ICE BEAR PST150-11 Upgrades/Modifications

[difuxionx]

Hello

I started this topic to talk about:
Upgrades/Modifications, Maintenance and Troubleshooting for the ICE BEAR PST150-xx

There is not much information about these TRIKES around but little by little they are getting more "fame"

I have a few videos on Youtube about my TRIKE and I will add more soon, I will include a few here but you can view all my Youtube videos at www.youtube.com/difuxion

Here is my First video on the ICE BEAR PST150-11:


I recently ordered a few "performance" parts from HOCA (Taiwan performance parts) for GY6 Based Scooters

Here is a list of parts that will be Upgraded/Modified:

Fuel/Air & Intake:
1. Custom Intake Tube with vac./vent 1-5/8"x9"
2. K&N Type Air Filter 1-5/8"x3"
3. HOCA Aluminum Performance Air Intake

Carbulator:
1. HOCA 28mm Performance Carb. (Butterfly Type)

Ignition:
1. OML 40ohm 10mm Coil & Cable
2. TBP performance Spark Plug

Full Synth Scooter Oil & Gear Grease:
1. AMSOIL FULL SYNTH SCOOTER OIL 10W-40
2. AMSOIL FULL SYNTH GEAR GREASE

CVT Transmition:
1. HOCA 115mm Variator
2. HOCA 115mm Variator Plate
3. HOCA 12g Roller Weights
4. Belt, Gates Kevlar - 743x20x30 POWERLINK
5. HOCA Performance Clutch (w/ blue springs 1000rpm)
6. HOCA Performance Clutch BELL
7. Main Torque Spring - Blue 1000rpm

Engine KIT:
1. HOCA CYLINDER HEAD 58.5mm
2. HOCA CYLINDER KIT w/ Piston 58.5mm
3. HOCA A11 Camshaft
4. HOCA TOP GASKET SET 58.5mm/62mm

Exhaust:
1. YOSHIMURA TRC SS 150 Full Stainless Exhaust (Originally made for People 8 150)

FYI: It is to my understanding that HOCA Performance parts are made in TAIWAN and are very good quality parts. I have been told TAIWAN Scooters and Scooter parts are some of the best around. I don't know if they are the same or better than MRP or DR. Pulley but most local distributors have HOCA parts and to get MRP or DR. Pulley parts I would have to order parts online which sometimes pay expensive shipping to PR. That is why I decided to buy HOCA parts.


Originally the ICE BEAR PST150-11 top speed was 60mph maxed out at 65mph with x1 190pound rider and top speed 50mph with x2 190punds rider+pass... maxed out at 55mph

I will report back with performance information after the upgrades are completed and a video about the upgrades/modifications...

I have had a few issues with my PST150-11 which I can see have happened to others around the web, here is a list of things I have had to replace or fix along the way. At the moment my TRIKE has 1000+miles ODO

Broken or Damaged parts between 0 and 1000miles ODO include:
1.Broken air box - the air box screw got loose and the vibration caused the airbox to break
2.Broken Chain Guard - found a tutorial on adding an extra support to the guard which seems good and I will try it
3.Exhaust came apart you can open OEM exhaust and strip (gut) it and put it back together (better Flow)
4.SCREW COME OFF - It is absolutely necesary to tighten most bolts on these TRIKES and use "LOCKTIGHT" whenever you can. Also verify them every hundred miles or so to make sure.
5.Rear differential/Tires need to be tightened which pulls back the chain, I have had to do this 2 times and will locktight those screws now (second time)
6.Seat Lock does not open unless pulled forward, had to tighten the cable from the ingnition which is not that reliable. in any case pulling the seat forward then before you open with key seems to work best...
7.Reverse is the BIGGEST issue by itself. The revers cable came loose a lot. You can locktight it but it does not work too good. But I found that if you locktight it and then add a TIEWRAP at each side to try and cover the remaining thread the screw holds in a little better.
8.Front Suspention Covers fall off, use a TIEWRAP or remove and add 3M double sided tape they originally have a cheap little peace of two sided tape that does not last very long I already lost one side because of this...
9.Rear Fender RATTLE/Vibration - I have a video in my Youtube channel of how I fixed this issue with 3M two sided tape
10.CHEAP METAL SCREWS - Replace all the screw you can and if you can't then buy a rust proof paint and give them a touch up
11.CHEAP PAINT JOB - Metal parts are not painted very good specially the corners or welding points. I recomend a rust proof paint (black) and touch up wherever you can and if you ever take the plastic parts off to upgrade also paint all you can this will help the TRIKE last a bit longer against rusting
12.HORN BUTTON ISSUE - the Horn button seem stoped working a day or two then suddenly worked again if I get the issue agian I will take the grip apart and fix the contact of the button, I was told it was an easy task to complete

NOTE: I have not had problems with fuel lines or filter, Rear Brake Pads did get wasted pretty soon.
***Fuel Economy was supposed to be from 65 to 80 mpg, I fill the tank and use it for 4 to 5 days before I have to refuel and travel long trips***

[difuxionx]

Here are a few PIC's of my TRIKE:

[difuxionx]

Engine Oil and Gear oil information:

I have been told Engine Oil and Gear oil should be changed at 500miles for break-in then at 1000miles and after that every 2000miles

I don't know how true that is but the dealeship mechanic was the one who said it...

From what the instruction manuall says and what I have gathered online I will change both every 1000miles with Full Synth from AMSOIL

I have some videos about this I will upload soon



AMSOIL FULL SYNTH ENGINE OIL:


When I change engine oil I use the normal Process:
1.remove oil pan screw empty engine oil
2.use the "kick starter" with the kill button so it does not start just turns the engine
3.clean the filter or replace if necesary
4.put the filter and screw back together and put them back in place
5.fill with engine oil until the oil reaches the dipstick XXXX mark



AMSOIL FULL SYNTH GEAR OIL (Marine Grade):



When I change the gear lube I don't use the screw under the Sproket:
1. remove the gear oil empty screw, which is located under the clutch area
2.allow the grease to empty
3.put back the screw
4.reach the vent hose on top of the clutch area and pull it out
5.here there are 2 options:

a.use the exact amount of gear lube and throw it down the hose, then put the hose back in place
-or-
b.fill the hose with lube until it is full them point the hose down to empty excess oil, then put the hose back in place



I use option 5.B which is what the dealer mechanic told me to do and have not had an issue yet

Here is a pic that can help find the hose I am talking about:

[difuxionx]

GATES - KEVLAR POWERLINK BELT 743x20x30:


Main Torque Spring - Blue Spring (1000rpm):


Clutch small springs - Blue (1000rpm):


HOCA A11 Cameshaft:


TBP Spark Plug:


Engine Upgrade Parts:



HOCA Performance - CYLINDER HEAD KIT 58.5mm:




HOCA Performance - CYLINDER KIT w/ PISTON 58.5mm:

[als01seville]

Very nice looking ride. "YOU ORDERED A FEW" performance parts!!! Man you ordered everything they had The muffler, how long is it? The reason I ask is the Mufflers they come with are 13" in Length and there is not much room left back there before you hit the Rear Axle Tube. I measured it and a 14" long muffler will fit real nice.
Here is the muffler I had my Hot Rod Welder order for me and he is making me a 1" OD Header Pipe to go with the Muffler.
Alleyoop

forums.supertrapp.com/showthread.php?t=975

[difuxionx]

UPDATE---------------UPDATE---------------UPDATE---------------UPDATE---------------UPDATE

I am expecting to have everything setup and tuned by next month
After waranty expires - July/20/2010
let's see what happens I already have all the CVT, Engine parts and Carb. I am just waiting on the Exhaust to arrive.

I will start build up very soon


FUEL---------------FUEL---------------FUEL---------------FUEL---------------FUEL---------------FUEL

28mm Carbulator (OEM Type "butterfly")


This is the OEM Fuel Filter:


This is a Replacment I will use until I find a better option:



I am told there is a better fuel filter and I will check on this today... I will update soon with more information



EXHAUST---------------EXHAUST---------------EXHAUST---------------EXHAUST---------------EXHAUST

As mentioned the OEM Exhaust is not very good with time it come apart like a cheap toy check the next pic to have an idea:


Yoshimura Exhaust Seller has a lot of details on the Exhaust but not the size
I think we can make it fit, I have seen in on a scooter and it looks the part...

The Exhaust goes for about $300
It can be found on EBAY
I got mine from EBAY seller deals4twowheels which also has a website:
www.deals4twowheels.com

Here is some more information on the Exhaust:
www.yoshimura-rd.com/images/product/pdf/1590075.pdf

Yoshimura TRC SS Exhaust (Originally for Kymco Super8 150cc)






Here is Even more info on the Exhaust:

•Scoot in style with Yoshimura
•Exhaust system adds performance and style
•Feature stainless steel header, stainless steel mini-TRC muffler sleeve and stainless steel end cap


NOTE: Installation of a new exhaust system may change your motorcycles fuel-air mixture requirements. Please consult the exhaust manufacturer directly with questions regarding any modifications that need to be made during, or after, installing their product. If a jet kit or fuel processor is recommended, see the Intake/Fuel section

Exhaust discoloration (blueing) is caused by engine conditions such as cam timing, fuel-air mixture, operating temperature, etc. It is not the result of defective manufacturing; therefore it is not a covered by any warranty. See the Chems/Lubes section for products to help remove or prevent exhaust discoloration.

•Finish: Stainless Steel
•Style: Canister Muffler
•Type: 1-Into-1 System
•Units: Each





BRAKES---------------BRAKES---------------BRAKES---------------BRAKES---------------BRAKES

I am replacing the REAR BRAKE PADS already, I don't know why rear pads got wasted so fast, front pads are still new. I brake with both front and back at the same time so I would expect the rear pads to last a bit more, but anyways I am searching the web since they are some wierd pads which are hard to find. I wanted to change the CALIPER but it seems I can't do it so I will need the OEM or replacment pads...

I have some info on the pads that should help anyone who needs pads find them quickly (I did all the research already

Here is the information I have found out about the pads:

The rear pads are by the book number: FA395

The pads are from ATV and fit Artic CAT 250/300/400/500/650 and Polaris Hawkeye 300

ICEBEAR PST 150-xx Rear BRAKE PADS are COMPATIBLE WITH:



Description / Reviews:

FRONT FITMENT:
Polaris Hawkeye's
250cc-Big Boss, Trail Boss, Trail Blazer Xploror 2x4 & 4x4
300cc-Sportsmen Big Boss, Xpress 2x4 & 4x4
325cc-Magnum, Trail Boss, Xpedition 2x4 & 4x4
330cc-ATP, Magnum, Trail Boss, Trail Blazer 2x4 & 4x4
335cc-Sportsmen, Worker 2x4 & 4x4
350cc-350L, Sportsmen, Trail Boss 2x4 & 4x4
400cc-400L, Sport 400, Big Boss, Scrambler 2x4 & 4x4
425cc-Magnum, Xpedition 2x4 & 4x4
450cc-Sportsman 2x4 & 4x4
500cc-Sportsmen, Scrambler, ATP, Big Boss, Magnum, Outlaw, Predator 2X4 & 4X4
600cc-Sportsmen 2x4 & 4x4
700cc-Sportsmen, EFT, X2 2x4 & 4x4
800cc-Sportsmen, Touring 2x4 & 4x4


REAR FITMENT:
300cc- Sportsman 08-9
330cc-04-5 ATP 04-5
450cc-Outlaw MXR 450S 08
500cc-Outlaw 06, Predator 03-7, ATP 04-5
500cc-Sportsman 500 Touring, X2, EFI 08-9
525cc-Outlaw 525 IRS 08
700cc-Sportsman 700 X2 08
800cc- Ranger RZR Razor 08-+, Sportsman 800 X2, EFI, Touring



Here is the Juice


EBC is a mid class Brake Fluid there are cheaper and there are better but this works just fine. Any DOT4 Brake fluid should do the job just make sure the level is always correct... ;D

[difuxionx]

More videos from my Youtube Channel:

This video is a small review on the TRIKE and top speed stock:




This video is to fix the rear fender rattle:

[difuxionx]

Jun 14, 2010 19:12:58 GMT -5 als01seville said:

Very nice looking ride. "YOU ORDERED A FEW" performance parts!!! Man you ordered everything they had The muffler, how long is it? The reason I ask is the Mufflers they come with are 13" in Length and there is not much room left back there before you hit the Rear Axle Tube. I measured it and a 14" long muffler will fit real nice.
Here is the muffler I had my Hot Rod Welder order for me and he is making me a 1" OD Header Pipe to go with the Muffler.
Alleyoop

forums.supertrapp.com/showthread.php?t=975

Difuxionx Say's:
I checked the link you added. Looks nice, looks like it should fit...
I might have to custom fit mine but won't know until it arrives next week I think.

1" seems about right, I will have the tubes done also since the included one will definitly not work but I am used to custom builds so it's no BiGGie...

Have you changed CDI? Did it work out for you?

I have updated some info and will soon be adding more information

[als01seville]

Difuxionx,
Yes, I have a Performance ,CDI, COIL,Iridium Plug and 205x65x10 Kenda Load Star Trailer Tires, they are 3" taller than the OEM 225x40x10 tires it came with. I had to have the Fender Holders modifed so I could raise them so the taller tires would fit. I had them made adjustable, I still have 1" more I can raise them. I also have a Taller Windshield, installed a Beeper for the turn signals, installed a relay for the Turn Signal Beeper to shut off when I have the brakes on then start beeping after you release the brakes and installed a 4 way Emergency Flasher. Also installed a Manual Choke and took off the enricher, when its warm the enricher makes it run rich and I could smell the gas until it extended and shut off the extra fuel. Also have a Racing Prodigy Variator running with 12G Dr. Pulley Sliders.
Alleyoop

[difuxionx]

Jun 16, 2010 12:44:17 GMT -5 als01seville said:

Difuxionx,
Yes, I have a Performance ,CDI, COIL,Iridium Plug and 205x65x10 Kenda Load Star Trailer Tires, they are 3" taller than the OEM 225x40x10 tires it came with. I had to have the Fender Holders modifed so I could raise them so the taller tires would fit. I had them made adjustable, I still have 1" more I can raise them. I also have a Taller Windshield, installed a Beeper for the turn signals, installed a relay for the Turn Signal Beeper to shut off when I have the brakes on then start beeping after you release the brakes and installed a 4 way Emergency Flasher. Also installed a Manual Choke and took off the enricher, when its warm the enricher makes it run rich and I could smell the gas until it extended and shut off the extra fuel. Also have a Racing Prodigy Variator running with 12G Dr. Pulley Sliders.
Alleyoop

I tried out real quick a HOCA CDI but it felt better with the OEM CDI and I did not buy it, maybe I need to look into another manufacturer just in case. I did install a 2way alarm recently which has a nice range for when I take the TRIKE to the mall or a store and leave it alone I also got the XENA alarm brake lock and handle lock, I think if anyone want to steal my TRIKE at least make him work for it

I am also going wih the 115mm variator and 12g weights since the HOCA kit includes the 12g weights already, I am also going to use the "blue" spring and blue clutch springs to try and get a little more kick

[als01seville]

For a nice NO-GO, you can also put a cutoff switch connected to your Coil then hide the switch.
A good place to hide the switch if you have a Trunk is inside the Trunk. You store your Helment in the Trunk so when you go and put your Helemt away or get it out to put it on you could flip the Cutoff switch and if anybody was watching they wouldn't know that you had the cutoff there. They would think your just either putting your Helmet away or Getting it out:)

The heavier Blue Pulley Contra Spring and the Blue Clutch springs may effect your top end unless you have more power to pull the Clutch Pulley apart to allow the belt to go down.
Keep us informed on how your mods act on the Trike, what works and what doesn't.
Alleyoop

[mymomwantsatrike]

awesome thread, thank you very much

i will be helping to maintain a scooter just like this one soon and the more i know, the better. i viewed your vids on youtube weeks ago and have a few times since, trying to get a sense of the trike, its quality, and performance. i look forward to your postings in this thread, and more of your scooter vids when they go up

the trike to be purchased is red just like yours, no reverse. its encouraging to know your problems with the trike have been minor in its first thousand miles, and i will note its potential weaknesses to the builder when the PDI comes around after the trike is purchased

looking forward to viewing more of your posts and seeing more of your vids. the PST i will help maintain is a red one just like yours. and yours looks great by the way

[als01seville]

Difuxionx,
Saw your video on the speed, those speedos are usually off by about 10 real mph. So your probably doing near 55 mph, with the 115mm Variator. I have tried all kinds of weights and even all kinds of Variators as well. When I got the Trike and I got two of them One for me and one for my Brother-in Law both PST150H which weigh in at 353lbs. Out of the Crate they would only do 50 real mph at 8100-8200 rpms. Then I started with upgrades with the Racing Prodigy Variator and finally got it to run 55 real mph at 7200-7300rpms. Then with the 3" Taller tires it will run 61-63mph at 7200-7300rpms. Right now I am lossing around 600rpms and it will only run 57-58mph. I adjusted the valves and noticed that the timeing on the Flywheel at TDC is way advanced, the Marker on the case is about 1" away from the "T" mark on the Flywheel. I haven't checked the Tensioner yet but it may be the Cam Chain jumped some teeth. That may be why I am lossing the RPMS, right now I am trying to find out from the manufactuer what it should be timed at. I don't want to take the top off and set Cam timeing at TDC until I get some response from the manufacturer. I believe thats the problem due to when starting cold it barely wants to idle up even with the choke on.
Alleyoop

[difuxionx]

Remember to always "LUBE"
These Chains are not very good quality and even with lube get rusted...


I find the spray lube to work best for me since I don't want to spend a lot of time with this. I just spay and keep going.

I believe you should use this once a week and specially after long trips.

They where kind enough to give the instructions in the back...


just take a few seconds and spay the chain using as much as you need to get the chain look "lubed"

[difuxionx]

Jun 16, 2010 15:09:21 GMT -5 als01seville said:

For a nice NO-GO, you can also put a cutoff switch connected to your Coil then hide the switch.
A good place to hide the switch if you have a Trunk is inside the Trunk. You store your Helment in the Trunk so when you go and put your Helemt away or get it out to put it on you could flip the Cutoff switch and if anybody was watching they wouldn't know that you had the cutoff there. They would think your just either putting your Helmet away or Getting it out:)

The heavier Blue Pulley Contra Spring and the Blue Clutch springs may effect your top end unless you have more power to pull the Clutch Pulley apart to allow the belt to go down.
Keep us informed on how your mods act on the Trike, what works and what doesn't.
Alleyoop

I have a Large Full Face helmet so it does not fit the box but the idea still is nice, I had already considered it and have found some nice spots under the seat which would work. let's see what I do in the end

about the springs, I will be sure to let you know how they work

I took the bike apart today and painted everything I could reach with Rust-Oleum black paint. there where lot's of welding points that where already getting a bit of rust and now they have a nice thick coat of rust "proof" paint I want to update some pic's if I can before I put things back

[difuxionx]

Jun 16, 2010 19:35:55 GMT -5 mymomwantsatrike said:

awesome thread, thank you very much

i will be helping to maintain a scooter just like this one soon and the more i know, the better. i viewed your vids on youtube weeks ago and have a few times since, trying to get a sense of the trike, its quality, and performance. i look forward to your postings in this thread, and more of your scooter vids when they go up

the trike to be purchased is red just like yours, no reverse. its encouraging to know your problems with the trike have been minor in its first thousand miles, and i will note its potential weaknesses to the builder when the PDI comes around after the trike is purchased

looking forward to viewing more of your posts and seeing more of your vids. the PST i will help maintain is a red one just like yours. and yours looks great by the way

Thanks for watching my vids remember to rate

it is a good purchase as long as you keep on track with regular maintenance, as with any bike specially chinese which have bad reputation of having poor quality parts. But that is why thy are much cheaper than mayor brands right?? we get what we pay for ;D

be very carfull with dealer assembly they forgot to put the rear wheel lock in mine and I almost lost a wheel but thankfully it was aken care of with some help ;D

Good thing there are poeple reading these if not I would not be motivated to do all this
I have just put up a few updates and edited a few things in the post, hope you guys and gals find it usefull

[als01seville]

Yes the chains that come with it are good but not very good quality. I will be putting in a Brand New Complete Axle that they sent me last year. It is one that has been upgraded from early 2009 and that came on my trike. I have a new front sprocket and a high quality DID 0-Ring Chain that I will put on along with new Axle. It should be much quieter and smoother.
Here is the chain.
Alleyoop
www.solomotoparts.com/catalog/DID-428-Pro-V-Series-O-Ring-Chain-p-22112.html

[difuxionx]

Jun 16, 2010 22:45:30 GMT -5 als01seville said:

Difuxionx,
Saw your video on the speed, those speedos are usually off by about 10 real mph. So your probably doing near 55 mph, with the 115mm Variator. I have tried all kinds of weights and even all kinds of Variators as well. When I got the Trike and I got two of them One for me and one for my Brother-in Law both PST150H which weigh in at 353lbs. Out of the Crate they would only do 50 real mph at 8100-8200 rpms. Then I started with upgrades with the Racing Prodigy Variator and finally got it to run 55 real mph at 7200-7300rpms. Then with the 3" Taller tires it will run 61-63mph at 7200-7300rpms. Right now I am lossing around 600rpms and it will only run 57-58mph. I adjusted the valves and noticed that the timeing on the Flywheel at TDC is way advanced, the Marker on the case is about 1" away from the "T" mark on the Flywheel. I haven't checked the Tensioner yet but it may be the Cam Chain jumped some teeth. That may be why I am lossing the RPMS, right now I am trying to find out from the manufactuer what it should be timed at. I don't want to take the top off and set Cam timeing at TDC until I get some response from the manufacturer. I believe thats the problem due to when starting cold it barely wants to idle up even with the choke on.
Alleyoop

Yeah I know they are off a bit. as I mention in the video text mine seems to be off by 5 or 8 mph. so your estimate is about correct 63-8=55mph. I tested with a local spot they have a police radar with a display and with my GPS. I have not used the drive by my side method yet, maybe later on

someone told me that using bigger rear tires it would run faster but I was not sure if it would apply to the TRIKE please let me know your results
I was also told that using smaller sprokets but that is a road I do not want to go down (yet)

I am expecting the engine upgrade to work nicely I dont think it safe to have the TRIKE going at 80mph which I was told you can pass with a big bore kit and taking the engine to the machine shop, I just want some "bolt on" performance which is close to OEM and still reliable that is my goal as you can see from the parts I am going to use ;D

man that timeing issue sucks maybe they dont even know what happended, but I whish you best of luck in getting it fixed

remember to let me know about the tires I might get the tallest tires I can without modifying

[difuxionx]

Jun 16, 2010 19:35:55 GMT -5 mymomwantsatrike said:

awesome thread, thank you very much

i will be helping to maintain a scooter just like this one soon and the more i know, the better. i viewed your vids on youtube weeks ago and have a few times since, trying to get a sense of the trike, its quality, and performance. i look forward to your postings in this thread, and more of your scooter vids when they go up

the trike to be purchased is red just like yours, no reverse. its encouraging to know your problems with the trike have been minor in its first thousand miles, and i will note its potential weaknesses to the builder when the PDI comes around after the trike is purchased

looking forward to viewing more of your posts and seeing more of your vids. the PST i will help maintain is a red one just like yours. and yours looks great by the way

by the way "no revers" seems better since it can be a real pain sometimes, and I even read about one that broke down and damaged a lot of parts in the process...
The TRIKE can be moved easy anyways and since it does not "tip" from side to side even better

[difuxionx]

Jun 17, 2010 0:16:33 GMT -5 als01seville said:

Yes the chains that come with it are good but not very good quality. I will be putting in a Brand New Complete Axle that they sent me last year. It is one that has been upgraded from early 2009 and that came on my trike. I have a new front sprocket and a high quality DID 0-Ring Chain that I will put on along with new Axle. It should be much quieter and smoother.
Here is the chain.
Alleyoop
www.solomotoparts.com/catalog/DID-428-Pro-V-Series-O-Ring-Chain-p-22112.html

Nice!
thanks for the link
is that chain a direct replacment for OEM?
I would like to upgrade the chain, it rust's to much
if it is a direct replacment I will purchase one and throw the old one away

My trike has an issue that the chain get loose but I will lock tight the bolts and that should end the issue

[difuxionx]

Jun 17, 2010 0:16:33 GMT -5 als01seville said:

Yes the chains that come with it are good but not very good quality. I will be putting in a Brand New Complete Axle that they sent me last year. It is one that has been upgraded from early 2009 and that came on my trike. I have a new front sprocket and a high quality DID 0-Ring Chain that I will put on along with new Axle. It should be much quieter and smoother.
Here is the chain.
Alleyoop
www.solomotoparts.com/catalog/DID-428-Pro-V-Series-O-Ring-Chain-p-22112.html

by the way while you are at it check your rear brake pads, if you need replacement I found these nice ceramic pads
store.sixity.com/Items/004010928?&caSKU=004010928&caTitle=Sixity%20FA395%20ATV%20Brake%20Pads%20Ceramic%20Brakes%20OE%20MX%20Front
sadly they dont ship to PR so I had to go to another store and buy regular OEM pads

[difuxionx]

OK I took the TRIKE apart and started painting all welding points and wherever I could reach...

I used a small 8oz of RUST-OLEUM black paint:


I will update this post with the results tomorow when it dries
the frame looks very nice and I gave it a nice thick coat of paint

These chinese bikes use poor quality metal and it can rust real quick so doing this will help the life of the frame which in turn let's the TRIKE last a bit more than just leaving it to rust


Pictures of results will be added here:
!!!

Also removed all the black tape used to attach some part from manufacturer and replaced them with tight-wraps. Gave a touch up to parts of the fuel tank while I was there I will replace the fuel filter with a clear washable filter if I can find one since I am already there.

The hoses on these trikes seems to be of good quality so I will not replace those

if you do this "paint touch-up" you should cover the parts you dont want the paint to fall to or be very carefull

It is not hard to remove the plastics but keep in mind they have an order you will need to follow which is what takes more time than actually doing whatever you need to do. But once you do it the first time it's easy to do again

I will do a quick overview of what I remember of removing mine:

1. rear under the tail lights


2. fuel tank cover


3. pasanger seat



4. tail light and side panels



5. on the front seat there is a part to remove also


6. to remove the front seat you will need to remove the screws from the front side panels where the fuel cover was, no need to remove them just split them apart when you remove the seat.

I hope this gives you an idea and helps if you would ever want to remove these parts

NOTICE:
If you just want to get to the Engine it is easier to remove the rear AXEL and take it out, if you want to paint the frame you will need to take the plastics off

Here are some photos after paint job, it was dark so the pic's are not that good but still it looks nice and shiny

[als01seville]

Here is a calculator to check the difference on speed and rotation for your OEM tires and different size tires using the same rim or different size rims. Now the only thing you have to worry about is the Width of the Tire because there is only about 1/4-3/8 inch gap between the Fender Holders and the Tire itself on the inside. Me and another Triker that happens to have the same trike as yours googled for months for taller tires. And he FIRST tried 22x10x10 tires which are 4" taller than the OEM BUT they were to wide and he had to cut some off the Center Cover so they would not rub on the Fender Holders. I went with 205x65x10 and they fit really nice, except that when going at high speed they will get a little bigger and JUST rub a tiny bit on the actual fender underneath. But you can add about a 1/4-3/8 inch rubber filling on the Under the Top Clamp going over the Axle Tube and that will work. I took mine Fender holders to a welder and made them adjustable but I could have gotten away with just shimming it up 1/4-3/8 and would have been fine.

On the Calculator enter your current size example is for what my OEM tires where and the new ones :

225 205
40 65
10 10

50miles per hour

then scroll down and the results will be filled in.
Alleyoop

www.csgnetwork.com/tireinfo4calc.html

[als01seville]

About the DID O-Ring chain it is a little longer than the OEM so you will have to take some links off. Now the chain should have at least 1/2-3/4 inch play it should not be tight. To tighten, the Axle SHOULD MOVE FORWARD toward the front. Moving the Axle Out toward the Rear Loosens the chain. Thats why they have the 4 adjusters on each bracket. You want some adjustment left after your initial adjustment so leave some FORWARD axle travel so you will have some adjustment left to tighten it up later if need be.
Alleyoop

[difuxionx]

Jun 17, 2010 13:46:56 GMT -5 als01seville said:

Here is a calculator to check the difference on speed and rotation for your OEM tires and different size tires using the same rim or different size rims. Now the only thing you have to worry about is the Width of the Tire because there is only about 1/4-3/8 inch gap between the Fender Holders and the Tire itself on the inside. Me and another Triker that happens to have the same trike as yours googled for months for taller tires. And he FIRST tried 22x10x10 tires which are 4" taller than the OEM BUT they were to wide and he had to cut some off the Center Cover so they would not rub on the Fender Holders. I went with 205x65x10 and they fit really nice, except that when going at high speed they will get a little bigger and JUST rub a tiny bit on the actual fender underneath. But you can add about a 1/4-3/8 inch rubber filling on the Under the Top Clamp going over the Axle Tube and that will work. I took mine Fender holders to a welder and made them adjustable but I could have gotten away with just shimming it up 1/4-3/8 and would have been fine.

On the Calculator enter your current size example is for what my OEM tires where and the new ones :

225 205
40 65
10 10

50miles per hour

then scroll down and the results will be filled in.
Alleyoop

www.csgnetwork.com/tireinfo4calc.html

Thanks for the info, I will check it out and keep it at hand. Once the tires wear out I will go with bigger tires. At the moment I would buy the biggest that fit's without modding anything but when the times comes I might change my mind

Thanks for the link

[difuxionx]

Jun 17, 2010 21:40:55 GMT -5 als01seville said:

About the DID O-Ring chain it is a little longer than the OEM so you will have to take some links off. Now the chain should have at least 1/2-3/4 inch play it should not be tight. To tighten, the Axle SHOULD MOVE FORWARD toward the front. Moving the Axle Out toward the Rear Loosens the chain. Thats why they have the 4 adjusters on each bracket. You want some adjustment left after your initial adjustment so leave some FORWARD axle travel so you will have some adjustment left to tighten it up later if need be.
Alleyoop

the problem I have with mine is that the screws don't hold very good and I have to tighten them again and again, but this time I will use locktight on them see if they like that

I finished painting everything and got some pic's. not good quality since it was dark but at least I am done. I left the plastics off to replace the fuel filter today. I added some info on this above in FUEL---

[als01seville]

Are you talking about the 8 Bolts that actually hold the Axle to the Frame. Those you really have to Crank on the to make sure they are tight. Now the 4 Adjusters if they are coming loose on you use LOCK WASHERS so there is tension on the NUTs.
Alleyoop

[difuxionx]

Jun 18, 2010 13:19:46 GMT -5 als01seville said:

Are you talking about the 8 Bolts that actually hold the Axle to the Frame. Those you really have to Crank on the to make sure they are tight. Now the 4 Adjusters if they are coming loose on you use LOCK WASHERS so there is tension on the NUTs.
Alleyoop

I have a friend that told me to get longer screws and try to get a bolt and nut thing going on there which would hold up better...
I think locktight might fix the issue but nut'n'bolt would also work
I will check which is the best solution today, I also got the brake pads in the mail which I will also install today and I got confirmation the exhaust just shipped which means I will be getting it next week if all goes well

[Tom Adams]

Have you ever taken apert the rear end? I had a knock in mine and found it wasn't greased properly. I have taken it mostly apart, have the left side axle out but can't get the right side out. Any help on this would be great. Please e-mail me if you can at [e-mail]
Also have you taken the body parts off? I can't seem to figure them out and what screws to take out.
I have only had mine for about 3 weeks now, not sure if the rear end is covered under warranty, I want to take it apart anyway to see and just make sure.
Thanks for any info you can give me.

Tom Adams

[edfr]

Tom,
I don't think the guy is around anymore his last response was back in jun of 2010.
Lefty