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Post by Riddick79 on Jan 19, 2009 18:31:15 GMT -5
Ok. These are the cables coming from the stator. Now I just have to find out which 2 are the 12v cables that go to the headlights, cut them, and connect them to the black wire coming from the ignition? There is one white, one yellow, one green, a red with black line, and one white with a red line or Vise versa.
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Post by gy6rocket on Jan 19, 2009 22:43:19 GMT -5
Sorry to tell ya, but you don't have an 11 coil stator. That's a 6 or at best an 8 coil.
You just cannot cut the wire, as both the yellow and the white are unregulated AC going to the regulator. The Headlights are usually tapped off the yellow wire. YOu need to make sure to leave the yellow wire connected to the regulator bur disconnect the wire going to the headlamps. This is where the multimeter comes in, so you can do continuity tests without ripping apart the harness.
The red/white striped lines are for the ignition, one is a coil to generate current for spark , the other is a trigger to know when to fire the plug. Don't mess with those or you engine will not run.
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Post by scootdoggydog on Jan 20, 2009 0:16:48 GMT -5
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Post by Riddick79 on Jan 20, 2009 1:18:17 GMT -5
Ugh. This sounds a bit too hard for me to handle. I think I'm just going to give up and get used to my halogens. As much as I love lighting and HID's, I don't think I can do it this time. I just don't understand most of this electric talk.
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Post by gy6rocket on Jan 20, 2009 9:20:31 GMT -5
Its not as hard as it sounds, but it's not simple. It does require some labor to remove panels and re-wire things. My advise to you is to buy a cheap digital multi meter (just picked up a nice spare at micro center for $13) and learn how it works by reading the instructions it comes with. This is single handedly the best tool for this type of work, as it eliminates all the guessing. Most of that other article was just about the 11 coil stator and increasing output from the 6 & 8 pole stators, it was not really about rewiring the headlamp circuit.
If all else fails and you really want the HID's but don't want to mess with the wiring harness then just run your own wires. Add a small toggle switch somewhere near the handlebars to operate a relay that is wired directly to the battery. This is probably the best way anyway because the draw of the HID may exceed the charging capicity of the bike. You will be able to tell in a day or two if this is the case.
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Post by Riddick79 on Jan 21, 2009 2:45:30 GMT -5
Ok, I bought a cheap multimeter from Harbor Freight today. www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90899Tell me if this is correct. I have to: - Find the 12V wires going from the stator to the regulator (in front of scooter) - Then cut them before the regulator - And use those to power my wiring harness connected to battery? How many 12v wires are there? and are the headlight wires the only 12v wires?
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Post by scootdoggydog on Jan 21, 2009 3:11:34 GMT -5
no you dont cut the wires before they go to the regulator
your headlight wires will be branched off of the unregulated ac wire that goes from stator to regulator so you disconnect/cut that/those wires and connect them to the 12v dc wire coming from the ignition thats the hard one to find and is the reason for the multimeter
but i like gy6rockets suggestion to run your own wires directly from the battery with a toggle switch mounted somewhere
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Post by Riddick79 on Jan 21, 2009 3:26:07 GMT -5
Ok. I think I get it. I'll take some pics tomorrow, just before I cut them, to make sure they're the right ones. Thanks for your patience scootdog.
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Post by Riddick79 on Jan 22, 2009 21:08:02 GMT -5
Is this the regulator? It's inside the front cover under the headlights. I disconnected it, but the lights were still on.
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Post by scootdoggydog on Jan 22, 2009 21:44:46 GMT -5
yes thats the regulator and the power that supplies the headlights comes from the stator not the regulator thats why they stayed on
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Post by gy6rocket on Jan 22, 2009 21:47:19 GMT -5
lol, you are not grasping how the charging circuit / headlights are wired at all. Since I feel bad for ya, and you decided to purchase the multimeter in an effort to learn more about the subject I took the time to draw a before and after wiring diagram. This is sort of an over-simplified diagram but you can see essentially what needs to be done. Right click > Save as for a larger resolution.
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Post by Riddick79 on Jan 22, 2009 22:08:18 GMT -5
Ok. So I have to cut the yellow and green wires from the stator, and connect them to any 12V cable coming from the regulator?
Now I only need to learn how to use the multimeter. :/
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Post by scootdoggydog on Jan 22, 2009 22:49:10 GMT -5
to make sure you dont cut the wrong yellow wire make sure it is coming from the headlights and not the yellow wire inbetween the stator and regulator
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Post by Riddick79 on Jan 22, 2009 23:06:17 GMT -5
I actually have these 2 wires coming from the headlights. The blue and white. I'm guessing one is high beam and one is low beam. So I should cut the low beam and connect to the 12V wire coming from the ignition switch?
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Post by Riddick79 on Jan 22, 2009 23:09:48 GMT -5
These are the wires coming from the ignition switch.
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Post by scootdoggydog on Jan 23, 2009 1:03:26 GMT -5
on mine high beam was blue and yellow was low
now the ignition looks like 2 going in and 2 coming out green most likely ground red most likely 12+ and the other 2 are the same 1 of each you could problably set the meter to 50 vdc attatch the black lead to ground and start sticking the red lead into the connector to find the 12vdc wires my guess is that with the key turned off youll get 1 12v wire problably red and with the key turned on one of the blacks will show 12v and thatll be the wire to tap into for the + to supply power to the hids
im not 100% sure and you should get a second opinion before you take to my advice on this
does that connector for the headlights have 4 wires going in on top and only 2 coming out on bottom
and what does your wiring harness for your hids look like with the relay does it look like gy6's drawing
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Post by Riddick79 on Jan 23, 2009 1:34:49 GMT -5
The connector for the headlights has 4 in and 4 out. 2 are for small wedge bulbs inside the headlights, and the other 2 are the for headlights. This is what the harness that I have looks like. I bought a toggle switch to use with it, but I think it needs power to power up the relay. Is that correct? I'm wondering if it has to be DC to power up the relay, or why didn't it power up when I connected it to the stock harness.
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Post by scootdoggydog on Jan 23, 2009 1:57:17 GMT -5
I'm wondering if it has to be DC to power up the relay, or why didn't it power up when I connected it to the stock harness. why dont you just connect it directly to the battery to find out something bust have been connected wrong exactly how did you hook it up before on both scoots the one that worked and the one that didnt
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Post by Riddick79 on Jan 23, 2009 2:06:39 GMT -5
Ok. I connected the wires that are supposed to connect to the stock headlight wire harness, directly to the battery and the HID turned on. Is the power from the battery DC or AC?
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Post by scootdoggydog on Jan 23, 2009 2:19:43 GMT -5
im not familiar with your wiring harness how did you have it setup on the scooter that it worked on
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Post by Riddick79 on Jan 23, 2009 2:31:19 GMT -5
I updated my last post, Not sure if you saw that. - The red cable that says "Power battery" is the (+) from battery, and the cable that says "ground" goes to the (-) side on the battery. - The cables that say "to headlights", connects to the HID ballast. - The ones that say power and ground from harness, went into my H4 stock socket. The black one was ground and the white one went into the low beam. This scoot doesn't use H4. It has a light bulb that is similar to a house bulb, but smaller. It uses 3 wires, one for ground, one for low beam, and one for high beam. I cut off the stock connector and connected an H4 connector but had no luck.
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Post by scootdoggydog on Jan 23, 2009 2:44:47 GMT -5
the battery is dc
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Post by Riddick79 on Jan 23, 2009 2:48:19 GMT -5
Now we're getting somewhere. I'll think of something tomorrow. I'm too sleepy right now. Thanks a lot for your help. I'll keep you updated.
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Post by gy6rocket on Jan 23, 2009 10:16:37 GMT -5
For reference: Red = Always hot from battery Green = Ground Black = Switched hot (hot when key is on) Black w/ white stripe = Kill Switch (ground to kill engine) What I did was find the hi beam wire going up to the headlight switch, cut that and spliced it to the black wire coming from the ignition. This way the headlamp circuit can only be live (on) when the key is on and the switch is set to hi beam. Now I wired the coil part of the relay to the hibeam circuit so the handlebar switch will turn the relay on/off. Now all that's left is to wire the other side of the relay to your ballast, so that the relay connects/disconnects power directly from the battery. That harness you have is already prewired so that makes things rather easy. What you have labeled 'power and ground' from stock harness is connected to the relay coil, which you want to put 12v across to close the high current switch (thick red wire connects to blue headlamp output wires when coil is energized) You put 12v across the coil using the converted headlamp switch, this closes the high current circuit that connects the ballast directly to the battery. Basically the relay is just a simple amplifier, controlling a high draw circuit with a low draw circuit. The coil is an electromagnet that, when energized, pulls a metal contact closed on a high amperage circuit.
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Post by Riddick79 on Jan 23, 2009 16:21:43 GMT -5
ince the harness already has a relay, is it necessary to use another one? These are the cables going to the light switch. The yellow is the only one i get power out of. I'm guessing that the yellow is the incoming power and the blue and white are the return power for low and high beam. If I wanted to just connect it directly, would I cut the yellow, and connect it to the black switch wire?
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Post by scootdoggydog on Jan 23, 2009 16:39:48 GMT -5
my guess is to cut the yellow splice it into the black from the ignition now your headlights will get 12vdc from ignition when you turn the key and then at your headlights you should have white/blue/green this is where the power and ground from stock harness get connected black to green and then white to either blue or white (high or low)
i hope thats right
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Post by Riddick79 on Jan 23, 2009 16:43:55 GMT -5
K. I'll splice the yellow to the black. Thanks
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Post by Riddick79 on Jan 23, 2009 17:35:24 GMT -5
WOOOT!! It worked. This was my face when it turned on. Thanks Scootdoggydog and gy6rocket for all your help and patience. I know I'm a bit slow when it comes to electrical. I've given you each a bone for all your help. I'd give you more if I could. I'll take some pics of them when I finish cleaning up the wiring. ;D ;D ;D
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Post by scootdoggydog on Jan 23, 2009 17:39:04 GMT -5
cool now lets hope the battery stays charged
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Post by Riddick79 on Jan 23, 2009 19:37:52 GMT -5
Yep. I have space for a 2nd battery in case it doesn't stay charged. Here are some quick pics. I'm going to look for a 25w H4 bulb to install a yellow capsule on the left side. Just like those sport bikes you see with one yellow and one blue headlight. Yellow capsule
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