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Post by curtgy650taotao on Oct 20, 2012 8:02:41 GMT -5
I am working on a 2011 taotao 50, bone stock. It wouldn't start. I got it to start but now it runs for about 30 seconds and then cuts out. Then it won't start again right away. If i let it sit for about a minute then crank it it fires up and again runs for like 30 seconds and cuts off. I've messed with the air fuel mix screw on the carb and that doesn't help. WHAT DO I DO??? PLEASE HELP
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Post by flu on Oct 20, 2012 9:44:39 GMT -5
When is the last time you did a valve adjustment? Cleaned the carb?
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Post by 50cc on Oct 20, 2012 13:51:58 GMT -5
Maybe it's running lean, overheats and seizes? The intake may have a small crack that gets bigger with engine heating up letting more air in. My engine was like that just before it died for the first time (cooked piston). Also, did you try it with the stock CDI? And yeah, cleaning the carb is always a good thing to do as flu mentioned above.
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Post by sickopsycho on Oct 20, 2012 14:35:53 GMT -5
I am working on a 2011 taotao 50, bone stock. It wouldn't start. I got it to start but now it runs for about 30 seconds and then cuts out. Then it won't start again right away. If i let it sit for about a minute then crank it it fires up and again runs for like 30 seconds and cuts off. I've messed with the air fuel mix screw on the carb and that doesn't help. WHAT DO I DO??? PLEASE HELP When it won't start check for spark. Get a spare plug, pull the plug wire off your plug and put it on the spare. Ground the spare to the engine block and hi the start switch. Look closely for a spark. If you have spark then you know its a fuel/air issue and you've narrowed the problem to that. Another thing you can try is a can of starter fluid. Spray directly into carb or a heavy spray into air box. If it starts for a min and shuts off you're not getting fuel. Check the vacuum line to the petcock... if its cracked and old its probably leaking air and might not be opening the petcock. These are just simple things to check before you get into carb cleaning, valve adjusting, etc. Remember... K.I.S.S.... keep it simple, stupid. If you try all the above and still no luck then sell your bike on craigslist and tell the buyer all it needs is some muffler bearings and it will run like new. Then buy yourself a Keeway. =) |
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Post by curtgy650taotao on Oct 22, 2012 9:31:45 GMT -5
I put a different carb on it and it still does the same thing. It starts every time then it cuts out after running for about 30 seconds. The vacuum line seems to be fine. It slowly putts out. I AM PERPLEXED?  |
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Post by 50cc on Oct 22, 2012 9:35:12 GMT -5
I put a different carb on it and it still does the same thing. It starts every time then it cuts out after running for about 30 seconds. The vacuum line seems to be fine. But is the fuel valve itself ok? Maybe it returns fuel through the vacuum line (it shouldn't) and chokes the engine or just stops giving gas after a while and it dies. Also, didn't you put a bit too much of engine oil inside last time you changed? This would foam the oil inside after a while, increase pressure in the engine and possibly seize it and/or break rubber seals causing oil leaks and loss of pressure. Do you have oil leaks? How's your cylinder compression? Is your cylinder head breather (the hose) blocked? It shouldn't be. Also, isn't your carb float too low? Maybe on "both carbs"?  |
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Post by millsc on Oct 22, 2012 9:44:42 GMT -5
check your petcock unplug the hose from the carb and suck on the line going to the intake manifold gas should come out the gas line if not the petcock is bad if it dribbles out its clogged if your getting good flow adjust the valves change the oil and spark plug clean the carb and i bet it runs fine
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Post by Shandu on Oct 23, 2012 22:00:53 GMT -5
I put a different carb on it and it still does the same thing. It starts every time then it cuts out after running for about 30 seconds. The vacuum line seems to be fine. It slowly putts out. I AM PERPLEXED? Like someone else asked, when was the last time the valves were adjusted? You describe exactly my problems before I gave up on it for the winter. Check your valves please. |
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Post by dogrunner on Nov 1, 2012 22:40:25 GMT -5
I agree, check valves first! Then check compression.
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Post by jlee on Nov 2, 2012 2:28:52 GMT -5
Check petcock first (easier and more likely the culprit), then valves.
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Post by jsuggs on Nov 2, 2012 4:27:35 GMT -5
To diagnose a problem you have to ask yourself not only what happened but for a issue like this why did it happen. Has proper maint been done? How many miles are on the scooter? Has the sparkplug been changed? Air filter? Fuel filter?
Check the fuel valve, as described above, then reconnect the vacume hose and remove the end from the fuel valve. Put your tounge on it(or go buy a vacume gauge) and crank the engine. You should feel the vacume.
Have you changed the fuel filter? When they clog a little fuel will still get threw, which will fill up the carb, then when it starts there is not enough fuel flow to keep it running.
The next thing I would do is loosen the exhaust at the head. If the exhaust is clogged the engine turns into a air compressor so you loose vacume, which shuts off the fuel. engine dies. You really cant tell by just putting your hand near the exhaust outlet.
If that is all good then I would use a in line spark tester.
The valves may need to be adjusted, but I doubt that is why it is stalling. The lets say for the sake of argument "lack of adjustment" is a constant factor. Which means that if it starts, it will stay running if this is the only issue. As is a vacume leak. IF it started and died before reaching idle speed it would be a posability, but that would be in a few seconds not 30.
Good luck
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Post by Shandu on Nov 2, 2012 12:21:52 GMT -5
Mine sometimes would start immediately, and if you didn't give it constant gas, it would die. If you went to a stop light/sign, it would die and be impossible to start until it warmed up. Adjusting the valves fixed that for me.
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Post by jlee on Nov 2, 2012 15:26:07 GMT -5
I agree - poor valve adjustment can cause all kinds of seemingly unrelated symptoms in a single cylinder engine.
But check the more obvious ones first, such as the petcock and fuel filter.
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Post by prodigit on Nov 2, 2012 23:50:34 GMT -5
Tao actually uses quite good spark plugs. I see no reason to change them, until they break down (which is probably going to be after 2000 supposedly 'km's' on the chinometer).
Tao uses quite good parts; and they have the ATM50-A1 very well tuned as well (difficult to make it go any better or faster)!
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Post by millsc on Nov 3, 2012 8:09:43 GMT -5
my tao had pretty crappy parts and screws ive changed almost every piece, screw, lines and rims and tires its not even really a tao anymore
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Post by prodigit on Nov 4, 2012 17:16:12 GMT -5
You're right, in that there's a lot of superficial rust on the tao.
Mainly chromed parts are rusting. However many screws have a self locking system on them, so they won't need locktite.
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Post by rcq1990 on Nov 6, 2012 14:46:17 GMT -5
I had a similar problem on my 2012 Tao Tao atm 50, turned out it was a a very simple very cheap fuel line that had somehow ruptured. Took me all of 5 minutes to fix and it ran like a dream again...after a week of cussing and screaming at my scoot for not running right lol
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Post by jlee on Nov 6, 2012 14:54:32 GMT -5
Could be that you have a crappy vacuum line between carb and petcock. When the engine starts, it may be collapsing as the engine develops vacuum and shutting off the fuel supply.
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Post by prodigit on Nov 6, 2012 20:24:47 GMT -5
Though the lines may be very thin, they've lasted me so far!
(not very long though).
It's a US law that all scoots imported must have fuel lines that can stand the ethanol levels in fuel.
So Chinese companies that wanted to import their scoots had to evolve, and equip the bike with better fuel lines.
If the fuel line broke because of the Ethanol, that has changed already.
If it breaks because of any other reason, that may still be the case...
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