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Post by sweden on Aug 11, 2010 0:48:44 GMT -5
Answer tomorrow if I can't fix it!!!!! Ok, last night I installed the air filter in my scoot which had been missing and installed a air intake tube below where the filter sits, I also cleaned and checked the spark plug, checked the batter terminals, which low and behold were not attached by nuts, just pressed on with the protective sheath, I attached these with proper nuts and bolts, put it all in and took it for a ride to warm it up so I could adjust the A/F mix which I did....not sure how accurate it was as it was still bogging, could be the valves I need to adjust, anyway, when I came to go to work this morning, the scoot was dead, it wouldn't fire up, there were no lights, nothing! Could this be something to do with why the battery wasn't connected before? It must have been getting power from the battery as I could use the electric start before. Anyway fine people, any advice would be great as I am getting mildly irritated by this scoot....as you may be able to tell!!!! Thank you in advance....again! By the way, I was only joking about melting it!!! ;D
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Post by sweden on Aug 11, 2010 7:29:27 GMT -5
I have a 2009 model of one of these btw. if that helps with identifying what the common problems are and where I may need to look.
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Post by rhodizzle on Aug 11, 2010 7:30:20 GMT -5
Do you know if it has an alarm? I've heard of people having issues with the alarm draining the battery overnight. Usually they just pull the circuit breaker for the alarm and that cures the issue.
Other than that I would say you'd have to go through the electrical system and try to find any shorts that could be draining the battery...
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Post by rapidjim on Aug 11, 2010 8:07:45 GMT -5
Alarms cause battery issues! In most cases you can just remove the fuse, which is in the alarm wiring, if no fuse you can cut the power wire. There is also a post somewhere, can't locate it now, that talks about completely removing the alarm, some alarms you can just pull out and others require a jumper.
Jim/Owner Rapid Repair
PS about 110 llbs.
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Post by sweden on Aug 11, 2010 8:36:17 GMT -5
Even if the battery was drained though, I should still be able to kick start the scoot right? But, I can't!!!! What else should I check?
110lbs you say....hmm, big paperweight!!!!
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Post by rapidjim on Aug 11, 2010 9:05:24 GMT -5
Some scooters are hard to start with the kick start. You need to determine if it is a fuel issue or a spark issue. Check to see if you have spark, since you are kicking it you will need help. You can check if it is fuel related by using a small "wiff" of carb cleaner or starting fluid directly into the throat of the carb.
Jim
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Post by sweden on Aug 11, 2010 9:12:39 GMT -5
Cheers Jim. I have been starting it with the kick start since I have had it die to the dodgy electric start and it hasn't been a problem......I guess it could be down to the AF adjustment when cold maybe? When you say the throat of the carb, do you mean the bit under the round plastic cap held on with two screws?
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Post by rapidjim on Aug 11, 2010 9:22:35 GMT -5
No that is the vacuum slide, where the air tube connects for the air filter box.
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Post by sweden on Aug 11, 2010 9:38:27 GMT -5
Thanks again Jim, I guess I was just getting carried away with throwing fuel about there....he he he. I will report back tomorrow, hopefully with some good news.
I saw someone wrote here somwhere, "don't give up, take your time" I will try to practice that tonight and see where I get to.
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Post by sweden on Aug 11, 2010 14:11:37 GMT -5
Ok, I took the battery out and checked the terminals and ll seemed fine, nothing works though, horn, lights nothing? I took the plug out and got a spark ok, it looked weak but then it was day light and I did it alone, anyway, I put it back in and it fired, but didn't really stay running for more than a second or two. I noticed that the rubber connection from the carb to the head was split and I could see a puff of smoke coming from that when I kicked it over.....could this be why it isn't starting, too much air? I am going to order a new one tomorrow. Is there anything else I should look for whilst I am waiting for the part to arrive....can take 2 days here in Sweden. Anyone have any ideas why the battery is flat? It seemed to be fine until I put proper connecters on the terminal, ie. screwed the connectors to it rather than them just laying there with the pressure of the sheath! It feels like I am rebuilding this whole thing!
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Post by rapidjim on Aug 12, 2010 8:13:11 GMT -5
Make sure the battery has a full charge. Also check the fuse at the battery.
Jim
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Post by sweden on Aug 12, 2010 9:08:12 GMT -5
Hi Jim,
I checked the fuse lats night and it looked fine, I am not sure if I know where my battery charger is as it has been packed up since I moved to Sweden 5 years ago....I will try to find it....is there any other way to check the battery charge?
I ordered the carburettor holder assembly today, I am hoping that will solve the starting issue and maybe explain the bogging I have been getting (although I shall adjust the valves too anyway). The split was about 5 cms long.
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Post by sweden on Aug 12, 2010 9:08:40 GMT -5
Oh and Jim, thanks for your responses and patients, it really is appreciated.
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Post by gmoney on Aug 12, 2010 10:42:05 GMT -5
Sweden, based on my reading your post it appears since none of your lights, horn, or starter work you still have and electrical problem. Since most Chinese scooters use very cheap fuses, (glass with small wire inside), they can appear fine in appearance but if you check them with a multi-meter they will be open. I strongly suggest you replace the fuse holder with and automotive type blade fuse rated at whatever rating your current fuse is. The fuse is generally located on or near the positive battery lead near the battery. There may be one other fuse up front near the key switch. If once you turn the key to on and you still have no horn or starter power you probably have a wiring issue in the harness. These harnesses are cheaply made and the bullet connectors can easily get pulled apart or the wire pinched causing the problems your encountering. The battery can be tested using a 12 volt bulb if you don't have a meter, just hold one end on the positive post of the battery and a wire over to ground to the ground on the bulb. If the light is bright you know at least you have some voltage, if it's dim or doesn't light you have a bad battery/dead battery. You can try to charge the battery with a battery charger but be sure you use the lowest setting, ie, 2-amps or less. Good luck and hope you get it running soon!
Gary
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Post by sweden on Aug 13, 2010 4:15:10 GMT -5
Cheers Gary. The fuse was a blade one, I assume that is like a flat metal strip in the glass tube? I will swap it out and see what happens, I always dread electrical issues, but I have a mate who is an electrical engineer with gizmos galore, so I can call on him and I am sure he will help. The weather has been really wet here and I am wondering if the water has found it's way in to where it shouldn't be? ? Hope the sun comes out again soon! I need to wait for my carb assembly holder to arrive and then I will make a start on the electrics. Will the lights work with the motor running, even if the battery is knackered? Providing I don't have another electrical issue of course?
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Post by gmoney on Aug 13, 2010 10:06:07 GMT -5
Some models work with just the key turned on, like the one I have. Some use AC to power the headlight and won't turn on till you start the engine. Since I know nothing about your scooter or how it's wired I can't say for sure which type you have. A good clue though is that it will turn the starter motor with brake handle pressed, key on and no other interlock safety features enabled. I replaced the fuse system on mine during the initial PDI, it used a crappy glass fuse that was very cheaply installed. I cut out that section of wiring and installed the blade type automotive fuse and soldered the connections and then used heat shrink tubing over the bare wires. I also carry a pack of 15 amp spare fuses under my seat incase it every blows.
Gary
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Post by mainepeace on Aug 13, 2010 14:56:41 GMT -5
The fuse was a blade one, I assume that is like a flat metal strip in the glass tube? No, a bladed fuse is flat and squarish, with the two terminals on one edge and the "window" on the other edge with the thin metal fuse folded into a zig zag. Greg
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Post by sweden on Aug 15, 2010 3:16:19 GMT -5
Hi guys, well, I fitted the carburetor assembly today and the bike fired up fine, still not running well so I am going to attempt the valve adjustment this afternoon after I have taken my little girl for a sphere ball walk on the river Hopefully then things will be fine, if not I will be back to ask for some more advice, is the adjustment 0.4 on the inlet and 0.5 on the outlet? As for the battery, well, nothing works on the ignition but everything works fine with the engine running......so do I really need to do anything with the battery, I mean, I don't need to indicate anywhere when it isn't running? ?? I am happy I have it running but I really hope I can get it running well now and I am hoping it is the valves as I can't seem to make it any better with the AF adjustment.....could the jets all be wrong in the carb?
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Post by scootercapecod on Aug 15, 2010 6:18:52 GMT -5
Having that crack in your carb assembly means you may want to do another A/F mixture adjustment, try tuning first to see if you really do need to do the valve work.
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Post by sweden on Aug 15, 2010 8:29:38 GMT -5
OK, I have adjusted the valves (hooray for me, no longer the valve neophyte!) It wasn't too bad thanks to the video and tutorial pics on here, thanks for that. I took it for a ride to get it warmed up and it is still bogging at full throttle and lazy up hills, not very big hills either, I have tried the AF adjustment (again) and it is still doing the same. I am opening the air screw up 2 and a half turns and then fiddling with it by 1/4 of a turn both ways and it still isn't improving. I feel I only have 2 things left to try now, a new spark plug or take the carb apart and see if it has been upjetted or something, is there anything else I can try.......I am feeling pretty handy after doing the valves , I am not feeling very successful though! Chucking down with rain now so I guess I won't be doing more today. Just for a recap on what I have done so far: Installed an air filter that was originally missing. Installed an air inlet pipe on the bottom of the crank cover that was missing. Adjusted the valves. Played around numerous times with the AF on the carb. Doesn't sound like much but I seem to have spent several hours in total on it.
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Post by babecycle on Aug 15, 2010 9:34:09 GMT -5
with your air filter missing you may have gotten dirt dust into your carb. I recomend that you pull your carb and do a full carb cleaning.
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Post by sweden on Aug 15, 2010 10:00:20 GMT -5
Yeah, I was thinking that was the next place. What size jets should I have in the carb as standard? What is the best way to clean the carb?
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Post by sweden on Aug 16, 2010 0:31:47 GMT -5
Just a quick one, when I was riding to work this morning (bogging still in place) I hit a speed bump and the bogging came straight on, could I have a bad charge from a loose lead or something stopping the plug from working at best?
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Post by scootercapecod on Aug 16, 2010 6:39:03 GMT -5
It would seem more like you got dirt in your carb and jarred it loose when you hit the speed bump. Take a look at Big Guy's Carb cleaning 101 video on here and that will help you, as I said before, upjetting is always a good thing. I recommend a #90 but experiment somewhere around that. If you DID get a substantial amount of dirt in your carb, you may want to take off the head and see the condition of the piston, you could have a gunky dirt buildup on the top of it or worse yet, damage. Be sure to check your timing markings before you remove the cam and make sure the engine is at TDC when you do.
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Post by sweden on Aug 16, 2010 7:09:47 GMT -5
Piston damage!! I hope not but I guess it is possible, I will get the carb off and give it a good clean out and see what happens before venturing into the piston area....hopefully I will solve my problems there!!! Thank you.
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Post by sweden on Aug 17, 2010 4:32:25 GMT -5
OK, when I got home last night, it sounded like my valve had come lose, it wasn't running so great so I guess I didn't tighten them enough, I thought I had, so tonight I am going back in, what do I have to do to check the piston surface whilst I am on there, pictures would be good if anyone knows the loacation of some, gonna do that carb too as it is looking like we may have a dry day in sweden, hopefully that wont be the only miracle today!!!
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Post by sweden on Aug 17, 2010 4:58:52 GMT -5
Me and my big mouth....just started raining!!!!
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