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Post by earlwb on Aug 31, 2007 18:53:32 GMT -5
Tomorrow, barring unforseen circumstances, I plan on changing the engine oil and also putting on new tire valves as I noticed the stock OEM ones are starting to deteriorate with little cracks all over them. So I went over to our local Honda dealer and bought a pair of Honda tire valves. The dealer sold them to me for $4.95 each because he couldn't see selling them for what the parts computer said to charge me at $13.95 each (choke gag puke). You can feel the difference in the rubber handling them as compared to those really soft Chinese rubber things they call tire valves. I expect the Japanese ones to not disintegrate while you watch like those OEm Chinese ones do. I plan to use Gary's method as outlined here. scootdawg.proboards59.com/index.cgi?board=tipsandtricks&action=display&thread=1187649715A warning to the wise, put on good tire valves as soon as possible. If a tire valve lets go on you at 40mph plus, it is going to hurt you a lot. |
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Post by scootermikie on Aug 31, 2007 20:31:31 GMT -5
Earl, did yours look like this one? This is what came on our Milano 150cc's.  |
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Post by earlwb on Sept 1, 2007 6:46:53 GMT -5
Yeah that is the same one I got on my scooter wheels.
I opted to go for a couple of short straight tire valves as there looks to be plenty of room for them to work on my wheels.
I just asked for a couple of tire valves for a Honda Reflex.
There are two basic standrad valve sizes a 0.453" and a 0.656" tire valve. the size is the hole for which the tire valve is plugged into.
Our scooters use the 0.453" width tire valves. So some of the automotive ones will work too. You can run a straight valve but it needs to be short. the rear wheel inner hub is large than the front wheel inner hub. One could run a valve extension too.
If you use a straight valve, you may not be able to use some of the tire inflator heads out there. it depends.
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Post by earlwb on Sept 1, 2007 7:06:20 GMT -5
Well so far in my experiences on the cheap Chinese Scooters, here is my list of things to do to make one useable and reasonably reliable.
1.) Replace the fuel lines with good rubber fuel lines. there is a fuel line coming off the bottom of the carb to serve as a way to drain the carb float bowl. Replace it or watch it very closely. You will need a handfull of small hose clamps too.
2.) Maybe replace the vaccuum lines or get a few feet of good vaccuum line and check often for cracking and kinking so you are prepared to replace when one breaks.
3.) Go ahead and drain and replace the oil in the engine and the rear transmission drive unit.
4.) Replace the OEM spark plug with a better spark plug usually a NGK one will do.
5.) Replace the ignition coil unit. They start to deteriorate fairly fast.
6.) Replace the OEM CDI unit as they vary wildly in how they function from unit to unit.
7.) get a extra one or two of the rubber coated OEM intake manifolds or replace with a metal racing manifold if you can get it to fit OK.
8.) replace the OEM tire valves on the tubeless wheels/tires with better quality ones. having a valve deteriorate and come off while you are riding at speed is going to hurt a lot.
9.) Buy one or two brass 1/4" splicer fittings to serve as a temporary bypass for the vaccuum operated petock, should it go bad on you. Most work OK, but a few people have had problems with them.
10.) get a couple of spare light bulbs like for the headlights especially. When you install a headlight bulb, you need to clean the glass with acetone or denatured alcohol and carefully do not touch the glass with your fingers when putting them back in. I suggest cleaning the headlight bulbs before you ever start your scooter for the first time. As I found fingerprints on mine where some factory worker touched them with their fingers. The light bulbs will burn out fast if they have residual oils on them when they are fired up.
11.) Go ahead and get a extra voltage regulator. just in case.
12.) get some spare fuses for your scooter, mine used a 20 amp fuse and the OEM ones are pretty cheap, the end caps come off easily. Too easily.
13.) get a spare CVT drive belt, the OEM one will wear out fairly fast on you. I suggest a Kevlar one.
14.) Check all the nuts and bolts and if possible put a drop of Blue Locktite on them all. To check a nut or bolt, you loosen it and then tighten it back up. Everyday for a few weeks, go over your scooter and look for loose or missing nuts bolts or screws, You would be amazed at what goes poof when you don't expect it. ACE hardware has all the metric things in stock. They are pretty cheap, I'd get a few of each that looks like it fits your scooter. get a couple of the 6mm or 8mm standoff nuts (they look like a nut that is three times thicker than normal) for the front exhaust pipe flange where they use acorn nuts. Carry the spare nuts and bolts and screws along with you on your rides.
Use care when tightening things up, one can easily break off or strip the threads on things. So one has to be both gentle and firm.
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Post by scootermikie on Sept 1, 2007 9:51:28 GMT -5
Earl, I like your list of "Things To Do" to Chinese scooters. Your list pretty much covers trouble areas of these cheap little 2 wheelers  Btw, do you know of or have you heard of a valve stem blowing out of a tire? This is the first I've heard of problems with the valve stems. |
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Post by jusdoit on Sept 1, 2007 12:15:54 GMT -5
Hey Earl...I have followed your lead for over 3 months now for my Mag 150 since it is the same..."Under The Hood" as your Fiji. Took the baggage compartment out the first week to get familiar with things & diagram same. Worked good because I was constantly adjusting the idle screw...auto choke was very erratic. About a month ago, came up with a plan to adjust idle screw with baggage bucket bolted in place. I drilled a half inch hole thru the front wall of bucket so bottom side of hole is at floor level. A straight shot from hole to screw put hole about 1/4 inch to left of the right bolt holding the bucket down. I didn't have a phillips head screwdriver long enough to reach from inside the bucket....so, I made one with a 1/4 diameter aluminum tube by flatning one end until a ph bit wedged in then I super glued it and cut tube to 11". Used it alot & works great...you can see the screw between the bucket and the air filter box. To my surprise, the auto choke finally started working like it should about a week ago.
Also, when I changed the fuel lines recently, I used some round Foam Water Pipe insulation
in several places where I was tying it to the frame...works great. Foam for 3/4 inch water pipe
keep it coming.......Earl...........just "Bob" in NC
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Post by earlwb on Sept 1, 2007 12:16:18 GMT -5
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Post by earlwb on Sept 1, 2007 12:24:59 GMT -5
I forgot to say that my Fiji came predrilled with a 3/8" hole in just the right place for adjusting the idle screw with the seat tub still in place.  My scooter was a little erratic in idling too at first. But after a thousand miles or so, it smoothed out nicely. I guess the rings were slow seating in good. yeah,I forgot, but the fuel line from the vaccuum petock to the carb touches the frame in one place, so i zip tied a short length of split fuel tubing over it to protect it. |
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Post by gamedad on Sept 1, 2007 18:49:04 GMT -5
I have been reading this very informative and helpful post over and over.
Today, after more than a year of `planning`, I rode my new Magster MC-04 150 20 miles (indicated) home from the dealer.
My fist impressions are good, considering I have zero motorcycle experience.
I should have paid more attention to my mirror adjustment before setting out, because it turns out I can't get the left mirror to point low enough to be useful. If anyone has an easy fix for this, let me know. Nothing seems broken, I just can't get the mirror to point lower.
I do consider myself well-warned that I may experience `issues` with a Chinese-made scooter, but with the limitations of my budget, I had to make a judgment call.
I could have saved a couple hundred bucks by ordering online, but it is important to me that I can go to a real-live person if I have problems or questions.
I am lucky to have a better than average mechanical ability, so I feel like I should be able to handle most `issues`.
Well, looks like I have some pre-emptive parts replacement to do this weekend, so I'll check back, later.
Thanks for helping me gain the confidence to join the ranks!!
Gamedad
Noobest of the Noobs
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Post by earlwb on Sept 1, 2007 21:22:05 GMT -5
Thanks and you all are welcome too. gamedad, actually the mirrors are fine if you are a shorter person. You'll have to learn how to slouch more or slide back farther on the saddle some. I had that same feeling at first too, but I figured out that having the mirrors angled farther forward more helped. Either that or I have been slouching down more.  |
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Post by earlwb on Sept 1, 2007 21:28:13 GMT -5
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Post by gamedad on Sept 1, 2007 22:25:07 GMT -5
Perhaps I fail to properly describe the problem? The left mirror, on closer inspection, seems to be mounted with a little more forward 'slant`, than the right. As a result, at best, I have a fine view well above my left shoulder to the sky. Tomorrow I will try loosening the mirror, and perhaps use a shim to achieve a better view. Either that, or learn to ride standing up, lol! Thanks again for so much help! Gamedad Edit: added 'standing up', btw, I'm 5' 11", 200 lbs, 'normal' proportions (Fruit of the Loom`s fit me off the rack)  |
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Post by earlwb on Sept 2, 2007 6:12:53 GMT -5
Look at the brake levers carefully. One of the brake lever clamp units may be twisted forward slightly on the handlebar. it isn't exactly easy to get to, as you have to pull off the plastic panel covering the handlebar to get to the clamps, so you can readjust the angle.
The mirrors screw into the base parts of the brake lever which clamp onto the handlebar.
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Post by scooterollie on Sept 2, 2007 7:15:37 GMT -5
Gamedad;
The mirror problem you describe is very common with that design scoot. Earlwb described what is probably the best solution. On two different scoots, I pulled the mirrors and on a grinder, ground an angle on the metal spacer. The spacer could be rotated to slightly modify the angle of the mirror. If you have lights in your mirrors, be very careful not to smash the wires under the spacer when reinstalling the mirrors.
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Post by gamedad on Sept 2, 2007 17:27:35 GMT -5
Yeah, Rolie, that sounds like where I'm headed.
Thanks!
Gamedad
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Post by earlwb on Sept 3, 2007 12:50:07 GMT -5
I decided on a plan for using a Aluminum racing manifold on my scooter. When I last tried to use the aluminum intake manifold, I found that the carb was moved back some and hits up against the metal frame cross member. So I was thinking about literally machining out a new aluminum intake manifold and copy the OEM rubber one as it is shorter than the racing manifold. The aluminum manifold is about 1/2" inch difference in length and about 3/8" higher than the rubber OEM manifold. But it still winds up with the carb up against the frame cross member. Anyway, I decided to try the spacer approach and add another spacer or two to raise the carb a little so it doesn't hit the frame. Of course that means I need to make a spacer, plus if you use spacers then the studs mounting the manifold to the engine would be too short. So I machined up a few spacers of different thicknesses to use and I machined down the mounting tabs on the manifold so the regular stud bolts with fit. So when the current rubber manifold starts to crack and deteriorate, I'll be all set to put on the aluminum manifold this time. Here is one of the spacers getting ready to havesome machining done to it. i27.photobucket.com/albums/c163/earlwb/scooter/Milling_spacer.jpgI used a rotary table for machining the big hole in the middle: i27.photobucket.com/albums/c163/earlwb/scooter/BigHole.jpgHere are the spacers and intake manifold after machining them: i27.photobucket.com/albums/c163/earlwb/scooter/manifold_and_spacers.jpg |
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Post by jusdoit on Sept 3, 2007 14:20:08 GMT -5
Hey Gamedad; You are the only other "Magster" I have found. I have Mag MD 150 T-6, picked up May 14th (2006). Our Mags are like the Fiji so Earl's post has great info in one place with great help from "Swampsniper". When you pull the front panel to stabilize the mirror situation, you will see that mirror has "three" wires plugged into 3...as Earl found out...one of those wires serves no purpose so unplug them...because when I checked mine, the "un-necessary" wire was "hot" to my touch...pulling current & dangerous. Do you know what "Importer" brought your Magster in  Strongly recommend doing the things Earl lays out here Welcome aboard..........just "Bob" in NC |
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Post by jusdoit on Sept 3, 2007 14:42:22 GMT -5
P.S. Gamedad....my Mag was manufactured in 2006...I got it May 14, 2007...got 700 miles and lovin it...quite "Spunky" after the break-in period.......just "Bob"
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Post by earlwb on Sept 5, 2007 11:25:25 GMT -5
Here is a good article on how to pull the centrifugal clutch unit off. I can see me needing to maybe fabricate some new tool ideas here as well. www.scootnfast.com/Tuning_mods/Clutch_Springs.htmThe clutch comes off as a unit behind the clutch bell. The torque spring is in the clutch unit. But when you loosen that nut remember that the spring is under a lot of pressure to hold the two pulley halves together. I would use a couple of bards with holes drilled in them and a couple of long bolts and nuts to hold it together as I took the large nut off. Then i could ease off the spring tension more gently without meeding two extra strong hands to hold it together for me. now getting those two nuts off is tricky, they are on really tight too. Now this does bring up a good thought, are there bearings inside the clutch unit to allow it to freewheel? Does it need relubing from time to time or something? swampsniper responded stating that there is a needle bearing set inside and it would be wise to give it a dab of grease from time to time. You don't want to overdo it though as the grease can get out and spray around getting on the clutch, belt and pulleys. ************************************ brycegtx came up with this response on removing and installing a clutch on the scooters. The Snowmobiles use a CVT like the scooters do too. If we read chapter 9 of the Tank manual I provided a link for, they clearly show the proper tool to be used to hold the flywheel. Seems to me, if we use the wrong tool, we will damage something. So use the correct tool or make one as Earlwb has. Here are only a few links to forum posts on the subject of impact wrenches on crankshafts. This post only go back to Jan 2007. There are many many more. www.dootalk.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=150652&hl=impact%20primary&st=0www.dootalk.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=147293&hl=impact%20wrench&st=15www.dootalk.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=147150&hl=impact+wrenchwww.dootalk.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=141761&hl=impact+wrenchwww.dootalk.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=135163&hl=impact+wrenchThis shows how to install a clutch kit. It does not use an impact. www.dootalk.com/reports.php?rptType=TECH&rptID=34Both my 1998 and 2005 Skidoo Shop manual states "Never use any type of impact wrench at drive pulley removal and installation." The sled motors described here are anywhere from 100 to 150 HP. So the parts are bigger and more massive than the scoot engines. It seems to me even more crucial to not use impacts on these little scoot engines. The cranks are so small, it is too easy to damage them. Remember, the crank pin is only pressed in. A high pounding force on one end of the crank reacted by the flywheel inertia on the other side could twist the crank slightly enough to destroy it. You comment about what your dealer only shows what that particular dealer did. The dealer should follow the shop manual. I don't have shop manuals for early years, but as far as I remember, there have always been clutch tools for all the manufacturers sleds. Bryce ************************************* Spark plugs:Well I thought I'd put down a list of spark plugs. It seems reasonable that these plugs would all work OK within their respective groupings. Using the 10mm thread diameter, 1/2" reach GY6 plugs... Some of these plugs are usied in small weed eaters and leaf blowers too. They also have small 4 cycle engines in weed eaters and such that use some of these plugs too. A NGK C7HS or C7HSA or CR7HS or CR7HSA cross references to a Champion Z9Y, 808, 889, RZ8 or a Autolite 4194. A AC-Delco S102 and S104F cross reference as well. A Bosch 7702, U26T1, U4A, UR3AS A Beru 10-FR-4Au cross references also The NGK CR7HIX Irriduim plug doesn't have equivalents in the other brands. But one of the other brands could be a copper core irridium based plug too. I didn't look too hard to see. |
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Post by tp555 on Sept 6, 2007 17:49:03 GMT -5
Excellent forum.I just ordered a fuji scooter from allnewsports tuesday.So I am doing my homework and find this forum.On the plus side I have a machine shop next to the house.This is what I do.Town is 6 miles away which is one reason for the scooter.The bonus is I bore out cylinders for harleys and atv's for the bike shop in town.If I ever have to bore out a cylinder for the scoot I could do it.Do they even make over size pistons for it? I can see I'll probably make a manifold for it and some other things. It has to get here first.The specs from allnewsports say walbro carb don't know who makes that.Well this is going to be fun.
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Post by scooterollie on Sept 6, 2007 19:25:53 GMT -5
tp555;
Welcome to the Dawg Pound! ("Well this is going to be fun.") You have the right attitude!
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Post by tp555 on Sept 6, 2007 20:17:30 GMT -5
Reading up on allnewsports I find that they don't exactly shine as good business people.So I will call them tomorrow and see If I can cancel. Then buy from a business with a good rep.
The fun part is easy.A long time ago I worked at a golf course as the mechanic .I worked on lawn mowers to tractors,2cycle and 4cycle engines.I got a moped and wanted to do some porting work (2cycle engine).So I ported a jacobsen lawn mower engine I was rebuilding to see what happens. The super never caught on.One lawn mower was reving alot higher then the rest. He never figured it out,but I tested out my theory and it worked.Worked for the moped too.regards.
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Post by earlwb on Sept 6, 2007 20:36:41 GMT -5
Well the good thing is the Roketa scooters are almost all drop shipped from the Roketa Warehouse in California, not from the dealer (unless it is a clearance thing or something).
I go on the premise, that after the sale, expect nothing from the dealer but an MSO certificate.
The carb is a Keihin CV carb, they work pretty good so you should not have any problems with the carb.
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Post by earlwb on Sept 6, 2007 20:37:01 GMT -5
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Post by barretdm on Sept 7, 2007 21:55:35 GMT -5
Earl,
I got a nail around 300 miles just like yours. I used a plug kit I had bought previously at walmart for my truck. I brought my scoot to the gas station, repaired it by the air dispenser then filled up with air. The plug kit I used was just like yours except black. Make sure to trim it down a bit so its flush with the tire.
Since the repair I have had 0 air leakage and I'm at 1600.
Although I still need to fix my broken variator and unclog my carb.
Wanna trade?
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Post by earlwb on Sept 7, 2007 22:09:44 GMT -5
No I think I'll keep mine, at least I know what to expect with it. Thanks for the info about how long the plug holds up for you. Anyway, in studying the flat repair techniques. The gooey rubber plug method works pretty good, but the coreing tool tends to damage the plies or cords where the hole is. So there is some risk of the tire failing because of that. Then the motorcycle or scooter tires are much more thin that a automobile or truck tire, so there is less tire thickness to hold the plug glued in well. So the plug could come loose on a rider on the road. Granted it isn't a great risk but it is there. So one should use the plug as a emergency method to temporarily fix the flat so they can get home or to a shop where the tire can be replaced. The inside patch method is better but it could still come loose on one too. In a vehicle with four tires having a flat usually results in some inconvenience. But on a scooter or motorcycle it usually results in the rider wrecking out. So I'll be replacing the tire with a new one out of my home spares stockpile tomorrow. This is another "do it yourself" thing for me. Once you learn how to replace a tubeless tire and you have fabricated your tools for it, it is no big deal. It takes longer to get the wheel off and on than to replace the tire. There is a lot of stuff you have to remove before you can pull off the wheel. But I will save the old tire for a while in case I actually have to use it for some reason unforseen. Like being broke or something. |
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Post by barretdm on Sept 7, 2007 23:00:30 GMT -5
Point well taken. I didn't bore out my tire too much before I placed the plug so it was extremely tight application. About your intake manifold. So I read in some of your previous posts that you tried to install an aluminum one and it didn't fit? Was that the one from Oregonvintage? if so I purchased that one: www.oregonvintage.com/Intake.jpgWill I have problems getting it to fit? -Dan |
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Post by earlwb on Sept 8, 2007 8:35:32 GMT -5
The racing manifold is a little longer and slightly taller too. It moves the carb back about 1/2" and up about the same. On my scooter there is a frame cross member (the engine bolts up and hinges off of it), that with the racing manifold installed, the carb bowl touches up against the frame. I was originally going to mill out a new aluminum manifold that copies the rubber OEM one, but I got the brilliant idea of making a spacer to move the manifold a little higher.
So then the carb would just clear the frame at that point. Anyway that is the plan. I made three different thickness spacers so I can experiment with it a little.
So when the current manifold starts to deteriorate on me, I'll try the aluminum manifold again.
Different scooters do different things in this area, so the manifold may work just fine for other people. A couple of guys used a hand grinder and cut out a notch to clear the carb too.
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Post by earlwb on Sept 8, 2007 13:25:33 GMT -5
OK the new tire has been put on in place of the old one. here is something about how I did it: First even though one can use some rather amazingly simple tools for replacing their tubeless tires. I opted to go for the Harbor Freight Portable Tire Changer Setup. www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=34542&CategoryName=&SubCategoryName=and you'll need the motocycle accessory too www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=42927&CategoryName=&SubCategoryName=This is pretty neat, as they have several extra holes, so it might go all the way down to a 10 inch wheel too. For the 13 inch wheels on my scooter, I needed to drill one hole for the rim retainer on one arm. I think the 13" wheels are sort on in between 14" and 12" for the alignment holes they have on the arms. The tire changer unit comes with a really long Tire Iron like tool that works really well. You use the flat tonge end for removeing tires and the hooked in for installing tires. You use the center shaft for a fulcrum when levering the tires on and off. If you opt for a more conventional method Harbor Freight has these 24" tire irons that are really nice to have around. www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=93230&CategoryName=&SubCategoryName=I got a couple of them too, but I didn't need to use them with the tire changer. here is a pic of my tire changer unit all setup. i27.photobucket.com/albums/c163/earlwb/scooter/TireRepairWorkStation.jpgMounting the tire changer to something works better. I would suggest getting a 1/2" sheel of plywood (4 feet by 8 feet) and having it cut in half and bolting the tire changer to the middle of both sheets stacked on top of each other. What you have to do depends on your scooter model but for my particular scooter... First you need to remove your rear wheel, so you need to remove the muffler, and exhaust pipe as they'll be in the way anyway. This is a good time to put on that cool oval exhaust gasket that www.oregonvintage.com sells. Then remove the rear shock as it will be in the way. Then remove the axle nut and the three bolts holding the side plate on. Now if there is air in the tire let it all out. Then remove the oil filler cap and carefully pull off the wheel, as you don't want to damage the oil filler tube. An inflated tire doesn't quite fit past the oil filler tube. After the rear wheel slides off the axle and is clear, then put the oil filler cap back in for now. A pic with the muffler off. i27.photobucket.com/albums/c163/earlwb/scooter/RemoveTheMuffler.jpgA pic showing the rear shock and side plate removed. i27.photobucket.com/albums/c163/earlwb/scooter/RearShock.jpgHere is a pic of when we are ready to pull off the rear wheel. i27.photobucket.com/albums/c163/earlwb/scooter/ReadyToRemoveWheel.jpgWatch out for the spacer here, it comes off easily enough. Don't forget to put it back on either. i27.photobucket.com/albums/c163/earlwb/scooter/RearWheelSpacer.jpgPulling the tire off the wheel i27.photobucket.com/albums/c163/earlwb/scooter/PullingTireBeadOffWheel.jpgNote that I cut out a couple of pieces of plastic from a liguid detergent container and used them to help minimize scratches or damage to the wheel as I pull it off the wheel. Installing the new tire on the wheel i27.photobucket.com/albums/c163/earlwb/scooter/InstallingNewTire.jpgAfter getting it back together OK and inflating it I check for leaks. i27.photobucket.com/albums/c163/earlwb/scooter/CheckingForLeaks.jpgI use liberal amounts of soapy water to help lube the tire and make it easier to go on. For those of you new to how one changes a tire, here is a great link to someone that explains the process in greater detail. www.clarity.net/~adam/tire-changing.htmland here is another article on how to do it as well. www.webbikeworld.com/Motorcycle-tires/change-balance-motorcycle-tires.htmNow you simply reverse the process to put the wheel back on the scooter. But you'll need to let most of the air out so you can get the wheel on and past the oil filler tube again. Remove the oil filler cap like before when you go and do it. Note there are splines on the axle, you'll need to align the wheel with the splines to get it on all the way. Don't forget the spacer too. A helpful hint before you start removing stuff put the scooter on the kickstand and loosen the axle nut. Then put it back on the center stand. Do the same thing when you do the final tightening of the axle nut when you are finished. |
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Post by jusdoit on Sept 8, 2007 14:07:15 GMT -5
Hey Earl...Question?...are there any adverse conditions to an engine is running "Rich". My Mag is very "spunky" & doesn't stall at 45-50. I am not concerned about MPG since I ride for pleasure. i have read that "lean" is not good. Switched to High Test gas (93) weeks ago.
Have a Good One........just Bob in NC
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