|
Post by breeze785 on Feb 15, 2013 14:27:12 GMT -5
I have a 2008 houwhin eagle 50cc gy6.
It was wrecked in the front (still ran fine) about a year and a half ago and sat in a garage from then until recently as I didn't have the time or recources to fix it.
Well I got the front end all fixed up and I'm having trouble getting the engine back in running shape. It will start and idle. The idle is rough but I can get it to idle well only by loosening the mixture screw all the way out (on the verge of falling off) if I give it throttle it will make a choking sound and die. I can give it throttle VERY slowly and it will pick up a little, then choke out again once I get on the throttle. If I let the throttle go it will pick back up and stay running at idle for just a bit, then slow to a sputter and die. It will start right back up and idle right afterwards tho.
Drained the fuel tank and put in new gas, new fuel filter, took the carb apart and sprayed a can of carb cleaner thru all the little holes and stuck craft wire/tiny safety pin thru them. Took the jets out and soaked them in the carb cleaner for a bit and went over them with the craft wire. Checked the plug it has a good spark. Doesn't seem to make much difference running with the air box on or off.
I got it going good enough to take around the block yesterday but as soon as it got back down to idle speed it died. I also put some carb cleaner in the gas tank.
Please help I've been all over every forum!
|
|
|
Post by edfr on Feb 15, 2013 14:35:50 GMT -5
First thing adjust your valves so that they are opening the right amount for air and fuel and not tight and looseing compression. Lefty
|
|
|
Post by breeze785 on Feb 15, 2013 14:44:34 GMT -5
Never done that before. I'll google it and post my results
|
|
|
Post by edfr on Feb 15, 2013 15:21:29 GMT -5
Here is a Video first time will take you longer but after that 1-2-3 the hardest part is getting to them and taking the bolts off the valve cover(HAHA). Now remember DO NOT CRANK really hard on the LOCKING NUT Just nice and TIGHT otherwise you will strip it.
Set them both to .004 inchs. If after they CLATTER pretty LOUD then go back and set them to .003 inchs or you can just set them to .003 inchs to begin with. We say .004 to lengthen the time between the next adjustment if necessary.
TICKY TICKY from them after you adjust them is good. Lefty
|
|
|
Post by breeze785 on Feb 15, 2013 15:39:43 GMT -5
What's the link?
|
|
|
Post by edfr on Feb 15, 2013 15:49:25 GMT -5
Just click where it says youTUBE right bottom of the Video, the Video will come up and you will see the link. Lefty
|
|
|
Post by breeze785 on Feb 15, 2013 16:02:36 GMT -5
Ok ill track down a feeler gauge and post my results
|
|
|
Post by breeze785 on Feb 15, 2013 16:16:17 GMT -5
I took the valve cover off and just by looking at it the valves look way off from .003 inches so I'm feeling hopeful. I'll update when I get them adjusted
|
|
|
Post by breeze785 on Feb 15, 2013 18:53:19 GMT -5
So I bought a feeler gauge and set both of the valves to .003 put it back together and they do chatter loudly but the problem seems much better. Should I try .002 or go up to .004
|
|
|
Post by breeze785 on Feb 15, 2013 20:48:47 GMT -5
Alright I think I'm fixing it! Or at least stepping in the right direction. Thank you so much edfr you got me rolling again. Now my scoot is idling really strong and I can rev her up and throttle response is good returns to idle fine. So I threw the seat on and took it around the block. It's running real strong and accelerates fine through low to medium throttle. But when I go full throttle it bogs down and wants to die again.
|
|
|
Post by edfr on Feb 15, 2013 20:56:33 GMT -5
FANTASTIC GOOD JOB MY MAN!! Ok try this old trick of the trade to let you know what the motor needs. Bring it up to speed and WHEN IT STARTS TO ACT UP, BACK OFF THE THROTTLE ABOUT 1/4 of an INCH and HOLD IT THERE. A. If it SPEEDS UP it is LEAN and needs more fuel. B. If it stumbles and pisses and farts BUT SETTLES DOWN it is RICH. ;D Get back with how it acted. Lefty
|
|
|
Post by breeze785 on Feb 15, 2013 22:16:07 GMT -5
Alright it just started snowing here so ill see how the weather is tomorrow and get back to you
|
|
|
Post by edfr on Feb 15, 2013 22:20:42 GMT -5
SNOWING!! Well you be carefull make sure the roads are dry Lefty
|
|
|
Post by breeze785 on Feb 15, 2013 23:27:18 GMT -5
Yup that's Kansas for ya lol
|
|
|
Post by thewizard13 on Feb 16, 2013 9:29:34 GMT -5
Sounds like the issue that I was having with my scooter. I had the carb cleaned, replaced the filter, emptied the gas tank and yet still had the same problem. I adjusted the idle to a little higher setting to compensate for the amount of air/gas mixture allowed and mine started running fine. Does it start bogging immediately or does it give any indication that its getting ready to do it? My scooter would start making motions like it was running out of gas and then it would do the whole WAAAAA and bogg out, even with a full tank of brand new gas. Checked the plug and it was fine also. Like I said I turned up the idle, barely, and it seems to be running fine for the moment. Not that I am a mechanic, far from it, but that's whats gotten mine back on the road. Also look through the forum I posted, labled "scooter bogging problem" and there might be something from the guys that posted on mine that might help you out.
|
|
|
Post by edfr on Feb 16, 2013 13:19:29 GMT -5
His problem idleing and bogging at low rpms is fixed his current problem is only now at Wide Open Throttle. Lefty
|
|
|
Post by breeze785 on Feb 16, 2013 17:30:04 GMT -5
Ok so I got to my scoot today, the roads are a little wet but fine for light riding. It's pretty cold around 32 degrees today, but she started right up second kick (always was a beast starting cold). I let her warm up a bit and drove a few blocks to my house. Still real strong in the low powerband but when I get up to WOT it Boggs down and tries to die.
Did what you said lefty and let off the throttle about a quarter inch and it speeds right back up to about where it was with no pissing or farting. From this point I can increase throttle very very slowly and make it up to WOT without bogging but it still doesn't seem to be at full power
|
|
|
Post by jamo5280 on Feb 16, 2013 20:22:52 GMT -5
Alright breeze I believe you and I are having the same problem. I adjusted my valves today and it made a big difference in starting and idling. When you run it on the center stand are you having a yo yo type throttle response? Mine seems to be fine for one "rev" cycle then bogs down. Next one powers up and really starts screaming good, then bogs down again. Just seeing if we have the same symptoms so we can figure this out together with the help of others on here.
|
|
|
Post by breeze785 on Feb 17, 2013 13:48:11 GMT -5
It was doing that until I adjusted my valves. They are both at .003 and it runs pretty steady now
|
|
|
Post by edfr on Feb 17, 2013 14:30:26 GMT -5
Good job Breeze785, Now we know that it needs more fuel at high rpms it is running lean at WOT. Since the test made it SPEED up and running good just by backing off the throttle about a 1/4 of an inch your rubber diaphgram is good and is holding and not leaking. First thing to check is the AIR FILTER side of the carb for any extra holes or little rips or bad connections that may allow a little more air in which in this case you do not want.
If all that is good then RE- Check your Fuel Ratio Mixture, reason I say this is because before all this it was running good either last year or months ago.
So First try to solve the problem with the Fuel Ratio Mixture and if it still hangs up at WOT then you will have to get a little bigger Main Jet but only 1 or 2 sizes bigger than what is on there. Lefty Follow this procedure to tune the carb: Take your time 1/4 turn to much in either direction makes a big difference.
ADJUSTING YOUR FUEL RATIO MIXTURE:
YOU WANT THE HIGHEST RPMS OUT OF THE AIR RATIO MIXTURE SCREW:
Start your scoot and Get The Engine Nice and Hot about 5 minutes so that the Enricher IF it has one is no longer Allowing Extra Fuel to come in. Then do the following to fine tune the Fuel Ratio Mixture:
[red]Follow this procedure to tune the carb: Take your time 1/4 turn to much in either direction makes a big difference.[/red]
ADJUSTING YOUR FUEL RATIO MIXTURE:
[red]YOU WANT THE HIGHEST RPMS OUT OF THE AIR RATIO MIXTURE SCREW:[/red]
Start your scoot and Get The Engine Nice and Hot about 5 minutes so that the Enricher IF it has one is no longer Allowing Extra Fuel to come in. Then do the following to fine tune the Fuel Ratio Mixture:
[blue]FUEL RATIO SCREW:[/blue]
FIRST TRY RICHENNG THE FUEL MIXTURE FROM ITS CURRENT SETTING:
1. [red]RICHEN THE FUEL RATIO MIXTURE:[/red]
Turn the Fuel Mixture Screw COUNTER CLOCKWISE 1/4 of a turn and wait 10 seconds to let the engine catch up with the new setting.
a. If the RPMS go up REPEAT #1 UNTIL the RPMS GO DOWN OR NO CHANGE(then go to b).
b. TURN the Fuel Ratio Mixture Screw CLOCKWISE 1/8 and that should be your highest Fuel Ratio Mixture setting—GO TO #3.
[green]******[/green]If on the FIRST 1/4 TURN from the STARTING Position IN #1 ABOVE the RPMS GO DOWN OR NO CHANGE , turn the Fuel Ratio Mixture Screw Back the 1/4 turn to the Starting position and wait 10 seconds until the engine catches up -- GO TO #2[green] ******[/green]
2.[red]LEAN THE FUEL RATIO MIXTURE:[/red]
Turn the Fuel Mixture Screw CLOCKWISE 1/4 of a turn and wait 10 seconds to let the engine catch up with the new setting.
a. If the RPMS go up REPEAT #2 UNTIL the RPMS GO DOWN OR NO CHANGE(then go to b).
b. TURN the Fuel Mixture Screw COUNTER CLOCKWISE 1/8 and that should be your highest Fuel Ratio Mixture setting—GO TO #3.
[red]IF YOU GOT TO THIS POINT AND NOT INSTRUCTED TO GO TO #3 THAT MEANS THERE WAS NO CHANGE IN RPMS FROM DOING #1 or #2 ABOVE, IT IS TIME TO CLEAN THE CARB: YOU NEED TO CLEAN YOUR PILOT JET AND PASSAGE AND AIR PASSAGES AND THEN START FROM #1 AGAIN.[/red]
3. [blue]IDLE SPEED SCREW:[/blue]
The Idle Speed Screw on a Carb that are on most 4Ts you will find on the right side on the THROTTLE CONTROL WHEEL. It is the screw with a SPRING on it. To Lower the IDLE you turn it COUNTER CLOCKWISE to Raise the IDLE you turn it CLOCKWISE.
If after adjusting your Fuel Ratio Mixture your idle is to fast Turn the IDLE SPEED SCREW COUNTER CLOCKWISE. For the 50s-150s they like to idle around 1500-1800rpms, for the 250s+ they like to idle from 1800-2000 rpms, pick the smoothest idle with the rear wheel not spinning ---GO TO #4.
4. [blue]TEST YOUR ADJUSTMENTS:[/blue]
Now give the Throttle a QUICK twist and the RPMS should climb up quickly without hesitation or bogging and come down to where you set your Idle at---GO TO #5.
5. NOW take a ride and try it out, the Fuel Ratio mixture may need a tweak in either direction now that the motor has a load on it.
The tweak will be minor maybe a ¼ turn richer or leaner IF it acts up with a load---GO TO #6
6. When it acts up BACK OFF the throttle about ¼ of an INCH AND HOLD IT THERE:
a. If the motor speeds up it is LEAN you need to richen it up a little.
b. If the motor settles down and or stumbles and then settles down it is RICH you need to LEAN it out a little. GO TO #5 AGAIN.
[blue]Problems with the IDLE:[/blue]
1. Give the throttle a quick twist:
A. If the rpms drop below idle speed, then recovers (or stalls), it is RICH —Turn the Fuel Mixture Screw Clockwise ¼ turns at a time and go to #1.
B. If the rpms do not drop quickly to the idle speed but hang and drop slowly it is LEAN —Turn the Fuel Mixture Screw Counter Clockwise ¼ turns at a time and go to #1.
|
|
|
Post by breeze785 on Feb 17, 2013 14:46:34 GMT -5
I adjusted the valves again just to try to find a sweet spot. Both at :002 and it is running better with more power but still the same problem. Already has a bigger main jet, I don't remember if its 80 or 81. The airbox is in pretty rough shape, it got cracked up in the wreck pretty bad. I don't have the money for a new one at the moment so I just took it off and patched everything up with duct tape. A janky temporary fix I know but it doesn't leak lol.
With it running tho if I put my hand down around the the carb I can kinda feel some air movement maybe a leak but I can't tell where its coming from.
Also unrelated to this thread but my front disc break no longer works. Never disconnected it when I fixed the front end. Hmm??
|
|
|
Post by edfr on Feb 17, 2013 15:12:45 GMT -5
You will feel air when running there the fan on the flywheel is pushing air under the shroud and there is a outlet right by the carb to cool the carb bowl.
Well it could be leaking and sucking in some extra air once you crank up going fast since the airbox is all patched up. Lefty
|
|
|
Post by breeze785 on Feb 17, 2013 15:14:48 GMT -5
Alright scratch that. I decided to run a test to see if my air box was leaking. Put some masking tape over the intake hose for the airbox and BAM. Runs like a champ! Going beast mode on WOT! thanks so much lefty!! I owe you one. Now to get a new airbox and fix my breaks ill be scootin again just in time for spring.
|
|
|
Post by edfr on Feb 17, 2013 15:22:07 GMT -5
FANTASTIC!! Ride safe and save your money for a new airbox Lefty
|
|
|
Post by edfr on Feb 17, 2013 15:26:15 GMT -5
Do you have pressure when you squeeze the handle? Did you check if the resovier has brake fluid or is maybe low. Squeeze the handle and watch the pads see if they move out they may be stuck or rusted and binding not extending out. Lefty
|
|
|
Post by breeze785 on Feb 17, 2013 15:46:18 GMT -5
No pressure at all. How do I check the reservoir? The pads were moving freely when I put the front wheel back on
|
|
|
Post by edfr on Feb 17, 2013 15:57:59 GMT -5
There should be a VIEW window on the reservior so you should see the brake fluid in there. The fluid level should be at least HALF of the view window. I you see no fluid then it leaked out. Lefty
|
|
|
Post by breeze785 on Feb 17, 2013 17:03:05 GMT -5
Is it right next to the cluster and lever for the front break? That's where I've seen it. There's a little box but no view window
|
|
|
Post by breeze785 on Feb 17, 2013 21:34:38 GMT -5
I got some brake fluid and I bled it out. Now it gets locked shut and won't open until I drain the line again
|
|
|
Post by edfr on Feb 17, 2013 21:53:51 GMT -5
Here is how to bleed them to get the air out: Lefty
|
|