New Scooter?? ORDER THESE PARTS BEFORE IT ARRIVES

[bkbroiler]

Jul 11, 2008 22:21:46 GMT -5 hotstang46 said:

wow, a man of few words. Way to bump yourself!

[hotstang46]

hey people need to see this...I don't know why there wouldn't be a sticky at top with this info in huge letters. This poor womens thread on the first page and her nightmare are just further evidence that people don't know what they're getting into with these things. As most of us board members know, they can be good bikes with tweaking. Hopefully this will save some poor people some major heat ache, and help those with the mechanical knowledge to sort their bike.

I WILL KEEP BUMPING THIS UNTIL HOPEFULLY THE POWERS THAT BE CAN POST SOMETHING LIKE WHAT I HAVE AND MAKE A STICKY!!

[goblue62577]

According to Big Guys PDI, an update indicating fuel lines in 2008 models shouldn't need replacing was posted on 7/10. Anyone else hear this? Thanks.

[sicily150]

This is all good info but its not advised to run full synthetic oil in the engine until you have several thousand miles on the engine. Many scooter experts state that Chevron Delo 15W-40 is one of the better if not the best for the GY6 engine due to the fact that it still has moly in it. The metallurgy of the Chinese (cloned) GY6 is very light and requires prime lubrication to reduce heat and wear. I've been using it in mine and its produced great results.

[sicily150]

Also another suggestion is to remove the emission hoses and emission filter (valve) and plug the ports where they're connected. All they do is get in the way and once removed they free up extra space. If you remove the emissions valve and open it, you'll then see what I'm talking about. Its cheaply made and can cause problems in the short haul. Since i've removed mine, the engine runs the same as well as providing more vacuum for whats necessary.

[wildbill]

hey,I guess if you have unlimited funds,you can prepurchse all of this and not wait for it to fail.Ihave my Lance 150 GS-R for 14 months now and I havent replaced anything in hoses except the intake hose had several cracks in the bend. No fuses blew although an extra fuse is next to the existing one in cased.plug is firing and Iam going through the bike after this length of time and will be replacing whatever is NECESSARY only. no bulbs burned out. I took it apart to check on things and to find out what makes it tick.It's enjoyment for me not at all unpleasant. I did take two courses at university of arkansas on air cooled engines such as lawnmowers and sech and one course on marine engines.it cost $180 for 3 courses, met at night for 4 hours for each period for several weeks. a lot of colleges offer courses at night and we had students aged from 18 to 80.The ZNEN factory apparently uses better material than some of your other makes. wildbill

[goblue62577]

I found www.summitracing.com has most of the things needed for PDI. They have Goodyear lines and Mr. Gasket fuel filters in stock.

[jspringator]

Jul 13, 2008 20:08:08 GMT -5 @sicily150 said:

Also another suggestion is to remove the emission hoses and emission filter (valve) and plug the ports where they're connected. All they do is get in the way and once removed they free up extra space. If you remove the emissions valve and open it, you'll then see what I'm talking about. Its cheaply made and can cause problems in the short haul. Since i've removed mine, the engine runs the same as well as providing more vacuum for whats necessary.

Could you be more specific? What is the emissions valve? Picture?

[hotstang46]

Jul 16, 2008 14:46:29 GMT -5 wildbill said:

hey,I guess if you have unlimited funds,you can prepurchse all of this and not wait for it to fail.Ihave my Lance 150 GS-R for 14 months now and I havent replaced anything in hoses except the intake hose had several cracks in the bend. No fuses blew although an extra fuse is next to the existing one in cased.plug is firing and Iam going through the bike after this length of time and will be replacing whatever is NECESSARY only. no bulbs burned out. I took it apart to check on things and to find out what makes it tick.It's enjoyment for me not at all unpleasant. I did take two courses at university of arkansas on air cooled engines such as lawnmowers and sech and one course on marine engines.it cost $180 for 3 courses, met at night for 4 hours for each period for several weeks. a lot of colleges offer courses at night and we had students aged from 18 to 80.The ZNEN factory apparently uses better material than some of your other makes. wildbill

If you have something that is problematic and has a documented history of failure, waiting for it go is not the best approach. It may even end up costing you more than the price of the part itself by incovenience and the time spent being stranded somewhere. I'm glad that you haven't had anything go wrong, but your experience is not most peoples. Haven't you seen all the posts on here? It's non stop issues, the same one's, and easily correctable.

It is better to be pro active when it costs are minimal (under $100) and takes little more than a days time fiddling and having a beer or two!

[hotstang46]

Jul 17, 2008 12:34:06 GMT -5 jspringator said:

Jul 13, 2008 20:08:08 GMT -5 @sicily150 said:

Also another suggestion is to remove the emission hoses and emission filter (valve) and plug the ports where they're connected. All they do is get in the way and once removed they free up extra space. If you remove the emissions valve and open it, you'll then see what I'm talking about. Its cheaply made and can cause problems in the short haul. Since i've removed mine, the engine runs the same as well as providing more vacuum for whats necessary.

Could you be more specific? What is the emissions valve? Picture?

look at these two pics, you can easily see all the stuff I've yanked to clean things up a bit!!

[fegan3]

Hi, If I use the Mr Gasket fuel filter on my 150cc gy6 instead of a new stock filter, will I have to change anything else?

[rapidjim]

This is an excellant post! The areas covered are actually ares we have had some problems with. Sense we are a Roketa Dealer and have sold over 50 scooters in less than 3 months, we have been able to see what the downfalls and upshots are with this brand of scooter. Over all, it is great out of the box. Now after saying that, before we place a scoot on the lot for sale, we change all the fuel lines and the fuel filter, this is due to the lines and filters being inferior to what is sold here in the US. We also check all ground points to make sure that they are tight and making good contact. We change the oil right away and replace it with Valvoline 10W40, we also inform the new owner to change it again after 200 miles of operation, either by us or them. We also change to fuse holders with inline ATO holders, the 250 cc models alreay use an ATO fuse block,this is a personal thing with me, I have seen to many of the round plastic fuse holders collecting water and corroding. All our bikes are run up in the shop and then test driven and adjust the carb if neccessary. It is a good idea to have spare headlight bulbs in your tool box, this is mainly due to the fact that most parts stores, ( esp in this area) don't carry them.

As I said this is a great post.

Happy Scooting!

Jim/Owner
Rapid Repair

[mttravler]

Hey L8rgator, Have you tried a NAPA store. They can usually get almost anything in the way of filters, fuel and vacuum lines,plugs etc. I have occaisionally used fuel line in place of vacuum line as long as it is tight and well clamped, it works fine. On my JmStar 150(150T-19) I used Advance Auto fuel lines and Wurth brand (2.5mm?) braided line for the small vacuum lines. A foriegn/german car shop would have it. As for as the battery I would run with it until it fails which may not be long but likely for sure in cold weather. Any 12v lead/acid battery that has the same configuration of the terminals, is at least 7ah, and will reasonably fit in the battery box will work fine in your scoot if you can't find the exact same one
Also, I am not familiar with a china 150cc that requires antifreeze. Most are g6y engines and are air cooled. Did I miss one varient or something? Just a thought, but maybe you dont need antifreeze.
Chris

[jdog]

I recently purchased a QLink Achilles very slightly used. Despite having only 200km on the odometer, the rear mount to the factory air box is already broken. Forgive my ignorance, I'm a handy enough guy, but new to scooter ownership and maintenance. Will any of these after market cone or "Pod" filters fit my scoot, or do I need a specific one? If you guys have one you particularly like or recommend, please help a poor newbie out.

[deccasmooth]

It's a good idea to pack the front wheel bearings with grease as well.

[r0b]

What gap does that plug need?

[hotstang46]

ROB...if it's the ngk I recommend, it's pre gapped, no worries.


GOBLUE62577 - I just bought an 08 and upgraded immediately, it's really cheap ($5?) and not hard to do anway, I coudln't see any visible difference between the 08 hoses and 07. Other than the 08 hoses had some off brand keihin marking if memory serves.

FEGAN3 - You can put on the MR GASKET fuel filter and nothing else, but, I would HIGHLY recomend upgrading the fuel line to 1/4 at the same time, you'll be half way done doing the filter and cutting the lines anyways.

JDOG- This is a good ebay seller, it's who I go through, and he has pretty much the best price I've found....it's the best filter in my opinion as well..... cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-5-INCH-UNI-UNIVERSAL-OFFROAD-SCOOTER-FILTER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1713Q2em153Q2el1262QQcategoryZ35597QQihZ010QQitemZ200240800068QQtcZphoto

Here's a pic of the intake I do on my bikes....I use part of the stock hose, take thet part that cuts off the carb and when it hits a 90 degree bend cut it. Go to the hardware store, there you can find a 2in long pvc piece to clamp the filter and the intake tube to.

When done it will look something like this....

[ILScooterdude]

Hey guys this is a good board. I have one question. I just bought a Qlink Pegasus 150cc on 7/19. I now have close to 300 miles on it and haven't done anything to it YET. It seams to have a buck, cutout, or dead spot (what ever you call it) between 10 and 15 mpg. It doesn;t matter if it is warn or not. Matter of fact I notice it more when I come back from a 10 mile or more run. Has anyone out there got any Ideas. My friends 2007 Pegasus the same thing. Dealer thinks it in the carb. We don;t think so

[tteti]

Pardon my inexperience or ignorance, but where is the spark Plug, I have a Chuanl 150cc limited edition Adventure scooter with only 100 miles on it and have been following these posts., and I can't locate the plug, I have an acces panel under the seat and another one infront of the seat on the lower part looked into both but can't discern a spark plug. If anyone could advise I would appreciate it

[scootdoggydog]

Aug 10, 2008 11:50:28 GMT -5 tteti said:

Pardon my inexperience or ignorance, but where is the spark Plug, I have a Chuanl 150cc limited edition Adventure scooter with only 100 miles on it and have been following these posts., and I can't locate the plug, I have an acces panel under the seat and another one infront of the seat on the lower part looked into both but can't discern a spark plug. If anyone could advise I would appreciate it

if you look in the one in front of the seat you should see something that looks like this

that is the spark plug cap pull it off and there it is

[tteti]

Thanks a lot I will take a look, this board is great

[bilbo55scootin]

THE JET ON MY CARB IS SMALLER THAN 1/4 INCH SHOULD I use 3/16 fuel line so it don't leak?

[booradley]

Excellent info.
I threw you a bone, hotstang.

[scootermcgee]

i am going to do the air pod thing and I was wondering if 130 jets would be too much? I live in TN, and have no idea how close i am to sea level. looked online on scootertronics and all they had were 115 and 130. any advice is appreciated! thanks guys!

[jakeiv]

Just a quick word to the wise. These bikes run lean in order to meet EPA and CARB requirements. If you pull and plug the emission lines and go to the pod air filters you may not pass emissions testing and will be required to replace all missing original equipment before you can renew your plates! If you are not subject to emission testing go ahead. My new (300 miles) BMS150 (the heaviest 150 ZNEN makes) passes emissions, top speed of 54mph (radar clock measured flat and level) and gets 80.1 mpg on 87 octane (US which is 91 octane Eruope or China). The MRP exhaust plus the MRP9000 CDI with the DR Pulley or MRP variator kit should kick it up to 60 or 65 mph and still pass emissions. Frankly, these changes would make my 150 costs about the same as a TBS260 - not very cost effective. But I might consider selling my bug free TBS 150 and putting the upgrade money in and buying a 260.

[projectmayhem]

Thanks for this great post, great job everyone, I wish I had it 6 months ago when I first bought my cheap scooter, all of the above things that could have been modified or bought first; were eventual problems and headaches that I had to learn the hard way before I began researching these forums and resources. Better late than never.

[cafengocmy]

I am a newbie with a 150 SUNL. I don't know enough to find some things you mention in your list such as the air filter pod and jets. What I need most to find, I guess, is a manual that has the basic stuff in it like how to get at things. I got this thing solely because of the price of gas and a commute that was nothing at $1.50 a gallon but has become awfully long at $4.00.

[greg]

all the info you need is here. learn to navigate the forums and learn. ive learned alot here in just a weeks time!

[jdog]

Chris (Hotstang46),

I got the filter you suggested, and got brave today and started taking my QLink Achilles apart. When I got to the engine I noticed that the intake structure (manifold?) does not look like the one of which you posted pictures. BTW, thanks for posting those; they are most instructive. Mine has at least two vacuum hoses connected, one after the 90 deg bend (right before it goes into the factory filter housing). Your pics show no vacuum hoses. Am I correct in understanding that my scoot will not run without those vacuum connections? Does that mean I need to cut my air intake manifold out past that last vacuum line connection?

If anybody would tell me how to include pictures, I would post a picture of my intake structure, so you could see what I mean.

Thanks,

Jason

[hotstang46]

Jason,

The two lines I'm assuming you are referring to are...

1. The one going from the intake tube to a little black canister with other hoses coming off of it right? For that one, I cut the hose to about two inches in length where it comes off of the black canister. I then folded it in half and threw a zip tie or two around it to seal it shut. Use the portion of intake tube that does not have the nipple for that hose on it. It's just flat out not needed. If you have the differnt style intake tube (i believe the one that comes on the bikes with the air filter housing near the rear tire......go to the hardware store. You whould be able to make your own with some flexible tubing. I would head right to the plumbing section for all necessary items.

2. The other line I'm assuming you're talking about is the one going from the factory air box to the head on the engine. That is an oil overflow line. It will have maybe a drop or two of oil come out every once in a while under normal circumstances. My cheap easy solution was to take a small bottled water container and cut it way down in size. Cut about four inches of the center of the bottle out and then slip the two ends over one another and use some electrical tape or something to hold them together. Drill a hole in the cap about the size of the line you need to run through it. There is then a nice tidy place on the frame to bungy the bottle that will be out of sight from the exterior yet easy to see when you lift your seat to monitor if there is oil in htere or not.

SEE THESE PICS......and let me know if these are the lines you are referring to.