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Post by lshigham on Nov 12, 2010 12:05:58 GMT -5
It was not too rich with a 120, but too lean. Unplugging the enricher confirmed it, it runs fine at WOT now. I upjetted to a 125, but it's still flat and powerless at the top end. Looks like I will be needing the C16 after all.
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Post by lshigham on Nov 13, 2010 5:21:07 GMT -5
C16 fitted and looking good - the flat black muffler sleeve with S.Steel end caps looks sweet!
I'm going to make a port map of the seized Doppler cylinder and plug the measurements into a on-line calculate to get my durations. Do you know what I should be looking for for 12000RPM? I've looked, but can't find anything. I'm considering porting it for 14000, upgrading the crank and blowing it up in a week!
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Post by lshigham on Nov 13, 2010 13:14:56 GMT -5
Upjetted and went for a spin with the C16, wow, that was fun. I'd forgotten how fun being able to cruise at 60 with throttle to spare is!
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Post by lshigham on Nov 14, 2010 9:05:20 GMT -5
Done a port map and the maths. I currently have:
Transfer duration: 131 deg Exhaust: 191
According to a table I found, the transfer duration is suited to 11500 and the exhaust 10000. Rising the exhaust 1.1mm would raise that to the required 11500.
I'll post a pic of the port map in a moment.
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Post by lshigham on Nov 14, 2010 9:10:17 GMT -5
Port map. It's a bit wobbly, but it'll do. Attachments:
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 14, 2010 18:32:57 GMT -5
I looked up the durations you listed in A.G. Bell's book. His stats say 10,000 for exhaust and 10-11,000 for the transfers.
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Post by lshigham on Nov 15, 2010 3:40:15 GMT -5
I looked up the durations you listed in A.G. Bell's book. His stats say 10,000 for exhaust and 10-11,000 for the transfers. Thanks. I think it's the pipe that shifts the power band up so high, it's strange. I'm going to have a practice porting the seized cylinder, so I don't break anything.
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Post by lshigham on Nov 17, 2010 4:14:07 GMT -5
Still working on the porting. The next challenge I've given myself is to get the scoot working properly off the pipe, it's way rich even with the needle as lean as it'll go. I've ordered a 50 slide and W10 needle for the 21mm, costing £15.
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Post by lshigham on Nov 19, 2010 2:58:38 GMT -5
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 19, 2010 9:56:56 GMT -5
That should last a long time. I always use cast iron on my scoots since they are all street scoots. I used aluminum once and a part throttle lean condition holed the piston and killed the cylinder's coating with hardly any miles on it. They can run hard, but my wallet can't keep up.
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Post by lshigham on Nov 19, 2010 12:39:09 GMT -5
That should last a long time. I always use cast iron on my scoots since they are all street scoots. I used aluminum once and a part throttle lean condition holed the piston and killed the cylinder's coating with hardly any miles on it. They can run hard, but my wallet can't keep up.Same. It's recommended to replace the rings every 1500mi on them. I've also discovered another problem, ignition coil. It slowly decreases in output over 2-3 mi until it shuts off and won't spark at all. It'll start up after cooling for 10 mins, and then it repeats. Left me stranded this morning
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Post by lshigham on Nov 20, 2010 16:39:52 GMT -5
Got it up and running with a new CDI/Coil unit and stock cylinder. When I have some spare cash I'm going in for: www.pedparts.co.uk/stage6-streetrace-70cc-kit---piaggio-lc-3754-p.aspEDIT: Oh no I didn't, bloody thing has decided to start playing up again. It went back to the dealer, I need it for transport and don't have time to prat around with it.
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Post by lshigham on Nov 23, 2010 13:19:40 GMT -5
The dealer just called, questioning why the oil injection was removed. The compression is fine so is that really relevant?
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 24, 2010 8:43:19 GMT -5
With most of the kits you were using I always thought it was encouraged to remove oil injection. Again, I'm into the Minarelli engines, but with those anything above a sport kit just isn't safe with stock injection. With any engine, I feel like pre-mixing is the only way to know what you are putting into it for sure. Sure it woulda worked fine with your stock cylinder, but it should work just fine with premix too. If the rings and cylinder are in good shape, I don't know why removing the oil injection would be an issue.
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Post by lshigham on Nov 24, 2010 11:34:36 GMT -5
With most of the kits you were using I always thought it was encouraged to remove oil injection. Again, I'm into the Minarelli engines, but with those anything above a sport kit just isn't safe with stock injection. With any engine, I feel like pre-mixing is the only way to know what you are putting into it for sure. Sure it woulda worked fine with your stock cylinder, but it should work just fine with premix too. If the rings and cylinder are in good shape, I don't know why removing the oil injection would be an issue. Exactly what I thought, especially considering that the oil injection has already failed once. They thought that i'd siezed it, evidently they haven't even started it or ran a compression test. This could be interresting...
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Post by lshigham on Nov 28, 2010 9:03:07 GMT -5
Yes, very interesting. They did precisely nothing, denied that there are any problems whatsoever. I got 200 yds down the road before it started to play up I think I found the problem myself (good old multimeter . The green wire (carries the current for the ignition coil, has about 200v) is intermittently shorting to ground, which produces the same effect as activating the kill switch. I followed the wires back and found that the stator connection block has an appearance resembling something that a dog has chewed, as well as being caked in corrosion. I did try cleaning and straightening the connections, which produced some improvement. I've just cut the wires off both sides and crimped them together, still runs so I know that I got them round the right way. It's -7c here, so I am somewhat reluctant to go for a test ride
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 28, 2010 11:25:22 GMT -5
Hope the bill wasn't bad for what the shop did (or didn't). A lot of times you have a problem with something and take it to be repaired, it won't do it for 'em. Then they think there's no problem, a fluke, or just bad gas or soemthing like that. I've had that happen with a car. It took many appointments before it would finally act up for them so they could replace an ECM under warranty.
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Post by lshigham on Nov 28, 2010 11:43:36 GMT -5
Hope the bill wasn't bad for what the shop did (or didn't). A lot of times you have a problem with something and take it to be repaired, it won't do it for 'em. Then they think there's no problem, a fluke, or just bad gas or soemthing like that. I've had that happen with a car. It took many appointments before it would finally act up for them so they could replace an ECM under warranty. It was supposed to be a warranty repair, but they charged me £56 ($100) for their time . The problem was so obvious I couldn't even make it to the end of my drive (50 yards) without it dying. I've plucked up the courage to go for a ride, all seems to be working fine. Fingers crossed
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Post by lshigham on Nov 29, 2010 12:12:08 GMT -5
Nope still bloody playing up. The only other thing I can think of is the pet cock playing up, dumping fuel into the crank case.
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Post by lshigham on Nov 29, 2010 17:03:59 GMT -5
Well, it is indeed knackered. Looks like a new vacuum pump is in order.
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Post by lshigham on Nov 30, 2010 2:02:29 GMT -5
I expect this is making for really interesting reading --''It's fixed'' ''No it isn't'' ''Bloody thing''!
A few inches of snow fell last night, and it's -9c, so I wouldn't be using my scoot anyway. I'm going to call a friend who I think may have a combined pump/petcock unit lying around.
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 30, 2010 18:01:09 GMT -5
I hope you can get it all ironed out soon and actually get to ride more than fix.
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Post by robb on Nov 30, 2010 20:57:52 GMT -5
I have been following this thread and I've learned a bit about 2t's from it, for which I thank you. Components seem to be a large part of your problems, ie oil injector, ignition and petcock. It seems criminal to charge you for not fixing your scooter when it's under warantee. I wouldn't have expected it from a relatively new, expensive name brand scooter. Good luck getting it sorted and more riding and less wrenching. Robb
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Post by lshigham on Dec 1, 2010 10:33:01 GMT -5
Managed to get a pump for £17.50, should have it in the next few days. It was a pain to find, as most scoots with the tank above the carb just have a plain petcock. Mine, with the tank below, also includes a vacuum pump. I've chosen an aftermarket version instead of the stock plastic one, hopefully it'll last longer. It was £2 cheaper, too!
Thanks Brent, it's a pain especially when it's my only form of transport, living out in the sticks.
Robb: I don't think it's solely the fault of the manufacturer, but rather the dealer. A two year warranty is worthless without appropriate dealer support. When the scoot works it's a dream to ride and seriously goes, even stock. It's also got the best brakes I've used.
I've a few mods planned for when it's up and running again, hopefully I'll be able to get the jetting dialled in properly, now I've got a leaner needle. The stock one is ridiculously rich. I was thinking:
-Stage 6 Sport Pro -Malossi air filter for the stock box, it's open instead of closed cell foam, much less restrictive -A professional dyno-jetting (if I have the money)
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Post by lshigham on Dec 2, 2010 14:07:22 GMT -5
Vacuum pump received ;D Attachments:
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Post by lshigham on Dec 2, 2010 17:07:59 GMT -5
And now it's installed too. A bit tricky, as it goes in between the belly pan and fuel tank. It seems to be functioning correctly, unlike it's predecessor.
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 4, 2010 5:25:37 GMT -5
Never used one myself, but those are supposed to be good, reliable, fuel pumps.
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Post by lshigham on Dec 4, 2010 6:28:51 GMT -5
Never used one myself, but those are supposed to be good, reliable, fuel pumps. I found some info about people swapping electric Kawasaki pumps for this one, for reliability reasons. It's Saturday morning and I'm considering going for a ride, however it is 10f and icy. Last winter I went for a ride in the snow/ice and found myself travelling down the road on my face. Thank God for full face helmets and lots of gear
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 4, 2010 8:24:59 GMT -5
I don't even wanna drive on ice in a car. Puts you into situations you just can't control. Worse on a scoot of course. Then if you slide and go down on ice, you gotta hope the car behind you can stop without running you over. No thanks.
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Post by lshigham on Dec 4, 2010 12:06:21 GMT -5
A combination of good and bad news: Good news: -I inspected the 70cc cylinder and found that it hadn't seized, the head gasket had gone -I took the opportunity to clean up the cylinder and port and polish the exhaust port -The Doppler S7R is in fact a re badged ATHENA HPR/Stage 6 Racing -It's rained, melting the ice The bad news: -It's still playing up I got it up onto the centre stand and replicated the fault, it appears that somehow too much fuel is sporadically being supplied. Initially I blamed it on the vacuum pump, but I later discovered that it had totally failed and fuel was being gravity fed into the carb. I suppose this leaves the carb, which I did clean when the problem first occurred. I'll try the 21mm Delly in the morning, and see how it goes.
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