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Post by Kiwiscoot on Mar 14, 2010 3:14:31 GMT -5
One slight issue; can someone tell me where the @#%@ is the adjustment bolt/screw for the headlight?? It is very low as it came from the factory (just 5-6 feet away!!) Thanks, Stamatis I seem to think that on the left side in the glove compartment is a cover you can take off to get to it. If not then... Look in the service manual page 2-12 Headligh Beam Distance. To take front apart look at Chapter 13. It gives the sequence of removing the parts. Once you look at the scoot it will be clear. Also look at the bottom of Page 2 of this review wher I show how to fit the screen. Once you've taken the garnish and front handle cover off you'll notice the two black screw that hold the black front cover lid. Undo those and slide the lid up and it will unclip. Now you'll be able to get to the back of the lights. Maybe with a stubby screwdriver you may be able to adjust them, but if my memory serves me right I think it's too tight. Just undo the screws that hold the nose cone then. I wanted to adjust mine too, but I found the drivers here don't seem to mind if I ride on high beam always. The odd one may complain then I just dim for them. At night in the city I ride on dim. hope this helps kiwiscoot where we had summer again 25 degC. PS hope you enjoy it as much as I enjoy mine. I see you have the new "improved" model with more foot room. As a commuter the Citycom is a "weapon". ;D |
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Post by skritikos on Mar 14, 2010 12:14:55 GMT -5
Headlight height setting: Service manual section 17-16 !
I think I can do that even without removing anything, just be careful not to scratch the front wheel cover or any other painted plastic.
I will update tomorrow.
Thank you all ;D
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Post by skritikos on Mar 14, 2010 13:00:10 GMT -5
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Mar 14, 2010 14:29:06 GMT -5
I like ;D I like ;D
Nice looking with the black wheels and red brake calipers.
Miles of smiles to you.
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Post by skritikos on Mar 14, 2010 14:56:13 GMT -5
I like ;D I like ;D Nice looking with the black wheels and red brake calipers. Miles of smiles to you. ...and red helmet too ;D ;D Thanks Paul! |
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Mar 14, 2010 19:09:11 GMT -5
you have another member argirhs who is in Greece. He has been quiet tho.
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Post by skritikos on Mar 15, 2010 16:37:13 GMT -5
OK, lights adjustment is really easy if you have capable hands ;D I used a short screwdriver, found both bolts with my fingers, unscrew both bolts enough to have the most bright OEM lights I've ever had on any two wheeler! A new question now! As I was testing my "new" lights I show that there is a position on the drive/high light switch (left hand) that permits both to be ON!! So this is 35 watts * 4= 140 watts in total! Do you think that the electric system can handle that?  CU soon! |
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Mar 16, 2010 0:16:11 GMT -5
The Citycom has a 380W alternator, so charging will be no problem. The lights anyway run direct from the battery on these scoots.
did you take off any panels??
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Post by skritikos on Mar 16, 2010 3:43:41 GMT -5
The Citycom has a 380W alternator, so charging will be no problem. The lights anyway run direct from the battery on these scoots. did you take off any panels?? No panels removed! You have to have a delicate hand though, as it is really tight back there. I turned the wheel fully to the right to do the left light and the opposite. This is the only way to have a bit more space to work on the screws. When you do such things you appreciate how important vision sense is ;D |
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Post by hualalai on Mar 16, 2010 13:57:38 GMT -5
So you accessed the adjustment screws from below, reaching between the radiator and forks?
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Post by skritikos on Mar 16, 2010 14:44:11 GMT -5
So you accessed the adjustment screws from below, reaching between the radiator and forks? Yes! |
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Post by Gary on Mar 16, 2010 23:00:58 GMT -5
Hi Kiwi -
Only have about 1,000 miles on the Michilins so can't say much about the wear. Agree that the scoot feels like it is on rails - tracks really nicely and is oblivious to inperfections in the roadway. Braking feels good too - I feel very confident with the tires.
Enjoy your scooting. We had a great Santa Ana day with temps around 80F. Had a really, really nicehome from work.
Cheers,
Gary
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Mar 17, 2010 4:35:09 GMT -5
Hi Kiwi - Only have about 1,000 miles on the Michilins so can't say much about the wear. Agree that the scoot feels like it is on rails - tracks really nicely and is oblivious to inperfections in the roadway. Braking feels good too - I feel very confident with the tires. Enjoy your scooting. We had a great Santa Ana day with temps around 80F. Had a really, really nicehome from work. Cheers, Gary what pressure do you run in your tyres? I tried 32 psi in the back and 29psi in the front as I used to run in the OEM Maxxis, but it feels very hard in the Michelins. Currently I run 30psi in the back and 28 in the front, but it still feels a bit on the hard side. enjoy your scooting. Our summer is over. Today had a 10 degC day with extreme windy winter showers. |
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Post by skritikos on Mar 17, 2010 5:28:46 GMT -5
ohh god! Our summer is just starting ;D
For the OEM Maxxis try 25F/28R, it grips better on slippery roads and is more stable under braking (I started at 28/32 and went down)
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Post by skritikos on Mar 19, 2010 8:42:05 GMT -5
People I need some help!
Since the first day I can hear a noise from the front when hitting a hard bump or the front brake hard.
It does not sound as a metal to metal sound; it's like a plastic that moves and then on the next bump/braking it goes back in the original position. This is a pitty as the rest of the bike is completely silent when falling in potholes, bumps or under hard braking.
The SYM guys where I bought the bike from say that it something unimportant and they will look into this at 1000km service (currently 450). BUT another mechanic today told me that the sound comes from a loose headset (bearing, cones) and he asked to disassemble the front part of the bike to check it.
Any ideas? What do you think?
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Post by Gary on Mar 19, 2010 9:16:51 GMT -5
Kiwi: I inflate my tires per the manual. 22psi front, 32psi rear. Remember this is for the RV-250 though.
Skritkos: i hear a single "clunk" from my scoots's front end every time I leave my driveway (which hits the road at a steep angle). I get the clunk hitting bad potholes, but not on braking. I've tried in vain to find the originof the clunk; everything is tight as far as I can telland nothing seems to be hitting. The noise hasn't changed since I've been riding the scoot, so I think it is "normal" for my scoot. You should certainly have yours checked though.
Gary
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Mar 19, 2010 16:51:59 GMT -5
Kritikos - are you sure the sound comes from the front? Why I ask, I know the center-stand makes a clunck noise when one hits potholes or go over a very sharp bump. I did put soft rubber onto the bottom of the engine case which dampened it.
Another thing, it could be the disk pads rubbing against the disk, mine does it mostly on the back, but it is only noticeable at low speeds. but this is a quiet rubbing noise.
Mine made a clunking noise out of the handlebars, which was the black dash plastic missing two screws fixing it to the handlebars. You will need to remove the windscreen to see the screws from the front of the scoot.
good luck
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Mar 19, 2010 17:08:48 GMT -5
Gary - thanks for that. I'll try my Citycom's recommended pressure. It was a bit soft with the OEM tires, but it seems the Michellin's side-walls are a bit stiffer than the OEM's.
Miles of smiles to you. & enjoy your summer riding. Our mornings temps are tracking down and is 4 degC at the moment.
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Post by skritikos on Mar 20, 2010 6:45:50 GMT -5
It seems that the SYM guys have thought about everything; you can remove the small plastic port that provides access to the radiator tank and you can reach the locking nut of the headset too! The guy used a large screwdriver and a rubber mallet to torque both nuts just by a few more degrees. The noise is now a thing of the past ;D ;D ;D
Furthermore, now that I am close to 500km the bike feels smoother, loose and powerful. Fuel consumption is still around 3.6lt/100km even after some hard motoman's style runs up to the mountains ;D
Thanks for all the help guys,
Stamatis
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Post by skritikos on Mar 20, 2010 6:53:38 GMT -5
Hi Kiwi - Only have about 1,000 miles on the Michilins so can't say much about the wear. Agree that the scoot feels like it is on rails - tracks really nicely and is oblivious to inperfections in the roadway. Braking feels good too - I feel very confident with the tires. Enjoy your scooting. We had a great Santa Ana day with temps around 80F. Had a really, really nicehome from work. Cheers, Gary what pressure do you run in your tyres? I tried 32 psi in the back and 29psi in the front as I used to run in the OEM Maxxis, but it feels very hard in the Michelins. Currently I run 30psi in the back and 28 in the front, but it still feels a bit on the hard side. enjoy your scooting. Our summer is over. Today had a 10 degC day with extreme windy winter showers. Paul, one nice rule of thumb about tyre pressure. When you are on the correct pressure for the tyres you have the pressure must rise 3-4 psi from cold to hot, for both tyres. If one gets hotter you have to inc pressure, colder and you have to dec pressure. |
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Mar 21, 2010 15:33:12 GMT -5
Thanks for that about the tire pressure. Tried them on the factory recommended 25psi front and 28psi back, but it is to soft. Ride is not crisp around bends. I could feel the scoot labouring at 120kph on the speedo & the rev's are up by about 650-750rpm. I think it's the rolling resistance that cause that. I think the factory pressures can be a bit on the low side, which gives the vehicle a good ride (may help give good impression for test rides).
My Toyota Surf SUV's factory recommended tire pressure is 25psi on 31inch tires is outright dangerous. One can rock the vehicle from side to side and see the sidewalls destort. May be alright for Japanese skifields but not for the open road.
I think the SYM recommended tire pressures are for Taiwanese riders where elderly men have a mean weight of 63kgs. Now I would think Taiwanese two up comes to about 130kgs. Then take the factory recommended pressure of 25psiF/32psiR at two weight. Us western men are way heavier than Taiwanese, I'm 90kgs, which seems to equate to about 30psi in the rear. I find the front has better handling with 28psi. I read somewhere that motorcycle tires perform better at higher pressures as the new profiles present more rubber to the road at leaning angles. That's when you don't want a soft tire to deform and loose it's optimum shape.
The mechanic who fitte my tires commented that I must've run the Maxxis OEM tires at the right pressure to get the 15000kms. Motorcycle tires can overheat very quickly if the pressure is to low and wear prematurely.
The
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Post by hualalai on Mar 21, 2010 22:25:43 GMT -5
I tried 25F/28R on my Citycom w/ OE Maxxis tires, and went back to 28F/32R. Although I loved the smoother ride the lower psi gave over patched pavement, I found the loss of (i) cornering precision, (ii) acceleration, and (iii) mpg unacceptable.
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Post by furshore on Mar 26, 2010 14:37:08 GMT -5
Valve adjustment. Has anyone adjusted thier valves. If so, can you tell me how you accessed the valves. I know you have to remove the seat box. Do you have to remove the battery and battery holder? Do you have to remove any covers under the scooter. Are there any other covers (trim) that needs to be removed? I used to have a SYM 200HD and I only had to remove a few trim parts to adjust the valves and the seat. I was easy.
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Mar 28, 2010 4:28:33 GMT -5
Just saw your post, but I'm too tired to answer now. Just back from a 480km trip thru the mountains and it's 10.30pm. I'll answer tomorrow as I've checked mine. kiwiscoot - after another awesome blast on the Citycom.  |
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Post by skritikos on Mar 29, 2010 14:05:50 GMT -5
Just saw your post, but I'm too tired to answer now. Just back from a 480km trip thru the mountains and it's 10.30pm. I'll answer tomorrow as I've checked mine. kiwiscoot - after another awesome blast on the Citycom. Paul, have you measured any oil consumption after those long rides? In general, do we have to check the oil every 500km or is it pointless (no consumption at all)? |
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Mar 29, 2010 14:57:07 GMT -5
No consumption at all. I mostly change the oil at 2000kms, but has done a 3000km run with one batch and never needed to add any or saw any change on the dipstick. I do check the oil probably every 1000kms. My scoots engine is as dry as when it left the factory too - no oil leaks. I run synthetic oil too 5W30 or 5W40 whatever I can get. I seem to get Castrol Edge mostly.
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Mar 29, 2010 14:58:54 GMT -5
Valve adjustment. Has anyone adjusted thier valves. If so, can you tell me how you accessed the valves. I know you have to remove the seat box. Do you have to remove the battery and battery holder? Do you have to remove any covers under the scooter. Are there any other covers (trim) that needs to be removed? I used to have a SYM 200HD and I only had to remove a few trim parts to adjust the valves and the seat. I was easy. I took the sidecovers, seat bucket , battery and floorboard off. You need angled feeler gauges to measure the clearances too. have fun - Kiwiscoot |
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Post by skritikos on Mar 31, 2010 9:28:13 GMT -5
Critical question! I changed tyres yesterday and fitted the Metz Feelfree. The guy that changed them has probably reversed the spacer that sits right begind the axle nut of the rear wheel. You can see the schematic in the Service Manual, page 16-1. I can see that the spacer on mine is now reversed, the wide part is sitting on the bearings and the slimmer part on the nut. Can you please check yours too? Half of the Citycoms that I checked today had the spacer according to the manual and the rest reversed!!! Help please  |
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Mar 31, 2010 14:29:41 GMT -5
That spacer has it's wide side to the nut as it is in the drawing of the manual. The narrow part should just push on the inner race/part of the bearing that fits around the shaft.
Fitting it with the wide side to the bearing may cause the spacer to rub on the seal and outer part of the bearing. Fitting it like that is wrong.
How did they fit the inner spacer (on the drawing between the swing-arm and the bolts for the disk)? That should be fitted with the narrow part facing the bearing too.
Did they grease the axle before they refitted the wheel? They should as the axle tends to rust and wear out.
I like your tires. That would be my favorite tire, but they are not available here in New Zealand.
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Post by skritikos on Apr 1, 2010 8:27:28 GMT -5
You are a good man Paul I convinced my tyre guy with the service manual at hand!! Some people are really stuborn and don't want to understand new things... Anyway, everything is as in the manual now, the bike rolls better again, and no damage done on the bearings or the swingarm. The FeelFrees are excellent, the bike is stable, predictable under braking on slippery roads and it grips a lot better than with the Maxxis. Do you want me to check the shipping cost to send a new pair to NZ? Take care, Stamatis |
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