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Post by jonathan150cc on May 13, 2009 23:53:48 GMT -5
I took on GY6Rocket's idea of using the Brigg's & Stratton 5-8hp lawnmower muffler and altered it to allow for quick removal and replacement, in case something happens to your muffler or you want a try differently drilled baffles. You're now allowed the option of simply replacing your muffle for nothing more than the cost of the muffler. It's pretty straight forward. You'll need: 1. Hacksaw 2. 3/4" diameter threaded conduit coupling (steel) 3. Briggs&Stratt muffler 4. Something or someone who can weld I started by hacking off the original muffler at the connection with the head pipe. Seeing that the inlet on the muffler and the header were the same. I took the muffer with me to Home Depot. Looking for some way to mate the two pieces I stumbled into the electrical piping section. That's where I found the threaded collar. It costs only $1.38, is galvanized steel and is long enough to allow the entire threaded section of the muffler to screw into it while leaving room to insert the end of the head pipe. It might be 2 inches long. I can't weld, so I had the muffler shop down the street do it for me. The cost for that was $15 and that included cleaning up my original cut. I then screwed in the muffler and that was that. I plan on painting the whole system a nice flat black. As far as sound goes, I couldn't stop smiling. I've had an MRP system before and I found it to be obnoxious. This simple system gives the deep sound of a straight pipe system while the small, baffled muffler chokes off just enough of the "BLAAAT" to make it roll smoothly as the RPMs increase. It's a very pleasing tone and should cost you under $30. Performace wise, I'm getting the same top speed as I had with the MRP setup. I have a UNI filter, 120 jet and this cheap exhaust perfoms as well, at least in top speed, as the MRP setup with the same intake.
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Post by numbski on May 19, 2009 6:35:10 GMT -5
Are you doing anything to keep the muffler from spinning off of those threads?
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Post by jonathan150cc on May 19, 2009 7:23:36 GMT -5
After my first ride, which was up to operating temperature, and cool down, It took a LOT of effort to loosen the muffler. I keep checking it periodically to make sure that it's still good and snug. No problems with that yet. I will say that I had to fabricate a mount to keep the end of this new exhaust system from vibrating itself apart. After two days my header cracked from the extra pressure place on the bend in the pipe. To remebedy this, I first had the crack welded and then I used some 1/8" aluminum bar and made a simple "L" bracket and attached it to the exhaust via a "U" bolt. Now I can yank on the exhaust system and whole swingarm assembly moves with it. Good and solid. And here is a photo of the system with a chromed steel exhaust tip. I still haven't painted the bracket and exhaust yet. Here is a video of the exhaust. This is with a UNI filter intake as well. View My Video
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Post by redhandmoto on May 19, 2009 10:14:28 GMT -5
Her'e's a bone - if I can get out of garden duty this week, I gotta make one o' my own! Bitchin', as they used to say...
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Post by jonathan150cc on May 19, 2009 11:57:30 GMT -5
It's really all pretty cheap and easy.
I've spent a total of: $8 - muffler $2 - conduit coupling $15 - welder $16 - exhaust tip $7 - 3' of aluminum bar $3 - "U" bolt ------------------------ $51
This could be done cheaper. 1 - You don't have to make the bracket out of aluminum. I just wanted something that was very solid and would last. 2- The exhaust tip was a little on the higher side, but it does smooth out the exhaust note even more. Purely cosmetic. 3- My welding costs were higher than normal because the guys did some clean up work for me. If you can weld, this part won't cost you anything.
You can probably get away with only spending $20 if you are resourceful.
A tip: If you cut the head pip close to the engine, you will get a higher pitched sound. The longer the header the deeper the tone. The muffler just quiets it down a bit.
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Post by redhandmoto on May 19, 2009 15:03:00 GMT -5
Thanks; i'll take deep
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Post by numbski on May 19, 2009 15:18:47 GMT -5
Got a link to that exhaust tip? Looks a lot less ghetto with that on there. Another curiosity is what your main jet is at right now with the UNI filter. Tossed you a bone btw - this could finally solve my muffler problems.
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Post by jonathan150cc on May 19, 2009 22:37:40 GMT -5
My main jet is a 120. It's been like this since I had the MRP. Switching back to the stock muffler with the UNI intake made the scoot run a little rich. Now that she's opened up again, it's pretty spot on. I'm a wee bit lean while decelerating, but it's close enough.
I got the resonated exhaust tip at Wally World. It's the biggest thing they had and it comes with long and short clamp bolts to fit different sized exhaust pipes. I had to use the long one.
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Post by jonathan150cc on May 19, 2009 22:53:03 GMT -5
Painted and finished. Even installed a new exhaust gasket.
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Post by priest093 on May 24, 2009 16:31:13 GMT -5
just wondering if something like that would work on my QMB139?
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Post by usfmarine on May 25, 2009 4:30:02 GMT -5
Of course it would. Just smaller design of course. Semper Fi.
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Post by JR on May 25, 2009 7:41:48 GMT -5
Just wondering if this could have been made a lot prettier to go along with the chrome air scoop? It also needs a heat gaurd on it if ya happen to touch you leg up against it then whoooooie! JRR
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Post by trigger on May 25, 2009 20:47:11 GMT -5
Nice post jonathan150cc,
That sounds better than my moded stock muffler at idle. Probably a little louder when you revved it. I need to find some flanges and pipe and weld up one of these. I would bet the mid range is pretty good too.
How is that high power spark coil working for you? Im considering getting one soon.
Have a bone,
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Post by jonathan150cc on May 26, 2009 9:30:34 GMT -5
Haven't noticed a difference with the coil. When I bought this scoot it came with most of the performance goodies already on it.
As for heat and being burned by the exhaust, I have a weird scenario.
After a 20 minute ride, I came home and wanted to feel down near to muffler to ensure that there were no air leaks or anything out of the ordinary. the head pipe and muffler, out towards the end, were just a bit past warm to the touch. Not HOT at all. I'm not sure how to explain that. I don't know if the material that the muffler is made out of dissipates heat better than the old steel system, but it's a hug difference over the stock muffler, which could seriously burn you.
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Post by ozark on May 28, 2009 19:53:05 GMT -5
Wish I had read this before I cut my pipe and muffler. I was headed in a different direction with it. Nice job and think I'll scrap mine and start over. Thought that it would need a support bracket for sure. And glad to hear that Wally has that tip. Those things can get expensive. I'll toss the dawg a bone on this one. I did make this out of the stock muffler by cutting it down to 8" and removing the guts. Haven't had a real chance to see how it sounds as I've broke both exhaust studs before the real road test. I'll report back after I figure out how to get the studs out and replaced with shinny new ones.
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Post by ozark on May 28, 2009 22:07:16 GMT -5
Hey just a thought, why not weld that support bracket right to the threaded piece and lose the muffler clamp. It would be all one piece right? Yours looks pretty cool and a cheap alternative to those expensive aftermarket models. I'm gonna make one.
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Post by numbski on May 29, 2009 22:16:36 GMT -5
Hey Ozark, check your PM's.
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Post by numbski on May 30, 2009 16:56:00 GMT -5
Hey, strange thought - I wonder if someone isn't able to weld, and is really strapped for cash - couldn't then just JB Weld that threaded conduit coupling to the pipe? Sure, it will take longer, but there's a fair chance that it would hold up over time, isn't there? Just wondering - there's a guy on a tight budget over on the 125cc+ forum looking for ways to increase performance, and taking the welding out of the equation could save some money if they already have JB Weld laying around!
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Post by jonathan150cc on Jun 1, 2009 7:31:19 GMT -5
Well, the coupling fits nicely over the cut head pipe. So, I guess, given enough time to properly cure, JB weld should work well enough.
Currently, the "U" bolt attaches to my aluminum bracket by going around the coupling piece. This would help to limit the stresses that vibrations would cause on the JB weld.
I think it would work fine, just make sure you give it sufficient time to cure.
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Post by jonathan150cc on Jun 1, 2009 7:36:43 GMT -5
Ozark, I'd like to hear a sample of that shorty exhaust when you get time.
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Post by bob67 on Jun 1, 2009 16:02:00 GMT -5
can you shoot a short video with sound of that thing and post it from photobucket or youtube ? rev it up a bit for us .... I have a welder and could put a "Y" pipe on it and have duel exaust , lol .or it could exit under the license plate area like a sportbike dukati ?
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Post by jonathan150cc on Jun 1, 2009 20:20:54 GMT -5
You asking me? I have a video posted above.
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Post by boostaddict on Jun 15, 2009 15:20:42 GMT -5
I'd like to share mine thanks to gy6rocket for the idea! Here it is on my ruckus Not loud at all! I love how it sounds video in my thread here on totalruckus totalruckus.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=92&t=24990&start=75Just goes to show that being cheap doesn't have to look bad at all! My friend sleeved it and welded it up for me ;D
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Post by shalomdawg on Jun 18, 2009 17:33:30 GMT -5
howdy, it's probably about 10 pounds lighter as well. good post
lotsa miles and smiles to ya ken
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Post by jamescell on Jun 18, 2009 20:57:02 GMT -5
I just temp fabbed a replica of your setup. Nice and small, quite a bit louder than my current pipe but much deeper. Not sure if I will be welding this on my v8 pipe or not. Man I wish I had kept my stock exhaust now
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Post by jamescell on Jun 23, 2009 20:41:54 GMT -5
My v8 muffler broke today for the 5th time! Why would you use pot metal on a stress point of a muffler? 30 mins after I got home I had this! I was running a 145 with the v8 muffler, With this I am down to a 125. Looks like I lost a couple of mph but if it lasts a week I can live with the speed loss.
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Post by jamescell on Jun 25, 2009 8:37:00 GMT -5
I just tossed the above setup, I actually lost 10mph that jetting could not get back. I went out and bought a 8-16hp muffler with a 1" inlet. My top end is back! In addition my 40-55mph acceleration is much better than with the v8 setup, also my 0-10 is much stronger. The 8-16hp muffler is a bit louder while accelerating and deaccelerating but not bad at all. While crusing the intake is louder.
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Post by ebscoot on Jul 20, 2009 12:36:27 GMT -5
I wonder what how that B&S muffler would sound on a 250cc?
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Post by magnaman on Jul 29, 2009 20:54:13 GMT -5
I just tossed the above setup, I actually lost 10mph that jetting could not get back. I went out and bought a 8-16hp muffler with a 1" inlet. My top end is back! In addition my 40-55mph acceleration is much better than with the v8 setup, also my 0-10 is much stronger. The 8-16hp muffler is a bit louder while accelerating and deaccelerating but not bad at all. While crusing the intake is louder. Pics please...
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Post by jamescell on Jul 30, 2009 7:04:35 GMT -5
I just tossed the above setup, I actually lost 10mph that jetting could not get back. I went out and bought a 8-16hp muffler with a 1" inlet. My top end is back! In addition my 40-55mph acceleration is much better than with the v8 setup, also my 0-10 is much stronger. The 8-16hp muffler is a bit louder while accelerating and deaccelerating but not bad at all. While crusing the intake is louder. Pics please... Scoots torn down right now.. When iI get the head back from the machine shop I will take a few. It's not as pretty as the 3/4" muffler, but it's worth the extra mph to me.
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