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Post by tankscooterlady on Oct 10, 2008 20:55:23 GMT -5
I'm a new scooter owner. Purchased a Tank 2006 150cc T-K scooter. It didn't run too long before it started stalling and died. a friend of mine and I determined its probably the Voltage regulator. So I feel like a dummy, but I'm not quite sure where the regulator is on my bike (I think I found it but not sure - black box looking thing). can anyone show me a pick of the guts of your tank and show me where things are? I bought the general Haynes Repair manual, but the picks are so murky I feel lost. Also, anyhow have advice on replacing the regulator? Although I'm new to being a scooter owner, I'm decent with gadgets/handywork. I appreciate the help and tolerating my newness. Gotta start somewhere though. I really want to learn my bike and how to fix it
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Post by scootdoggydog on Oct 10, 2008 21:29:38 GMT -5
why do you think its the voltage regulator?
what rpms are you at when its stalling and dying? you might need an idle adjustment
the voltage regulator is metal with fins on it problably black or gray that problably has 4 wires to it but its not going to cause your scooter to die the lights might go out or the battery wont charge but thats about it
i think your thinking of of the cdi which is a black plastic box that has 5 wires going to it
if you can give a little bit better of a detailed description about what you think it is
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Post by scootwes on Oct 10, 2008 23:46:37 GMT -5
I agree with scootdoggydog, if it's a fairly new bike, it's likely to be something other than the voltage regulator.
1) Does it start up easily? 2) Does it idle smoothly? 3) Does it cough or sputter before it stalls? 4) Does it stall when you twist the throttle? 4) Does it stall at a particular speed? 5) If it idles smoothly, can you give it throttle without it dying?
These are the sort of things that will help us give you some ideas about what it wrong. The more details you can supply, the easier it is to diagnose . . .
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Post by tankscooterlady on Oct 13, 2008 22:13:59 GMT -5
i bought this scooter used. I bought it knowing it needed a new battery (it needed to be jump started everytime because of this), which I replaced immediately. I rode it for a few weeks. It would stall when I started it up, and usually at the first few stop signs and then it would be fine. The front brake was squeaking pretty loud, so a neighbor in my building put his friend and so called motorcycle in my path. He said all my bike needed was a tune up. So i paid him to do so, the squeaking did stop, but I drove the bike to the store right after he left and on the way home the headlights went out, then it just kept dying. I tried to get the guy to come back and fix whatever he did to mess up the bike, but of course he scammed me and is nowhere to be found. I spent $ I couldn't really afford on his repair, so its just been sitting for the past few weeks. I got the haynes repair manual and went through the check with a friend and we think its the regulator, but of course we could be wrong. he's whats going on with the bike now. We checked spark plug, its fine.. Whats strange is right when I connect my battery jumper, it drains immediately. I charged it overnight, and the bike rans for a little while then died down again. so for some reason, its not maintaining power. It loses energy then gets to the point where it won't turn over....and has a sort of dying sounds when you try and start it.... like a struggle and dying sound. Hope this info makes some sort of sense to where you can help me thank you!
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Post by harrywr2 on Oct 13, 2008 23:31:50 GMT -5
Tanks are known for brake light switches that stick. The stator(generator) does not produce enough juice to run the brake lights and head lights full time. At least half the dealers that sell Tank parts are sold out of brake light switches.
Simple test...if you can start your bike(or the starter makes a bit of an effort) without holding a brake lever...you have a stuck switch. $5 part. Order two.
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Post by tankscooterlady on Oct 13, 2008 23:57:49 GMT -5
I don't think thats the problem. I can't start it without holding down brake.. but good to know for the future
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Post by harrywr2 on Oct 14, 2008 8:19:25 GMT -5
Charging issues break down into a couple of approaches 1) Am I using too much juice for some reason? common problems are stuck brake light switches and the remote alarms going wrong. 2) Is my battery holding a charge? batteries do go bad..if you put it on a trickle charger at 5 PM and disconnect it at 11 PM and the battery is weak in the morning...it's probably the battery 3) Is my bike charging the battery? If the ground wire from the battery to the frame/engine isn't providing good ground the battery won't charge...or the stator could not be putting out enough juice or the regulator could be bad. Picture of some regulators here...Tank has used 4 different styles. Changing them is as easy as unplugging the old one and putting in the new one www.scootersgeorgia.com/voresmone.html
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Post by abscooters on Oct 14, 2008 8:19:53 GMT -5
What model are we talking. I'm not familiar with a 150 T-K, and think you may be talking about a 150T-H. That model and it's sister 250 are the only Tanks notorious for brake light switches. It does not seam that is what your problem is. Do you have an alarm/remote starter system? This ought to be removed. Can you kickstart your bike with the battery disconnected? Your electrical problem could be anything from a loose wire or ground up to some defective components like a battery, regulator, diode or stator. You need to have someone that is knowledgeable with scooters check this out. If you want to throw parts at it and just order stuff and try it, I'd be glad to sell you parts, but I would hate for you to be buying things you don't need (And I do have the Brake light switches too ). As for your scooter dying this could be an entirely different issue, it could be your CDI, valve adjustment, vacuum leak, carb problems, etc..
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Post by anhoa on Oct 14, 2008 8:53:16 GMT -5
Get a digital volt meter and test the charging system first. If the Voltage Regulator output is about 12.5v to 14.5v when you idle and rev the engine to 3000-5000 RPM then you're OK. Anything under 12.5v or 14.5+v, then check/clean the ground/frame at the connectors, or replace a new voltage regulator and test the charging system again.
Anhoa
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