|
Post by gburch624 on Aug 29, 2008 0:45:56 GMT -5
I have a Motobravo/Leike 150cc scooter. Where can I get a valve cover gasket for it. My local dealers have never heard of it. I bought it on the internet. Thanks, Gary
|
|
|
Post by treesoup on Sept 7, 2008 23:55:11 GMT -5
As I am getting ready to retire and go on a fixed income, I want to squirrel away whatever is likely to be needed for my Lance GS-R 150 while I am still making money. I guess that would include all the parts at the top of this list (if they can be found), a CDI, a belt, a set of rollers, a fuel and air filter, some oil, spark plugs, etc. Any suggestions?
|
|
|
Post by hotstang46 on Sept 8, 2008 13:40:50 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by treesoup on Sept 9, 2008 6:50:15 GMT -5
About parts that should be put in 'reserve', in case of probable failure. Surely I have missed something.
|
|
|
Post by hotstang46 on Sept 9, 2008 18:06:28 GMT -5
you have everything covered and then some. I put this thread together with all the parts that I have personally seen/ or have observed from others have a repeated history of failure. I think at this point it is complete and not missing anything.
Buy a washable filter, never have to worry about replacing it. You don't need extra plugs, one ngk should be just fine. The CDI does not have documented history of repeated failure on a large number of bikes. You shouldn't need one. If you have a powerlink belt stock, which you might it will be good for a long while. Rollers, fine, they are cheap, they will go out of round...but even those I would just wait till you have a problem, they are good for a while.
|
|
|
Post by Kaos on Sept 21, 2008 19:53:05 GMT -5
I just (mostly) put together my new Chauanl LB150T-12 with the GY6 engine (shown in my avatar). Battery will be charged overnight and my parts list is ready. a few questions:
1)where do i get the carb jets from?
2) there is a vac hose hanging that comes from the bottom of the carb..where is it supposed to run to? thanks (forget #2, its the fuel drain duh)
|
|
|
Post by hotstang46 on Sept 23, 2008 16:26:00 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by hotstang46 on Sept 23, 2008 16:27:36 GMT -5
I wonder if someone could assist me. I am trying to replace my drive belt on a Chuanl 159cc Adventure. Some people have said replace it with a 842-20-30 and some have said replace it with a 835-20-30 as the 835 replaces the 842. Any suggestions as to brand and Kevlar or non kevlar. I thought there was a thread on this but I can't find it Thanks I'm sorry buddy, but this thread isn't the place for that question. Why don't you try starting a thread on the forum. chris
|
|
|
Post by nodestiny on Sept 24, 2008 22:00:20 GMT -5
I would like to add a few things on top of this list... 1. Replace the spark plug with an NGK c7hsa 2. Replace all vacuum lines with goodyear 3/16 3. Replace all feul lines with goodyear 1/4 4. Ditch the stock garbage fuel filter and replace with a Mr Gasket, found online or your local autozone. Don't forget to use some thread sealant when screwing on the 1/4 nipple store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1∂=MRG%2D9706&N=700+400330+4294852562+115&autoview=sku5. Remove the stock petcock and replace with this cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Parts-Unl....emZ360039304445IT WILL NOT FAIL 6. Replace the factory airbox and intake tube (prone to cracking causing vacuum issues) with a new pod filter 7. rejet the carb 38 slow and 122.5 main has worked great for me here at sea level.... it's a small keihin style jet for the main 8. Replace the main fuse off the positive battery with a new heavier duty one from autozone, but the same rating. The stocker I've seen corrode and lose a connection even though visibly it looked ok. 9. Should it be alarm/ electric start equiped, install a toggle on the power line....That way you control when it's active, I've seen these go haywire and cause a drain on the battery leaving it dead. 10. replace the stock rubber intake elbow (prone to cracking and not sealing properly on the head causing vacuum leaks) with a metal one similair to this!! store.scootertronics.com/mrpsp15chin.html ( you can find them on eBay cheaper) 11. Change all fluids. Bleed out brake fluid, use Dot3 or better, synthetic recommended. Change gear oil, synthetic recommended. Change the motor oil, but use regular off the shelf oil. 12. Change the valve stems on the wheels. Much like the rubber hose and all other cheap rubber, the valve stems are prone to dry out and crack. May get the wheel balanced while you're at it. My belt had a new gates belt, which was a bit surprising. Also, if the variator fan opening on the front of the CVT cover has a rubber "scoop" like mine did, again, you'll see it start to rot away. I simply cut out some metal screen material and clamped it on!
|
|
|
Post by gordo77 on Sept 25, 2008 19:48:59 GMT -5
I totally recommend all these upgrades, I had hesitation at higher rpms and a very rough idle, I did all those upgrades and my Sunl sl15012b sounds and feels a whole lot quicker
|
|
|
Post by jimmienwoods on Sept 26, 2008 14:31:02 GMT -5
I have a 2008 RoadRunner 150cc. I rode it in the other day, shut it off, and now it will not start. It turns over. It has gas. The plug sparks, but not too strong. Battery is charged. Any suggestions? You can contact me at jimmie_woods38@hotmail.com
Thanks
|
|
|
Post by pukame2 on Oct 12, 2008 16:12:24 GMT -5
Also, a note about spark plugs. First of all if you would like a really neat bit of info regarding spark plugs including a specific reference to the Iridium NGK plugs listed above check this out: www.willmannracingproducts.com/tech-2.htmlConsidering the fact that these scoots are known to run lean, I'm wondering if anyone has thought of running the CR8HIX instead of the CR7HIX? It's the same iridium plug, just with a cooler heat range. The reason I ask this is because as we all know, lean engines run hot and the CR8 plug may be able to dissipate more of that heat... anyone have any thoughts on this idea? I live at the 1000' level on the slopes of Haleakala and I tried the CR8HIX but since most of my traveling is short runs, I have since gone back to CR7HIX. My scoot likes the change and starts and runs better with the Iridium.
|
|
|
Post by greg on Oct 12, 2008 16:54:08 GMT -5
the reccommended intake elbow is 30-32mm but i dont plan on upgrading to the 30mm carb im stock. 150cc gy6 roketta catalina. question is will this elbow on the list fit on my stock bike(carb)? and i take it one end fits to the carb and the other goes to the stock air filter box? i just wanted to be 100% sure before i order it.
|
|
|
Post by harrywr2 on Oct 12, 2008 17:34:08 GMT -5
the reccommended intake elbow is 30-32mm but i dont plan on upgrading to the 30mm carb im stock. 150cc gy6 roketta catalina. question is will this elbow on the list fit on my stock bike(carb)? and i take it one end fits to the carb and the other goes to the stock air filter box? i just wanted to be 100% sure before i order it. You need the upgraded intake manifold if you are going to the Uni pod filter. The airbox holds up one end of the carb and the intake manifold holds up the other end. If you take out the stock airbox the carb is flopping around on one side which will crack the rubber intake manifold. It might crack anyway...but with a Uni Pod filter it is pretty much a sure bet.
|
|
|
Post by diamoroller on Oct 20, 2008 20:16:00 GMT -5
I did number 9 - mounted a toggle switch on the power line of the Keyless Go - Alarm. Mostly because I got sick of the Alarm chirping three times every time I turned the ignition off.
|
|
jakeiv
Big Dawg
50cc guy 'til 2008
Posts: 21
|
Post by jakeiv on Nov 9, 2008 14:24:57 GMT -5
I seem to be getting a little frustrated now, being such a dummy at this. I can find one part here, one part there, one fluid here, and each with shipping of $8 or more. And the local auto & warehouse stores just gave me a blank look for everything on my list. So so far I'm probably getting (and I'm not sure I've even picked out the right things): A HALOGEN BULB H-4 12V 35/35W (headlight) 48220~ - from Amazon $14 A 6oz Pistol Oiler - from Amazon $9 A NGK C7HSA Standard Spark Plug - from Amazon, or an Iridium one from Scootertronics $16 Fuel Shut-Off Valve Fits 1/4" Fuel Line, from Ebay $12 Oil Pan - from Amazon $12 I'm very lost as to what Antifreeze to get. "Formulated for Aluminum engines" seems to be a hard phrase to find online, and doesn't seem to be at the auto store or Walmart. I'm also very confused about the gear oil. My manual and the other brand manuals (same model, different name) all say GT or 10 weight. Which I think doesn't exist, and one forum said it was a typo to get 15 weight or something. I'm so confused! Oh, and I don't even know where to start to find a source for fuel filter, vacuum line, gas lines, airbox, and intake tubes. I asked for a 7amp fuse and the auto store gave me 7.5 amp. I'm thinking that's probably not good. And I've completely given up on 12V7Ah batteries, since they seem to come in all different sizes and wet or dry - and given my first time putting acid into a battery is when I got the scooter, I'm not sure what I would want to get next. I'm trying to take it one step at a time, but I'm starting to realize it may be hopeless for me. Maybe this will help - Walmart has the battery and almost everything else, including tools. Advance Auto has the iridium spark plug - order it by number, the hoses are also available from Advance Auto - plus NAPA, AutoZone, PepBoys and Kragen. The light bulbs are another story. Stick with the recommended dealers on Scootdawg's home pages.
|
|
|
Post by stevthac1969 on Nov 14, 2008 1:12:26 GMT -5
Hi, I'm a newbie to the board so I apologize for any ignorance I'm showing here. Thanks for these great suggestions. I had no problem with the sparkplug!! With regards to the vacuum lines and fuel lines, is there a picture or diagram or any way of figuring out which line is which? I'd love a great detailed photo or diagram of this part of the engine. The GY6 manual is very hard to find specific locations of parts. Any tips about replacing these lines would be great!
Thanks for your help.
|
|
|
Post by wf1761 on Jan 21, 2009 17:06:29 GMT -5
You will need a vacuum line tee for your fuel line in case it developes a crack. Carry it along in your tool kit just in case. I had to call a wrecker service because mine had a crack in it. Too much air was leaking into the system it would not start. A pair of pliers would help also.
|
|
|
Post by coolsoupy on Feb 11, 2009 1:32:54 GMT -5
Hi! I have a 150cc that has run off and on for about 3K. I developed a problem recently that it dies when hot. I changed most all the parts above plus the carb, vacuum valve and CDI. It still stalls after about 3 miles. I suspect that it is a fuel vacuum problem. I am eliminating the cheap vacuum lines and "t" arrangement and adding a shutoff fuel valve to see if that cures the problem. I notice that the fuel filter always has a pea size air bubble in it?
Anyone have any ideas?
CoolSoupy nmcampbell1@satx.rr.com
|
|
|
Post by brian8474 on Mar 2, 2009 15:44:08 GMT -5
Excellent Post.I just joined these forums because i purchased a Longbo150T-12 Scooter and i am trying to familiarize myself with all of the things i may have problems with being it is a chinese scooter.I have not done any of these things yet and i have 75 miles on it so far.But i have noticed the Battery went dead twice for no reason.So i am off to the autoparts store for a kill switch and Fuel filter to start.Thanks for all your input!!
Brian
|
|
|
Post by YellowScooter on Mar 19, 2009 14:54:11 GMT -5
Gator, Any fuel filter that will fit the hose, will work fine on your scooter. All it has to do is flow gas. I got my fuel and vacuum lines from Ace Hardware. I got the clear hoses rated for gas and vacuum applications. It's been 3months now. They haven't gone soft on me yet. What's nice is I can actually see the fuel flow. The best thing you can do for your scooter is take the chinese translated joke of a manual, throw it in the garbage compactor and don't look back. The information is to say the least, inaccurate. There is a full scooter manual available here. In english, by knowlegable dawgs. Where you don't have to try and make sense of phrases like: "forbid operating throttle in a speedily manner while in a curve to avoid certain catastrophe to the forsaken tires!" Really, try not to percieve scooter maintenance to be any harder than it truly is. Not everything has to be "scooter certified". These bikes are really not that sensitive when it comes to oils and hoses. Castrol 80w90 gear oil is perfect. As well as Syntec 10/40 in the engine. .
|
|
|
Post by wayneb on Apr 26, 2009 21:36:43 GMT -5
2. Replace all vacuum lines with goodyear 3/16 3. Replace all feul lines with goodyear 1/4 This may seem like a dumb question, but is the 3/16 and 1/4 ID or OD? I'm thinking ID, but then I've seen a site that has these sizes in OD also, so I'm not sure.
|
|
|
Post by cruiser66 on Apr 26, 2009 23:00:10 GMT -5
These measurements are ID and welcome to ScootDawg.
66
|
|
|
Post by cruiser66 on Apr 26, 2009 23:07:27 GMT -5
Hi! I have a 150cc that has run off and on for about 3K. I developed a problem recently that it dies when hot. I changed most all the parts above plus the carb, vacuum valve and CDI. It still stalls after about 3 miles. I suspect that it is a fuel vacuum problem. I am eliminating the cheap vacuum lines and "t" arrangement and adding a shutoff fuel valve to see if that cures the problem. I notice that the fuel filter always has a pea size air bubble in it? Anyone have any ideas? CoolSoupy nmcampbell1@satx.rr.com Welcome to ScootDawg! The air bubble in the fuel filter is normal. Have you ever adjusted the valves? You have eliminated a lot of the potential problems. Tight valves can cause a similar problem. 66
|
|
|
Post by endeveroux on Apr 30, 2009 9:25:59 GMT -5
I totally recommend all these upgrades, I had hesitation at higher rpms and a very rough idle, I did all those upgrades and my Sunl sl15012b sounds and feels a whole lot quicker so how much did it cost you for all these upgrades?
|
|
|
Post by terrans on May 30, 2009 18:46:47 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by Vento150 on May 30, 2009 18:57:42 GMT -5
fuel injection hose is hugh pressure fuel line, it will work, it worked for me. as far as the fuel filter, i would NEVER use a glass filter for gasoline....one good bump, the glass breaks and there goes all your gas all over your hot engine. a $4 dollar plastic one works just fine.
|
|
|
Post by socialenemy2007 on Jul 7, 2009 20:09:32 GMT -5
does someone have the big guys PDI saved because the website isnt working anymore. also the GY6 manual on scoot dog the link is down. does somebody have it saved and can post a link for it? thanks. Just bought a Lance gsR 150 at a local B&M store and want to set it up right.
|
|
|
Post by madmanjustice on Jul 9, 2009 13:40:42 GMT -5
does someone have the big guys PDI saved because the website isnt working anymore. also the GY6 manual on scoot dog the link is down. does somebody have it saved and can post a link for it? thanks. Just bought a Lance gsR 150 at a local B&M store and want to set it up right. the website is fine..link is here x1scooters.com/scooterpdi.html
|
|
|
Post by YellowScooter on Aug 3, 2009 11:22:20 GMT -5
I'd also suggest if at all possible, do yourself a favor, and get a stainless hi flow exhaust. It'll add to the effectiveness of the pod filter, you shouldn't need to rejet again, in most cases, and being stainless, it woun't rust, fatigue, and break like the stock exhaust have been known to do.
|
|