyone can do this if you mark where things go. Also, after 20 years of working on engines this is a huge tip, experienced or not - PUT BOLTS BACK IN THE HOLES IF YOU CAN, or clearly mark them on paper, cardboard, or with pictures.

Here is the starting point for purposes of replacing a headgasket:


OK - start by removing #1, the oil feed line for the head (chrome line). #1 is actually a banjo bolt. Retain the copper washers and place the bolt back and washers back in the head so you don't lose them. Next, remove #2 & #3. These are the exhaust bolts (12mm). You won't be able to remove the head with these attached. I took it one step further and removed the 2 x front 12mm bolts holding the muffler on so I didn't have to shimmy the head off as much.


Next, get the valve cover off. This will require removing 6 x 8mm bolts. I must say that once everything is removed, there aren't any tough bolts to get too. You will see #5 and # 6 are closer to the base of the valve cover than 1 - 4. Important: once loosened all the way, leave the bolts in the holes so you don't mistake the different lengths. Once these 6 bolts are loosened, the valve cover will come directly off. Hit it a few times with a rubber malat if the gasket is holding tight. DO NOT PRY with a screw driver.


So before proceeding, you should "try" and find TDC (Top-dead-center). There is a large silver flat head screw on the right side of the engine's crankcase cover. Remove this screw (it is basically a window to flag TDC). Take the black plastic CVT cover off of the left side of the engine (3 x phillips screws). Under this cover, there will be a 17mm nut. Turn this nut until you see a black indicator in the "window" on the other side of the engine. You may need 2 people to do this. While turning the engine over, I notice mutliple markings so I picked the most prominant (which turned out to be incorrect).


So for removing the head, There is 3 parts. 1.) Mark it 2.)Remove Cam 3.) Remove Head Bolts.
First, mark the dashed areas with nail polish. Be sure to hit that timing chain. Even if you aren't at TDC, you will be able to reassemble the same as you disassembled. Second, remove A & B; the cam retainer. Once you remove the retainer, push the timing chain tensioners outwards and remove the cam. Third, remove the 4 x 12mm head bolts.


Next, PULL THAT HEAD OFF! I didn't experience any resistance. It slide right off, but if you do... smack it with a rubber malat a few times. DO NOT PRY between surfaces as you will damage the machined surfaces (that's a bad thing).


After you have the head off, you can push the piston to the bottom of the cylinder for inspection of the cylinder walls. In my case, they are in 100% perfect condition. No scoring, scratches or abnormal wear. If you see any signs of wear, replace it, they are cheap! You will notice my cylinder looks sloppy in the picture. As soon as you complete your inspection, MAKE SURE you soak it down in oil. If you don't, you will come back to a rusty cylinder within 24 hours.

So, this is where I leave this post until parts come in. Below you will see some major headgasket leakage between the combustion chamber (center) and water jacket (smaller holes outline the cylinder). It even appears there could have been some minor leakage on the right side as well.


Here you will see the headgasket itself, really not in bad shape so I will need to make sure the head isn't warped.