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Post by Scooter Elements on Aug 8, 2012 9:21:08 GMT -5
Here are some images of the plug (NGK C7HSA @ 0.023" gap) after my ride last night:    I have been trying to get my images to show, but they will not... Are there any image requirements? no requirements. Make sure you use the IMG Code for forums. not sure what site you are using but i use tinypic.com no sign up very easy to use |
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Post by Origjoker on Aug 8, 2012 9:34:59 GMT -5
Hmm...From the pics it looks to be a bit lean but definitely ok. Maybe it is lean though and overheating.
Blinker issue is probably just a bad flasher module, They are cheap and its probably just dangling somewhere under the front fairings so it takes a lot of abuse.
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Post by daves06r4i on Aug 8, 2012 20:25:51 GMT -5
Todays update... I set the idle mixture. I was able to turn the screw clockwise about 2 turns before the rpms began to drop off... So I backed it off a quarter turn and left it at that. Then I set the idle to where the rear tire just begins to grab/rotate while on the center stand. I took it for a spin... Still the same issue.
My new parts are due in by this Saturday... Then we'll see if its the plug, coil, or CDI.
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Post by Origjoker on Aug 8, 2012 21:22:07 GMT -5
You want the idle a bit below where the tire spins, If it is that high it will wear out your clutch super fast.
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Post by daves06r4i on Aug 9, 2012 6:03:26 GMT -5
It's where the tire will move a half an inch or so every couple seconds. Should it be just a tad under that point?
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Post by orphansoul on Aug 9, 2012 10:49:33 GMT -5
You want to set it just a hair below where it sounds like you have it. So that the tire doesn't move at all. Be sure to wait for the engine to warm up first though before adjusting your idle speed.
You should check your carb diaphragm, but if you are hitting 61 gps confirmed...thats probably not the issue. Normally with that you get stuck around 20-40mph on a flat.
You might try replacing your petcock. Sometimes they don't open up all the way at WOT for different reasons and cause issues. If you want to test it first, just run your fuel line straight from the tank to the carb, and take it out for a spin. If the problem persist its not the petcock, if it goes away then you just need a new one. This *Is Not* a permanent solution, just a way to test. I wouldn't leave it without the petcock on sitting for too long, it will flood the carb eventually.
If none of those turn anything up, it could just be a needle or main jet issue. I don't think its electrical because electrical issues normally rear their head immediately, not just after prolonged runs and at much lower speeds. If you have the right amount of oil in, it shouldn't really be over heating either.
Your plug looks a nice tan on the top, which makes me think your WOT mixture is fine. the rest of it is awfully dark though. you may try putting a new plug in, now that you have adjusted your idle mixture and see what it does. It may just be black from being rich at the previous idle. If it comes back on the new one, your needle or float may just need a minor adjustment.
Of course, it could also mean you have a rich main jet, and are starving for fuel at WOT, which is why the color is a lighter tan at top...which would go back to the petcock. I would test that first....then turn your attention to the jetting if need be.
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Post by daves06r4i on Aug 9, 2012 20:37:33 GMT -5
Well... I bypassed the petcock and it didn't change a thing. I'm going to pull the carb off again tomorrow night... Hopefully I can get the screws out for the diaphragm without stripping them.
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Post by orphansoul on Aug 9, 2012 20:41:46 GMT -5
Have you checked your float?
If it isn't adjusted right, sometimes that causes the carb to starve out over time, then you have to wait for it to refill.
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Post by daves06r4i on Aug 9, 2012 20:51:08 GMT -5
I haven't checked the float level... I'm going to have to search on here to see how to do that while I have the carb off tomorrow night.
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Post by orphansoul on Aug 9, 2012 20:59:05 GMT -5
Sounds like a plan.
Hopefully we can all get this sorted out.
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Post by daves06r4i on Aug 11, 2012 17:02:49 GMT -5
I was comparing the stock and NCY intake manifolds... I noticed that the NCY was about 3/16" thicker from the head end flange to the mounting nut surface. Upon closer inspection I noticed that there was a plastic spacer (with no appearant sealant on the head side). Do I use the spacer with the NCY manifold??? I wouldn't think so, but the stock manifold didn't rest on the head, so I didn't know if the temp would be too high for the o-ring seal or not. Edit: there is a gasket between the head and the spacer... The spacer came off really easy though... Which makes me question the seal that it was making. Attachments:
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Post by greywolf187 on Aug 11, 2012 17:24:04 GMT -5
plug looks good to me. have you changed out the CDI box and Coil yet. I hate to just toss parts at something hoping that they stick. but it could be that the CDI is overheating on your rides. if I've read the post right. I'm thinking that as your riding Your CDI is heating up and causing a break down of the parts inside. and then running badly the last few mile's home. just my guess.
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Post by daves06r4i on Aug 11, 2012 17:45:58 GMT -5
plug looks good to me. have you changed out the CDI box and Coil yet. I hate to just toss parts at something hoping that they stick. but it could be that the CDI is overheating on your rides. if I've read the post right. I'm thinking that as your riding Your CDI is heating up and causing a break down of the parts inside. and then running badly the last few mile's home. just my guess. I actually got my new CDI, coil, plug, and manifold today. The first thing that i did was swap out the CDI and took it for a ride. I was able to go for about 5 miles (topping out at 64 mph downhill) without a problem. I then swapped the old CDI back in... Took it for a spin and it started to crap out after a few miles of running it hard. I then put the new CDI back in... Went for a spin and all was good. I dont want to count on that being the problem, but the shoe sure seems to fit. I swapped the coil and put in the new plug, but haven't taken it out yet. In the meantime I'm going through the carb and waiting for a response on the stock vs NCY intake manifold before I reassemble. |
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Post by daves06r4i on Aug 11, 2012 17:49:18 GMT -5
Here is an image if my carb. Are the carbs on these mostly Mikuni? I confirmed that the tall jet on the left is 115 , but I can't make out the one to the right... It has xx2.5??? The diaphragm looked good as well. Attachments:
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Post by daves06r4i on Aug 11, 2012 20:20:06 GMT -5
Is there some trick that I don't know about on getting the carb/NCY intake manifold combination bolted onto the engine? I can get one or the other in the hole, but not both...
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Post by daves06r4i on Aug 11, 2012 20:51:38 GMT -5
Ok... After some man handling I finally got them in without breaking anything. Only its not going to work because there is no room for the enrichment valve doohicky!!! I think the stock manifold is going to be going back on. The NCY manifold is a sharp looking piece, but it just doesn't compare to the fitment/ease of use as the factory manifold. In the attached image you can see how the blue boot has to get tightened well past what it should... The lip is all wavy and there are white stress marks from stretching to meet the diameter of the carb. I had to just walk away before I flipped the crap out and started beating the snot out of the scooter.... Attachments:
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Post by greywolf187 on Aug 11, 2012 21:42:32 GMT -5
make sure to run the NEW CDI and NEW Coil both at same time. for some reason I don't know, you should not run a mixed set on the Coil and CDI. by that I mean that you need to run both stock or both upgraded. I don't think you need to run the spacer on the NCY Manifold. it might give you what you need to get it to fit better.
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Post by daves06r4i on Aug 11, 2012 22:13:57 GMT -5
I did end up installing the manifold without the spacer. I think that the carb would hit the cross member if it was left on.
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Post by orphansoul on Aug 12, 2012 12:30:59 GMT -5
The NCY intake should have an O-ring on the bottom of it. It doesn't need the spacer. Most aftermarket intakes do not use the spacer either.
Sounds like you got the problem, so thats good.
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Post by daves06r4i on Aug 13, 2012 13:42:03 GMT -5
Ok... Today I decided to dig back into it. In the attached image you can see that that NCY intake is taller than stock with the spacer. I think this is why it won't install correctly... Causing problems with the throttle cable and "choke" fitment. I can't get either to fit all actually - they both hit the crossmember. I have to be missing something here... Otherwise a bunch of people on this forum wouldn't have them installed. Correct?  Attachments:
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Post by daves06r4i on Aug 13, 2012 14:04:21 GMT -5
Just stumbled across something... The spacer has a ground down area to clear the head. I looked at the NCY intake and saw where the edge of the manifold was getting mushroomed from hurting the head. So I mocked it up the NCY intake and spacer combination, but I'm iffy on whether or not the nuts thread on far enough. There is about a half thread that isn't catching. Or do I grind the NCY manifold to clear?
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Post by daves06r4i on Aug 13, 2012 14:07:23 GMT -5
I forgot to attach the image... Attachments:
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Post by daves06r4i on Aug 13, 2012 14:17:57 GMT -5
Ok... It's not going to work with the spacer/NCY combination. Since I don't have anything to lose... I'm going to go ahead and grind the NCY manifold until I just get enough clearance. Attachments:
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Post by ericrockstar on Aug 13, 2012 14:22:33 GMT -5
Many people complain about that same problem. Some cut off a piece if radiator hose to stretch it out or re-direct the way the carb sits.
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Post by daves06r4i on Aug 13, 2012 15:19:02 GMT -5
It's good to hear that I'm not alone on this. You would think there would be some mention of this in the item description.
I did grind the manifold, but it still wouldn't fit correctly, so i put the stock manifold on and got it going again. If it breaks again, then maybe I'll revisit the NCY intake manifold. For now I just want to ride....
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Post by geh3333 on Aug 13, 2012 18:51:57 GMT -5
just cut the intake manifold on an angle , cut the end that connects to the carb so that the carb sets beneath the cross member . thats why i like the all metal intake , the end that connects to the carb is like a sleeve in which you can take off and use a piece of radiator hose. this is probably the reason for your float not working right , because your carb is on an angle.
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