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Post by peeweeaz1 on Sept 17, 2011 5:36:59 GMT -5
Now, this is a very helpful post. Thanks for all that useful info. I sometimes wonder how the Chinese who drive these things as is are still alive or are now walking instead of riding. Jeez.
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Post by 89newbie on Sept 18, 2011 5:44:27 GMT -5
Now, this is a very helpful post. Thanks for all that useful info. I sometimes wonder how the Chinese who drive these things as is are still alive or are now walking instead of riding. Jeez. I watched a video of riding in China, its got to be a short lived usage the way they drive.
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Post by vinozuma on Jan 23, 2012 4:00:11 GMT -5
Can I get a link for the petcock?
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Post by txtfamguy1 on Feb 3, 2012 14:35:56 GMT -5
This is something that has happened with two of my bikes, a 50cc and a 125cc. Get extra bolts and nuts for mounting your exhaust, both the Muffler Assembly AND Cylinder Head Exhaust Port studs. I had the muffler assembly bolt shear in half on one scoot and the exhaust port stud shear in half on the other scoot.
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Post by PasoDoble on Apr 6, 2012 21:48:40 GMT -5
my hopes are that there's some interest in this thread and it will stay on this page near the top for a while.........causing it to be read by every new/potential owner that comes here for the first time scanning the threads on the first page. Thanks Chris for this thread which I noticed originated back in 2008... wow, it has lived on and I've done my bit of advance shopping on parts very recently but perhaps not worthy of mention at the moment. Nonetheless, this thread is a good heads up for newbies to take note of and with the browsing ease using Google these days to shop around, it becomes a pleasure to do just that with good parts as opposed to the slow and sometimes idle, ignorant Staff behind the counter who knows lesser than the buyer. I'll be printing out yr checklist and see where or which can be best considered after consulting with my Dealer who btw, is VERY helpful and prepared to install or mount whatever I want him to do... with a sincere smile & service he is now known to provide. Thanks again for the list, and when R U returning to this thread with further helpful inputs???
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Post by mcallisterdu on Apr 9, 2012 11:17:20 GMT -5
Newb question:
Regarding the fuel/vacuum hose replacement... does the type of hose matter? Or just the size? I notice autozone carries both 1/4 & 3/16 rubber fuel hoses but not vacuum hoses.
Im assuming both types of hoses will work, regardless of the categorization by autozone... Is this true?
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Post by PasoDoble on Apr 9, 2012 11:21:17 GMT -5
I would recommend considering "certified gas hoses" be used. That way, nothing leaks or seeps through the walls...
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Post by ant707 on Jul 12, 2012 8:44:03 GMT -5
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Post by gy6fandan on Jul 16, 2012 2:30:41 GMT -5
Valves - check your valve clearance. Mine came with an exhaust valve almost closed. Ultimatly is closed all the way. Found some data on gy 125-150 scooters and valve issues per tech release. Was working on thread for the subject when I saw your thread and stoped to read it. Tech report is at : scooterbbs.net/board/DCForumID11/6779.html
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Post by alaney on Aug 2, 2012 22:43:48 GMT -5
A big thank you to everyone who has helped and posted tips here as soon I will be buying my 150 powermax
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Post by alaney on Aug 2, 2012 23:05:06 GMT -5
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Post by alaney on Aug 5, 2012 22:34:42 GMT -5
2. Replace all vacuum lines with goodyear 3/16
3. Replace all fuel lines with goodyear 1/4
Can someone please tell my how how much is needed so that i can prebuy it. thank you
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Post by riderboy on Aug 14, 2012 3:08:46 GMT -5
2. Replace all vacuum lines with goodyear 3/16 3. Replace all fuel lines with goodyear 1/4 Can someone please tell my how how much is needed so that i can prebuy it. thank you Go with 5 foot. You'll have extra if not buy more. 5 feet will get you started.
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Post by bloodymomo on Aug 14, 2012 5:07:32 GMT -5
Ok guys I found out my toens average is 630ft above sea level. What size jet am I going to need with my big bore kit?
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Post by jdawg32 on Aug 14, 2012 13:49:59 GMT -5
Question,
I bought a used 2006 150cc Tank Touring Scooter last month. It was riding perfect up until yesterday. I have read that I should change out a lot parts for it to be safe when riding but haven't gotten to replacing all yet. So far I changed Oil to mobil 1 full synthetic, Changed the gear oil to castrol 90w, put in a NGK Iridium plug.
What I have but haven't installed yet is a Uni air filter, High performance Coil. Can some one send me a link of what fuse to buy at auto zone? I read somewhere hear to get a 15amp blade fuse?
The scooter is starting to bog and the lights are flashing up and down as if its running out of power. Yesterday I was low on gas and it refused to start. I added some gas from my 5 gallon and it started right away. I then went to the gas station about 2 miles away and pump in premium gas. It refused to start and now the starter sounds like CRAP. I did remember reading somewhere that you should only try 3 times then let it rest for 10min before trying again. Long story short, I walked it 2 miles back home and now I have a bike that wont start.... Any Suggestions and help would be Fantastic. Thanks to all the Scooter Gurus out there for any advice.
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Post by scarlett on Aug 17, 2012 22:16:34 GMT -5
What a generous post! I'm sure that was really helpful to alot of people. Very kind of you!
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Post by Chi Makwa on Feb 9, 2013 1:47:05 GMT -5
Here's an action item that I think should be part of the initial teardown/PDI for new Chinese scoots that will be used or stored at or below freezing temperature - if there's actually a decent fix for it. Stock throttle cables are covered with thin, brittle plastic that cracks and crumbles when it gets below freezing. They need to be replaced or covered with something that can handle below freezing temperatures. Is there such a replacement available for the common Chinese scoots? Two years ago I could only find replacement cables with the same brittle plastic as the stock cables.
My throttle literally froze open on me one cold November morning. Made for a hectic experience... cold, frosty road surface, and a stuck throttle. I'd only been riding for 3 months at the time. It didn't happen when I set out either. It happened some 10 minutes into the ride, right around sunrise (or as I like to call it, bedtime). I'd been waiting for a red light, and I think that might have allowed part of the cable to warm up from the engine, just enough to melt some of the frost inside the cable. When I accelerated away from the intersection, I think the airflow re-froze the water in the cable, locking the throttle open.
I replaced the cable, but before I'd finished installing it (outside in the cold) I could feel the plastic on the new cable cracking too. Pieces of it broke away in my hands. So I took it inside & covered it with duct tape - one long piece, end to end, sealed as tightly as I could get it. It stayed adequately sealed through the winter, even with the cracking plastic inside. (In hindsight I think some sort of heat shrink tubing might have been a better fix.) I installed a 3rd cable (covered with duct tape) when it got warmer.
I thought that replacing the throttle cable would fix my problem, but it seems that the replacement parts were made out of the same crap plastic that the stock one was made of - probably from the same assembly line somewhere near Shanghai. Everything I found online was the same cheap price, so I assumed they were the same as the 3 I'd used. Ideally it would be nice if someone made higher quality replacement throttle cables. (A more flexible plastic isn't that much to ask, is it?) I've never had this problem on my Yamaha. (Of course it has that nice push-pull cable setup.)
If you live somewhere that has a winter, and you don't have heated storage for your scoot, you might want to address this issue either during PDI or sometime before the first frost. Even if you don't actually ride it in the cold, cracks and moisture in a throttle cable could cause corrosion, which can also make your day somewhat challenging.
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Post by ellpee on Feb 9, 2013 19:30:17 GMT -5
FWIW, the gear oil is definitely supposed to have BIG numbers in the 70+ range. Bigger the number the thicker the oil, generally speaking. All that stuff 50 and below is motor oil. I bought 75-90 synthetic at AutoZone, they had five or six different brands, so I'm astonished yours didn't. The one I bought says it's good for "GL-4 and GL-5" service, and I noticed while putting it in that there's a tiny sticker on the scoot saying to use GL-3, so I'm hoping 4 and 5 are newer, better evolutions of GL-3, which I didn't see on any of the bottles. Agree with Hotstang, oiler not needed as all the brands I saw came in a bottle with a pointy squirt cap and a see-thru place on the side to show you exactly how much you put in.
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Post by dawheelzdude on Feb 20, 2013 7:57:20 GMT -5
anyone know if we can get the same benefits installing these parts after already driving a Chinese scoot for ~1k miles?
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Post by Chi Makwa on Feb 25, 2013 16:51:55 GMT -5
anyone know if we can get the same benefits installing these parts after already driving a Chinese scoot for ~1k miles? Absolutely! In general, the parts listed are the parts most likely to fail. If they haven't failed yet, now's the time to act, especially if your scoot is running well.
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Post by jarlaxle on Feb 28, 2013 18:01:58 GMT -5
FWIW, the gear oil is definitely supposed to have BIG numbers in the 70+ range. Bigger the number the thicker the oil, generally speaking. All that stuff 50 and below is motor oil. I bought 75-90 synthetic at AutoZone, they had five or six different brands, so I'm astonished yours didn't. The one I bought says it's good for "GL-4 and GL-5" service, and I noticed while putting it in that there's a tiny sticker on the scoot saying to use GL-3, so I'm hoping 4 and 5 are newer, better evolutions of GL-3, which I didn't see on any of the bottles. Agree with Hotstang, oiler not needed as all the brands I saw came in a bottle with a pointy squirt cap and a see-thru place on the side to show you exactly how much you put in. GL-4 and GL-5 replaced GL-3...it's all backwards-compatible.
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