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Post by carasdad on Oct 7, 2012 8:16:47 GMT -5
they cylindrical thing...is your flasher relay...  |
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Post by moorso on Oct 7, 2012 12:03:28 GMT -5
Thought it might be. Off to radio shack for a 3 way toggle switch. Have relay, have wire, have tested hi and lo beams directly off battery and they both work. So now I can bypass those junk switches and make something worthy !!
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Post by moorso on Oct 7, 2012 15:17:29 GMT -5
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Post by meitianman on Oct 7, 2012 18:47:08 GMT -5
the round thing im pretty sure is the turn signal flasher.
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Post by moorso on Oct 8, 2012 5:53:37 GMT -5
the round thing im pretty sure is the turn signal flasher. Yeah, that was my first guess. Well, got the relay in place and now need to find a good place to 1) feed power to it which will eventually feed to toggle switch and the hi and lo beam lights and 2) find a trigger wire which will activate or shutoff the relay depending upon whether the starter is engaged or not. I think I will have to go all the way back to the starter or somewhere between the starter relay and the starter for this trigger wire. Basically when the starter is engaged it activates the coil in the relay and momentarily turns off the headlight while the starter is cranking. Less demand on the battery. I can see I am going to end up simply rewiring certain portions of the scooter ....the handlebar light switch and the dimmer switch will be basically useless . |
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Post by moorso on Oct 9, 2012 9:23:04 GMT -5
Something seems wierd here with this generic electrical diagram. For one thing, it does show an emergency kill switch, of which I have no such thing on this scooter. The other thing it seems to be indicating is that one of the brakes has to be applied in order to startup. This is not the case at all. Unless this safety feature was disabled, but I just dont see it. It also shows what looks like an electronic speed limiiter? Maybe this is just a generic diagram for chinese scooter and does not apply to this year of the meitian, I dunno.
I did get the relay that turns off the headlight working off the starter relay on the starter side of it. So the headlight turns off when the starter button is engaged. Now I wish I could find a good place to tie in the main power to the headlight that would be switchable with the ignition key. Havent found a place to do it without backfeeding through my new relay yet. Since the tailight comes on when key is on, maybe I can tie into that circuit and have both of those then go out when the starter is engaged.
Something tells me my wiring diagram does not exactly match the scooter. I looked at a diagram in the owners manual but it said meitian 125cc I think up at the top of the diagram. Maybe doesnt apply for this 50cc ?
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Post by moorso on Oct 10, 2012 6:12:03 GMT -5
Its all clear as mud to me now. Having virtually no experience with scooters in the past, I find out now what that gap in the right handlebar was for. The kill switch is missing and I didnt realize that was where it would have been mounted. Someone removed it for some reason....probably didnt work or maybe it worked all the time....lol. So anyway, there is no kill switch and I would probably be remiss to sell this thing without having one on the scooter....so I will need to add this I guess.....the cost mounts.  Now to figure out how this thing would have been wired into the system...I assume it just grounded the whole bike out, but dont know for sure. Anyone have a used kill switch.... ;D |
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Post by moorso on Oct 11, 2012 15:09:27 GMT -5
Got a replacement carb today from Mainely Scooters. Also ordered some 3/16" fuel line/vent line. As it turns out, the vac line I took off the rubber air intake hose I put between the air filter and the carb. Looked closer last night and that line is the crankshaft breather hose...so I removed that and extended it all the way to the back of the scooter instead and just put a plug in the rubber air intake nipple. No need to be send blow by gases back into the front end of that nice new carb. Getting close to the end of the electrical issues. I need to go all through the connections and silicone all of them. Also need to silicone all the mechanical screw connections on the body parts once I get to that point. Figuring out how to repair the ABS plastic in an economical way. Hopefully have this beast finished up in another month or so if I get some time here and there to work on it, and hopefully dont break anything more in the process. Man I'll tellya, anything rubber on these chinese scoots you might as well just remove and replace with the rubberized 3M stretch tape....much better product. I found a couple of electrical connections that were just twisted wire with electrical tape over them. Hard to believe it would come from a factory that way....maybe a previous owner, but dont understand that either. All my own wire to wire connections are soldered and heat shrunk, and most all others as well. That cincy fuse off the battery will get replaced with a reliable blade fuse and holder. Its as if the the Chinese do about 80% of the thing right then gave up on the rest of it.  |
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Post by moorso on Oct 12, 2012 6:08:22 GMT -5
Okay, update...hooorah. Mounted the carb...I mean put the carb in place last night...got it all hooked up , the fuel enricher cable, a new gas line, vent line, throttle cable....all ready to go. Just need to some medium test gas in it. Need to inspect the inside of gas tank first though. Electrically, I now have the headlight working off the keyed ignition, completley seperate from the original system wiring and have it setup so the light goes off when the starter button is pushed. I swear theres more cranking power there but could be my imagination. Also have the high beam indicator light working off the hi beam circuit now after a rewiring. Signals work, back light works....the only issues now is the brake lights (a biggy!) and the instrument panel lights....which coudl be just a bulb. The horn works, the blinker indicator lights work and the fuel level gauge works. Getting close. update: link to electrical issues: scootdawg.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=discussion&action=display&thread=55468Maybe we have startup this weekend. I notice the a/f screw on the new carb is set at about 1-1/4 turns out...dont know if this is intentional or not. Checked the spark on the new iridium plug and thats all good. Put some dielectric grease on the plug threads and some boot grease inside the rubber boot. Went around the engine area and retaped any electrical or rubber boots that had split, broken or disappeared. I wonder if anyone here might have a picture of what the kill switch arrangement looks like on this shanghai meitian? Meitianman? So I ask you, if this scooter was bought for 200 and say I get it all back in good working conditions looking fairly good with all the poor chinese parts replaced, whats it worth next spring without the condom on the right handlebar? |
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Post by moorso on Oct 19, 2012 6:58:16 GMT -5
Progress....getting there. Last night rewired the headlights and tailight directly to the yellow wire coming off the rectifier/regulator for a/c versus d/c the way I had it. After cranking the starter I had flickering lights front and back.....which was good. I now have - operating horn, turn signals front and back, brake light (front brake), running lights up front (headlight hi and low beams) and tailight. I guess the safety features missing are the kill switch and the requirement that the front brake be engaged when starting up....that one would be simple to add in series with the starter relay. Adding a kill switch involves a lot more I think.
So....should be all set to attempt a fire and launch up tomorrow. Got new carb on, new plug in, removed rubber intake tube, removed crankcase breather from air intake and routed a line to the back end of the scooter....might just leave that as clear line and put a plug on the end with zip tie for future draining when needed. Just like my other and bigger bike.
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Post by moorso on Oct 19, 2012 16:41:33 GMT -5
All I can say is wow. Decided to kick her over this afternoon. Put some gas in, primed the vacuum and filled the carb, hit the start toggle switch and in 5 seconds it was purring ....real smooth and steady. Nice carb Mainely Scoot. After a minute or so could hear the auto-enricher shutting off startup fuel flow but hardly a blip on the idle. Adjusted the a/f a bit to end up at 1.75 turns out (started at 2.5) and it just ran great. Got the rear tire off the ground and give it some throttle and it was all good. Cant really run it yet because too many wires and unsecured batteries. All the electrical is now good, engine running good, oil changed....wondering whether I should even bother to check the valves at this point.
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Post by moorso on Nov 4, 2012 6:41:03 GMT -5
Wow on the carb and engine maybe but man what a piece of crap the body is. Tabs broken, pieces cracked or split, ends broken off....it goes on and on. Stripped threads, missing clips for screws....conclusion? This scooter is going to become a working mans scooter when I'm done with it. It will run great, sound great and as of yesterday it hit 46 on a flat so for a 49 cc chinese scooter it will go like hell. But unless I want to replace all the body parts, which I dont, or unless I want to try to rebuild missing and broken pieces, which I dont, this babys going to be held together with zip ties, duck tape and velcro . And that aint necessarily a bad thing so long as you're not trying to win a beauty contest. So far I have: changed engine oil changed transmission oil gone to iridium plug replaced the carb replaced the fuel lines replaced vacuum line removed air intake tube to filter removed crankshaft vent from intake and will add filter at end adjusted a/f with new carb, adjusted idle rewired electrical for lights and startup added new fuel filter replaced carb clamps greased brake and throttle cables where I could oiled the bendix tested the brakes checked tire air pressure and bought zip ties, duct tape and velcro  I will be replacing these cheap cheap mirrors because I cant even see behind. Recommendations for some nice wide ones? And I will be doing some touchup painting then call this one a wrap. Time for a new project. I'll put this one up on craigs list probably for $500 for a fine running machine But I'll tellya, electrical issues will be nil or very few in the future on this because I know how the connections were made, which is for soldered and shrink wrapped, not those cheap mechanical connectors. Not a good time to try selling, but I got time and if it doesnt sell I'll just turn it into my house mule. I still should do a few things on it. Remove the rear wheel so I know nuts will come off in the future easier...check the brake pads, and do the same for the front wheel. I might try putting the center kickstand back on if I have all the parts...it was removed when I got the scoot and I personally dont care for the center stand. I also could try putting the kick start back on, but that means getting a new variator cover because someone over kicked the starter on this one and busted a nice hole in the cover. May just leave the kick starter off and not replace the cover. The goal of this whole thing has been to de-chinese this scooter and make it a dependable source of travel for someone in the future. I think it will be because most of the entire fuel system and electrical system is rebuilt...now if the zip ties and duct tape hold.  Actually given the fact that abs plastic is brittle and hard fasteners like screws and bolts have no give at all, these zip ties are probably the best answer...lol. Just dont stare at the scooter close up. |
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Now to figure out how this thing would have been wired into the system...I assume it just grounded the whole bike out, but dont know for sure.
Actually given the fact that abs plastic is brittle and hard fasteners like screws and bolts have no give at all, these zip ties are probably the best answer...lol. Just dont stare at the scooter close up.