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Post by bikerdude on Aug 27, 2009 13:24:25 GMT -5
Hi guys/gals, just signed up! I got a problem with my scoot it a primo gy6 150 terminator Has 6 miles on it was sitting for few years. wont rev past 4k rpm May have never run... I replaced fluids, fuel filter, cleaned carb, re jetted, then replaced carb, new battery. still no power. Idles great good up to maybe 3k then bogs down, barley can get the rear wheel spinning? Any suggestions??? This was supposed to be a fun project! Its not fun anymore..LOL Frank
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Post by skyetone on Aug 27, 2009 13:28:22 GMT -5
rear tire brake may be stuck on. there is a cable adjuster you can unscrew. Or try and turn tire by hand and see what kind of resistance you get.
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Post by bikerdude on Aug 27, 2009 17:44:43 GMT -5
When I give it full throttle the wheel spins, and then slowly slows down.. I read somthing about a compression test, not sure if I did it right.. I was getting about 35/40 on the guage? ? What should it be?? Only has 6 miles on the scoot a 2007 THX
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Post by "Big Guy" on Aug 27, 2009 20:16:33 GMT -5
At least 3x that! Try it again, 35-40 is bad, probably bad rings and would explain why it won't rev, but so would closed valves. But 35-40 is worrisome - under 100lbs a rebuild is in order, 125 - 140 is the norm... recheck it.
-Rich
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Post by bikerdude on Aug 28, 2009 8:50:09 GMT -5
Checking the valves right now.. How could it need rings and piston with 6 miles on it or is that normal defect found in these engines?
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Post by bikerdude on Aug 28, 2009 9:54:56 GMT -5
Just adjusted valves! That was pretty easy. Both were tight.. The feeler gauge was less than paper thin is that right?? .05mm Now I have close to 150 on the compression gauge and it holds steady! Cleaned plug/replaced plug still wont rev past 4k WOT. When I was in the timing area I see there is no advance mech. How do these things know when to advance timing? Any other suggestions please
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Post by harrywr2 on Aug 28, 2009 10:41:53 GMT -5
.05 mm/.002 inch would be really tight.
Most folks set intake between .003 and .004 inches and exhaust between .004 and .005 inches.
The advance is controlled by the CDI.
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Post by cruiser66 on Aug 28, 2009 10:47:56 GMT -5
You took the words out my mouth, harrywr2. ;D
66
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Post by boogernose on Aug 28, 2009 11:24:48 GMT -5
bikerdude:remove the air cleaner hose from the back of the carb and try. for some reason or another some these scoots dont like them if thats the case put a uni sock on it and eliminate the air box altogether
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Post by bikerdude on Aug 28, 2009 15:06:17 GMT -5
Tried that, also just removed exhaust! No improvement, will check on the valves again. My feeler guage at .05 mm is less than paper thin. How could it be .005mm? ? The guage wont go that thin???
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Post by bikerdude on Aug 28, 2009 15:17:39 GMT -5
Step 6 on the link from this site says: 6. Loosen the 9mm lock nut on the adjuster and using a gauge placed in the gap, turn the adjuster screw until the gauge is snug but not tight in the gap as shown in the following pics. The manual says .05mm for both valves. That's about .003 in. It helps to bend the tip of the gauge to get into tight places. Thats what its set at .05mm for both.. I need help, also I noticed with the new carb, if I restict the air with my fingers as its running I can get a bit more rpm out of it. With the old carb it was the same,I was told this was a lean condition so I drill out the jet a few thousands got it to max 5k rpm untill I kept increasing the main jet size till I got it too big. Thats when I replaced the entire carb.. How much voltage should I get to the auto choke?
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Post by harrywr2 on Aug 28, 2009 16:09:27 GMT -5
.05mm = .002 inches. Paper = .004 inches.
Most folks set intak .003-004 INCHES and exhaust to .004-.005 INCHES.
Plenty of old manuals laying around that haven't been updated since EPA took the lead out of gasoline.
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Post by bikerdude on Aug 28, 2009 17:18:07 GMT -5
OK! was not getting the mm to inches conversion. Thx that clears up alot. Will readajust Would that diff cause it to only rev to 4000 rpm wot. I just saw a utube demo on the CVT mine doenst move front or back pulleys. Maybe not enough rpms to get them to activate?
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Post by harrywr2 on Aug 28, 2009 18:31:01 GMT -5
I just saw a utube demo on the CVT mine doenst move front or back pulleys. Maybe not enough rpms to get them to activate? Your clutch is probably the only part of the bike that isn't plastic or aluminum, some sort of steal. Steal rusts. I'd probably take it apart and clean it up real good with brakleen and some sand paper.
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Post by bikerdude on Aug 28, 2009 19:08:42 GMT -5
There was not a speck of tarnish or dirt in the carb, still cleaned it several times. Just did the valves again as per instructed here, runs smoother and quiet! got it up to 4200 rpm and I also had the cvt cover off, I saw with no load on the center stand that both the clutch and the cvt were operating properly. If I put any load on it it bogs down bad. Was able to ride it for the first time got about 8mph downhill and 3mph back up the slight grade. CVT was very shiny and worked well! No rust anywhere. Help me!
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Post by "Big Guy" on Aug 28, 2009 19:47:53 GMT -5
I guess you edited your post, because you originally said your compression was 35-40lbs. If this is the case, all the advise in the world will not solve your problems. What is the compression on the bike?
-Rich
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Post by bikerdude on Aug 28, 2009 21:57:30 GMT -5
No edit, it was 35/40, then someone suggested adjusting valves and recheck. I just reread the post it was you rich! You said to look for more than 3x that. I did now, it is 150. After the valve adjustment... Still the same, no blowback out of the intake and starts perfectly, idles nicely and will rev up to 4000 rpm. But no more I still have 3/4 throttle left but just bogs down worse the more gas I give it, New carb from a local dealer he assured me that would cure it. still the exact same???
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Post by "Big Guy" on Aug 28, 2009 23:16:04 GMT -5
This is indeed a puzzle... I would go next to the CDI, it's cheap enough to replace and a spare is always a good idea. I'm wondering if there's a vapor lock? Take off your gas cap and see how it revs without it.
Have you replaced your fuel lines?
-Rich
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Post by bikerdude on Aug 29, 2009 7:24:27 GMT -5
I will check that shortly, I do have plenty of gas when I loosen the bowl drain hose, May run a line direct from tank to carb to bypass vacuum petcock. Did not replace fuel lines. The local dealer wants 35$ for a CDI unit and he kept saying that's not going to fix it.. So I didn't get it. This was the same dealer that was sure the replacement carb would fix it. Yes this problem is making me crazy. I have repaired many 1000cc in line 4 and synchronized 4 carb Kawasaki engines. Modified air and exhaust with no problem. I get this little scoot and I been working every day all day for a week! LOL
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Post by bikerdude on Aug 29, 2009 7:40:06 GMT -5
Just ran it with no gas cap, no diff. Was able to blow air through holes in gas gap with no restriction! Now I need mouth wash! That tastes BAD Frank I searched on here for a long time have not seen a post where it wont rev past 4000 rpm..
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Post by harrywr2 on Aug 29, 2009 8:22:06 GMT -5
I would look for too much air as the problem....easy enough to restrict the air with a bit of duct tape. A cracked air box will cause a stock bike with a stock carb to bogg at 1/4 throttle.
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Post by bikerdude on Aug 29, 2009 9:30:29 GMT -5
Interesting you say that Harry! I was just investigating the CDI unit and found one of the wires just holding onto the crimp by the insulation only! Striped and soldered it to the crimp joint! Thought this will fix it, same thing! Then I removed the intake hose and restricted the intake with my fingers and was able to get 6000rpm, it sounded like way more digital tach must be off! Ran it a bit at WOT smelled like a new scoot heating up for the first time. Not super hot but new grill smell LOL. Killed engine pulled plug the once fluffy black plug was now bleached white. So OK its lean now with my fingers restricting it. I did have to be VERY precise on my restriction or it would not rev. I would never be able to duplicated the modulation of the fingers in the intake. This thing has never ran normal to my knowledge. I bought it this way, I love a challenge! Now I'm back to the carb again and that has been replaced? Now what??? Frank
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Post by bikerdude on Aug 29, 2009 9:41:43 GMT -5
Oh, forgot checked the timing seemed good as I rolled up the throttle advance was working.. Then timing goes wayyy off as the engine stumbles past the 4000 rpm mark.....The guy I bought it off of said his wife wanted a Harley and refused to ride this one he bought 2 identical.. I think it never ran right it did have 6 km on it. The tires have never even wore off the center mold flashing!
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Post by jrinlv315 on Aug 29, 2009 9:59:01 GMT -5
with only 6 miles on the bike would the rings even be seated ?
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Post by bikerdude on Aug 29, 2009 10:34:26 GMT -5
After a valve adjustment my compression went from 35/40 to 150
If I have my fingers in the intake it runs better and the plug is white, so I guess I must increase the jet to match the normal air flow. Didn't want to tear into the new carb as this was what I had with the original carb.. That had a 1.04 in the main jet what is average?
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Post by harrywr2 on Aug 29, 2009 10:51:53 GMT -5
This thing has never ran normal to my knowledge. I bought it this way, I love a challenge! Now I'm back to the carb again and that has been replaced? Now what??? Frank So we are at least in the neighborhood of the problem. Chinese air boxes tend to degrade with time...so check for cracks real close. I would try raising the carb needle a notch. Most carb needles have 3-5 notches and an adjustable C-Clip. Lowering the C-Clip a notch(raising the needle) gives you a slightly richer mixture once you come off of idle. If your don't have a needle with a C-Clip then a couple of small washers under the head of the needle works two. Talking maybe 1-2 mm height change.
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Post by bikerdude on Aug 29, 2009 11:08:01 GMT -5
I do see the rear mounting tab is broken on the air box, but that has a square air hole right next to it, covering this hole when running kills or bogs the engine. The old carb had a Phillips head screw is that the height adjustment? I will see what this new carb uses.
Thx Frank
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Post by harrywr2 on Aug 29, 2009 11:19:47 GMT -5
I do see the rear mounting tab is broken on the air box, but that has a square air hole right next to it, covering this hole when running kills or bogs the engine. The old carb had a Phillips head screw is that the height adjustment? I will see what this new carb uses. Thx Frank you have to take the top off the carb. Inside will be a spring, and a rubber diapragm that raises and lowers the needle. The needle sits in the center of the diaphragm.
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Post by bikerdude on Aug 29, 2009 11:25:23 GMT -5
Will do, trying it now. although if I force the slide needle assemble up with my fingers in there it makes no diff its already at the top position. still its a tapered shaft so I will try it. 2 carbs with the same exact scenario??? Possible I guess?
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Post by harrywr2 on Aug 29, 2009 11:30:52 GMT -5
Will do, trying it now. although if I force the slide needle assemble up with my fingers in there it makes no diff its already at the top position. still its a tapered shaft so I will try it. 2 carbs with the same exact scenario??? Possible I guess? Factory setting is on the ragged edge of too lean at sea level. I got a 3/16" diameter hose from my gearbox to airbox...if I disconnect it the bike runs like a heap. Just takes a tiny bit of extra air to send them over the edge.
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